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Thread: Pat’s Truck, back to the Turbo, see post 497

  1. #1
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Pat’s Truck, back to the Turbo, see post 497

    Hi Everyone:

    It is my great pleasure to log the first build post for my ‘35 Truck kit. For now my chosen engine and transmission combination is ‘top secret’ until I can confirm my belief that it isn’t too large, isn’t too heavy and doesn’t have ‘too much power’. As if such a thing exists! LOL

    For now, here (hopefully I’m able to upload them...) are a few photos of me picking it up at the US border on Saturday, April 13th.
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 06-20-2022 at 05:30 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    it seems my iPhone isn’t allowed to upload photos. I’ll put them on my laptop and upload another time.

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Pat,

    I upgraded your account. For help on embedding photos, see this thread:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts

    Congratulations on your new build!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  4. #4
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Here it is in my garage today. 0153AB29-9C39-4151-8F4D-2E52F3B67D49.jpeg

  8. #8
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Congrats!! Have fun building. Idk. There might be a sweet spot of 350-425hp
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

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    Ls7 505hp in mine and the power to weight seams just right.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Darned photos are still sideways, but, whatever I’ll figure it out eventually.

    A view of the current trial installation of my 440lb BBC (minus crank, rods, etc) but with Powerglide attached.

    Final location will be approximately + or - 1/2 to 1 inch from where it is now. (Up and/or towards rear of vehicle)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    I chose this engine as I’ve always admired the BBC and I have plenty of LSx and SBC/SBF experiences.

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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    The 1990 turbo LSx Mustang is my current ride, the 1968(?) Firebird is a friends car where my Dad and I did the machining for his used diesel blower and I built the carbs and ignition system.

  16. #16
    Senior Member ztoolman44's Avatar
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    There is something magical about a big block

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  18. #17
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Agreed! Hello from Calgary.

  19. #18
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Latest attempt...getting closer to final.
    Really liking the ‘normal’ direction the headers can now face. 7B08C96F-B2CE-4AF4-9970-8BE5CF4155F5.jpg

  20. #19
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Previous photo is of engine nicely centred
    Attached Images Attached Images

  22. #21
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Should be posting early photos of my mocked up turbo kit later tomorrow or Friday. :-)

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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Fitting of turbo is slowly getting closer, but there’s still a way to go. Downpipe shown. DD1A136E-CCDE-4C46-981F-C0D0CAD73945.jpg
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 05-11-2019 at 12:29 AM.

  26. #25
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    13F635E3-399F-4855-BC8B-F6C64A37036A.jpg

    A lot of things done but perhaps not looking like it in this photo.

    Taken by my buddy Joey yesterday afternoon.

    Currently in that mode of the e-brake affects...where I mount my PG shifter...which then might affect where I put the accelerator pedal...and so on and....

  27. #26
    herb fraser's Avatar
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    Looking good !

  28. #27
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    I haven’t posted in this part of the forum for quite a while. A busy summer with other things in life.
    7CE0E24B-5DDD-4856-9B18-622E2CFCD062.jpeg

    61B7432C-7886-4337-AA5F-9629A58673B2.jpeg

    Making nice progress with the box right now. I’m guessing there will be some disagreement with my methods, but I believe it’s going to turn out fine. The goal is to be able to remove the box in almost one chunk. Will make servicing and future modifications so much easier.
    Once the floor is out the rest of the box will come down at the rear and then straight back for removal.
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 10-01-2019 at 01:01 PM.

  29. #28
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good plan. Don’t worry about what anyone thinks ! It’s your gig
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

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  31. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    I haven’t posted in this part of the forum for quite a while. A busy summer with other things in life.
    7CE0E24B-5DDD-4856-9B18-622E2CFCD062.jpeg

    61B7432C-7886-4337-AA5F-9629A58673B2.jpeg

    Making nice progress with the box right now. I’m guessing there will be some disagreement with my methods, but I believe it’s going to turn out fine. The goal is to be able to remove the box in almost one chunk. Will make servicing and future modifications so much easier.
    Once the floor is out the rest of the box will come down at the rear and then straight back for removal.
    I was looking at same thing. Ended up going with side removal and making the rest one piece. Still in progress. Haven't figured out the back yet

  32. #30
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    My overall plan includes elevating the back of the truck about 1ft during removal. I will be trimming off the lips along the bottom of the box sides forward of the rear wheels to allow me to slide it back without too much flexing of the sides.
    The rear fenders and stake pockets should help support the box sides.


    Looking forward to seeing more photos of your approach!

  33. #31
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Seems like success, managed to remove the complete box on my own just by hand and not too much flexing. Need to trim the lips a bit more to make it easier.

    F4369C28-3AC3-4588-A056-AE8E0CAA6175.jpeg9BF2DF95-1DB7-4566-9841-A10B740A179E.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 10-03-2019 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Re orienting photos

  34. #32
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Finished the box today. Tried to move the stake pockets around so my pocket holder bolts would also work as box mounting bolts. The alignment didn’t work. So I’ve decided to glue the stale pockets on, drill holes through for box mounting bolts and then I’ll find paintable body plugs down the road.

    Already using the nice wood bed as an extra workbench...very handy.

    6661E3ED-7368-4563-B3FE-D01898F1806C.jpg

    67F4C314-4AAC-4937-A8E2-AB336D3179AD.jpg

    6A19BE42-F222-417B-8EF9-B22A91FC0CDB.jpg

  35. #33
    Senior Member ztoolman44's Avatar
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    Kinda diggin' the flatbed look. Nice work

  36. #34
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    We are going with full one piece bed. Will see soon if it will come off of chassis without issue.

    Zach

  37. #35
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Good luck, I hope it works out great!

    Was busy today on mine but not much would show up in a photo despite 7hrs in the shop...

    I know everyone on the forum can relate LOL

  38. #36
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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  39. #37
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    I just want to add a warning to anyone doing a wood bed.

    Based on my experience, do not use a water based varnish without additional preparations! It will pull the soft grain up and look awful unless you use a solvent based sanding sealer first. And then sand, and sand and...,

    I tried the water based varnish straight up on the underside of my wood bed and it was terrible. Very rough. It was a ‘Professional Outdoor Semi Gloss’ finish. Horribly rough despite sanding per the recommendations on the can.

    Thankfully being the underside I really don’t care very much.

    For the top side I switched to a good ol Solvent based (very smelly) finish and...voila! Perfect even with less sanding than before.
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 10-08-2019 at 02:48 PM.

  40. #38
    herb fraser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    I just want to add a warning to anyone doing a wood bed.

    Based on my experience, do not use a water based varnish without additional preparations! It will pull the soft grain up and look awful unless you use a solvent based sanding sealer first. And then sand, and sand and...,

    I tried the water based varnish straight up on the underside of my wood bed and it was terrible. Very rough. It was a ‘Professional Outdoor Semi Gloss’ finish. Horribly rough despite sanding per the recommendations on the can.

    Thankfully I tested it on the underside of the bed where I really don’t care very much.

    For the top side I switched to a good ol Solvent based (very smelly) finish and...voila! Perfect even with less sanding than before.
    Excellent advise , I never liked waterborne clear finishes

  41. #39
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    A great day to be in the garage, it’s the second week in a row we’ve had snow here.
    Installing brake lines today.
    21425DE8-16B1-4394-86CC-026631A77FC3.jpg

    9D7F32B4-B5E3-4F79-8BD5-6E9FAAC06AF9.jpeg
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    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 10-08-2019 at 02:46 PM.

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