SS383 Build - 33 Hot Rod #1134

[Blade]

I'm #1158. that would be great. San Jose is a bit far, but hey I love a good road trip....

[peterh226]

Been working on several areas that have been problem spots.
After visiting Factory Five and talking about the build I got a set of the Ram Horns and new front pipes. Much better fit overall. The bolt kits provided with the Sanderson’s don’t fit. This version of the Ram Horn uses 2 short bolts and 4 long bolts. However, all of the bolt kits for Ram Horns have 4 & 4. So, I got to order a special set of bolts. Just weird that the bolts are wrong for their own header. I’ll replace with socket head cap screws and it will be good. 5/16-18 x 2.25 and 3 will work.
06109B45-9177-4FF3-AE36-4DFCFF9F8E90.jpeg
Other projects was putting in the default bucket seats. I tried the Kirby (comfortable but not good for gettin in and out while touring). So next I tried PRP seats and they had promise, but were too narrow for my mature figure. So, while at factory five, we sat in the originals and ordered a set of those. I will be adding some kind of head rest as that is what got us on this path in the first place.
The other change is to try some quieter mufflers. The sound would be great on the track but a bit too much for a closed car on the street. I’m gonna set it up so I can easily switch back and forth if desired. I’m trying Dynomax Super Turbo #17731.

2115D01F-D806-4D87-9FB0-18492E097CFC.jpeg

Next was to get the front end setup corrected. Factory Five updated the rear lower mount so you and use the lower holes to get some ride height. So they sent me the update and i redid the suspension mounts and worked to get the alignment close.
A6AC561E-EA87-4A9F-8675-BF19BEE32605.jpeg F8047C9A-E074-44DC-BF9E-834CC0F65472.jpeg

Next, I have been working out how to make the Gen 2 top look good on the inside. This is ABS with some wood reinforcement and hidden fasteners to hold it in place. The dome light mount will be covered in black vinyl. I’ll cover all of the inside with Raptor before it’s done.
7216ED2F-DFB1-4761-A69F-AE74F42296C5.jpeg 9E8202D0-6C54-4B65-8FFB-2F4E1F96F829.jpeg

I found a spring that I can mount to the latch that will open the hood enough to grab it but not enough to distort the hood.
E99C8C92-BA9B-48B6-8730-07CE7A7AF745.jpeg

The gap between the cowl and the top has been another frustration. When I tighten the middle screw down, it twists the frame and pulls it away from the windshield. I squished some Tiger Hair between the frame and the cowl and we’ll see how that works.
BFEE20BE-77C5-42E8-9DB4-4410906A3958.jpeg

Lots more to do before paint this summer, but at least making progress.

[Tampa33Build]

Peter,

Interested in how much quieter the Dynomax Performance 1773 are vs. the FFR ones. I installed Hedman Hedders 17104 - Hedman Hot Tips Chrome Exhaust Tips and it helped some however still a little too loud for long trips.

[peterh226]

One of the little things. Used the trunk bracket and a bent piece of metal for the front clip. The 3D printed a receptacle to glue into the hood for the end of the rod.
F91A98A9-47DF-4E33-939E-9475837B26AD.jpeg 8EAADDEB-42EA-4046-9CAA-8D67B0874BFA.jpeg A656C965-7F74-4779-B71A-E33642B92F9C.jpeg

[peterh226]

Working on a lot of things to get closer to paint and reassembly. Facebook group is good for quick chats but not as a longer term record.
Got the body back off the chassis and on my home page stand..
969F5F4A-EE09-4673-B3BF-8FE982AE35C8.jpeg
Next, I’ve been addressing lots of little tasks (reroute brake line for running board support clearance for example). Been sanding and filling in holes as well as adding some metal plates for attaching covers.
In order to finish up the wiring, I needed to complete some of the upholstery on the center console so went that way for a bit.
E4FBD815-A5EF-43FE-9808-31F1776CEE1B.jpeg 5BD5EF56-1330-4A9D-A272-4E6DF8C999A5.jpeg BDCCBDE6-9D26-45BA-9C15-EC19C9B528A9.jpeg 8D0CB8B7-9AE1-4A58-9871-1DE6EB9E707B.jpeg
All of the wiring seems good now as well.
I switched from the mechanical speedo to electric sensor to the built in one on the side of the TREMEC.
Started it up for the first time in 8 or 9 months. I really like the Dynomax Turbo Mufflers. Have to see when I can go for a drive what they sound like, but up on jack stands in the garage, they seem like they will be a good way to cruise…
Now the bad news. My heater core failed. I had drained the water so I don’t know if some was locked in the core or if something else caused the failure. At least it happened now before I had finished the interior and painted body. So now i have another problem to solve.
F052AF14-FFC1-4569-AF4C-613AA7423738.jpeg

Never a dull moment in hot rod land!

[peterh226]

Peter,

Interested in how much quieter the Dynomax Performance 1773 are vs. the FFR ones. I installed Hedman Hedders 17104 - Hedman Hot Tips Chrome Exhaust Tips and it helped some however still a little too loud for long trips.

Just started it up with the Dynomax and they are gonna be MUCH better for a cruiser. Haven’t gone for a drive yet, but I’m very happy so far. I’m young at heart, but still have neighbors!

[peterh226]

One thing that is really cool with this project is that you get to learn about all of the subsystems as well. Been working on a all sorts of little things.
- switched to screw on electrical end for the magnum shooters for clearance and positive connections.
- got the a/c working and charged. Thanks FFR for the help!
- powder coated misc brackets (horn mounts, side panel/fender reinforcements.
- prepped and painted the insides of several panels with Rhino liner
- upholstered most of the interior panel and adapted to use hidden fasteners
C30DAD06-E1A0-46B0-9CD4-2C4037E4FD34.jpg
- designed, printed, and mounted the support for the front camera behind the grill
8A9C653E-F742-4915-9EDA-7C950C619364.jpeg 6DA3A7A7-E886-4208-B02A-1A2A84176712.jpeg FE7B812C-4756-4931-8C64-08027A24C3E2.jpeg

[e36m3]

Hi Peter,

What length shaft did you order for the Mighty Wiper?

Thanks,

Andy

[peterh226]

Hi Peter,

What length shaft did you order for the Mighty Wiper?

Thanks,

Andy

Hi Andy

Here's what is on the order sheet:

2 MWT158 1.5" taper shaft Mighty Wiper with short arm and blade
2 XLong5 5 foot longer wire
1 XSetCam set cam for opposite park position
I'm very happy how they worked out even though I don't expect to use much.

[peterh226]

Well, I’m learning some things not to do with painting…
- the paint container systems are great if you shake it up with all of the pieces.
- high build paint has a lot more stuff in it than you think. Shake and stir until you think you have it mixed and the start over!
- a paint stir stick will make a hole easily in the paint liner.

Here’s some images of the progression for the trunk lid.
This is with guidecoat only 4C83AEE7-6868-49D1-8FA6-EC3CE6B938AD.jpg
Here’s sanded down based on the guidecoat. 6A9CD61E-A7A0-4564-B3D8-5DA92F6C69D3.jpg
Next, another coat of primer with guidecoat 091D5343-00F5-4DBA-95DA-58AB55706B6B.jpg
A bit of sanding E150DCCA-9076-4B83-A678-F1FCAC1E1465.jpg
More sanding 02CB8A9A-8240-47F0-B6F4-F80523ADC85A.jpg
Ready for another coat 87D33CB1-4006-4271-BB08-74A077338705.jpg
I have at least one coat on all of these and some have since been sanded and are ready for another coat
7EEF5B9A-4045-4B6B-9FC1-4F72297AA498.jpg

I’m getting better at laying down this paint, but may get some help with the color and clear so I can assemble this winter. I was hoping to do it all myself, but may settle on getting it ready for final paint!

[Brave Salmon]

Peter, it looks like you are doing just fine with your prep. It's a real project to get it done to your satisfaction but i think you should continue to at least try and go all the way with the paint. I will remind you that I found that not a single painter in my area was willing to let me do the "prep" work and just have them spray the base and clear. They all base their reputation on the finished job and as we all know, if the prep is wrong, the finished paint will not work. They cannot guarantee the job unless they know it was done correctly which is code for they done it! It was either do it all yourself or hand it all off to a pro and write a big check that in my case was well overy $15k for a routine paint job. I chose to do it myself and although it was a major effort with lots of screwups, i was very happy with the final job and it was a great learning experience. Keep after it, practice a lot and you'll get 'er done. good luck/

[peterh226]

Peter, it looks like you are doing just fine with your prep. It's a real project to get it done to your satisfaction but i think you should continue to at least try and go all the way with the paint. I will remind you that I found that not a single painter in my area was willing to let me do the "prep" work and just have them spray the base and clear. They all base their reputation on the finished job and as we all know, if the prep is wrong, the finished paint will not work. They cannot guarantee the job unless they know it was done correctly which is code for they done it! It was either do it all yourself or hand it all off to a pro and write a big check that in my case was well overy $15k for a routine paint job. I chose to do it myself and although it was a major effort with lots of screwups, i was very happy with the final job and it was a great learning experience. Keep after it, practice a lot and you'll get 'er done. good luck/

My local guy stopped by to review my prep and see what the project looked like. He was pleasantly surprised with what I was doing and I'm going to get it all smoothed to at least 320 and then take it up to him to finish. Tape, seal, color, clear. Once it's done I'll fill in the details.
So, next step is to get everything looking as good as I can.

[peterh226]

I’m getting better at all of this. Sprayed a couple of primer cups without incident, so that is an improvement.
The fro nt nose cone was not as good as I thought. Blocking does not lie.
92E03532-318C-4FC4-9779-4B653F7DF52C.jpeg B80D33F6-D0DD-4539-B042-DBB1D71DF34A.jpeg. D172E2C8-451C-4D40-8A6C-A7350B8E6087.jpeg
Tomorrow get another coat on several pieces and then I guess take the doors apart! Maybe sanding later in the day. I like to make sure it dries.

[e36m3]

I’m getting better at all of this. Sprayed a couple of primer cups without incident, so that is an improvement.
The front nose cone was not as good as I thought. Blocking does not lie.
Attachment 171658 Attachment 171659 Attachment 171660 Attachment 171661
Tomorrow get another coat on several pieces and then I guess take the doors apart! Maybe sanding later in the day. I like to make sure it dries.

Hi Peter,

The prep work looks really good. When I click on the attachments in your latest post I get the error invalid attachment.

Thanks,

Andy

[peterh226]

Got some more primer and the sanded and filled some low areas. Slow, but improving.
CD584C85-29FF-49F8-8B7B-C33C2997B040.jpeg 30BC0605-D59C-4B2C-B70C-78D74719337E.jpeg B835CC9B-3486-4C06-9192-05CEF79D1C94.jpeg 884B8976-C8AB-4DDE-9704-E5B43B558DD5.jpeg 2E3E1CA8-D07B-4A65-9D81-7ECBE2A3851C.jpeg
These are before my hours of sanding today. All smooth now anyway!

[peterh226]

Doors continue to be one of the challenges of the build. I fit the door panels and added some rivnuts so they would be ok after paint. One of the panels (of course the dreaded drivers door) had some different spacing so I had to add some extra filler to adjust. Sanding inside corners is really hard to get them smooth. The aluminum to pieces for the windows also set some requirements for the top of the door to get it all smooth. Fill and sand and fill and sand. Starting to get the hang of this. More primer tomorrow the they will be done after the final sanding. It’s hard to see if it’s smooth when it is several colors.
A3B074BD-00E5-430F-AC89-7F6A5066C257.jpeg 1E673A81-55F6-4C2F-94B0-8DC742F36727.jpeg

Makes you appreciate what it takes to do a real pro job. Also, provides some real world experience to help decide which you-tube personality you want to pay attention to.
Biggest hint so far: start to sand as soon as the filler will allow you to. It is so much easier before it turns to rock!

[33fromSD]

Looks good Peter. Get some Evercoat Rage Extreme body filler, it's the easiest stuff I ever worked with. I started using this stuff a few cars before the 33 (found out it also worked good on fiberglass) and am using it once again on my 55 F100 I'm currently doing.

It's spendy, but as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.

Jim

https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-120-...s%2C130&sr=8-5

[peterh226]

Looks good Peter. Get some Evercoat Rage Extreme body filler, it's the easiest stuff I ever worked with. I started using this stuff a few cars before the 33 (found out it also worked good on fiberglass) and am using it once again on my 55 F100 I'm currently doing.

It's spendy, but as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.

Jim

https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-120-...s%2C130&sr=8-5

I used that in several places. I agree it works great - especially if you sand it quickly. I'm using some glaze type filler now to get the pin holes. Doors have another cost of primer and now back to sanding that down. The end is in sight on the doors...

[33fromSD]

I used that in several places. I agree it works great - especially if you sand it quickly. I'm using some glaze type filler now to get the pin holes. Doors have another cost of primer and now back to sanding that down. The end is in sight on the doors...

Your progress is looking good Peter.

If interested Evercoat makes a good finishing / blending putty too which sands very easy.

Jim

https://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Ev...s%2C186&sr=8-5

[peterh226]

While I’m waiting for my finish painter, I’m working on lots of other details.
I decided to upgrade to a hyperspark to complement the sniper. Also, since I changed to the Ram horns, the plug wires were not working so I took care of that as well.
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[33fromSD]

While I’m waiting for my finish painter, I’m working on lots of other details.
I decided to upgrade to a hyperspark to complement the sniper. Also, since I changed to the Ram horns, the plug wires were not working so I took care of that as well.
2169D37B-99EC-42C5-A62B-BAA27EBCC1C3.jpeg 56CF1800-05E7-426A-86CD-D3EEB2A189F7.jpeg 33D0F928-60AB-421A-AC78-450367A495FA.jpeg 192E925A-42C6-41BD-960C-C284291D40AA.jpeg

You'll love the Holley Hyperspark, I have it on my 70 challenger with the Sniper. It's been flawless for several years now.

Jim

[Tampa33Build]

I did the same with my Blueprint 400. Cannot understand why they sell an engine with EFI and a non EFI controllable distributor. Should at least be an upgrade option.

[peterh226]

Got a good start on mounting the battery. That meant putting down some sound deadened and carpet where the battery is mounted. Figured that anything I can do around the trunk now will help. I still need to be able to bend the side pieces to get the body on easily.
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Glued the. Center section of carpet to some quiet mat. Then poked the holes for the mounting bolts using a hot bolt to make good holes. Got most of the rest of the quiet mat installed. Progress!

[peterh226]

Now that I’ve seen the instructions for the Gen 2 front end, I decided to rear down the front end and get it set up as designed. I’m also going to take advantage of this to get the parts powder coated. The provider used for some other parts a couple of years ago did want to parts with ball joints, so I’m looking for another one. The paint did not last on these parts so nothing to lose.
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Next spring should be good to go!

[peterh226]

Hi Folks
While I make some adjustments, I'm looking at the boots on the front end.

Upper Ball Joint
The upper ball joint appears to be some manufactured version of a Moog K772 that was used on Chryslers from the 60' into the 80's. The boot below looks like the right replacement for the blue boot from FFR.
Speedway_91034006.png

UCA2.jpg Also, one of the ball joints is not really seated. That will not matter for function, but leaves less area for the boot to seat. UCA1.jpg

Lower Ball Joint
My best guess is that this is variation of Moog K8259 or K8749 that was used on a lot of Fords in the 70's into the 90's.
I had some Energy boots, but they did not really fit. With the groove at the bottom, it looks like this boot might use a retainer wire as well. I had a reference for Energy 9.13130 and tried that boot (It has 13009 molded into it). But, I think there is probably a better fit out there.

LCA.jpg

Do my ball joints look like yours? (That seems like a strange question to ask...) Any suggestions for the Lower Ball joint 'real' number? Any idea about boots?

[peterh226]

I’ve spent a lot of weekends traveling to watch my daughter play ice hockey and now into playoffs. Great family time, but not good for progress.
Got the front end pieces all powder coated and reassembled to the latest specifications. Still need to complete the ride height and alignment again.
CBAA1610-3757-4B4F-96D7-B3BD579EC1F9.jpeg
Looks a lot better than they did with my scratched paint.

The painter (Body by Mark) did just what it needed. Coat of sealer, color, and clear. Waterborne PPG. Red Velvet and Black. I’m happy with the prep work and I’m glad I spent all the time last summer.

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Now all of the parts have been brought home and are all ready to begin assembly. If I need to wait until NCAA is over, it will be worth the wait.
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[peterh226]

The winch on the ceiling let’s me do this alone! I’ll add video at some point.
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[peterh226]

The front door pins are not close to symmetrical. Got them installed, added the door arms, and the aluminum pieces.
26E6E3B6-1021-4F75-9844-6E5B4ED47B1D.jpeg 960FD163-7F23-49A8-9131-C38EFA991C60.jpeg A8A4D604-3C1D-4B73-8940-91F9477C43AA.jpeg AE0BA0BB-75DC-4068-B859-40A38A39123D.jpeg. B7858CD0-F44C-4D5F-8BC6-62A825744498.jpeg

[peterh226]

Been doing a lot in the final assembly. Doors are still an issue. Parts don’t fit together quite like when I last had it apart not quite sure why there is a difference, but I’m committed now.
I’ve had issues with the 3 link for quite a while. Finally determined that there are two problems. The lower control arms are too long (by about 2 inches) and that the frame does not have room for the driveshaft when the suspension drops. So I have ordered custom lower control arms (Gordon Levy) and cut on the frame. I added a 1/4 plate to the bottom to add reinforcement - bolted and bonded in place. Now the wheels are in the right place.
IMG_1368.jpg IMG_1386.jpgIMG_1390.jpg IMG_1434.jpg

[peterh226]

Finally solved several issues. I need to write a good summary of experiences.
Solved the steering binding issue. Got the new lower control arms. Made it to Baker’s for a Sunday show and got an award! It’s neat to have people appreciate the efforts.
On the drive home I could barely keep it running. Just made it home, but it would not restart. After new plugs and some discussion on the Holley forum, figured out one injector is operating all open or all closed. Not sure if electronic or injector but it’s off the car and back at its birthplace in Bowling Green. So no driving for a while. Drives easy and pulls like crazy from any speed in any gear. The Dynomax turbos are a great sound and volume. Still some tweaks to do, but now I’m looking for my next project!

IMG_3511.jpg

[33fromSD]

Finally solved several issues. I need to write a good summary of experiences.
Solved the steering binding issue. Got the new lower control arms. Made it to Baker’s for a Sunday show and got an award! It’s neat to have people appreciate the efforts.
On the drive home I could barely keep it running. Just made it home, but it would not restart. After new plugs and some discussion on the Holley forum, figured out one injector is operating all open or all closed. Not sure if electronic or injector but it’s off the car and back at its birthplace in Bowling Green. So no driving for a while. Drives easy and pulls like crazy from any speed in any gear. The Dynomax turbos are a great sound and volume. Still some tweaks to do, but now I’m looking for my next project!

IMG_3511.jpg

Nice looking ride Peter.

On the issue with keeping it running, have you thought about insulating your fuel lines with DEI vapor block fuel line sleeves and maybe header blankets to keep the heat down? Fuel Injection is definitely less susceptible to a fuel boiling / vapor lock because the fuel is moving at a faster rate, but under the right conditions it could exist. Wondering if some of your issue is heat related.

DEI Fuel line sleeves = https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010671

DEI Form-a-shield heat barrier = https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-050519

Jim