i wish they told,you, but you have to cut the insulation back an inch for the body lip.....
LOL. I was poking holes in the stuff forgetting it would need to be flush! Thanks for the reminder. Order of operations and interdependencies is really crazy with building a vehicle.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
At this point I know how most of the systems will fit together, it now deciding when to drill holes to mount the seats (like while you can still see the frame). I'm thinking that I am ready to put the composite floor in so I can the fit the transmission tunnel.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
might have disappeared when I deleted the FFR gas tank....
I don't think they came with the Gen 1, but I had the tank delete also, so I'm not sureIMG_1049.JPG. I purchased one from Amazon and piped it to the purge valve then created a circuit with a mini time delay relay to power it. It energizes the purge valve for 30 seconds when you crank it.IMG_0090.JPG
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
I had drilled the holes underneath before mounting the engine so I could turn the frame on it’s side. I’m not a fan of metal shavings near my eyes. So I just needed to drill the top side panels.
Once that was done i checked the fit of the structural panels and sanded a little bit to get them to fit. 7AA6E65B-3F73-4A30-9155-0BE612D5AB81.jpeg
I attached the lower panels. They are powder coated argent so will look ok from below. Next, I checked the fit of the panels. 0D9F08AF-096A-4AA7-A202-12B0149CBC1B.jpeg
The white stuff that FFR recommends is pretty easy to spread. I used about 98% of the 4 tubes. Spread it around so it will stick on all sides.
Attached the top panels and it’s starting to really look like a car. 348CC6E5-9FB9-4773-B235-D045B0C74F24.jpeg 96D7D10C-C67F-4085-896E-23456825FBBF.jpeg
I used a harbor freight pop-rivet air tool and that is a lot easier on the hands.
Acetone is you friend to keep the white glue from being a mess everywhere.
The floor feels really solid with this composite construction.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
As the Gen 2 folks have seen, the fuel pickup and the body have a fight about trying to share the same space. So, after seeing this problem and realizing the waterfall would only make it worse, I decided the only fix was to change the orientation of the pickup stuff.
Oct17_Fuel1.jpg
Here you can see I've twisted the pickup tube along the length so it will better fit into the sump area of the fuel tank.
Oct17_Fuel2.jpg
Here a little welding to put it back into place.
Oct17_Fuel3.jpg
Now you can see the orientation of the pickup and the outside tubes.
Oct17_Fuel4.jpg
Of course the holes in the top are indexed so it will only mount 1 way. I drilled one new hole and relieved a couple of the others so it would fit
Oct17_Fuel5b.jpg
And here you can see the result with the body in place.
Never a dull moment. I hope this works OK.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
Gen 2 Exhaust, Driveshaft, rear trans mount interactions ARRGGHHH
Hi folks,
I've got a Small Block Chevy with TKO500 (Blueprint). Also using a Moser 3-Link rear end. Gen 2 has some new wrinkles with new the composite floor - I think it will be great, but causes some vertical exhaust clearance issues. At this point everything is close, but not quite fitting and I'd like some advice.
- The exhaust is very close to the floor. It seems like the new floor needs new Header pipes that would drop the flange down about 5/8 - 3/4 of an inch so everything would fit OK compared to the old Gen 1 exhaust.
- If I drop the rear of the transmission down, I gain enough clearance on the Driver's side exhaust, but it's still a bit short on the passenger side. Also this reduces room for the driveshaft.
- The drive shaft needs to run almost parallel to the floor. If I let the rear suspension hang down, then the driveshaft will make contact at the rear of the floor. I don't think this is a good idea!
Options I'm considering:
- Mount the transmission as close to the floor as I can at the back while still having clearance for the driveshaft yoke. will probably end up with ~1/4 to the floor at the housing, but I could cut away some of the transmission housing to get a little clearance. I'm more concerned about the driveshaft yoke as the limiting factor.
- The passenger exhaust transition piece just seem like it is not going to work as is. It needs to be about ~5/8 lower at the flange to have the rest fit OK.
- I'm worried about the driveshaft and the axle at droop when unloaded. Has anyone tried adding cables or something that would hold up the rear axle if you jack it up even to change a tire? The maximum distance I am seeing between the top of the axle housing and the top of the frame above is about 9-1/2 inches. If the axle droops more than that, then the driveshaft is gonna contact the floor. It looks like if the rear axle goes up (so that clearance drops to maybe 7-1/2 inches) then the top link may touch the frame.
Here's some pictures to illustrate what I'm seeing. I will be getting my wheels and tire next week so I can drop it down and see the rear axle location.
Nov2_2.jpg
Here you can see the transmission at the lowest it can go without cutting away some of the housing. The Yoke has very little clearance at the back edge with the Rear axle being supported.
Nov2_3.jpgNov2_5.jpg
This is a squirrel's eye view of the passenger exhaust flange. It's just too close to the frame and there is no adjustment available since the muffler and emergency brake have some space needs farther back. Since I will have to raise up the transmission 1/4 to get at least a little clearance, that will only make this area worse.
Anyone else with a Gen 2 and SBC seeing something like this?
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
The tail of your transmission is way higher than I’m looking at. Have you checked your pinion angle?
I’ll try the various mounting holes at the back once I have the wheels and tires.
I think that doing whatever I need on the exhaust downtube will be what i need to do.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
No problem. I’m more worried about the driveshaft and the rear end. I’ll see what that looks like with the wheels in place and the go from there on the exhaust.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
I have a gen 1 and have the rear suspension jacked up to run a taller tire but have to use a limit cable to prevent driveshaft contact at full extension. Looking at your pics, you definitely need to raise the trans some more. Get the engine, trans, and rear end relationship right, then deal with the exhaust. Most likely you will have to modify or remake that front down pipe - it seems to be a problem with pretty much all the various Chevy engine platforms people use.
I have a gen 1 and have the rear suspension jacked up to run a taller tire but have to use a limit cable to prevent driveshaft contact at full extension. Looking at your pics, you definitely need to raise the trans some more. Get the engine, trans, and rear end relationship right, then deal with the exhaust. Most likely you will have to modify or remake that front down pipe - it seems to be a problem with pretty much all the various Chevy engine platforms people use.
Thanks for the feedback. What did you do for a limit cable?
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
Today was install the engine and see if things fit. There are a bunch of things for the interior (seat mounts) and other routing I want to plan. So, this is a test install and I'll probably remove it to do the floors and drill other stuff. Attachment 113969
The front clearance for one of the steering rack mount was going to interfere with the pulley so I ground it down a bit. I'm using a Blueprint 383 which has the March front mounts. Attachment 113970Attachment 113971
I then created new spacers from galvanized pipe as my hardware store didn't have any stainless tube. I moved the engine back 1/2 inch total.
My pal David E and I just dropped a Blueprint 400 SBC into his 33 this past weekend and ran in to the same fitment issue.
Thanks for posting these extremely important pictures because they really will be helping us a lot as we adjust things this weekend.
After playing around with moving the trans mount up and down, I now have it back to where it was originally. I added about 1/2 of spacers at the exhaust flange on the passenger side and I think that will end up making the exhaust for with the new floor.
There is only about 1/4 inch (8mm???) between the muffler and floor. But that is what the muffler supports work out to be as well.
I mounted the muffler hangers with 5/16 Riv nuts into the frame.
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
I really like the execution because the straps really look like they were designed to be there so Bravo on your solution!
Thanks for posting these pics because we're seeing similar issues on my pal's 33 as well even though we haven't permanently installed the driveshaft yet.
I wanted to check the wheel and tire fit as well as the under dash area. So many interdependent systems. Got the replacement drivers door fitted. This one is close enough that I will be able to get a fit I’m happy with. Decided to also start on the power windows. Completely new approach with the Gen 2.
I need 1/2” spacers on the rear to prevent contact with the body. Helps fill out the fenders as well. Pictures have wood spacers (really old school!) EE558B8B-C4CC-4982-A3C2-B442B14686CF.jpeg. 8EE1667F-53F9-4B4B-988A-0639A177A77D.jpg. EFE62EB9-203F-4279-ABD4-AE5DF23E6E64.jpeg
Making progress anyway!
My trim is positioned just like yours. Seems to need some moderate cutting and rewelding to fit. Does anyone have a picture of a completed trim product? David at FFR does not have a picture. The instructions offer limited guidance.
Thanks for your post..I thought I was alone and messed up my door openings.
Peterh226, your build is looking awesome, you should be extremely proud!
Thanks! It sometimes feels like you take steps backwards as you move along sooooo many small details. As I make progress, it really will be something that I built. Just trying to minimize the mistakes. Thanks for the support. It's really fun to see others (like you) get to the finish line (although I'm not sure it is ever finished!).
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
My trim is positioned just like yours. Seems to need some moderate cutting and rewelding to fit. Does anyone have a picture of a completed trim product? David at FFR does not have a picture. The instructions offer limited guidance.
Thanks for your post..I thought I was alone and messed up my door openings.
Not sure about welding... I want to see how the glass ends up being positioned before I commit to anything with these aluminum pieces...
- Polish the aluminum and clear coat?
- Fill and finish in body color?
- Powder coat?
- Bolt/Glue to attach??
- How to address the gap between the aluminum and the top of the door. (I did not fill before cutting the slots)
What is anyone else doing with these Gen 2 changes???
- Peterh226 #1134
'33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10
I filled the gap on my doors before working with the windows and it seems to work out ok. I did have to remove a small amount of aluminum to get it to work but not much.