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Thread: Electrified 1935 Truck - Rebecca

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    Electrified 1935 Truck - Rebecca

    Short story is I picked this up looking like this from a local shop that didn't have time to work on her.
    IMG_8567.jpg

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    Loaded her up and brought her back to my garage. Man that was alot of boxes...
    IMG_8600.jpg

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    Researched, researched and researched. Here she is for HalloweenIMG_9024.jpg of 2020:

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    Stripped her down and painted her with some KBS frame blue.
    IMG_9283.jpg

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    Added the 12V electrical, newer wheels, and some other stuff (out of order), so here is how she looks today. Next step will be adding all the high voltage stuff so I can go-cart her arround and work out all the issues I haven't even thought of yet.

    My youngest with her little one and me with my big one:

    IMG_0485.jpg

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    Dreamer j33ptj's Avatar
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    What is your driveline set up going to be?

    Robert

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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    At least one inquiring mind needs to know...are you going to use a GM E-Crate system or something pulled out of a vehicle. You’ve mentioned high voltage, so assuming this will be the first FFR electric vehicle I’ve ever read about.....

    Cheers

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    Dreamer j33ptj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    At least one inquiring mind needs to know...are you going to use a GM E-Crate system or something pulled out of a vehicle. You’ve mentioned high voltage, so assuming this will be the first FFR electric vehicle I’ve ever read about.....

    Cheers
    It has been done before:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpqvpqklyk0

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    So the plan is a UQM-160 motor/controller and the EV-TorqueBox direct drive transmission. Once I finalize placement (and angle, which I am researching now), I'll have to get the custom driveline to match up to my mustang rear end.

    https://www.uqm.com/English/products...e/default.aspx

    https://www.torquetrends.com/ev-torquebox

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    Created in the windows 3d builder, but this will be the first attempt for a bolt on electric motor/trans that goes from the stock LS motor and trans locations to the mounts for the electric motor.
    IMG_9846.jpg

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    I'm very excited to see this project develop! This is the idea I've been chewing over for my next project ('37 Woodie), assuming I ever finish my current '33 Hot Rod build...

    I searched the UQM site and didn't find a UQM-160 motor/controller? Is that something that is not a standard product for them?

    What are you planning to use for the batteries? I used to work in the industry but am not familiar with what is commercially available these days.

    Cheers! Keith HR #894

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    Quote Originally Posted by progmgr1 View Post
    I'm very excited to see this project develop! This is the idea I've been chewing over for my next project ('37 Woodie), assuming I ever finish my current '33 Hot Rod build...

    I searched the UQM site and didn't find a UQM-160 motor/controller? Is that something that is not a standard product for them?

    What are you planning to use for the batteries? I used to work in the industry but am not familiar with what is commercially available these days.

    Cheers! Keith HR #894
    Looks like UQM updated the part number from 160 to 135(HS), not sure why

    I picked up 8 of the 44V LG Chem batteries to get me by for now, but I plan on waiting till the end of the project to finalize the big batteries, since there seems to be new ones coming out everyday.

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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    That is all super cool!

    I definitely will be following your build as often as you post new things.

    Cheers 🍻
    Pat
    Once again with an 88 mm Turbo, Big Block Chevy powered, ‘35 Hot Rod Pickup

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    Please keep us updated. Really look forward to seeing this come together.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    So I've been stuck for a couple weeks trying to figure out how to put in the electic motor/trans. I really want it to be bolt in to the stock motor and trans mounts, so this is what I came up with: from concept, to my 3d printer, to actual part. It was significantly difficult to find a shop willing to take the risk of building this part, for obvious reasons.
    Rebecca Subframe version 1.0.JPG IMG_0067.jpg IMG_0032.jpg

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    And it was fun putting the sub-frame in.
    IMG_0037.jpg IMG_0038.jpg IMG_0061.jpg IMG_0062.jpg
    Last edited by Megatron451; 03-01-2021 at 06:03 PM.

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    Now I need to figure out how to mount the electric motor controller, and start to work on everything electric that will probably go into the bed - batteries, BMS, onboard charger, DC-DC converter, high voltage switching box, etc

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    unable to open attachments for some reason: message: "invalid attachment"

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    Last edited by Megatron451; 03-01-2021 at 10:58 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dlud View Post
    unable to open attachments for some reason: message: "invalid attachment"
    I think I fixed it.

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    Dreamer j33ptj's Avatar
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    Do you think that that plate has sufficient torsional strenght?

    It seems a bit thin to withstand the transfer of the torque from the motor to the frame...

    Robert

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    I agree with j33ptj. I would add rib stiffeners to the plate. Basically box it all in with maybe 2"x 1/4" plate material. I'm a structural engineer and detail plates like this. I see you have small angles on the underside that will definitely help but it does need more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by j33ptj View Post
    Do you think that that plate has sufficient torsional strenght?

    It seems a bit thin to withstand the transfer of the torque from the motor to the frame...

    Robert
    I 100% agree that this subframe will not withstand the 10K RPM that this motor can do almost instantly. The version 1.0 is more for go-carting around the neighborhood, troubleshooting out all the problems. Then when I win the lottery and can afford a bunch of Tesla batteries, I'll go back and beef up the subframe.

    IMG_0017.jpg

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    Dreamer j33ptj's Avatar
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    Can you move the mounting ring on the motor to the front? That will bring it closer to the engine mounts...

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    Quote Originally Posted by j33ptj View Post
    Can you move the mounting ring on the motor to the front? That will bring it closer to the engine mounts...
    Thank you for the question, I really appreciate it. So because there is a little bit of a driveline angle upwards from the rear end to the front, the more I push the motor to the front, the more "up" it has to go. While some people might like this, I would rather keep it a little lower and also leave some room for more batteries someday. Also, since this motor will have considerable torque, I'll need a high end driveline. I am currently looking at Denny's Nitrous ready driveshafts: https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c1_...iveshafts.html

    These shafts seem to have a max of 62 inches, which I am very close to with my current application, so pushing everything forward would exceed this value. Better safe than sorry. And again, I do plan on a beefier subframe when I add more batteries. This is just version 1.0.

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  32. #26
    Dreamer j33ptj's Avatar
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    Check out www.AVSMotorsports.com and www.revoltsystems.com . It looks like they work with electric motors fitted/fitting to classice cars.

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    This has me super excited - please post updates as you go! This has me eager to possibly make a dual motor little pickup!

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    Sorry for the slow updates, between working full time, father of 3 kids, and just being lazy, not alot has happened lately. I put in the manual e-brake, I chose that over an electric one just in case I suck at the electrical parts and at least have something manual to make it stop. I've been in daily contact with Denny from Denny's driveshafts about them building me one. Knowing that the electric motor has the capability of going from 0 to 10,000 rpms almost instantly, I figured I should get the best drive-line I could find. I am also currently trying to figure out how to make my 8 - 44 volt lithium batteries work with my Orion BMS (Battery Management System). The good news is that the Orion can do just about anything, the bad news is that the manual for it is hundreds of pages and I am trying to figure out what I need it to do.

    I need to keep reminding myself that this is a project with no time frame, just take my time and enjoy the ride. I am starting to get excited as I feel like I am getting close to go carting this thing, probably just a couple more months hopefully (knocking on wood).

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    Love it

    My partner and I have been looking at doing an EV build for a while (debating a Roadster, 818, and now the truck) to build a fun run around/cars and coffee/local autocross unit.

    If anything im curious in the reasoning for going with the UQM/torquebox rather than a unit like the Tesla take outs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harmacist View Post
    If anything Im curious in the reasoning for going with the UQM/torquebox rather than a unit like the Tesla take outs?
    While the Tesla motor setup is probably better for a lot of reasons, it would have taken some modifications to the frame to make it fit correctly, and that was one of the things I was trying to stay away from. My thought was always, if it doesn't workout, I'll just throw an LS motor in it and be done. The city of Surprise here in Arizona actually has some Ford F-150 trucks that have the UQM setup, so at the time it was the best option for what I am trying to do.

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    It's little league baseball season here in AZ, so I don't get alot of time with this project. But I have mounted the Controller. I will definately create a better mounting system once I get past the go-carting phase of this project. The rest of my free time has been spent on the millions of connections needed for the Orion BMS system, almost there...
    Controller mounted.jpg BMS Wiring.jpg

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  39. #32
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    Wow, I haven't updated this page in a while, sorry for that. Finally just got her registered, titled, and insured. Now time to put her on the road and make a list of everything that need "adjusted". Currently it feels like there are no springs in the back end, not sure if that is an adjustment, spring change, or just get used to it.

    Here a walk around quick and dirty video I took a couple days ago: https://youtu.be/kv92bh4AcsE

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