This is a compilation of Joe Leone's forum posts, blog entry and some more info he e-mailed us. Joe concentrated on getting the cooling system as close to stock as I could, because the tech guys at Ford Racing said it was not a good idea to plug off any ports. Unlike older systems that simply used the thermostat to shut off water flow, the newer systems use the thermostat to bypass the radiator if the engine gets below optimum temp. There is always water flowing through the heads and block, even when stone cold, so it’s mandatory that the heater hose ports be cross connected. Joe chose to use the factory hoses to provide a spot in the rear of the engine for the FFR temp gauge sender.

This is 2011 Mustang GT cooling circuits from the shop manual

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Heater Hoses

These hoses have the correct ends to mount directly on the Coyote stubs, and are shaped to fit under the engine cover.

Right side hose.......BR3Z-18472-B
Right side bracket...BR3Z-8A082-A
Left side Hose.........BR3Z-18472-D
Left side bracket.....BR3Z=8A082-B

If you don't use a heater, you should still use these hoses so you can cross connect them at the rear and install a tee for your temp gauge sender. The water flow will help keep the head temp consistent when the thermostat is closed. The brackets are optional but provide a neat way to manage the hoses.

Upper Radiator Hose

Unless Ford releases the end connector separately (or FRPP ships it with the motor), you'll need the upper hose just to have the end that connects to the plastic connector on the thermostat bypass housing.

Part number.....BR3Z-8260-B

I modified the upper hose like this:

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I took 5.5" out of the section upstream of the first 90 degree bend in the hose (save the piece you cut out). I bought a 1.5" 45 degree mandrel bend from Race Parts Solutions and cut about 2.5" from each end of that (save the pieces again). I then used the hose cutoff (about 2.5" of it) to connect the 45 to the radiator inlet and then used one of the cutoffs from the 45 to reconnect the hose where it was cut. The fancy clamps are a little too "in my face", so I might replace the pair at the splice with Gates Powergrip heatshrink clamps.

Lower Radiator Hose

Yes, folks, the 1023 hose really works...you just have to do a little "convincing". Here's the unmolested 1023 hose (that I bought 6 years ago for my MK 2 but couldn't make it work).

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The orange lines are where I want to cut it. The dimensions are approximate and not critical.

Here's the orientation before it was cut, but the hashmarks were applied during the mockup stage

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Here's the same area but after I twisted the hose about 10 degrees (with a 1.5" aluminum sleeve inside)

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The other cut is very similar. No reversing the pieces or swapping the ends. Just a few degrees of twist is all it takes. Here's the "before" orientation

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Here's the finished product ready for clamps.

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The hose fits the Coyote inlet fitting perfectly, and snakes down through the space between the rack and the X-member. Right where it passes through, I intend to add a rubber sleeve because it might sag and touch when there's water in it. Other than that, there's no need to tie it down (or up). It clears the steering shaft, the frame tow hook and everything in between.

Recovery Tank

The stock Ford recovery tank fits just fine in the space between the radiator and engine on the right side. This tank is NOT the 2011 GT version, which is $80 wholesale, but the more generic 2000-2009 4.6 tank ($40). The difference is that one of the upper ports is missing, but the tube that's supposed to go there can be tee'd into the small line from the upper radiator. The part number for this one is 4R3Z*8A080*AA, and the stock cap is 9C3Z*8101*B ($8).

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The only ports on the engine that I’m not using are two front and one rear vacuum ports. All the stock cooling ports are being used and are connected up identically to the stock configuration.