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Thread: Coolair247 33 Build Thread

  1. #1
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    Coolair247 33 Build Thread

    Took delivery March 28th. Finally was able to get started a couple of days in August. Parts painted, supplies and parts lad out ready for install.
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    Last edited by coolair247; 08-30-2018 at 03:19 PM.

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    Congratulations, that is one awesome garage you have

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    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolair247 View Post
    Took delivery March 28th. Finally was able to get started a couple of days in August. Parts painted, supplies and parts lad out ready for install.
    That is a nice shop! You know with all of us Texans building 33's I'd like to see Factory Five make an appearance at the Good Guys Show in September .
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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    Not sure my shop compares to your Dallas star JOP33 but thanks for the comment! I managed to get a little work done this past weekend!
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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    image003.jpg

    Looks like you have a nice area staked out for the build. Something you might want to consider is building a chassis / body dolly as it makes assembly so much easier. Attached is a photo of mine but it doesn't have to be made of metal -- a sturdy one can be fabricated from wood.

    Have fun with your build.

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    Making progress a little at a time. I just have the foot box and firewall clamped on, have not fitted or trimmed. I can tell they are hitting the welds in a few places and not laying flat against frame. The rear end brackets are not centered in the upper a arms, they do move freely and do not hit. I did have to grind the inside bracket so it did not hit rear end. So far I think all is ok unless anyone see's a problem.
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    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolair247 View Post
    Making progress a little at a time. I just have the foot box and firewall clamped on, have not fitted or trimmed. I can tell they are hitting the welds in a few places and not laying flat against frame. The rear end brackets are not centered in the upper a arms, they do move freely and do not hit. I did have to grind the inside bracket so it did not hit rear end. So far I think all is ok unless anyone see's a problem.
    Only thing I see is the foot box. I think that since you have a later model car the boot box is designed to be bolted on under the frame and not on top of it. There are some clearance issues if you put it on top.

    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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    TD, I had read on another post that the newer kits were made to be mounted on top. It stated that FFR had confirmed this. I tried it on bottom and if memory is correct I could not mount the master cylinders. I will confirm before moving on. Thanks for the input!

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    Hey Coolair Just a quick question, did the upper control arms for the rear end come with the notches cut in them to clear the ears on the rear or did you cut them in?

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    They came cut from FFR.

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    Made it back to the shop after several months spent on a construction project. Had to relocate the brake fluid reservoir due to not looking ahead in the book- hood pins go into firewall. Have an extra hole or two to do something with. It seems relocating items that I seem to see a better spot for is not the smart thing to do. I have tried to follow install book and at times that does not make since. Looking forward!
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    A few more pictures. Where do the clips install on the brake calipers shown in the picture. Let me know if anyone has any concerns. Thanks - Tim
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolair247 View Post
    Where do the clips install on the brake calipers shown in the picture.
    The clips are installed at the ends of the carrier bracket. The brake pad ears ride on them.
    Here's a pic I found on line.
    image.jpg
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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    Thanks for the info and picture. I had them like that and the clips just do not fit well, they do not stay snapped in place. I will give it another try!

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    Did you have the pads in? That's what keeps the clips locked in place.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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    No sir I did not, I expected the clips to stay in place without the pads like the front calipers I guess. After you sent the picture I came to the conclusion that the pads must hold them. Thanks for the help!!

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    Coolair247 33 Build Thread

    Making some progress! Finally got the clips to fit in the brake calipers - not a fan! It looks like most are using the recommended battery in the manual. Any one used a different one?
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    I did Not use the recommended battery. Going with Optima battery in Truck and in a creative burst, turned the normal battery area into a "glove box" with a little bit of aluminum sheet. I also have the F5 brakes up front and just got wheels and tires on.... Was told the brakes will look Real small between spokes.... Yep, but if they will stop a 3000 lb Mustang, hope they will do same for a 2400 lb hot rod... Can always change them later if I am disappointed.

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  23. #19
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    I didn't like the recommended battery location so I built a battery box just below the trunk floor with a cover.
    Batteries don't last forever and changing it when installed in the factory location looks like it would be a PITA job.

    DSCN2534.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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    first pic 5811

    Quote Originally Posted by coolair247 View Post
    Making some progress! Finally got the clips to fit in the brake calipers - not a fan! It looks like most are using the recommended battery in the manual. Any one used a different one?
    what is that in front of the coil overs

  26. #21
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    Horns

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    JimLev, do you have a picture of how you framed the under side of battery box? I looked on your post's but could not find what's holding the battery up. Thanks

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    I do but we're on vacation in AZ and UT, back this coming weekend. Will post more when we return.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  29. #24
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    Here ya go Coolair.
    The base of the box sits on 2 pieces of angle aluminum that are screwed to the frame.
    The 4 sides are attached to the base.

    DSCN2530.JPG

    DSCN2542.JPG

    DSCN2543.JPG

    DSCN2544.JPG

    DSCN2545.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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    The grate thing about these cars is the different ways to do things.IMG_8037.JPGIMG_8044.JPG
    Do not cut off top posts, it kills battery!

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  32. #26
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    Coolair247 Build Thread

    Got a little work done this weekend! Have not worked on car all summer plus some!

    Need recommendations for shifter and headers- TCI 700R4 trans. Looking at tail mount - 383 SBC from blueprint-
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