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Thread: Bruces Chopped 35

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperger72 View Post
    Good idea. Will look better.
    will send PM. Let me know if you don't see it

  2. #82
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    Got the body mods done on cab side. Will work through the week on the Radiator shroud side. Pretty time consuming but I like how its coming out. Had to build up glass on one side of hood almost 1/4" to get both sides to fit flush to the cab.
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  3. #83
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    So got the cowl and hood aligned and set gaps. Came out awesome. Only problem was I had a 3/8 " "pond" in the middle of the hood and was supper flimsy when you pushed on the glass in the middle of the hood. Huge void between the hood and the inner glass. I installed screws along the middle to push the outer skin up and leveled everything. Drilled holes over the area that was "sunken" and filled with expandable foam. Took two whole cans! Made the hood rock solid and eliminated all flex that would inevitably affect body and paint. I worked for a few years doing aftermarket Corvette and Semi truck parts and this is something that should be done during manufacturing! If you leave this hood as is and fill with Bondo you wont be happy in a few months! Will grind and skim coat entire hood tomorrow.
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  5. #84
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    A neat trick with the foam.

    Are there any other areas in the truck you suspect may require the same approach? I’m thinking of cab roof and doors...

    You’re building a very cool truck!

  6. #85
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    That is really cool trick. Got my bed on getting my hood and cowl on this weekend. I hope. Or start the doors.

  7. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    A neat trick with the foam.

    Are there any other areas in the truck you suspect may require the same approach? I’m thinking of cab roof and doors...

    You’re building a very cool truck!
    Thanks My cab was a little flimsy on top but I glassed the heck out of it when I chopped it so is pretty solid now. The doors I had some voids on the edges after trimming to fit and had to fill in the gaps.

  8. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnelson View Post
    So got the cowl and hood aligned and set gaps. Came out awesome. Only problem was I had a 3/8 " "pond" in the middle of the hood and was supper flimsy when you pushed on the glass in the middle of the hood. Huge void between the hood and the inner glass. I installed screws along the middle to push the outer skin up and leveled everything. Drilled holes over the area that was "sunken" and filled with expandable foam. Took two whole cans! Made the hood rock solid and eliminated all flex that would inevitably affect body and paint. I worked for a few years doing aftermarket Corvette and Semi truck parts and this is something that should be done during manufacturing! If you leave this hood as is and fill with Bondo you wont be happy in a few months! Will grind and skim coat entire hood tomorrow.
    A word of caution if anyone is thinking about doing the same thing. You have to be careful and keep a straight edge down the hood to keep an eye on it. If you go to much you will end up with a big ol bubble in the hood! I actually clamped a long level down the middle.

  9. #88
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    Lost some days. Had to go out of town and earn my paycheck I got all the glass work done on the cowl mods. Got the bodywork and filler done from cowl to windshield. I cut the radiator cowl down to follow the contour of the grill and filled in the half moon hole that is there for what? Maybe something for the 33 but just a hole for the truck. Built a new lip following the whole cowl so wont look like I just chopped it up and bolted back on. After re installing I think tomorrow I will modify the big gaping hole for the control arm. Only needs to be about 1/4 that size and think I will round it off to match contours on rest of truck.

    Hoping to get everything cab forward ready to prime and block this weekend and get cab trimmed to start installing bed.

    I'm just winging this and following instinct. Any opinions positive or negative appreciated! It looks pretty close to my original rendition (see below) Also would like opinions on my thoughts for the rear exhaust and tail lights I'm playing with. Again..see below.

    35 truck rear rendition.jpgchoped and molded front.jpg9-25-2019 1.jpg9-25-2019 2.jpg9-25-2019 3.jpg9-25-2019 4.jpg

  10. #89
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    I think the hood issue has been resolved; my kit arrived a month ago and I was impressed the cored hood, haven't tried to fit it yet but it blocked out perfect

  11. #90
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Looks good It’s truly one of a kind nice mods!
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  12. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIRGIN MIKE View Post
    I think the hood issue has been resolved; my kit arrived a month ago and I was impressed the cored hood, haven't tried to fit it yet but it blocked out perfect
    Great to hear. Maybe mine was a one off fluke.

  13. #92
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    Sweet. I love it

  14. #93
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    I like the LEDs location just not a fan of the exhaust. I would do either dumps or side exhaust though or partly though the body. It would clean up the rearend.

  15. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnelson View Post
    I love what you are doing. I've been wondering if the notch in the cowl for the lower control arm needs to be as large as it is. Could it be blended or curved a bit? Always looked a bit odd to me. I figured with your fiberglass skills you might have considered making the cut-out less angular or smaller but I don't know how much movement or travel the LCA has.

    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  16. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    I love what you are doing. I've been wondering if the notch in the cowl for the lower control arm needs to be as large as it is. Could it be blended or curved a bit? Always looked a bit odd to me. I figured with your fiberglass skills you might have considered making the cut-out less angular or smaller but I don't know how much movement or travel the LCA has.

    -Steve
    Yep. I'm taking them back off tonight and doing just that!

  17. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLJackrabbit View Post
    I like the LEDs location just not a fan of the exhaust. I would do either dumps or side exhaust though or partly though the body. It would clean up the rearend.
    I think your right. I also want to make the bed one piece and easy to get on and off so exhaust through the roll pan would be an issue. I'll look at some other options. Thanks!

  18. #97
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    Got the big gaping control arm hole closed up. looks much better IMO. Still has same travel.

    9-26-2019 1.jpg

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  20. #98
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    Heres a little clearer picture with before & after.

    9-25-2019 4.jpg
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  21. #99
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    Filling it in makes a big difference. I never understood why the some holes were way oversized. It looks good. Keep it up. How much is the ground clearance on the front?

  22. #100
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    Open headers!!! just run and dump under bed

  23. #101
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    Got all the front hood, cowl, cab filled and blocked. Will pull everything tomorrow and prime and trim cab for bed. Hopefully start putting bed on tomorrow or Sunday.
    So glad to be done with the glass work! Theres a reason I quit doing body & paint and joined the military back in 1980!

    9-27-2019 2.jpg

  24. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLJackrabbit View Post
    Filling it in makes a big difference. I never understood why the some holes were way oversized. It looks good. Keep it up. How much is the ground clearance on the front?
    3 3/4 right now. Hopefully can raise it up a bit when I get the suspension set up.

  25. #103
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    What are you cutting off of the cab for the bed?

  26. #104
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    looks good. My front end with the side panels is all screwed up? I need to do something with the lower radiator hose. Pushing my grill way out at the bottom

  27. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperger72 View Post
    What are you cutting off of the cab for the bed?
    That rear lip on back off cab that extends on to the bed frame. Mine is about 2". Need to cut back so about 1/2" from cab so the bed will move forward enough. I think.....Loks like thats what others have done.

  28. #106
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    Gotcha

  29. #107
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    Started installing bed. Looks like Its gona be a bunch of work. I'm going to weld the bed to make it one piece and make it simple to lift off. Was worried about the sides being epoxied together but was able to spot weld and cool of between welds with compressed air. Will get it clamped together and lay everything out this week and build a jig to hold everything in place.
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  30. #108
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    great idea

  31. #109
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    Plan B on the bed. After clamping everything up and crawling around underneath it looked like it would be a bit tight trying to get it off in one piece. Going to try and make the bed + front + back one piece but sides will remove independent. My biggest thing was I did not want screws or bolts going through the side panels. I spot welded some 3/4" SS angle to the bed and drilled holes to screw to front panel. Welded front panel to bed bottom. Got that all put together and trying to figure out what I want to do with the rear pan and tailgate. It makes no sense to me the way they have it so figure I have some more glass work in my future I'll tack some thin SS nuts on the front side of bed panel and shouldn't be to noticeable. Or maybe tack some flat bar and drill and tap. Planing on fabricating some brackets for the bottom of the bed sides to strengthen them up a little. I'll glass some studs to the inside of the sides and then drill and tap frame for brackets.

    Starting to look like a truck and I'm getting excited!

    10-1-2019 1.jpg10-1-2019 4.jpg10-1-2019 5.jpg10-1-2019 6.jpg

  32. #110
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    Started working on the rear roll pan and tailgate. One thing that bugged me was the roll pan being inset of the quarter panels which leaves a lip between the two. On a normal auto these panels would be flush with a seam in between them. I clamped everything together and taped the line where they met. Cut the roll pan down and then built lip on back side so after bolting together they will be flush. (with a little grinding and filling). After I get the seams set and gaps right I will countersink studs on the quarter panels to bolt the roll pan to them. Quite a bit of work but what the heck. One day at a time. I think I'm going to mount the tailgate as normal but with hidden latches so I don't have chains and so forth. After looking at it I think I like the standard look as opposed to molding everything together. After I get that all set I will cut down the roll pan to bed level and build a lip that goes over the bed. Also will build an upright pillar on both sides that fills in the gaps and gives a position for latch that is sturdy enough. Tomorrow is another day...
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  33. #111
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    Well I worked all day trying different things for the rear roll pan. I glassed on the extra lip but not enough meat on the quarters to glass in studs. Had to go withe riv nuts in the roll pan and button head screws on the quarters. Was able to hide behind the tailgate. Tomorrow I'm going to build some upright pillars on each side for the latches to lock into and build glass lips around those uprights to give it a finished look.
    \
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  34. #112
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    how is the bed coming along?

  35. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by sperger72 View Post
    how is the bed coming along?
    Not much progress. Had to get some chores done over the weekend. Hopefully have some updates this weekend.

  36. #114
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    I glassed the rear together. The bed does come off as one piece. Just raise truck up and bring to the rear.

    Zach

  37. #115
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Nice work!
    Look forward to seeing photos of your completed box.
    Cheers ��

  38. #116
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    With the weather so nice been getting some work done out in the pastures. Was in the shop watching Monday Night Football and decided to finalize the battery situation. I just cant see the sense in putting the battery under a bed that they want you to pop rivet to the frame. Regardless of how you mount the bed it would be seriously inconvenient trying to get to it. Been pondering this for a while

    I fabricated a mount from 3/4" aluminum angle and built a 1 1/2" stand off to get it above the angle in the back of the cab. That put the battery 1/2" back from the seat when pushed all the way back against the cab. Will probably copy the Hawaii truck mod in making the seat lift forward on hinges. That will make it accessible.
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  40. #117
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    I like this idea.

    I am going to use the FFR spot and run remote battery charging system.

  41. #118
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    Finally got around to finishing the bed mounting. I welded the bed flat panel and the portion against the cab together. Welded angle to the side panels to screw to the back panel. As I have it I can take off ether side by unscrewing 10 screws. No nuts on the back. All the nuts are rev nuts or SS nuts tacked to panel. Takes about 2 minutes to get the sides off. The rear roll pan I have finished so the panels will be flush but still have some work to do. I think I am going to cut and form a license plate cutout in the middle of the roll pan. Kind of like rendition below. I changed my mind and am going with the supplied tail lights instead of the LED strips but will build a different mount to clean up the wiring.
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  43. #119
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    Had some time today to start the license plate mod. Cut out roll pan and made some inserts out of insulation board and then glued them together to shape the bottom section. Little filler and prime and block and complete. Got the doors all blocked and ready for final prime/seal. Hope to complete both bed sides and rear roll pan over the weekend and be ready for paint!

    10-18-2019 1.jpg10-18-2019 2.jpg10-18-2019 3.jpg10-18-2019 4.jpg
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  44. #120
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Looks great !!!! Coming along real nice. Rob
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

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