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Thread: Clutch cable recommendations

  1. #1
    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    Clutch cable recommendations

    Went for a little drive this evening and all of a sudden the clutch pedal went to the floor. Broken cable. I have the MK4 complete kit with the Wilwood pedal box. Looking for recommendations for a replacement cable and part number. Thoughts greatly appreciated.
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

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    Ford OEM cable has the best reputation I’m aware of. Only thing I don’t know is if it works with the wilwood pedal box.

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    Call Mike Forte. I believe he still sells a 2 pack of Ford OEM cables for something like $50. We usually have a spare here in the shop for customer cars when they come here for service. And yes, it works with the Wilwood mechanical clutch pedal.

  4. #4
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The Ford cable often recommended, and one that I used on my Mk3 build now quite a few years ago, is the Ford Performance M-7553-C302 Adj. Clutch Cable. Quality piece. Still going strong.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    What Paul said!!
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

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    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I spoke with Mike Forte. 2 for $50 plus shipping. Looks like a good deal and it won't hurt to have a spare. Appreciate the comments.
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

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    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    For anyone else reading this, one important advantage to the Forte cable EdwardB mentioned is that it is adjustable at the clutch end. I finally installed one a couple of years ago, the adjustment was helpful, but the reduced effort has been the best advantage.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    For anyone else reading this, one important advantage to the Forte cable EdwardB mentioned is that it is adjustable at the clutch end. I finally installed one a couple of years ago, the adjustment was helpful, but the reduced effort has been the best advantage.
    Mike is selling the cables that are NOT adjustable, as stated in this email from him.
    "THESE ARE STOCK MUSTANG CABLES FROM THE M-7553-A302 KIT. THESE ARE NOT ADJUSTABLE"

  9. #9
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwleo View Post
    Mike is selling the cables that are NOT adjustable, as stated in this email from him.
    "THESE ARE STOCK MUSTANG CABLES FROM THE M-7553-A302 KIT. THESE ARE NOT ADJUSTABLE"
    Sorry, I guess things changed.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    I still have the clutch cable from my kit I didnt use. If you want it send me a PM and I'll send it to you.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Sorry, I guess things changed.
    Not really Craig. I believe Mike still sells the Ford Racing clutch cable with the adjustable end on it (I installed one last year on a customer car). The 2 pack that I referred to in my previous post is a deal Mike makes available and these are stock "Ford", not Ford Racing parts. Since almost all of us use a firewall adjuster the cable end adjuster doesn't do us much good and usually needs to be trimmed to fit inside the clutch arm cover.

  12. #12
    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    Looks like the rabbit hole opened up and I jumped in. Bought the cable from Mike Forte without the adjuster. Knowing that it would not work, I bought a Steeda firewall adjuster at CJ Pony Parts. installed it this evening and no success. With the adjuster turned all of the way out I have an inch of slack in the cable that I cannot get rid of. Either I am doing something wrong or I do not have the correct parts. I plan to call Mike tomorrow but in the meantime, any thoughts would be appreciated. Jim
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

  13. #13
    Tool Baron frankeeski's Avatar
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    How about a picture or two. I assume your cable from F5R worked and fit. The Ford cable should be the exact same length and fit as the F5R supplied cable.
    Frank
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    Senior Member tonywy's Avatar
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    I just changed my cable. I had it up on the lift in my garage and noticed it was starting to fray. I ordered the Ford Racing Cable and it work's perfect. I also have the firewall adjuster. I had to remove the black rubber piece at the top and you have to file the white plastic part at the top. I also removed the metal mounting bracket. The cable is adjustable at the bottom. So with the adjuster at the firewall and the cable end was able to dial it in no problem.

  15. #15
    Senior Member JIMOCO's Avatar
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    I followed the same steps as tonywy but the only difference is that my cable is not adjustable at the bottom. Attached are some pictures. The first is inside the foot well where you can see that the cable extends about an inch past the quadrant. The second is at the firewall with the adjuster nearly at its full extension. The last is at the fork end. If I were to extend the adjuster fully I still do not remove the slack enough to work let alone fine tune the adjustment.
    Resized_20190430_204114_2008.jpegResized_20190430_204122_4332.jpegResized_20190430_204157_2921.jpeg
    Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.

  16. #16
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    I have the "kit" cable with the adjuster at the clutch, ended up adding a spacer on the cable at the adjuster to get it to work. It was too long. You may have to adjust the clutch fork pivot position as well.
    And a note for any Gen 3 coupe builders a fire wall clutch adjuster does not fit, the top frame rail is in the way.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

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    Quote Originally Posted by JIMOCO View Post

    I followed the same steps as tonywy but the only difference is that my cable is not adjustable at the bottom. Attached are some pictures. The first is inside the foot well where you can see that the cable extends about an inch past the quadrant. The second is at the firewall with the adjuster nearly at its full extension. The last is at the fork end. If I were to extend the adjuster fully I still do not remove the slack enough to work let alone fine tune the adjustment.
    Forte sells a spacer very similar to this for use between the cable sheath and transmission which will solve that problem.

    s-l640.jpg

  18. #18
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    Forte sells a spacer very similar to this for use between the cable sheath and transmission which will solve that problem.

    s-l640.jpg
    Did not see it on his site. Any more info on it?
    Kevin
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    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    Did not see it on his site. Any more info on it?
    I couldn't find it listed on the site either - but I remember it used to be there (I strongly presume he still sells them).

    Check post #9 here (yes, from 2008 I know..): https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...-too-long.html


    I ended up reclocking my quadrant to fix mine (cut + weld), but the spacer would have been a lot easier.

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