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Thread: Wheels/Tires

  1. #1
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    Wheels/Tires

    I'm re-thinking the purchase of my 15" wheels. Since the build started I've seen a bunch of pictures and actual cars and am thinking something larger would be better for looks and performance.

    Any Ideas?
    MK IV Roaster, Complete Kit
    Planning on Coyote,TKO600, 2015 12.88# IRS,Wilwood BrakesHalibrand Wheels

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Factory five has Halibrands in 17" and 18". I'm not a fan of anything else on a Cobra.

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    Any suggestion on tire manufacturers?
    MK IV Roaster, Complete Kit
    Planning on Coyote,TKO600, 2015 12.88# IRS,Wilwood BrakesHalibrand Wheels

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    For performance on 17", Nitto NT05. That is a 200 treadwear. For more of a cruiser, Nitto 555G2.

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    carful with your spring rates and rear suspension setup as well. I live in the NE and am running 17's on an IRS car and the ride is actually good, however the same setup on a solid axle without the correct spring rates around these awful roads would give me pause

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  8. #6

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by eamici View Post
    Any suggestion on tire manufacturers?
    Like you I love the 15" wheels; however, the tire selection is really limited.
    If you decide to NOT go with the Halibrands then you need to pay great attention to finding a wheel that looks period correct on the car.
    Since I'm trying emulate, not copy, Shelby's Personal Car (CSX-3178) finding a wheel that worked was tough, but I think I nailed it.

    https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/m...sx-3178/380123

    I'm running 245/45-17's up front with 285/40-17's out back so I've got the tallest sidewall possible to give me that 15" look.
    Good luck on your quest for your wheel and tire combo and shown below are a couple of possible alternative shopping options:

    https://www.oewheelsllc.com/make/For...tang/year/2000

    https://lmr.com/products/94-04-Mustang-Wheels

    The attached video is my car which sports 10th Anniversary Cobra wheels that somewhat resemble the old sunburst style Cobra wheel.

    https://youtu.be/CaRlqMmKIzk

    Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-24-2019 at 06:38 PM.

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    I have a set of 17" Bullit wheels listed in the parts for sale section.

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    I see your signature says Wilwood brakes. The FFR kit or something else? The FFR ones won’t fit 15” wheels.
    I have 15s with cooper cobras and quite happy with them.

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    You mention performance. If that is the case you want to be looking at something with 200 tread wear. I personally think anything higher is not adequate for these cars if you are running anything more than a 225hp stock 5.0L. These are serious cars. They need serious tires, unless you are driving Miss Daisy to car shows and back. Tires are the single most important component of the suspension system. Acceleration, handling, and braking are all dependent on your tires.

  12. #10

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    You mention performance. If that is the case you want to be looking at something with 200 tread wear. I personally think anything higher is not adequate for these cars if you are running anything more than a 225hp stock 5.0L. These are serious cars. They need serious tires, unless you are driving Miss Daisy to car shows and back. Tires are the single most important component of the suspension system. Acceleration, handling, and braking are all dependent on your tires.
    Ditto On Sir Avalanche's Comment!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-19-2019 at 05:37 PM.

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    I really debated responding but honestly I’m sick of the “if you don’t have sticky summer rubber your car will be a low performance death trap” posts.
    I have 400 treadware 15” cooper cobra tires on a approx 300hp 302 MK4 and can tell you it will accelerate faster than almost anything on the road, go faster around a corner than you have any business doing on the street and stop as quick as you likely need to. Don’t you think a 2200 pound car with 235 width tires will stop quicker than most cars?

    In addition if you want added safety, I probably have better grip in the wet, I absolutely have better grip in the cold and where I live we get winter, the spring and fall have lots of great driving days that would be too cold to safely drive summer rubber. R compound would be downright scary.

    The bigger sidewalls give a more comfortable ride and avoid dented rims on our terrible frost heaved roads.

    Will modern low profile sticky rubber outperform mine? Absolutely. It will hook up and accelerate faster, but probably talking tenths, not seconds, to 60, hardly seat of you pants noticeable.

    Will they go around a corner faster? Of course, only applicable on a track or autocross though. Safer around corners? Debatable. Not going to save you if you do something dumb like over cook it and drop the throttle, or stab the throttle mid corner, especially if you have a 500hp ego machine most admit you can’t make use of below 100mph+ and just makes it scarier to drive at lower speed. If you are really pushing your car to the limits, ie not driving miss daisy, then you are going that much faster when you **** it up.

    Better braking? For sure, but better than what? Already stopping quicker than almost everything else on the road. I don’t think you are unsafe driving one of these cars without summer rubber because you will take too long to brake.

    Even lots of track day instructors write about how students show up with too much rubber and it hinders their learning, as they don’t get to feel the car at the limit.

    I would never debate that a skilled driver can wring more performance out of better tires, it’s obviously the most important factor in going around a race track fast, let’s just stop with the misinformation that these 15” 400 treadware tires are somehow dangerous and slow.

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  15. #12

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Murd,

    You're in a good place from a HP to Weight Ratio perspective.
    Some of us went a little overboard.
    Enjoy it my friend, enjoy it.

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post

    Even lots of track day instructors write about how students show up with too much rubber and it hinders their learning, as they don’t get to feel the car at the limit.
    I went through your points one by one and did not find anything I disagreed with.

    I did want to quote the one that I thought was best - I have often said that people really shouldn't be getting used to driving (learning to drive their "street" supercar) their street cars on tires (slicks / purple Hoosier "crack") that they are not going to be running out on the big road.

    But that is not often listened to - I think mostly it pertains to those who are dedicated to whatever it takes to win / be competitive (which is fine - whatever makes them happy).


    My biggest problem with higher than 200tw tires is I honestly don't think I can wear them out before they're old + dry + need to be changed out anyway....


    I'm a big believer in race it the way you drove it to the track.

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    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Mikeee,

    My Nitto 555's (300 TW) don't seem to want to hook and you can hear me pedaling it.

    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    Sorry To Pull The Gators Tail, But It's Fun!

    Steve

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Murd,

    Discussion, not argument. It is fun to see different viewpoints.

    You pretty much made a series of statements and then put up your own counter argument for each one. You agree that your car won't accelerate, handle, or stop as well as if you put 200TW tires on it.

    I agree that that for track events you can find the limit at lower speeds with lower performance tires. I didn't say that everyone should be running Hoosier A7s or R7s. I suggest that the tires need to be up to the performance capabilities of the car. 400TW simply are not for anything with much over stock 5.0 power levels. Your car isn't far from that. My car has 500hp and Wilwood brakes. Cooper Cobras would simply be overwhelmed on my car. Those tires are designed for "classic muscle cars". Our cars have many times more performance than what those tires were designed for. As far as braking, there is no such thing as stopping too fast. 1 ft more stopping distance can literally be life and death. I went to an autocross school with my 200TW, and the national champion instructor suggested that I could use even better tires. Unfortunately, no one makes them in our size.

    The only thing I need to disagree with you on is the term "misinformation". You completely agreed that it was not misinformation in your dialog. I'll stick by my statement that 200TW tires are appropriate for most of our cars.

  19. #16
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Hey Mikeee,

    My Nitto 555's (300 TW) don't seem to want to hook and you can hear me pedaling it.

    https://youtu.be/PCngiKoopkA

    Sorry To Pull The Gators Tail, But It's Fun!

    Steve
    555R's are 100 tread wear & have had a good life for 10,000 miles. Expect one more summer out of them. Still its easy to overpower them if you are careless. Have two unused front 255X17 so expect will get another pair of 315X17 for the back when they are gone. Was looking to the Nitto NT01 next but don't want to dump two brand new tires.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 04-25-2019 at 11:13 AM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
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    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    Discussion, not argument. It is fun to see different viewpoints.

    I went to an autocross school with my 200TW, and the national champion instructor suggested that I could use even better tires. Unfortunately, no one makes them in our size.

    The only thing I need to disagree with you on is the term "misinformation".

    I thought "misinformation" was a bit too much myself - it was "best considered advice".


    Among (17" 315) tires I would additionally consider for street use:

    R888 (some sort of R888, maybe 5000+ miles), NT01 (still waiting for a mileage report), NT05R (still waiting for a mileage report), and maybe 555R's (see mileage report below).

    I have seen Jeff Kleiner mention that drag radials on an autocross car may not be all we're looking for (multiple potential issues).

    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    555R's are 100 tread wear & have had a good life for 10,000 miles. Expect one more summer out of them. Still its easy to overpower them if you are careless. Have two unused front 255X17 so expect will get another pair of 315X17 for the back when they are gone.

    Was looking to the Nitto NT05 next but don't want to dump two brand new tires.

    NT05's are ok, probably good for 8-10,000 miles on light cars (like ours).

    I really liked the audible feedback I got from R888's I ran a few years back - they really "talked" to me approaching the limit on the autocross course (compounds may be different now).

  21. #18
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    I was reluctant to post my above message as I didn't want to start a fight, thankfully it seems like we are still having a friendly discussion, even if we might disagree. Everyone on this forum has been very helpful to me through the process of planning, building and sorting out my car, and I'm very thankful for that.

    I would like to qualify my comment about "Misinformation". Many forum users take what they read on here as gospel, especially from the frequent posters. If someone is considering 15" wheels/tires, but continually reads that they need really sticky high performance tires to make these cars safe and driveable, they are likely to not only go that route but to then express that opinion to others. I wanted to add my counter point, based on my own experience, that if you want a 15" setup it still makes for a very fun high performance car.

    Much of the decision likely has to do with what you want out of your car. I wanted a fun, fast, old school 1960's sports car experience. I'm quite certain I have more grip than any street cobra had in the 60's. If someone is building their car with the intention of it being an autocross and/or track day weapon I don't think they would be considering 15s in the first place. I would really like to try some autocross and track days but with the time constraints of a young family and commitments nearly every weekend I don't know if it is something I will get to do anytime soon, however if it became something I was doing regularly I'd almost certainly have another set of tires and wheels for that.

    I do disagree with suggesting sticky rubber as a way to make massively overpowered cars like ours safer, only for fear of creating a false sense of security. Most of us know these high HP engines are easily capable of breaking loose the stickiest tires at street speeds, especially when you get into the 400-500+ hp range. With that kind of power the line between just enough throttle and too much is pretty thin no matter what rubber, I'd think there is more than one builder out there thinking he tamed his 427w with sticky rubber only to discover it is still a major handful. Every tire has it's grip limit, pick what you want for where you are going to use it, and the conditions you are going to use it in.

    I am far from an expert on suspension tuning, but my limited knowledge tells me that to really exploit the cornering grip of 200 TW tires you will also have to do some very serious chassis tuning with springs, shocks and roll bars. This is probably only really achievable on a track. Once again, I'm not suggesting this as an expert opinion, but I understand you can possibly exaggerate some unwanted handling traits, like our cars notorious lift off oversteer, by fitting very sticky tires without tuning the suspension to work with the tire's grip levels.

    Bottom line I feel like if you like the look, ride and all weather ( I went for a drive yesterday, I think our high was 50f) driveability of a 15" wheel/tire setup, I don't think it's a bad choice for driving on the street, regardless of HP.

  22. #19
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    I just switched my Mkll and BMW 335 over to Nito 555 G2's from Michelin PSll. The new Michelin's would have been almost twice the price so....made the change.
    The Nito is OK but I can spin them much more easily than the Michelin's. The BMW has a tune so 380 hp and over 400 ft/lb torque, the Cobra is about 300 hp. The Cobra will bog a little sometimes (Ford EFI) when the engine is warming up and the other day it spun the tires when it caught, never did that with the Michelins and I was not pushing it, just turning into a low speed park zone. Just need to know what to expect.
    David W
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  23. #20
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    .... thankfully it seems like we are still having a friendly discussion, even if we might disagree. Everyone on this forum has been very helpful to me through the process of planning, building and sorting out my car, and I'm very thankful for that.
    Absolutely! Sometimes a good debate can be fun and informative. It can bring up views and points that no one thought of.

    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    I do disagree with suggesting sticky rubber as a way to make massively overpowered cars like ours safer, only for fear of creating a false sense of security.
    A car that can turn faster and stop faster is inherently safer at a given speed. False sense of security is a driver issue, not a car safety / capability issue.

    Here is what I mean:
    We are cruising side by side at 75mph on the freeway. A truck pulls out across both lanes. My sticky tires allow me to stop just a couple inches short. Your tires put you 6 ft. into the truck. Same situation if we had to swerve. You either get loose and spin out or push and can't turn, and I just drive around.
    Same goes for acceleration. I am hooked up at a level where your car blazes the tires and gets sideways.

    There is the airbag and seatbelts making everyone drive like lunatics argument. I'm not on board with that. We could remove the seatbelts and weld a spike on the steering column that points at our chests. Instant safe drivers!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    There is the airbag and seatbelts making everyone drive like lunatics argument. I'm not on board with that. We could remove the seatbelts and weld a spike on the steering column that points at our chests. Instant safe drivers!
    To continue the friendly discussion, here is my angle on that (and more):

    I'm pretty certain that it's a "proven fact" that ABS didn't reduce rear end collisions - it simply taught the general population that they could (usually) brake in a shorter distance (without actually learning the skill of panic braking).

    I'm pretty certain that airbags very rarely save anyone who (simple + cheap) seat belts wouldn't have saved (if they had been used).


    So these sorts of systems were implemented at a cost of thousands of dollars per new vehicle, and what exactly did we accomplish besides running up the cost of new vehicles and teaching the general population they don't have to learn the finer skills of driving their cars (and surviving)?


    At this point I guess that's the world we live in, but I think there was a simpler (and cheaper, and more efficient) path.



    Additionally, my daily highway observations tell me that distracted driving due to smart phones is an exponentially larger problem than drunk or otherwise impaired driving ever was...
    Last edited by mike223; 04-24-2019 at 08:16 PM. Reason: typo

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    Hmm last year's London show, I had a chance to ride in an ERA with a stroked FE 482 nearly 580hp.. he tuned the suspension and played with the weight distribution. That car didn't spin but just hauled ***

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jcdata View Post
    Hmm last year's London show, I had a chance to ride in an ERA with a stroked FE 482 nearly 580hp.. he tuned the suspension and played with the weight distribution. That car didn't spin but just hauled ***
    Two words: throttle modulation. You got a ride from someone who knows his car well and understands that the throttle is not an on/off switch. Not everyone gets the concept that the pedal on the right has an infinite number of positions between idle and W.F.O.

    Jeff

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Two words: throttle modulation. You got a ride from someone who knows his car well and understands that the throttle is not an on/off switch. Not everyone gets the concept that the pedal on the right has an infinite number of positions between idle and W.F.O.

    Jeff
    Agreed.

    Just for the record, 580hp @ 2300lbs should be capable of less than 9.5 seconds @ over 140mph in the 1/4 mile, and something under 2.5 seconds 0-60mph. (hauling ***)


    But you'll never approach those figures without drag slicks and a lot of practice.

    And you're not going to get much drag strip practice approaching that level because of NHRA / IHRA roll cage requirements for convertibles - sir, we're going to have to ask you to leave and don't ever come back without a certified cage (among numerous other requirements).
    Last edited by mike223; 04-25-2019 at 10:01 AM.

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    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    eamici, your choice of tires is really dependant on your intended use of the car, where you live and, if applicable, how early and late you intend to use it in the driving season. Where I live the regular tire shops don't stock performance summer tires. You can get them but, they are not recommended for regular use. The driving season is from May to middle of October at best. We have snow forecasted for this Saturday. Our best month is July with an average high of 74° F to a low of 50° F. On top of this, summer weather regularly includes thunderstorms and associated rain showers. For this reason I run Cooper all season performance tires. I know I don't have the same grip on a warm day as a performance tire but I have way better grip driving home after an evening out with my wife.

    These cars are about choices and compromises. Know your limits and stay within them.

    Norm

  31. #26
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    But you'll never approach those figures without drag slicks and a lot of practice.
    So you need stickier tires????

    I couldn't pass that one up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    But you'll never approach those figures without drag slicks and a lot of practice.
    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    So you need stickier tires????

    I couldn't pass that one up.

    lol - I would really need to work my nerve up to try that - I recognize too many potential catastrophic failure modes - must be getting old.

    Then I'd need more engine, stickier tires and a lot of practice...



    P.S. - Norm said it very well:

    Quote Originally Posted by Norm B View Post

    These cars are about choices and compromises. Know your limits and stay within them.
    Last edited by mike223; 04-25-2019 at 11:10 AM. Reason: P.S.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eamici View Post
    I'm re-thinking the purchase of my 15" wheels. Since the build started I've seen a bunch of pictures and actual cars and am thinking something larger would be better for looks and performance. Any Ideas?
    It's only my opinion, but I think that the roadster's still looks best with 15" tires. They fill in the wheel wells nicely, add some cushion to the ride, and are more true to the original cars.
    Depending on how your planning to drive your roadster, Mike's post address the issue of being able to still have a decent handling tire, in the 15" size, if you chose to go that route.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    It's only my opinion, but I think that the roadster's still looks best with 15" tires. They fill in the wheel wells nicely, add some cushion to the ride, and are more true to the original cars.
    Depending on how your planning to drive your roadster, Mike's post address the issue of being able to still have a decent handling tire, in the 15" size, if you chose to go that route.
    You're not alone here. I totally get the benefit of the 17's, but I am now on my second F/F Roadster with the 15's. I love the way they look, and the extra sidewall is VERY welcome on Detroit area Mean Streets. I'm not tracking the car (but admire those that do), I'm just having fun, so it works for me.

    Just my .02, from someone that is usually just lurking around here.

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    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Well, I do have to agree. Nice fat Goodyear Billboards or Avons are what looks best. I also think that a single roll bar looks best. I have two roll bars for the safety aspect.

    I tracked just last night on a track that requires some hard braking. The Wilwood brakes and Nitto NT05s are awesome. Felt the same at the end of the session as the start.

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    If you like 18in wheels, the Goodrich Rival is a great tire in Cobra sizes (315 &275).
    358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe

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    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    555R's are 100 tread wear & have had a good life for 10,000 miles. Expect one more summer out of them. Still its easy to overpower them if you are careless. Have two unused front 255X17 so expect will get another pair of 315X17 for the back when they are gone. Was looking to the Nitto NT01 next but don't want to dump two brand new tires.
    Kevin-

    It seems strange that you would wear out your rear tires faster than your fronts... Whatcha been doing that may have caused this unusual phenomenon?

    I hope you are well!

    Regards,

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Two words: throttle modulation. You got a ride from someone who knows his car well and understands that the throttle is not an on/off switch. Not everyone gets the concept that the pedal on the right has an infinite number of positions between idle and W.F.O.

    Jeff
    LOL, learn something new everyday!
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    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    Kevin-

    It seems strange that you would wear out your rear tires faster than your fronts... Whatcha been doing that may have caused this unusual phenomenon?

    I hope you are well!

    Regards,

    Steve
    Must be the weight distribution.

    All is well Steve, Thanks.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 04-27-2019 at 10:09 AM.
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    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveHsr View Post
    If you like 18in wheels, the Goodrich Rival is a great tire in Cobra sizes (315 &275).

    The autocross instructor was specifically referring to The BFG Rival S or the Bridgestone RE71-R when he said I could use better tires. Those are the two hot 200TW autocross tires. If either one made both sizes (255 and 315) in 17s, I would switch to them in a heartbeat.

  42. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    It's only my opinion, but I think that the roadster's still looks best with 15" tires. They fill in the wheel wells nicely, add some cushion to the ride, and are more true to the original cars.
    Depending on how your planning to drive your roadster, Mike's post address the issue of being able to still have a decent handling tire, in the 15" size, if you chose to go that route.
    I havent posted on the forums in ages, my MkII Roadster build was finished in 2006 (?) or so. I put 15 inch PSE Hallibrands on it because I loved the look of the 15 inch wheels. Even back then, however, the 15 inch tire choices were limited. I have BFG Radial TAs on it and they are pitiful as far as traction goes. The biggest issue is stopping from high speed, the tires just slide along the road. Granted, these tires are not new and only get harder with age.

    With my kids old enough to drive the car (late 20s) I actually came to the forums today looking for threads about replacing my 15 inch wheels in the interests of safety. While I still think the car looks best with 15 inch wheels, Im going to be buying a set of 17 inch wheels and put on a set of "modern" tires. So thats my 2 cents on the wheel size debate from a log time owner of 15 inch wheels.

    Take care.

    Tom

  43. #37
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    Good timing on all of this discussion for me as well. I have enjoyed reading all of this. I am struggling with my choice of rubber. I diced to go with the 17" Halibrands from FFI. I love the look of the 15" wheels but I also love the more aggressive look of a much wider tire from the back. Soooooo... My decision ended up being part #14865 where you get 17" wheels with 9" width on the front and 10.5" on the back. However, I think I have found now that because I need different tires for front and back (front - 245/45 and rear 315/35) certain tires are not intended for this use. After a fair bit of chatting with tire places, my first choice was Nitto NT05's. They are at 200 wear rating tire so pretty grippy and I really don't care how long they last since I live in the Toronto area and this car won't get enough use for me to worry about longevity in the tire. However, I am told you can not get NT05's in the two different sizes I need matched to go on the same car. Does this make sense? My fall back's are the NT555 G2 which are a 300 rating and still won't break the bank. I am told with just over 300 hp, I really don't need an 888 rated tire and this helps me save a few $$ anyway. The other tires that I was interested in were the Mickey Thompson Street Comp. I was all over these until I went on line and seemed to see a lot of mixed reviews on Mickey Thompsons.

    I would also like a tire that if in a year or two I decide to stroke out my 351 Windsor and get it closer to the 450 range, I still have a tire that I can work with. Maybe I am overthinking this Would appreciate all of the sage advice I can get on this since I am a newbie to these cars and I can tell that there are a lot of varying perspectives on this.

  44. #38
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GDH1234 View Post
    ...However, I think I have found now that because I need different tires for front and back (front - 245/45 and rear 315/35) certain tires are not intended for this use. After a fair bit of chatting with tire places, my first choice was Nitto NT05's. They are at 200 wear rating tire so pretty grippy and I really don't care how long they last since I live in the Toronto area and this car won't get enough use for me to worry about longevity in the tire. However, I am told you can not get NT05's in the two different sizes I need matched to go on the same car. Does this make sense? ...
    Use 255/40-17 front and 315/35-17 rear. Both are available in the NT-05 and 255/40 actually fit the 9" rim better.

    Jeff

  45. #39
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Use 255/40-17 front and 315/35-17 rear. Both are available in the NT-05 and 255/40 actually fit the 9" rim better.

    Jeff
    +1 IMHO best size choice for the car.

    The other tires that I was interested in were the Mickey Thompson Street Comp.

    FWIW Car & Drive did a traction test a number of years back & Nitto came in 1st think MT was 2nd or 3rd.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 04-29-2019 at 11:19 AM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  46. #40
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GDH1234 View Post
    However, I am told you can not get NT05's in the two different sizes I need matched to go on the same car. Does this make sense?
    I'm running NT05's at 255 and 315 on 17's. Its a great look and I've been pretty happy during go-carting
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

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