Here I post again.
I noticed my clutch cable is fraying on the quadrant arm.
I haven't even gone karting yet, just been and out of the garage a dozen times. The quadrant doesn't seem to line up with the adjuster mounted on the footbox.
I cannot see an easy way to realign them.
Ideas?
Same as I posted in the other forum: Just an observation FWIW (maybe not too much) from someone who hasn't used that modified quadrant before. The edges of those cut pieces look really sharp. I've observed those kind of parts from FF, whether laser or plasma cut (not sure in this case), while extremely precise have very sharp edges. Maybe it would help to have a slightly rounded or chamfered edge on each side where the cable is being guided.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Long time ago someone recommended this technique. Remove the cable and adjuster. Find a socket that fits nicely in the sleeve the adjuster fit in. Add an extension to the socket. Push the end of the extension to 'adjust' the sleeve so the cable aims at the quadrant more accurately.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Long time ago someone recommended this technique. Remove the cable and adjuster. Find a socket that fits nicely in the sleeve the adjuster fit in. Add an extension to the socket. Push the end of the extension to 'adjust' the sleeve so the cable aims at the quadrant more accurately.
The problem is that the angle is the opposite. Can't bend the 'hole' for that angle.
Chamfer the plates as Edward said. Heck I polished the charmers on mine and aligned the cable so it falls directly in the middle. The edges are far to sharp and will wear the cable out as you are seeing.
Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.
There is another post where I am asking for recommendations regarding clutch cables. My original cable failed at the exact same spot. Since I am working on a completed car it is difficult to chamfer the edges. I took a rat tail file, put in in my drill and came through the firewall and smoothed off the edges. I had someone raise and lower the pedal so I could get to the entire path of the cable. If I ever get my replacement cable to work I will monitor how this plan worked.
Mk4 Roadster, Picked up complete kit 8/22/14. Most FFR options except Wilwood brakes and IRS. First start 11/11/14. Go-kart 3/8/15. 347 Stroker, TKO 500, 3-link/3.27 rear. PA street legal 7/29/15.
I don't know if you want to hear this or not but I ditched the cable and went with Mike Forte's hydraulic system. Super smooth, easy to install during the build and no cable to wear out.
Worth considering?
FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)
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Originally Posted by CraigS
