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Thread: Pat’s Truck, back to the Turbo, see post 497

  1. #81
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    The transmission mount after rebuild
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 11-26-2019 at 07:16 PM.

  2. #82
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    8927C509-7773-4856-8795-CCF9C51A16BC.jpg

    Upload hopefully corrected now
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 11-26-2019 at 07:20 PM.

  3. #83
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Last failed one corrected

    4F810EC7-8AFA-41C2-9CE0-DFF532ADD7F3.jpg
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 11-26-2019 at 07:21 PM.

  4. #84
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    What does anyone think of my old school dimmer switch?

    B2749D08-D9A8-4D50-9EB9-0718C168E776.jpg

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  6. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    What does anyone think of my old school dimmer switch?

    B2749D08-D9A8-4D50-9EB9-0718C168E776.jpg
    Its sweet! I'm doing the same thing. What P/N did you use? I planned on doing that exact same thing but have not researched the correct P/N.

  7. #86
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Howdy Bruce:
    I purchased the OMIX-ADA Dimmer Switch 17233.02 from Summit. Next least expensive is the ACDelco Replacement Switch pn# 12338706 from them. You might find these cheaper elsewhere, but I had a Summit order coming anyways so the combined freight levelled the price for me.
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 11-27-2019 at 06:30 PM.

  8. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    Howdy Bruce:
    I purchased the OMIX-ADA Dimmer Switch 17233.02 from Summit. Next least expensive is the ACDelco Replacement Switch pn# 12338706 from them. You might find these cheaper elsewhere, but I had a Summit order coming anyways so the combined freight levelled the price for me.
    Thanks Pat. I'm going by Summit Friday so will pick one up while I'm there. Nice having them just 50 miles from me

  9. #88
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    I have that type of dimmer switch in my roadster, but a word of caution. One night coming home after dark, I went to switch to low beam, and everything went dark. Luckily I was only a few blocks from home.
    The wiring to the switch was easily disconnected by sloppy clutch engagement, or missing the dimmer a little bit, and hitting the wiring, and unplugging the switch. All lighting goes thru the switch and it gets real dark quickly.
    I used some zip-ties to firmly keep the wiring in the switch.
    Just sharing a little of my excitement.
    Ralph

  10. #89
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Hi Ralph:
    Appreciate the heads up!

    I cut my teeth on various trucks on our family farm in my youth, (1939 through 1972 varieties ) all with the same type of dimmer. Understand the potential issue.

    I will add a few ty-wraps per your suggestion.

    The other thing I would suggest to anyone else considering this option is a layer of insulation between the dimmer and the floor. The dimmer switch is ‘Hot’, and the floorboards are ground.
    Dead short if anything goes astray.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 11-29-2019 at 02:57 PM.

  11. #90
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Have my tail lights bolted on and both front fenders and running boards roughly in place...just clamped for now. Fibreglass is kind of weird for me to work with... seems I can shuffle positions 1/2” or more with relative ease. Last pickup I built was steel...around 35 years ago.
    This is going to be one of those measure 6x before drilling any holes deals.

    My “tomorrow work”!
    LOL

  12. #91
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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  13. #92
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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  15. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    Have my tail lights bolted on and both front fenders and running boards roughly in place...just clamped for now. Fibreglass is kind of weird for me to work with... seems I can shuffle positions 1/2” or more with relative ease. Last pickup I built was steel...around 35 years ago.
    This is going to be one of those measure 6x before drilling any holes deals.

    My “tomorrow work”!
    LOL
    I cant imagine! I just completed all the gaps and molding alignment on doors, hood, cowl and got everything taken apart for final block, seal, and paint. Cant imagine having to get all the fenders, side panels and the rest aligned as well!

    PS: Got my dimmer switch hooked up. Works great Ended up getting one that had an insulated connector housing with pigtail to connect. No worries about shorting. Little more expensive but came with carpet trim ring as well.

  16. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Landymore View Post
    Have my tail lights bolted on and both front fenders and running boards roughly in place...just clamped for now. Fibreglass is kind of weird for me to work with... seems I can shuffle positions 1/2” or more with relative ease. Last pickup I built was steel...around 35 years ago.
    This is going to be one of those measure 6x before drilling any holes deals.

    My “tomorrow work”!
    LOL
    I had to move my rear fender/running board further forward than manual specifies. My front tire would not center in wheel opening until I moved everything forward a bit.
    Maybe yours is different.

    Ralph

  17. #95
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input Ralph, I was already testing it a bit and wondering if that’s what I need to do.

    What kind of number did you use at the rear of cab to front of back fender?
    I’m at 12-1/2” now and looks like I need to decrease that to move things forward more...

  18. #96
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Nice find with your dimmer switch Bruce, did you get it at Summit?

    Re doors....I’m not looking forward to that particular test of my patience... LOL

  19. #97
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    Pat, think I used about a full inch forward. Can't remember or measure right now because everything is apart. Just tried to get the front wheel centered in opening as best as possible. The rear of my rear fender was even with the bed sides.
    I am in the middle of the door test of patience you mentioned.
    Ralph

  20. #98
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnelson View Post
    I cant imagine! I just completed all the gaps and molding alignment on doors, hood, cowl and got everything taken apart for final block, seal, and paint. Cant imagine having to get all the fenders, side panels and the rest aligned as well!

    PS: Got my dimmer switch hooked up. Works great Ended up getting one that had an insulated connector housing with pigtail to connect. No worries about shorting. Little more expensive but came with carpet trim ring as well.

    I have a Painless Dimmer (floor mount) Part # 80150. I checked it with my expensive Fluke meter and no shorts to the case from and of the connections.
    FFR 35 p/u # 0014
    I used to think I needed a Rolex watch, now I’d be happier with a Swedish K!

  21. #99
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Got behind the dash and started tidying up that mess today...it’s coming, but connecting my Holley Super Sniper, AFR Meter and electronic fuel pressure gauge will take up most of tomorrow before I’m done.

    The fuse between the two junction blocks is to protect the headlight circuit. There are two feeds going to the switch as delivered...one is fused and best I can tell the other isn’t. It is now


    685B8A47-6DE7-4391-B121-9AC018DBB4D2.jpeg
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 12-19-2019 at 12:24 AM.

  22. #100
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Ken, that’s great, Painless stuff is always really nice.

  23. #101
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Got quite a bit done the past few days. I think most everything is correctly connected, rebuilt my shifter mount and finally have the transmission tunnel fitting ok.


    39BE12E2-F919-45A5-97BB-D2F2E159DD6A.jpg

    FBDE2336-3588-4E5D-81CA-64A81DB76BA7.jpg

    59A84EAC-C84D-4530-A0F2-0A24314ACA6F.jpg

  24. #102
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    The interior is finally beginning to look like a real truck

    CA2A2804-3010-4FE3-B6C8-1DEFF8F976C9.jpg

  25. #103
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    And the drivers door process begins...



    E806DE94-F10D-41BE-BD03-FFE5FAD59D95.jpg

  26. #104
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Still working on fitment of the drivers door....

    On a happier note, have my A/F ratio, fuel pressure and antique boost gauge fitted now.

    The latter has been in every hot rod I’ve built in the last 35++ years... It’s actually a WW2 era manifold pressure gauge from an aircraft.

    EDEC28CC-1DF2-49AF-AA0A-EF06C544749E.jpg

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  28. #105
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Spent a chunk of today messing with the drivers door and very little progress.

    After checking various blog posts, I decided to gut the door and install just the hardware bare on the truck to find (one of...?) the source of my problems. Look at the difference between gap of upper and lower hinge to inner door mounting plate. Will require a significant shim on the inside of the door to rectify this.

    The rear plate is almost parallel without any tweaking.



    38F61331-13EB-4E30-8A20-6B766FAF44F1.jpg

    192A907E-EF0F-49E7-B488-929780D03D4D.jpg
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 12-28-2019 at 10:09 PM.

  29. #106
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Any suggestions?

  30. #107
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Hang in there it’s the most challenging part of the build. Rob
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  31. #108
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Thanks, I will.
    Suspect I will have learned to curse in Klingon by the time I’m done though!
    LOL

  32. #109
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Pm sent.
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  33. #110
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Got it, thanks!

  34. #111
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    I had to build up a lot on the inside of the door to get the inside metal brace to fit flush in the hinge area.
    Now, got the inner metal to fit inside the door, but having a lot of fun hanging the doors. I have elongated the support bracket holes in the part that bolts to the frame to get the doors to move further to the rear, but think I will have to work on them some more.
    Ralph

  35. #112
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Thanks for your reply Ralph. I’ve concluded I’ve also got to build my doors up on the inside, both to get the bracket to sit flat and they seem a bit thin there for supporting weight. I’ll post up how it goes.

    Will also post up photos of the complete inner door assembly bolted up to the truck. It’s quite helpful to see where the material needs to be placed.

  36. #113
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    Looking forward to seeing what you have come up with. This is one of several areas that concern me. Thanks for posting.

  37. #114
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    I’ll begin with the end product..the nicely fitting drivers door.



    7447A286-E042-4614-8CBC-F5A9B6AEB54F.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  38. #115
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    After struggles mentioned above, I assembled all my inner door guts on the truck to have a look see...

    B5FBA4BD-3C3C-4FCC-A1FF-042006A68BD3.jpg

    04CA1BC1-29FC-49CC-A375-4CA19E8A1FF5.jpg

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  40. #116
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    This is actually a cool trick IMHO as you can easily see how adjusting each different point affects the fit. Also please notice if you blow the photos up that the gap between the lower hinge is larger than the upper one...more so on the drivers side. Why? Could be how I’ve plopped my cab on, honestly don’t know.

    I messed with things til the door guts closed nicely all on their own and then marked them for reference.
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 12-30-2019 at 09:12 PM.

  41. #117
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    So I decided not only to fibreglass the inside of the door, but on the drivers side ( because it was quite thin) I fibreglassed in a 9 or 10” long chunk of 3/16” flat bar to support the lower hinge. It stops roughly half way up the door.
    The passenger side door was a little bit thicker so just used fibreglass. Will install it tomorrow.

    Drivers side..,
    0D7A097E-0041-4546-99C5-CECF3B2BDAF6.jpg


    Passenger side...

    8E0F82C8-2872-4AE8-BCF0-5B26E99B4E3A.jpg
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 12-30-2019 at 09:19 PM.

  42. #118
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    At the end of it all the drivers side door pretty much installed directly to the level in the first photo with no struggle other than a couple of trips with the jigsaw and a few more with the orbital sander.
    A big shout out to Tony at FFR this morning for his great support as I started this door stuff.
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 12-30-2019 at 09:21 PM.

  43. #119
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Passenger side door fitted today. More trimming and adjustment needed but it’s not looking bad. I figure a day and a half to two days each to get them finished the way I want them.

    DC02D743-1321-4C54-BDA7-65C0E36ADFA8.jpg

    The shims I’m trying between door and hinge...

    37AAB953-EC78-411E-8DE7-10A3A2D50DF8.jpg

    Battery is mounted available for testing power windows when they’re ready

    9D74F91D-0706-4B30-B353-31F8479409BE.jpg

  44. #120
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    Pat, I glassed up the area where the hinge fits on the door to keep pressure off door skin seam. Worked pretty well, and adds more strength. Still working on fit on mine.


    Ralph

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