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Senior Member
Sane banjo bolt torque specs?
Does anyone else think that the banjo bolt torque specs are ridiculously high for the complete kit stock brakes? I was afraid I was going to strip the front brake calipers while doing it and I completely buggered a crush washer (not the way it's supposed to deform).
Anyone else have a sane torque spec they use? Or does 29 lb/ft seem reasonable? I know 29 lb/ft is pretty low all considered, but it does not feel right for this.
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Senior Member
I’ve been working on “stuff” for a little over 40 years, and I’m not saying it’s right but I’ve never used an actual torque wrench for banjo fittings on brakes, or power steering either for that matter. Just a wrench and my hand saying “yep that’s good” lol. Never had a leak. But I have seen on here that a few guys have broken banjo fittings off with a torque wrench.
Just my 2˘ FWIW...
Be careful....
Kurt
If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....
Build thread
MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18
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Senior Member
yeahthat.gif
Same situation, turning wrenches for 40+... A light smear of fluid from your fingers on the parts, get it pointed in the direction you want, and then snug it down with an extra "tweak". You're dealing with a bolt that's 90% hollow, with a thin wall thickness.
FFR and their suppliers have to publish torque values for fasteners (read that "Lawyer"). The engineering types will argue, but IMO it doesn't supersede common mechanical horse-sense.
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
Use new copper washers. Copper work hardens so each time you compress the washer it is going to conform less and the risk of leaks increases. With new washers you should be able to seat the bolt and go something like a quarter turn to compress the washer and get a good seal.
Mike............
FFR2100 - 331 with KB supercharger - T5 - 5 link rear 3.08's and T2 Torsen.
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Originally Posted by
Mike N
Use new copper washers. Copper work hardens so each time you compress the washer it is going to conform less and the risk of leaks increases. With new washers you should be able to seat the bolt and go something like a quarter turn to compress the washer and get a good seal.
If new crush washers aren't available, you can anneal the copper ones with a burns torch. Heat up until orange & allow to cool slowly. It works.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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Senior Member
Yep he’s right. Omg seeing the word anneal instantly took me back the 8th grade metal shop! I learned and retained so much actual useful stuff from shop classes. I still have a tray on our kitchen counter from an 8th grade project. Talk about work hardening lol If you didn’t anneal it after beating it to death with a ball peen hammer to get the finish it would have just broken when trying to bend it. Ahhh the practical things you Lear’s as a kid...
1A497C7B-29C4-4F78-88A2-FC2460104616.jpg
If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....
Build thread
MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18
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Senior Member
Thanks all. I had already ordered some copper crush washers to replace the one I buggered and so I'll be going with that all around. And thanks for the confidence to go by feel— I never considered that it was for CYA/legal purposes and just assumed they knew best.
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Yeah, I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on anything like that, just not that critical.