Downside of painting panels and body separately?

[RRussellTx]

I'm getting close to the big day of spraying color and I would feel a lot better if I could reduce the scope of work for the big day(s).

I have seen multiple posts where very knowledgable experts advocate for spraying everything in one day, but that seems like a long day. It also reduces my chances of learning from my mistakes and being able to apply my learning to this project.

While I acknowledge benefits to spraying everything at one time, my question is what are my potential issues if I spray the panels separately?

I was thinking of Doors>Scoop>Hood and Trunk>Body.
I would do sealer, paint and clear in one day for each set of panels.

I have a gallon of main body color and 2 qts of the stripe color so I think I have plenty of paint.
This stripe is a tri-coat but the main body color is just one stage.

Thoughts?

[edwardb]

I am not remotely an expert and wouldn't dream of trying to paint myself. But one observation from watching the pros paint mine. They do separate the work into two major categories. First underside of hood, underside of trunk lid, back side of doors, etc. Full treatment including clear. Then as a second step, position everything and do all the exterior surfaces at once. May not match what the Jeffs and others suggest. But that's what I've observed FWIW. Good luck!

[wallace18]

As far as I know from my painter, black is about the only color you can get away with doing separate.

[CraigS]

No expert here either but as I understand it you 'might' get away w/ it w/ a solid color, especially solid w/o clear, but even then it is risky. I would do as Edwardb says his guy does. Those less seen surfaces should give you plenty of practice. I know that paint w/ metallic in it (dang near everything now a days) should be painted all at once and the panels should be painted in the same orientation as they will be on the car. IE; don't lay the doors down on a table, paint them while vertical. They way the tiny metallic flakes oriend themselves is affected by the angle spray gun vs part. Also be sure to put exactly the same # of clear coats on all panels because many clears have just the slightest tint. I don't think they make them to have a tint, it's just that it is difficult to make them perfectly clear.

[RRussellTx]

Thanks for the replies. I definitely will have all of the panels in the proper orientation for the reasons you mention CraigS. I also understand that it is important to apply the same number of coats. Makes perfect sense.

I followed lots of Bodywork threads and one of my favorites is Shannons (srobinsonx2). He painted the underside of the panels and also knocked out the doors at the same time. Thats what got me thinking about it.

Again, I have heard that you 'should' paint them all at the same time but I am curious about the 'why'. It will be out of the same gallon of paint and I have a shaker to get it thoroughly mixed before each session. The parts are going to be all over the garage so they won't be sprayed physically together anyway. Does temperature and humidity come into play or something?

It's going to be a super stressful day for me so I'm just thinking through ways to limit my risk/stress. My build is more about taking my time and getting it right (slowly if needed) while learning as much as I can. The added cleanup and prep is not a big deal for me.

Thanks again for the help!

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you're shooting from the same batch of paint at relatively the same temperature using the same gun and pressure settings and are consistent with your own movements the individual panels don't know or care whether you sprayed their neighbor 3 minutes ago or 3 days ago. Earlier this year I did a repair on one I painted about 2 years ago which involved respraying the entire body (3 stage no less). It matched the 2 year old doors, hood and trunk perfectly. That said, with the exception of the underside of the scoop I spray everything---top, bottom,inside and outside---in in the same session. If you're breaking it up be conscious of your recoat windows; I use PPG and with those products the sealer needs to have base in <72 hours (although I try for less than 24) and base needs to be under clear within 24 hours.

Jeff

[RRussellTx]

If you're shooting from the same batch of paint at relatively the same temperature using the same gun and pressure settings and are consistent with your own movements the individual panels don't know or care whether you sprayed their neighbor 3 minutes ago or 3 days ago. Earlier this year I did a repair on one I painted about 2 years ago which involved respraying the entire body (3 stage no less). It matched the 2 year old doors, hood and trunk perfectly. That said, with the exception of the underside of the scoop I spray everything---top, bottom,inside and outside---in in the same session. If you're breaking it up be conscious of your recoat windows; I use PPG and with those products the sealer needs to have base in <72 hours (although I try for less than 24) and base needs to be under clear within 24 hours.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff!
That's great information, much appreciated.

[Ponymedic]

Full Disclosure Not an expert by any means for that you should listen to the Jeffs and others
I just painted mine a metallic blue (and then had to spray clear again because I burnt thru clear....but that's another story) I painted at one time utilizing the Kleiner flip table and door stand. I found this system to work very well. Painted base one evening then tape/stripe and clear the next day..For me the only PIA was laying out the stripesImage.jpgImage1.jpgDoor Stand.jpg

[RRussellTx]

Thanks,

I'll probably man up and paint it all at the same but I was just thinking through the options.
I have all the flip tables and space too so its just a matter of me having the sack for it.

[j.miller]

Listen....now listen to me boy ! You, are a chicken hawk (never mind, wrong thread). I'm going to give you the best advise you will ever get...DON'T PRACTICE ON YOUR CAR PARTS. Practice on trashcans, neighbors cat, wife's car, back wall of your closet....whatever. Go back to the paint store and get some of their "bad match" cheap and learn your reduction, air, fluid, pattern, speed...get familiar with your gun and equip. If you think painting is expensive the first time you won't believe what 2nd &3rd time cost...da Bat

[j.miller]

OH! and forget the flip table. Once you have all the cats on your block painted you can paint the bottoms of your hood. deck and scoop. You can even paint them on different days to wrap your head around painting.Bat

[RRussellTx]

Thanks Jeff!
Practice is definitely in the plan!

What's your advice on when to start drinking? Some of your advice like 'turn the fan down and shoot the hood jamb from across the room' and 'why hand sand when there is a perfectly good power sander near by' would required some liquid confidence on my part but then that would hinder the results. So many decisions...
Just kidding!

Seriously, you guys do have some great information on all the threads and I really appreciate it!
I've had many questions but pretty much all of them have already been answered somewhere.
Thanks again!

[rich grsc]

Thanks Jeff!
Practice is definitely in the plan!

What's your advice on when to start drinking? Some of your advice like 'turn the fan down and shoot the hood jamb from across the room' and 'why hand sand when there is a perfectly good power sander near by' would required some liquid confidence on my part but then that would hinder the results. So many decisions...
Just kidding!

Seriously, you guys do have some great information on all the threads and I really appreciate it!
I've had many questions but pretty much all of them have already been answered somewhere.
Thanks again!

The night before, and quit the week after.