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Thread: Electric Choke Setup

  1. #1
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Electric Choke Setup

    Hey all. I was testing a few things and noticed that the 12V connector from the Russ Francis harness to the electric choke is always on. Meaning that when I test the choke connections with a MM when the key and engine are off, I'm still getting 12V. My choke doesn't seem to work properly and I'm wondering if a constant 12V connection is burning it up? Is this how everyone has their's hooked up?
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  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Never tested it; however, I kill all the power to my car when I turn it off so I have no idea if it is a drain or not.

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Hey all. I was testing a few things and noticed that the 12V connector from the Russ Francis harness to the electric choke is always on. Meaning that when I test the choke connections with a MM when the key and engine are off, I'm still getting 12V. My choke doesn't seem to work properly and I'm wondering if a constant 12V connection is burning it up? Is this how everyone has their's hooked up?
    Something isn't right there. The choke circuit is not always on. Check the schematic in the RF instructions. The choke circuit is on the IGN FEED portion of the panel. Maybe check the wiring on your ignition switch. Sounds like you might have wires on the wrong terminals putting battery power into the ignition circuit without the key on? If not then something else isn't right. Most definitely the choke isn't always powered. Only four things are on the battery circuit and always on: headlights/radio memory/courtesy lights (one circuit), brake lights, horn, cooling fan. Everything else is either ACC (accessory) or IGN circuit and require the key to be on.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul. I checked again and looks like I am not getting 12V all the time. I may have put the negative probe of the MM to the negative lead from the alternator which gave me a false reading. However, looks like the choke itself may be dysfunctional, as the arm behind the choke dial does not have a full range of motion, as it stops about half way. The spring behind the dial itself is situated to the far left, which is where the arm will not go, which is why it can't connect with the arm and engage the choke. I'll give Holley a shout.
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  5. #5
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    Try holding the throttle wide open and moving the choke control lever you mentioned.
    You really need to understand its operation to be able to adjust it.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    Try holding the throttle wide open and moving the choke control lever you mentioned.
    You really need to understand its operation to be able to adjust it.
    Agreed. If you just try to move the choke blade it may go 1/3 closed. Then, if you open the throttle, it will move to full closed.
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