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Thread: Pedal Box Setup for Hydraulic Clutch

  1. #1
    Member jeffhelms56's Avatar
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    Pedal Box Setup for Hydraulic Clutch

    I’m about ready to start on the pedal box and wanted to post a few questions to the group.

    The build manual says that for automatic transmissions and hydraulic clutch installs that some of the steps are omitted. Unfortunately, it doesn’t say which ones.

    I’m planning to go with the Forte hydraulic clutch and understand that the clutch cable quadrant doesn’t get installed during the pedal box build up for obvious reasons. So, the questions are:

    1. Is omission of the cable quadrant the only modification to the pedal box build-up?
    2. Does there still need to a clutch pedal stop incorporated?

    Thanks...Jeff
    MK4 complete kit w/powder coated chassis, FFR power steering, 3-link solid Moser rear end w/ cast aluminum cover, low-back vintage racing seats, BluePrint 306 Carb, hydraulic clutch, CNC triple reservoir, Breeze radiator mounts and fan shroud, Metco drive loop, Derale PS cooler, CF dash.

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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    1. Is omission of the cable quadrant the only modification to the pedal box build-up?
    2. Does there still need to a clutch pedal stop incorporated?
    1. I'm going to say yes.
    2. I'm going to say no.

    I don't have Forte's set up but I do have a hydraulic clutch with no pedal stop.

  3. #3
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    My impression is that whether or not a clutch pedal stop is needed on a hydraulic setup is dependent on the specific hydraulics. I've read that some hydraulic throwout bearings require a stop or they over extend, some do not. Best to ask Forte.... or perhaps someone who has used it can provide a definitive answer.
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  4. #4
    Member jeffhelms56's Avatar
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    Thanks Gents. I’ll be talking to Mike for sure.
    MK4 complete kit w/powder coated chassis, FFR power steering, 3-link solid Moser rear end w/ cast aluminum cover, low-back vintage racing seats, BluePrint 306 Carb, hydraulic clutch, CNC triple reservoir, Breeze radiator mounts and fan shroud, Metco drive loop, Derale PS cooler, CF dash.

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    1. Yes, leave out the FFR supplied cable clutch quadrant and install the clutch master cylinder in the provided Wilwood location. You will no longer need the hole in the footbox front for the cable. Some choose to install a filler panel. Others (like me) use it for the hoses from the fluid reservoirs. And speaking of that, you'll need to add a reservoir. Forte doesn't include that in his kit.

    2. It depends. If the master cylinder / slave cylinder combination causes the slave to drive beyond its rated travel before the pedal hits the floor, you'll want to install a pedal stop. Hasn't happened to me, but I've heard of guys pushing the slave until the piston came out. You can imagine what a mess that would make. Or you can go down a size on the master cylinder and turn that extra throw into slightly less pedal effort.
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  6. #6
    Member jeffhelms56's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul. I have the CNC triple reservoir in hand and am looking at the hose routing as you point out.
    I appreciate the info on the pedal stop.

    Jeff
    MK4 complete kit w/powder coated chassis, FFR power steering, 3-link solid Moser rear end w/ cast aluminum cover, low-back vintage racing seats, BluePrint 306 Carb, hydraulic clutch, CNC triple reservoir, Breeze radiator mounts and fan shroud, Metco drive loop, Derale PS cooler, CF dash.

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