side louvers

[feadam]

what do you guys use to hold louvers in, silicone?

[BadAsp427]

Here is a very solid way to do them.. Now this is for the preassembled ones, I'm sure you could do something very similar for the basic ones.

[Fixit]

Another thread to fuel the synapses... similar in nature, other than I fabbed my own "stud-plates", and used panel bonding adhesive instead of HSRV.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Silicone will work well for the "bend 'em yourself" variety. So well in fact that if they ever have to be removed they will be wasted.

Jeff

[BadAsp427]

Silicone will work well for the "bend 'em yourself" variety. So well in fact that if they ever have to be removed they will be wasted.

Jeff

Well there you have it from the best...

[GoDadGo]

Silicone will work well for the "bend 'em yourself" variety. So well in fact that if they ever have to be removed they will be wasted.

Jeff

I'll be using silicone plus my 383 emblems poke through them and screw down with those old funky emblem nuts.
https://youtu.be/uLmHEoWTEHg

If you need some assistance then this video may help if you plan to use the Bend-Em-Your-Self louvers.
https://youtu.be/QyMN73IW6I8

[feadam]

have the pre-assembled ones

[Itchief]

I used 3M permanent mounting tape from Lowe’s for about $6 you can also use it to mount the emblems

But be careful once you press it in place it’s not coming off without a fight

Rick

[BB767]

Commercial type velcro.

[Bob Cowan]

I used Velcro. Rock solid when in place, never came loose in 12 years of driving and racing. But, easy to remove when you want to work on the car - headers, master cylinder, wiring, etc.

[DavidW]

Here is a very solid way to do them.. Now this is for the reassembled ones, I'm sure you could do something very similar for the basic ones.

This method has my vote except I welded the "L" bracket to the assembled louvers so bolt heads weren't seen in between.

[Jeff Kleiner]

For the assembled louvers from FFR and ********** (they are identical, right down to the box they come in ) you'll need to start by massaging the factory cutouts to match the size and angle.



With that done I attach a piece of 1" angle along the top of the louver with 2 rivets (the rivets will only be visible if you're laying on the ground looking up into the opening!). The vertical side of the angle gets a 3/8" hole:

louver1.jpg

louver2.jpg

The inside of the body gets a similar 1" angle about 1/8" below the bottom of the louver opening. Above the opening I bond 1/4-20 elevator bolt which registers with the hole in the angle attached to the top of the louver. Both get bonded with HSRF:

louver3.jpg

Looking from the outside you see that this creates a "shelf" for the louver assembly to rest on:

louver4.jpg

When it's time to install them into the body I lay a bead of silicone across the "shelf" and sink the louver into it while rotating it into position with the bonded stud coming through the top hole. Silicone secures the bottom and washer & nut hold the top.

All done!



Cheers,
Jeff

[feadam]

thanks think ill try that method

[Grande]

Hey Jeff, I can’t see these pics except for top one, anyway to repost them? Or is it something on my end , 2 laptops same issue. Would need the pics along with the perfect details. Thanks

[boat737]

Hey Jeff, I can’t see these pics except for top one, anyway to repost them? Or is it something on my end , 2 laptops same issue. Would need the pics along with the perfect details. Thanks

Same here, just one pic, other's are no-show.

And yes, the FFR cutouts need to be "massaged" to get the angles correct to what ever set of fins you have.

As for my assembled mounting, I used the Edwardb stud method. Mounted them with HSRF, and a piece of fiberglas over them just in case...

[Grande]

omg,thats nice of you, thanks, now I can see. Great..pics are worth 1000 words. THanks Boat.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Hey Jeff, I can’t see these pics except for top one, anyway to repost them? Or is it something on my end , 2 laptops same issue. Would need the pics along with the perfect details. Thanks

Edited and reposted the pics. Click on the smaller images in the body of the reply and they'll expand.

Hope that helps!

Jeff

[j.miller]

Silicone. Silicone the brackets to the louvers the night before on a flat surface. Make sure the body is clean or undercoated and silicone the louvers in place putting a bead of silicone on the top edge of the top bracket and the bottom edge of the bottom bracket. Tape in place from behind and leave over night. Check after 20min to make sure they haven't shifted . ..da Bat

[Darren]

You guys that are using silicone...is it just the box store clear shower and tub caulk or something different? I was wondering how that would hold up to the heat in there but if that is what people are using I'm willing to give it a shot.

[GoDadGo]

I'll be using a Marine Grade Clear silicone when I start the reassembly process in addition to my 383 emblem pins.

Why Marine Grade, well it is because I'm from the Swamp Lands of Louisiana have a boat hording issue and am always sealing something.

I think any high quality silicone will work.

[boat737]

For the badges and emblems, I used both of these. So far, so good.

[Darren]

I'm trying to find something that will have sufficient strength if I apply it now so by this afternoon about 5:00pm I can drive I have a local "support local businesses" cruise tonight and hate the look of the car without the louvers installed. It is a temporary installation until I get a chance to take the body off and do it permanently. Hoping the silicone will hold with only 8 or 9 hours dry/cure time.

[Avalanche325]

For right now....Heavy duty adhesive backed velcro from Home Depot. It will hold up for quite a while.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm trying to find something that will have sufficient strength if I apply it now so by this afternoon about 5:00pm I can drive I have a local "support local businesses" cruise tonight and hate the look of the car without the louvers installed. It is a temporary installation until I get a chance to take the body off and do it permanently. Hoping the silicone will hold with only 8 or 9 hours dry/cure time.

Gorilla tape or HVAC foil tape. When you’re ready to make it permanent plain ol’ GE Silicone II.

Jeff

[Darren]

Thanks! I'll give it a go!

[Darren]

I ended up doing silicone but not a huge amount. Just enough to keep the tabs adhered and it appears to have cured enough for driving already. Nice and solid. I figure I can just take a razor blade between the body and the tabs to remove them and then remove the silicone with remover and grinding for my final solution later on.