SS383 Build - 33 Hot Rod #1134

[peterh226]

What I learned today.
I decided to test fit the windshield and discovered I should have done that a long time ago! I needed to adjust the window frame so it holds the windshield ok but now I have a big gap to fill. That’s ok, I’m getting better at it. One positive aspect is it helps the passenger side door glass fit a little better.
4B312845-BBA7-4355-943B-6DA33A4B002D.jpeg

[RoadRacer]

Thanks for the hint, I’ll unpack my glass!

[1932]

Good to see people use the door pins!!

[peterh226]

The Tunnel is one of the fun parts to get all ready to really commit to. Been working on this and some of the wiring to remove anything I'm not using to make room for the stuff I'm adding!
I added a panel to hold the electrics for the security door pins. DoorPinElec.jpg
Next on to the Tunnel.
I sprayed Black Raptor on the underside of the fiberglass and the aluminum tunnel. I know that no one but me will probably even notice, but that's OK. The tunnel did not fit up against the firewall very well so I needed fill some gaps. It's too cold to fiberglass (My heater works well, but I dont want to leave it going for a couple of days.) So I used some 2"x1/8" aluminum to fill the gaps. That also provides a good mount for the tunnel as well. The tunnel is all held in with riv-nuts and tapped threads. At least possible to remove without drilling a bunch of stuff.
Tunnel_context_d.jpg Tunnel_Rear.jpg tunnel_front_p.jpg Tunnel_front_d.jpg

Next I need to add the heat and sound panels and then check the fit of my console. Then, wiring!

[FF33rod]

Looking good Peter!

Steve

[e36m3]

Peter,

Thanks for the tip on the limiter straps!
I just installed them on my chassis too.

Thanks,

Andy

[peterh226]

There are zillions of ways to do this. Decided to try the copper pipe approach.
BB01899D-EBB0-421C-93A7-8ECAE51AFCD4.jpeg laid out on the mounting board.
EE4B04F0-200D-4ABB-AA3E-C2CBF6D53708.jpeg I used the welding table for support and just worked my way around the soldering and all worked out great.
F1444420-9EE4-47E4-A41F-E0D5B8B7093D.jpeg mounted on the wall. Takes up about 3x5 feet. Hope it helps with the air for painting.

[33fromSD]

There are zillions of ways to do this. Decided to try the copper pipe approach.
BB01899D-EBB0-421C-93A7-8ECAE51AFCD4.jpeg laid out on the mounting board.
EE4B04F0-200D-4ABB-AA3E-C2CBF6D53708.jpeg I used the welding table for support and just worked my way around the soldering and all worked out great.
F1444420-9EE4-47E4-A41F-E0D5B8B7093D.jpeg mounted on the wall. Takes up about 3x5 feet. Hope it helps with the air for painting.

Looks great...great job....In my shop I did something similar, biggest difference is I have one additional loop but same concept.....you'll be surprised at the amount of water you get out of the lines....the valve closest to the inlet will get the most water and then it tapers off each valve after that to the exit but each valve will still have water in it.

Even with this however, I still get some water in my lines in the Fall / winter to my sand blaster upstairs (my shop temp is ~60F in winter).....my bet guess is due to the long run of the line (over 40 feet) to the mezzanine upstairs the heated air from the compressor exiting the coil condenses due to the longer run of cold line. I added an additional water separator at the sand blaster valve which also helped a lot.

All my lines down in the main part of the shop are dry although when I used to paint with air (I have since switched to a turbine HVLP airless system) I ran a cheap disposable water / oil filer at the inlet of my gun to capture any unwanted moisture / oil.

I see you're manifold you made is mounted on an exterior wall by the garage door, you may want to consider putting a piece of 2" thick rigid foam insulation on the backside of the garage door track and then caulking between the foam and the ply wood to block cold Michigan winter air seeping in through the garage door on the manifold to prevent further condensation in the line.

[peterh226]

I’ve been removing wires from the harness as well as planning how to connect all of the extras together. I’ve been updating and creating new diagrams so I’ll be able to figure out what I did. I’ll post the final diagrams once I check it all out.
4652D489-3F3E-496F-9F02-872D2C1738C8.jpeg I removed the gauges harness and other stuff I didn’t need. Trying to get some space for the ductwork.
3654F26F-5293-48FF-8FF2-FEF9657D1D2B.jpeg 0EFAA3D9-B851-4C68-8CCE-215FC35590D5.jpeg
I have a lot of stuff wired at the back so the harness will split and some goes up to the top and some out the back.
Here’s my switch panel - lots of wires to organize.
4124FA0E-8807-405A-9915-EB743007D820.jpeg

[peterh226]

Started cleaning up the wiring and put in some carpet.
03F54858-4E78-44D6-8A59-F4562A6DF139.jpeg I wired the Watson switches up so I can remove and install with the build.
4BC282D1-AE9E-4B60-953A-A39746494440.jpeg.
I built a harness between the tail light 36837885-CA8E-45DA-A754-0B2EB86B0185.jpeg and the body. I used a 4 conductor connector to connect to the rear harness.
Next I am making a similar harness to deal with the headlights. I’m going to use some bullet connectors so I can feed it through a grommeted hole.
The last foot is challenging for all these connections!

[peterh226]

On my Gen 2 I had to trim the rear panel for clearance. Next, I designed and printed a cover that I can pop rivet into place. The carpet will cover this part as well. Here you can see the CAD model and the front and rear as installed.
152B610C-7EE1-4A7C-85C1-08ADDC80B767.png AB546746-19EE-4993-9D34-E39C21F2B830.jpeg C23FA039-A394-469E-A0F1-D11E52B30C74.jpeg

[peterh226]

I wanted to make the doors open a bit wider so I welded a piece of angle iron to act as a stop.
71CF53CE-787F-42E9-8EEF-ED97B0D0F626.jpg. 26EAB08B-5B2E-4073-97E0-F189860C4D0E.jpg FE5AFA50-C2AF-473B-87A9-7B957C8B12A2.jpg you can see the additional opening it provides while not changing the size.

[peterh226]

I want to get registered and some miles on it before paint. I’m making a detailed list for assembly so next time it’s easier. Also working on lots of little details. 153D2F52-C127-40DE-8080-EDD6C6EEA958.jpeg here’s a piece of vinyl I put to keep some dirt and stuff from coming into the interior.
0A8988D0-9225-4B7A-AA6F-4310CDBF1D57.jpg75EC101F-4803-4321-A149-D8386E10917C.jpg here’s the magnum shooter connector. Got the passenger side working well.
I attached the defroster duct and that pushes up the center of the dash a little bit. I’ll see how the hardtop fits next.
I got the hood release mounted with a metal backing for reinforcement. Hood and trunk latches working well.
Small steps.

[FF33rod]

Good call on the vinyl piece on the eBrake - I'm finding that's a tremendous source of hot air helping create a sauna in the cockpit.

Steve

[33fromSD]

Good call on the vinyl piece on the eBrake - I'm finding that's a tremendous source of hot air helping create a sauna in the cockpit.

Steve

Yup...agree...it's amazing the difference in comfort level with tops on these gals verses no top. Even on mine with the rag top, I drove it a few miles with the top on and the heat was really obvious. So much better / comfortable with the top off, but there is still heat radiating up from the chassis, it just doesn't get trapped by the top.

Jim

[peterh226]

I decided that I need to install the glass to get through all of the registration stuff and I want to get some miles on it before final prep and paint.
I read and watched a bunch of stuff on window installation and decided that by the time I got someone to do it, I might as well try.
86357E8A-0286-49D2-AFEE-16FC2B801E62.jpg here’s the materials. The primer is only good for a week once opened. I got some cheaper dauber and they worked fine. The higher ratio dispenser was required. 18:1 I believe.

F53E805A-4585-417A-9439-F448F3C80447.jpeg here’s what the bead looks like. 1/4 opening tapering to a point over 1/2 inch. This bead stands up and then squishes the right way when you place the window. AC787E2F-8765-48A8-BB45-F29E37C9D7E6.jpg
Here you can see how I masked stuff to try an minimize cleanup. This stuff is nasty so it’s kinda a one shot deal. I did the rear first and the did a better job on the front. The primer is really black and can be used as additional blackout if needed.

CDBB4CA4-0C7E-4BF5-8EBB-C9596721A187.jpeg 3D753B21-EF96-4B2E-8794-CD514289DC22.jpeg
Here you can see the bead standing up.
AF36C83B-6473-4243-B49C-68B39BEA2B39.jpeg
Where it’s not consistent they call that contamination that is getting cleaned off. 5713E143-FC91-419C-9F75-23AE97FDD092.jpeg
And here is the result with the wipers and my washer special outlet.
329FBF01-F057-433A-BDE1-93773FCE6AEB.jpeg

[peterh226]

Applied for the Michigan title today. Sometime in the next 4-6 weeks I’ll get a call for inspection and they will give me the VIN sticker and title. Now I need to figure out how much I can do and still get it back ready for inspection. Small steps.

[peterh226]

Got a call to verify the emergency brake works. Told me I’d get a call soon (couple of weeks) to set up the inspection. Got a letter in the mail essentially confirming this. So far so good. Now, waiting by the phone!

[peterh226]

Got through the Michigan registration and got the plate Friday. Figured out a way to get the fenders some more clearance over the tires. 017A36C2-B0CD-4CE5-9D60-C187BE1E50E2.jpg 244B5300-0488-4CCB-B93D-47919E6981A9.jpg these cables looks to raise the fenders off the tires by about 1.5 inches. I still may need to adjust the ride height, but I think this will make a big difference. Now that I can see what a difference it makes, kinda surprised that there is not something already there providing a bit more support.
Drove the car to the gas station and filled it up!! Calibrated the speedometer (Dakota Digital) and got it up to temp. Seemed to be ok with temps. Lots of heat from the parking brake area. So, will work on that.
Loud, fast, wooooohooooo!!!

[peterh226]

Great Rendering by https://www.facebook.com/julioccaetano. Cant wait to get going on this look!

PETER 3.jpg

[e36m3]

Hi Peter,

Did you hire Julio to do the rendering? His work is awesome! I'm considering having him do one for me.

Thanks,

Andy

[peterh226]

Yup, just chatted with him on messenger and sent pictures of the car and this is what he came up with. So cool to have a nice rendering of the car. Metal print arrives soon of it!!

[33fromSD]

Yup, just chatted with him on messenger and sent pictures of the car and this is what he came up with. So cool to have a nice rendering of the car. Metal print arrives soon of it!!

What does he charge for the renderings and then the metal prints?

Jim

[peterh226]

Just contact him in messenger and he'll send you his rates. It gets converted to Brazilian Real so it may vary. I ordered the metal print from Costco...

[peterh226]

This car is a hoot to drive. Got about 100 on it. Noisy, but once the trunk has sound deadened it will be better. Might change mufflers at some point. Ride is better than I thought it might be. Not gonna play with the springs yet. Here are a couple of shots of the rear camera setup.
5DDB23B4-08FE-45C4-AEA1-B94B5835F63C.jpeg 9BA95ED0-3917-4947-8428-888D35C3B0D6.jpeg 1950BA87-F719-40F7-BD50-1FA58DC60B57.jpeg D066268B-775D-47CF-A60F-9285A9AD98BE.jpeg

[peterh226]

77492CCC-D366-4A2A-A110-D964F545ACE6.jpeg metal print from Costco. This looks really cool!

[peterh226]

Holley Sniper users. A lot of people have noted that the throttle is reall touchy on the Sniper. Holley makes an extension part number 20-16 that increases the lever arm and throttle travel to reduce this issue. Here’s the install pictures, I can feel a big difference just pushing the gas pedal with my hand. Sine the car is up in the air, can’t take for a drive but this bracket has a lot of positive feedback in online reviews. It does slightly touch the air cleaner, but this is about 1/32 of an inch or less and cannot be felt at the pedal. A little hammer work will take care of it.
15806992-79B2-4D95-A86C-585B78F64C93.jpeg 3FC095E7-E8CE-48F0-9380-4AF77B52E611.jpeg 0B3D4D9E-7478-44ED-8274-137DC015D970.jpeg
Summit number SNE-20-16 $13.87

[33fromSD]

Holley Sniper users. A lot of people have noted that the throttle is reall touchy on the Sniper. Holley makes an extension part number 20-16 that increases the lever arm and throttle travel to reduce this issue. Here’s the install pictures, I can feel a big difference just pushing the gas pedal with my hand. Sine the car is up in the air, can’t take for a drive but this bracket has a lot of positive feedback in online reviews. It does slightly touch the air cleaner, but this is about 1/32 of an inch or less and cannot be felt at the pedal. A little hammer work will take care of it.
15806992-79B2-4D95-A86C-585B78F64C93.jpeg 3FC095E7-E8CE-48F0-9380-4AF77B52E611.jpeg 0B3D4D9E-7478-44ED-8274-137DC015D970.jpeg
Summit number SNE-20-16 $13.87

I just installed this same part on my 70 Challenger with the Holley Sniper EFI, once you drive it, you'll find out that this is a dramatic improvement over what it was before. So much better. I was hesitant to drive the Challenger anymore due to the jerky throttle and constantly doing minor tire squats off the line, now it's smooth riding and fun to drive.

The only thing to note is your bottom bolt should be in the other hole. Here is a clip from Holley showing location.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyvTWv0Iss0

Jim

[Brave Salmon]

Peter, I use this on my 347 sniper. It really helped but I wanted to point out that the big improvement came with installing the progressive linkage and updating the firmware to use progressive. So much improvement with my AOD that it should be stock setup on the Sniper. Here's a link to a great write up with more info: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...er#post_102336

[FF33rod]

I had the progressive linkage on my 347 and it definitely tamed it when I was driving it last fall while waiting for the paint shop. Once painted and assembled this year I got disappointed with it. Removed it and LOVE the throttle response, you have to be gentle for sure and I don't drive it in the rain. But I'm not running an automatic so I'm sure that makes a difference....

Steve

[peterh226]

I’ve been scratching my head about the look of the side panels and after seeing Julio’s render got an idea. I designed oval rings to go around the openings and provide better definition to the holes in the panel. I designed them in solidworks and then sent them off to sendcutsend.com to get cut out of .1 aluminum. Within a week and for less than $70 I have 4 rings for each side. They look great and I’m excited about how they will look.
6D7FCF31-CCC8-413D-AC96-F148A4D8FBBA.jpeg F7D0D1D6-84E8-4C99-9761-8782D420ECDA.jpeg
I would order from these guys again anytime you need some flat stuff cut.

[FF33rod]

Those look great Peter!

[Tampa33Build]

Great idea and find. These type of modifications are what makes each car unique!

[peterh226]

After a visit to Factory Five last week, I now have the updated install kit for the exhaust. The cause of the problem is that the shorty headers were not designed to have precisely located flanges that are needed for the Hot Rod chassis. So, FFR has changed to the cast Ram Horns to ensure a repeatable location. The alternative is to get a custom fitted pipe between the header and muffler.
83197C25-6F5E-4097-9334-E832358B8183.jpg
I’ll add more once installed.
Thanks to FFR. Great to chat with Mr LSX. Hopefully we can get back there again when COVID has become managed.

[narly1]

I’ve been scratching my head about the look of the side panels...

On the subject of screening used on vents like these I saw a tutorial online for making 3D grilles for audio speakers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2Xp6m_bU2c

Basically it amounts to making 2 piece die out of MDF in the shape you want and squishing the screening in between them to get the shape you want.

That way you could have the mesh recessed, flush, or proud as desired.

Imagine the possibilities!

[peterh226]

On the subject of screening used on vents like these I saw a tutorial online for making 3D grilles for audio speakers.

Basically it amounts to making 2 piece die out of MDF in the shape you want and squishing the screening in between them to get the shape you want.

That way you could have the mesh recessed, flush, or proud as desired.

Imagine the possibilities!

I ended up getting woven stainless steel and attaching it to the backside with bonded on studs. Then, on the front, I have 3/8" wide x .1 thick frames to highlight the opening. Once all painted, should look great!

[peterh226]

I’m mounting the top (Gen 2 without the inner liner) and at the windshield base the frame is twisting when I tighten the middle bolt. This means the frame does not fit the glass. I thinking or adding fiberglass and maybe a steel strip along the bottom to make the more rigid. Anyone else have comments?? After driving a bit this summer the windshield adhesive even came unbonded even after my careful prep.

[Blade]

peter, I don't know if this will help but here goes. I had my windshield installed today. First dry fit and the roof frame(Gen 2) at the bottom middle was way out, almost an inch. The glass wouldn't lay in the opening flat at all. It did before paint. I can't explain that. The glass guy spent a little over an hour sanding the windshield with 180grit and water/lube. once the glass fit the hole the bottom center had to be addressed. he put in the urethane and set the glass, we had the center bolt pretty loose, we then used a prop rod and short piece of 2x4 to push the roof frame out, that closed the gap. I have these pics for now. If you need more let me know.windshield in.jpg

[peterh226]

Hi Blade. I had the windshield fit and glued ok, but the twist on the frame was too much and over time it peeled away. I’m gonna fill the gap with some filler and bond a piece of steel into the frame. I don’t want to rely on the glass to bond it into shape. Thanks for the comments. Good to see you are making progress as well!

[Brastic]

Oh hey. I have #1033. If you were closer, I would drive up for a photo of both of the cars.