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Thread: Wheel Spinners

  1. #1
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    Wheel Spinners

    I am ready to mount my wheels and new tires. I have read and mulled over the best way to attach the spinners and caps.
    I guess all the methods will do, but either the work involved or some short comings kept me looking for something else.
    Well, here is what I came up with. I put the center in the wheel and secured it, with the spinner. On the back side, I wiped a bead of Permatex Ultra Grey. After letting it set up and removing the spinner the center is secure enough to not turn or fall loose. I will antiseize the spinners and retain them with the set screw. I am heeding the warning of the set screw messing up the threads on the cap and dropping a short length of weed eater line under the set screw. I saw this used on another item to protect the threads on an adjustment knob.
    When I need to remove the center, I feel good about tapping it out with a dead blow hammer and or cutting the bead of RTV out of the wheel center.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  2. #2
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    I followed the thoughts of Dave (Papa) But I just went to the local parts store and found the rubber "O" rings I needed and used a pool noodle.

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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Just a word of caution. My experience has been, antiseize is definitely not required. If fact, I found the antiseize tended to attract dirt and made the removal of the spinner more difficult. I found dry threads work fine. Install the spinner and snug up by hand until there is resistance against the lug nut cover. The set screw will keep it in place. The set screw has a nylon end so it won't bugger up the threads on the center. Again, don't over tighten. Never had a problem with this method driving lots of miles under all kinds of driving conditions.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

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    Thanks for the added advise. My problem with the O-ring and pool noodle is, if the spinner binds on the threads, the center cannot be held to stop it from turning.
    I did not check the the spinner set screw, just took the advise it would mar the threads on the center. I will check them out, thanks.
    Still, on the fence about some kind of lube on the threads.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Using some type of lube on the wheel spinners is a standard practice going back for decades to prevent them from galling and potentially seizing. Even specific products made just for that purpose. But for our purposes, a light coat of anti-seize seems to work fine. I highly recommend that you do so, after checking them dry to make sure the threads are OK. Agreed there are multiple ways to lock down the adapter so it doesn't spin in case the spinner gets stubborn and won't come off. After one experience, I'm in the camp of using a mechanical fix, e.g. a set screw through the wheel and into matching threads in the adapter. The problem is once the threads hang up, for whatever reason, and the adapter starts spinning, you're basically out of options. Typically something is damaged or destroyed and needs to be replaced after getting them apart. Most often the adapter itself. I prefer to remove that possibility.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-15-2019 at 10:53 AM.
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  6. #6
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Put me in the no anti-seize camp. Every car that comes to me gets the wheels removed so after removing about a hundred of 'em I can see a definite trend...the threads don't gall but the paste type anti-seize thickens, draws dust and tends to make spinner removal more difficult than ones where the threads have been left dry or have been installed with a dry graphite type lube such as my favorite--- CRC 3094

    https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-03094.html

    After pinning the hub to the wheel with setscrews on a few sets years ago I now go a different route and just shove a piece of pool noodle behind the hub to keep it pushed out, hit the threads with the dry lube and ditch the spinner setscrews. Never a problem...

    Jeff

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Put me in the no anti-seize camp. Every car that comes to me gets the wheels removed so after removing about a hundred of 'em I can see a definite trend...the threads don't gall but the paste type anti-seize thickens, draws dust and tends to make spinner removal more difficult than ones where the threads have been left dry or have been installed with a dry graphite type lube such as my favorite--- CRC 3094

    https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-03094.html

    After pinning the hub to the wheel with setscrews on a few sets years ago I now go a different route and just shove a piece of pool noodle behind the hub to keep it pushed out, hit the threads with the dry lube and ditch the spinner setscrews. Never a problem...

    Jeff
    Hey Jeff. Interesting. Gonna be hard to talk me out of my setscrews into the adapters. Agreed the anti-seize if used shouldn't be globbed on. Just a very light coat. But that graphite lube sounds interesting.
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    Do you use safety wire on the spinners to keep them from coming off?
    Steve

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    RR20AC's Avatar
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    I made my own o-ring behind the adapter. Just a bead of hot melt glue in the form of an o-ring does the trick. Holds tight and removes easily with a pick when needed. Doesn't really adhere to the aluminum but holds tight as an o-ring.
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Using some type of lube on the wheel spinners is a standard practice going back for decades to prevent them from galling and potentially seizing.
    GALLING is a form of wear causing adhesion between sliding surfaces. When a material galls, some of it is pulled with the contacting surface, especially if there is a large amount of force compressing the surfaces together.
    Spinners are a cosmetic touch. Serve NO purpose other than looks. They should never be hammered on. They should be spun on by hand and snugged up against the lug nut cover by hand. NOT hand tight. Snugged up. Set in place with a little force on the supplied set screw and the spinner will not loosen off, even after an entire season of tire roasting and hard braking.
    The use of safety wire is purely another cosmetic touch. Not required for function. IMO, the use of safety wire would be a royal pain.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  11. #11
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    Dave is correct, the set screws have a plastic tip, which should not damage the threads of the center hub. The set screws do like to rust. A shot of your favorite lube will help, IMO. I do have some spray dry graphite and also some dry lube for bike chains. It uses a liquid carrier for application, which dries and leaves bits of teflon as a lubricant. I just Ultra Grey'd the last 3 hubs in, left on right, right on left. Letting it set up before final installation. Thanks for all the input.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    GALLING is a form of wear causing adhesion between sliding surfaces. When a material galls, some of it is pulled with the contacting surface, especially if there is a large amount of force compressing the surfaces together.
    Spinners are a cosmetic touch. Serve NO purpose other than looks. They should never be hammered on. They should be spun on by hand and snugged up against the lug nut cover by hand. NOT hand tight. Snugged up. Set in place with a little force on the supplied set screw and the spinner will not loosen off, even after an entire season of tire roasting and hard braking.
    Not sure why you're quoting me and seeming to correct me. I never said they should be hammered on. Also don't need the lecture about galling. I know what it is.

    Agreed that unless you're doing pin drive (not the subject of this thread) they are totally cosmetic. But (a) We don't want them to fall off so getting them tight without being too tight is important. Many, including me, don't share your opinion of using the set screw as you describe. Many, as you've probably seen, remove them completely. (b) Then you need to make sure you can get them back off. The threads can gall or just jam for a variety of reasons even if you don't over-tighten them. Best to be proactive and hopefully not allow that to happen. Sharing ideas and suggestions is how this works.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-15-2019 at 05:02 PM.
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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Not sure why you're quoting me and seeming to correct me. I never said they should be hammered on. Also don't need the lecture about galling. I know what it is.

    Sharing ideas and suggestions is how this works.
    You were the one who stated the use of anti-seize on spinner has been a practice for decades because of galling. The only way you will gall the threads on your spinner is through the used of excessive force, like hammering then on too tight. We all know you know that. Not a lecture. A simple sharing of ideas and information. I like to keep it simple and share my experiences and not have to wonder if every post will be ridiculed.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    I like to keep it simple and share my experiences and not have to wonder if every post will be ridiculed.
    I wasn't ridiculing you. Sounds like we have the same goals. But I would appreciate if you didn't quote me, because nearly every time you do it's misrepresented or negative in some way and comes across as personal. Feel free to put me on your ignore list.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-15-2019 at 10:09 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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    I have found the majority of this thread useful despite the comments by a fellow Canadian, who obviously needs help and, if you read this forum regularly, going back years now.
    MKIV #8740, Canadian base kit, Picked up Dec. 2015, 98 Cobra 4.6 l DOHC, T45 transmission, old style IRS, Art Cuesta dieted harness/Ron Francis chassis harness, go-cart July 2018.

  18. #16
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    SPINNER - on automobile wheels historically refers to knock-off hubs or center caps. They may be the actual, or intended to simulate, the design used on antique vehicles or vintage sports cars.

    ANTI-SEIZE - A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals.

    WHEEL - A circular object that revolves on an axle and is fixed below a vehicle or other object to enable it to move easily over the ground.

    I'm just here to help!

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