Also threw on the steering column, shafts and steering wheel. Most things fit great, the uppermost shaft seems a bit short. Where all of the other shafts are fully seated, the top one is about an inch short and I have to center it between the two u-joints. Might be able to play with that a bit on final assembly, just mocking up for now. Turns very smoothly with no binding at all. Definitely going to need stops installed, its a drift car right now till the tires contact the control arms.
That’s looking great Matt!
Noticed some very meaty tires in the background....
Do you have plans for NOS or Boost in your future?
��
Lol, those were on the truck when I bought it. It had a typical 80's hot rod set up. Camaro clip in the front with 14" rally wheels and those giant Craigers on the rear. I gave the old frame to a guy in town with a bunch of old cars for future trade but kept the rims. They are just too cool.original chassis resized.jpg
Very interested in adding boost down the road though. Just want to get it all together first.
Last edited by ztoolman44; 01-13-2021 at 06:56 PM.
Cobra brakes would be a nice upgrade. Find you a rebuild kit for the calipers and resurface or replace the rotors and you will be good to go. Make sure your wheels will clear the larger calipers, should not be a problem if running 17” or larger. Nice to see you progressing on the build!
Cobra brakes would be a nice upgrade. Find you a rebuild kit for the calipers and resurface or replace the rotors and you will be good to go. Make sure your wheels will clear the larger calipers, should not be a problem if running 17” or larger. Nice to see you progressing on the build!
That's my thoughts as well. I'm going to use the Cobra rims for now so no issues there. Thanks
I had the same issue with my upper steering shaft.
Partly because I’m paranoid, I drilled counter bores at each set screw location so they would truly bite well into the shaft, then Locktited them. Ended up purchasing bulk shaft material and making my own upper shaft so that everything felt correct in my mind.
I'm not sure on the brakes....but I can tell you that you are gonna have trouble with your pinion flange. I had the same one and it does not fit the driveshaft or driveshaft adapter. I had to order a 2009 GT500 pinion flange (6-bolt).
I had the same issue with my upper steering shaft.
Partly because I’m paranoid, I drilled counter bores at each set screw location so they would truly bite well into the shaft, then Locktited them. Ended up purchasing bulk shaft material and making my own upper shaft so that everything felt correct in my mind.
Yeah, it makes it to the set screws but I am not comfortable with that. My plan was to make a longer shaft.
I'm not sure on the brakes....but I can tell you that you are gonna have trouble with your pinion flange. I had the same one and it does not fit the driveshaft or driveshaft adapter. I had to order a 2009 GT500 pinion flange (6-bolt).
Agreed. My plan is to change the pinion flange to a u-joint and get rid of all the adapter stuff. Since I am modifying the driveshaft anyway, might as well just put a proper end on there. Thanks.
Decided to go with the Cobra brakes in the front. Rebuild kit with pistons for ~$25. If anyone needs some brand new GT stuff that comes with the FFR kit, let me know. Rotors, calipers, brackets- willing to make a someone a sweet deal. LOL
Did you apply any heat to them? I am wondering because I am getting into cerakote and anodizing and the end process is heat.
Just curious....
I considered doing a hot process but decided with suspension and brakes it would be safer to try a cold process. Essentially just bluing like you would with a gun.
Received the parts to rebuild the front calipers. Went with the VHT paint system and had zero issues. Lots of prep plus the appropriate "baking" process and it seems to be holding well and looks great. Time will tell.
One question tho...isn’t that a gas oven in your photos?
I’d be concerned that a gas oven plus paint fumes flashing off is a nice invitation for a visit from Mr. Ka Boom!! LOL ��
Sure you had that all under control.., ������
Cheers,
Pat
Lol, yeah I did do some soul searching first but the firefighter in me concluded that there shouldn't be a difference in a gas or electric oven in regard to the flammability of the off gassing so why not give it a go. If the paint is safe to bake at a given temperature is must not be anywhere near reaching the flash point of the vapors so why would it matter if the heat is generated by fire or induction? Not sure if the flames have a temp higher than the element during the heat up portion but I got the oven to temp first then put the items in there.
Now the smell in the house when the wife got home had me more worried.
Been quietly working away in the shop when I have a minute here and there. No wild build here, just trying to be budget conscious so only repair what is broken or obviously worn. Trying very hard to stop project creep, you know the ol', "while I'm this far, might as well do this or that". Getting ready to marry the engine and trans and get them in so I can start on the body. Needed those in for fabrication of the big items like firewall, floors, trans tunnel etc. I'll get most of the fab work done before plumbing and wiring anything but did not want to mock up with a bunch of dirty bits.
A few more glamour shots. Will be installing the new clutch and putting them in the car when I get home next week. Hope to get the drive shaft modified as well then on to the body mods and get this thing looking like a truck.
Only one small issue and that is the passenger side header hits the motor mount bracket. Could be resolved with a BFH but I am hoping the community has some words of wisdom or alternative part options. I want to keep this on budget but am not entirely convinced that a dented header is the best way to proceed.
Brand new motor mounts and everything else lines up so I am not able to wiggle the engine to one side or the other. It is where it is. The trans is sitting on a new trans mount and everything appears to be at the correct level in relation to the chassis. I tried flipping the trans cross member and it just made thing all out of whack so I believe it is installed correctly.
The supplied kit adapter did not fit the 2014 rear end or the 1994 drive shaft so after looking at options I decided to just get rid of the whole lot and bought a new yoke. Much cleaner and cheaper than trying to cobble a bunch of parts together. Time to send the driveshaft off to be shortened.
Heading back to work for a few weeks but it is almost time to start forming some metal and making this thing into a truck.
Only one small issue and that is the passenger side header hits the motor mount bracket. Could be resolved with a BFH but I am hoping the community has some words of wisdom or alternative part options. I want to keep this on budget but am not entirely convinced that a dented header is the best way to proceed.
MotorTrend has a series called Engine Masters where they did exactly that. They dyno the engine then used a BFH to dent a header tube then measured the HP/torque again. IIRC it was only down 2 HP or less.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
Saw that episode and feel like it is a viable option, just not an attractive one. Hoping for someone to tell me that there are some other factory manifolds or inexpensive headers.
Before I cut out the floor and firewall of the cab and then section it, I need to lock in the door openings. Overall the length from firewall to back of cab is pretty close however I will need to widen the entire thing by almost a foot. I am using the chassis as a table to have the cab at a convenient work height.
Last edited by Higgybulin; 02-16-2022 at 01:56 PM.
MK4 #11012 picked up 04/16/24
351W, 3 link, single roll bar
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
I had the same driveshaft issue. I bought a new pinion flange.
I just cut the whole piece out. I'll fab up a new drive shaft hoop later.
Edit- I thought you were talking about the spot where the driveshaft hit the cross member. On the rear end I changed to a 1330 style pinion yoke and had my drive shaft rebuilt to fit. Got rid off all the weird Ford stuff.
Last edited by ztoolman44; 02-16-2022 at 06:44 PM.
When you say widen by a foot…are you talking about the entire cab?��
Or do you just need to reshape the bottom to clear the FFR frame rails?
All in all, major kudos for taking on the version of the project I now wish I had!
It’s looking great ����
Widen by a foot is just what it sounds like. The truck cab is much narrower than the chassis, especially at the firewall (around 12 inches). I will need to stretch the distance between the A-pillars about eight inches or so. The rear of the cab is not as drastic, maybe 2 inches. Distance from the firewall to the back of the cab is pretty close. It appears as though FFR squared up the cab and started the angle to the grill at the A-pillar. The original cab is kind of wedge shaped from back of cab all the way to the grill.
In order to lock in the door dimensions, I need to install the rockers. In order to install the rockers, I need to install the doors. Well, the hinges are over 80 years old and needed some love before they would give consistent gaps. They did not want to come out without a fight though.
Turns out the doors were just as wonky as the hinges. Tried to get the big dents and twists out so that the hinges slide in without binding and the frames fit the door openings the best I can. No more oil canning so I must be on the right track.
I'll tackle the small dents and fill holes down the road. Plenty of welding to come.
Lol, yeah I did do some soul searching first but the firefighter in me concluded that there shouldn't be a difference in a gas or electric oven in regard to the flammability of the off gassing so why not give it a go. If the paint is safe to bake at a given temperature is must not be anywhere near reaching the flash point of the vapors so why would it matter if the heat is generated by fire or induction? Not sure if the flames have a temp higher than the element during the heat up portion but I got the oven to temp first then put the items in there.
Now the smell in the house when the wife got home had me more worried.
I was regularly baking paint in a previous lifetime and had the same concerns. Looked for and found an electric countertop oven for $15 at a yard sale. Worked great and the wife is happy, too.
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Originally Posted by Pat Landymore
