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Thread: Jason's 33 HotRod #1142 - Kingwood Texas

  1. #41
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael101 View Post
    Question for the team. Iím curious to know if my engine side panel/nose cone alignment is consistent with what you guys have done. Itís hard to see in these photos but Iíve run a yellow string along the door body mounding out to the grille. If you zoom in you can see that the side panel/nose cone has a rear to front rise. I have the radiator assembly set up on the top upper control arm bolt per the manual. I also have the radiator tilting about as far forward as it will go.

    Attachment 109532
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    Attachment 109535
    Don't set your side panels until the hood and under grill lip are fitted and aligned. Once that is done then work on the side panels. I see you have the Gen 2 version so I would expect the alignment to the Hood will be better. In the Gen 1 version, based on how much rake you put on the front grill, you may need to trim the side panels. I placed as much rake as possible on it and needed to cut a slice out of the side panels. Get the grill in and work your hood, then work the sides. Work to what you like best and then adjust from there.
    You can see what I had encountered in my build thread (Black & Copper) but here are a couple pics of the side panel modification I ended up doing due to the pronounced angle of the grill.
    20180808_205818.jpg 20180808_205809.jpg 20180808_202337.jpg 20180808_205756.jpg
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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  3. #42
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    I also had to take a pie shape wedge out of the side covers after I set the grill and hood. Must be a common issue.

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    OK that's making me feel a bit better...Thanks guys.

    I had initially done as AJT suggest, set the grille at the angle that I want then fitted the hood. But when I moved to the nose cone it wasn't even close to being aligned with the grille, it's way short. I'll set it back up that way and add photos for future builders since the manual is a bit of a 'no man's land' when it comes to side panels and nose cone.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

  5. #44
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    The body fitment isn't covered at all at the build school either which is too bad because in the end it seems it is the most difficult part.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  6. #45
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    “I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.”
    ― Thomas A. Edison

    So following what I thought was the process according to the manual...

    Step 1: Fit the hood to the grille and firewall. That’s what I did first but it turns out I should have started with the nose cone pieces. I read that fact somewhere and should have paid attention. What I did was fit my hood with the grille leaned as far back as possible, read that somewhere also and it sounded cool so I did it. Seems that adding length to the front of the nose cone pieces would be an easy task but in reality it would really throw the relationship between nose cone and suspension parts way out of whack. So since I fit the hood with the grille laid back but have now figured out that this might not be the way, looks like I’ll be doing some hood addition this weekend to correct my gaps .
    4B7B6BAE-539D-409B-B727-DF2AC2868ACC.jpeg

    Step 2: Fit the nose cone. The manual provides no usable content for this part of the work. Some of the photos are still Gen. 1, they should have just left this part out and indicated that it was being modified. On top of that, the two halves are not cut to the same length on the front, not off by much but still, WHY? So I’ll end up adding to both sides and making the tie between the two parts. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nothing major and not a show stopper...but again, WHY?
    17C7ABA8-A634-4DA7-9719-AA0C0C7AAD00.jpeg
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    38107AAC-3EC5-48EA-A53A-F6B64619082E.jpeg
    16A87793-5578-4A58-91EE-EA07A94D281B.jpeg

    Step 3: Install side panels. Man these are really nice pieces...THAT DON’T FIT! Likely the only left/right pieces that actually match and I’ll be hacking them up to make them fit...ugh

    Again, I know this isn’t anything compared to what the Gen. 1 folks have faced so I hate to b!tch. But man this is $10k and it’s just shoddy work. I have a replacement door on the way because it was basically trimmed wrong. The nose cone pieces aren’t cut the same. Side panels don’t fit...I can tell you that my a$$ would be unemployed if I produced product like this at work.

    Where’s my beer assistant! ��
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  8. #46
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    Anyone with the gen2 hotrod with the 32 deluxe nose get the vented engine side covers? I was told just the prototype car got them, they never made production.

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    My driver ended up using a parking lot up the street, we put the kit and boxes on my brother in laws flatbed and hauled it to the house. Worked well.

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    I saw a laughable post on FB today with someone stating that the average FF builder spends about 250 hours to complete one of these cars. I mean, I know Iím not quite as energetic as I was in my younger years but Iím thinking Iíll be at this for a few more than that 250 mark. Hell, Iíve probably spent more than 10% of that time just staring at the car trying to figure out what Iíll do next!

    Made a decision on my hood/grille angle/nose cone situation finally. It was a weird puzzle because basically none of the parts fit together as they are. The nose cone leads to one grille angle, if you choose to fit the hood first thatís a different grille angle, and side panels fit neither scenario. Regardless of the path Iíll be doing quite a bit of glass work to get the front body parts installed.

    With my setup Iím extending the glass of the nose cone and side panel pieces, plus Iíll be cutting the side panels in half horizontally and bonding them back together ( not there yet).

    My hood is rough fitted with the firewall and grille where I want it but did a quick check with the hood hinge and see Iíve got another challenge on my Ďto-doí list
    9C98F84E-77F5-4D44-BE05-C980A6AC8CA2.jpeg

    Iím working to get the nose cone in place and extended. Interesting thing here, there doesnít appear to be any mid-point attachment of the sides to the frame. Seems like this would be flimsy with only a rear and front grille attachment points especially considering that the side panel weight basically rest on these pieces. I made some mid point attachments although Iím not sure this is what Iíll end up with ultimately.
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    18B204EA-52B6-4185-B3E2-34AB07AC18F5.jpeg

    Also decided that I needed a better frame cart with bigger wheels so that I can roll this thing outside on sunny days to let the fiberglass cure. Didnít realize that this needed to happen but learned it here on the forum so thanks guys.
    1E193748-AB43-4F9C-8465-29D2EC67B9B7.jpeg

    Iím guessing that Ď250 hourí build statement doesnít include all of the Ďotherí things required. Letís see, with my 25 plus hours of dumbfounded looking at it, another 10 or so counting parts, 10 building a Ďbody partsí and Ďbodyí cart , about 20 trying to get the messed up driver door to fit plus another 10 at least with the replacement drive door, then thereís the 30+ working on the front bodywork...man Iím staged to set a new record!

    Joking aside, Iím loviní every minute of it though. I didnít want or expect a standard bolt together piece that would look just like every other 33 out there.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  12. #49
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    Radiator mounting

    So with the Gen 2, there are two mounting holes for the suspension but I think the radiator should use the upper mount and the hot rod suspension use the lower mounts to get a bit more ride height with fenders. Any thoughts?
    67CF9800-27A1-436D-B815-9C83E23FD1F5.jpeg
    - Peter

    Peterh226. #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Delivered 4/14/2019.

  13. #50
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Could I ask a favor and get a couple of pics of how the radiator mounts to the frame?
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19

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  14. #51
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    Radiator mounting so far

    Hereís some better pics. Any comments welcome as to whether this looks right.
    4EED4BCB-AE1F-4C20-ACA1-0A8F34F0FEAB.jpgD710B02F-A16C-456C-BDC4-76432BFAD3B2.jpg
    I put a spacer bolt as a temporary way to raise the rad up a bit. Then a piece of foam to space and protect it from the frame.
    - Peter

    Peterh226. #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Delivered 4/14/2019.

  15. #52
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Thank you. Only 2 points of contact with frame?

    My POL indicates I’m missing some mounting brackets....
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19

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  16. #53
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    Yeah, I was scratching my head a bit on the mounting as well. Couldn't remember from the Build School what the mounting looked like. The nose cone will help keep it forward I guess.
    I was wondering if I used the top upper control arm holes and the bottom lower control arm hole if that would be a good solution.
    Are you running A/C? The extra brackets and spacers are entertaining to install.
    What bracket Part Number are you missing? I don't have my hood hinges yet.
    - Peter

    Peterh226. #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Delivered 4/14/2019.

  17. #54
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterh226 View Post
    Yeah, I was scratching my head a bit on the mounting as well. Couldn't remember from the Build School what the mounting looked like. The nose cone will help keep it forward I guess.
    I was wondering if I used the top upper control arm holes and the bottom lower control arm hole if that would be a good solution.
    Are you running A/C? The extra brackets and spacers are entertaining to install.
    What bracket Part Number are you missing? I don't have my hood hinges yet.
    Im missing 34777. I have the 32 deluxe grill and it seems evident that the radiator is different, the mounting is different and I can’t figure out how.
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19

    MkI.IV 2643k

  18. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterh226 View Post
    Yeah, I was scratching my head a bit on the mounting as well. Couldn't remember from the Build School what the mounting looked like. The nose cone will help keep it forward I guess.
    I was wondering if I used the top upper control arm holes and the bottom lower control arm hole if that would be a good solution.
    Hey Peter. Iím going off of what I found on page 36 of the manual where it indicates using the upper mounting locations. My pics show the grille angled back quite a bit but this is my final mounting location.

    169E71B7-B48E-4CEA-95D0-10C33EED291F.jpg
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    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

  19. #56
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    I’m not a bodywork expert by any definition and I’m undoubtedly taking more time than someone with experience would. I am stubborn and determined though!

    I have my nosecone about 90% complete, took me a loooong time to land on a plan, then even longer to do what I needed. I ended up extending the front of the nose cone quite a bit using multiple layers of fiber and resin. It’s still rough but I’ll have it knocked out soon.
    38440A7A-0437-4DF0-9B22-D296D13BDAED.jpg
    I just couldn’t get comfortable with the idea of only attaching the nosecone at the grille up front and then at the body in the rear. To start with, the grille/radiator mounting isn’t all that rigid. It’s rigid enough sitting still but with road vibrations and the pot holes in my area I just think it’s bound to move around a bit. It looks like the Gen 1 had a mounting point on one of the lower control arm tabs. I went with that idea and fabricated a couple of plates, feeling much better about the rigidity of the nosecone side panels now.
    E96930B6-5476-4D4C-9140-E0E7AEB4D7B1.jpeg
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    Needing a break from the saga, I took a little time to do some engine work. It’s slowly coming together.
    E40D1D4A-1501-4BFB-8D38-DE18BD2C3BAB.jpeg
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    Also took some time to give the Chevelle a bath.
    C9B51A74-7394-44FA-A450-3517961F827B.jpeg
    Back to bodywork..
    With the side panels being nowhere close to fitting (Thanks FF!) I decided to start with cutting a 3” strip from the top of each panel. After truing the bottom lip of the hood and setting it in place I was able to test fit the 3” slat and get it mounted.
    41EA471A-BA57-40F3-A57E-5600700C2E57.jpeg
    742AA25A-C49A-4382-9389-B83510F6F2CC.jpeg
    Last edited by Michael101; 07-07-2019 at 07:46 AM.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  21. #57
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    Thereís a lot of interference with the rear sides of the hood and the attachment point of the side panels. Button head screws are a no-go so I did some counter sink treatment and installed machine screws. Even with that and relieving the inside of the hood the interference is substantial. Iím not sure what my plan is yet to get this sorted out.
    D23810E6-74D5-44C0-9E1F-966DD8E4FF57.jpeg
    39F2D84E-3B37-437E-A7EE-151DDB4464B2.jpeg
    I know that I donít want complete coverage of the sides but wasnít sure where this was headed. Iím liking how this is shaping up so far though. Seeing the upper side panel pieces in place has given me an idea of how I want the front end to look. Iím going to experiment with only adding enough of the side panel forward section so as to cover up the radiator area.
    EDBAA41F-7C7A-4FAC-A512-12F6A5A59F4C.jpeg
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    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  23. #58
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Jason, if you haven't already, I'd talked talk to FFR about that interference. This part of Gen 2 seems half baked....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    Side Panel Progress

    Originally Iíd thought that I might want to go with the side panels as delivered-fully enclosed, but maybe remove them from time to time for a different look. But now Iíve decided to make some mods to the panels that would give me the open look around the engine while hiding the congestion around the radiator and front suspension.

    I started by cutting the panels horizontally as I needed to fit my radiator / hood alignment anyway.
    F6AB42A0-042C-465F-98C5-E35E1834EF25.jpeg

    I made several cardboard templates to find a design that looked right for me, the made the arc cut in the lower half of each panel followed by bonding the top and bottom together using glass matte and resin.
    F6D0016F-976C-4759-B025-D73BE48C0D3A.jpeg
    43BF61E0-4C80-4898-9C29-711C989832EA.jpeg

    I wanted the arc to look like it belonged there so I recycled the lip from the back half of the side panels and bonded that to the trailing edge. I still have a lot of finish work to do but Iím happy with where Iím headed.
    AE8C183D-4AB1-4418-BC46-C40C0A07F768.jpeg
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    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  26. #60
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael101 View Post
    Thereís a lot of interference with the rear sides of the hood and the attachment point of the side panels. Button head screws are a no-go so I did some counter sink treatment and installed machine screws. Even with that and relieving the inside of the hood the interference is substantial. Iím not sure what my plan is yet to get this sorted out.
    D23810E6-74D5-44C0-9E1F-966DD8E4FF57.jpeg
    I actually did not use that lip to attach my side panel in the end, since my theme allowed me to have exposed fasteners that look like rivets I opted to simply add two fasteners through the panel when installed. If they are not there, the button head fasteners are still installed like a rivet
    20190419_194316.jpg You can just see them in the picture, just two of them.

    Your doing the body setup the RIGHT WAY, which will pay dividends later. I would set it up as you have if or when I do another one! KEEP IT UP!!
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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    You know what, I’ve been eyeballing that area and thinking that I want to do it differently. Thanks for the idea AJT.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  30. #62
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    More Front End

    Man Iím really looking forward to getting past my front body work. My wife is asking what in the world Iív been working on, ďlooks just like it did a month agoĒ she says, thanks for the ego check woman!

    Iím basically done with the nose cone and side panels, gaps are mostly where I want and Iím happy with the way theyíre bolted in place.
    D2B143BA-D698-4D7E-9994-00E445A7950C.jpeg

    Looking for help/ideas for hood latching. The Gen 2 comes with a single cable operated bear claw that mounts in the upper center of the firewall. Iím hoping to keep the firewall area as clean as possible so this setup isnít going to work for me. Looks like a big metallic zit and would look more obtrusive with the cable routed to it. Iím looking for alternate options that would latch on the driver and passenger side in the area that I have circled below. Another reason for my wanting to do dual side latches is that I think itíll be easier to get the rear corners of the hood to line up with the body. As it is now, my pass side tends to pop up while the driver side is too low. The central latch configuration doesnít offer any help with this situation.
    482D8525-ABF9-42FD-9DCA-9E5B88458A2F.jpg
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    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

  31. #63
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Front end is looking great Jason!
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    I am thinking of designing and printing a cover for this. There is a lot of stuff that needs to go on the firewall anyway. Reservoirs, A/C, fuel pressure, etc. I think I can make something that will be a nice cover and fit in with the other stuff. My latch and hinge was POL but should arrive this week. Once I come up with something, it will be easy to provide to anyone that wants one.
    - Peter

    Peterh226. #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Delivered 4/14/2019.

  33. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterh226 View Post
    I am thinking of designing and printing a cover for this. There is a lot of stuff that needs to go on the firewall anyway. Reservoirs, A/C, fuel pressure, etc. I think I can make something that will be a nice cover and fit in with the other stuff. My latch and hinge was POL but should arrive this week. Once I come up with something, it will be easy to provide to anyone that wants one.
    Definitely looking for ideas Peter, Thanks!
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

  34. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael101 View Post
    Wow that is bad.... I don't think the manifold on my 4.6 will clear the bearclaw! What if you used something like a QuickLatch or AeroLatch - one on each side. (sorry on my phone, not posting pics/links right now)
    -- Mike --
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    TxM Garage

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    I feel like Iíve almost reach a milestone! Heavy on the Ďalmostí though. At this point I have all of the body panels fitted and gapped plus 90% sanded/scuffed in preparation for the first coat of House of Kolor KD3000 Surfacer/Sealer.
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    Iím in the process of taking everything apart AGAIN 😳 so that I can get every surface covered inside and out. Then itís put it all back together AGAIN to get final alignment bodywork done. Man Iíve this thing together and apart more times than I can count, thank goodness itís all light weight and easy to get too!

    Iím curious as to what you guys think should happen with the top of the doors. Iím thinking that I need to fill in this offset? I really have trouble understanding why itís there in the first place.
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    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  37. #68
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael101 View Post
    I feel like Iíve almost reach a milestone! Heavy on the Ďalmostí though. At this point I have all of the body panels fitted and gapped plus 90% sanded/scuffed in preparation for the first coat of House of Kolor KD3000 Surfacer/Sealer.
    BAE3D67A-B520-43F8-B91F-FB49D62FC6B7.jpeg
    165346EA-0D23-43FF-9F50-1209A7A1F0D1.jpeg
    84F0360E-4525-43BC-B31C-CFFDB6CB84CF.jpeg

    Iím in the process of taking everything apart AGAIN 😳 so that I can get every surface covered inside and out. Then itís put it all back together AGAIN to get final alignment bodywork done. Man Iíve this thing together and apart more times than I can count, thank goodness itís all light weight and easy to get too!

    Iím curious as to what you guys think should happen with the top of the doors. Iím thinking that I need to fill in this offset? I really have trouble understanding why itís there in the first place.
    811D283A-4639-4231-9BE0-65BE37CB2357.jpeg
    C267BDCD-B10D-4D53-8890-70932422617A.jpeg
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    I used the HOK paint system as well and used the SP1600 Polyester Primer before the KD3000 on a recommendation by HOK, boy I am glad I did. I would HIGHLY recommend that once you are confident you are pretty close to having your panels faired properly, apply the SP1600 and then sand down again with a longboard block sander. I guarantee that you will find all kinds of high and low areas. When I first laid down the SP1600 I thought it would be a quick sand and then apply the KD3000, what a surprise, I ended up applying a second coat of SP1600, got the panels smooth and got all those micro pinholes out that re-appeared after I broke though the SP1600. I would make 100% sure that you have an even coat of SP1600 without breakthroughs before you go to the KD3000, I guarantee it will save you tons of sanding and touch ups due to micro pits and pinholes that are inherent in the fiberglass body that you don't see. My build blog shows the progress this too, here is what the body looked like after the first sanding.
    20190407_103726.jpgBefore
    20190413_140550.jpgJust After
    We ended up removing virtually 80% of the first coats of primer, when we did the second coat the sanding was easier and then after the application of the KD3000, the sanding was to even out the surface to remove as much of the sand marks as possible. Just an FYI.
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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    Thanks Andreas. I think I’ll take that advise! Would you happen to remember what sandpaper grit you used at each stage?
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
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  39. #70
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael101 View Post
    Thanks Andreas. I think Iíll take that advise! Would you happen to remember what sandpaper grit you used at each stage?
    - For the Gelcoat/fillers, sand to an even 180 grit (dry) finish then apply the three coats of SP1600 (Follow the technical instructions from HOK)

    - For the SP1600, for the first sanding, sand with 180-220 grit using dry paper overall

    - For the 2nd SP1600 coat, once cured, sand with 320 grit dry paper then you should be good for the KD3000 (try not burning through the SP1600 if at all possible, not an issue if you do however, the KD3000 will seal it up). This is the best opportunity to fix any blemishes and any leftover pinholes.

    - For the KD3000 coat, once sprayed (you will be doing three coats, again follow the HOK technical instructions) and cured, sand with 400 to 600 grit wet max (I used 600 wet), don't sand any finer or you risk not getting the adhesion that you need for the base coat (some say you can do 800 but the pro's don't go more than 600). If you burn through the KD3000, you should do spot touch ups and do a recoat of the part then resand. Again, even coverage is important for when you apply the base coat next. You must have an even layer of KD3000 applied without any burn through to the SP1600

    - Once you have the KD3000 evenly applied and sanded, your ready for the base coat of color. When your at this stage you need to remember that you need to apply the clear within 24 hours after applying the base coat, any longer and your sanding and re-applying the base coat, then applying the clear. I applied 3 coats of the black base coat as my final color is black (use a tack cloth between the layers to keep any dust or particles from the color coat, do this when the base coat is properly dry at each stage). It's important to apply a base close to your final color, this ensures the greatest depth of color. There is NO sanding of the color basecoat! (as before always follow the technical instructions from HOK for mixing and coat drying durations)

    - Once the base coat is applied and has dried to the proper level, your ready to apply the clear right after, I used the ShowKlear and applied three coats. Make sure that you have the cleanest booth possible to alleviate any dust or particles getting on the surface. We "lightly" wiped with a good quality tack cloth between each coat of the base coat. You don't use any tack cloths when applying the clears. I sanded my clear after, however if I do it again I would do a base sand to 1500 and then apply a flow coat, this would save time later.

    If I could recommend you use Norton dry sandpaper (its blue in color), I tried using other brands and the ONLY one that sanded consistently and did not clog up was that from Norton. I used their "dry ice" brand, it is more expensive than all the other sandpapers, however, I actually ended up using less paper and the level of finish and the evenness of the surface when sanding was far superior. If you use the stuff from the local hardware store you will be cursing the paper and the surface your sanding (I found that out right away with the first sanding)

    Have fun and do your research on the HOK technical docs site and you'll be fine. I went to the Nth degree and wet sanded my ShowKlear with 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000 and we are polishing it right now. A lot of people say no more than 3000, I agree, however I decided to go that extra step, not everyone will do that. here is a picture of the dash polished, not finished, so you can see the potential, the reflection is the wall about 20ft beyond.
    20190903_212141.jpg 20190903_212134.jpg
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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  41. #71
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    Bodywork Continues

    So two weeks ago I 'thought' that I was 90% ready to start shooting primer but Ö.

    Heeding the excellent advice given by AJT I decided to add HOK SP1600 primer to my routine. My original plan was to only use the HOK KD3000 as it's advertised to be 'Direct to Substrate' and useable as sealer or heavy build primer. I though maybe the KD was the upgrade to SP1600 but that's not the case. I ended up calling HOK to get a better idea as to how and when I should use the SP and KD products. As a side note, the HOK customer service seems to be excellent. I've called several times over the last few weeks and seem to get a different person each time but they are all extremely knowledgeable of their products and the painting process overall. I actually called one time and didn't get through to anyone, no answer and I didn't leave a message figuring I'd try again at another time. Less than five minutes later my phone rang with a number that I didn't recognize, turned out to be one of the HOK techs calling me back.

    Following the HOK guys advice I went back after the body a bit more aggressively than I had originally planned. My first go was with 220 grit and more or less aimed at sufficiently scuffing the gel coat in preparation for primer. HOK guy suggested that I get after it a little more and try to block out as much of the waviness as I can ahead of starting with the primer so that's what I've been doing the last two weeks. Thankfully, again from reading AJT's recommendations, I had already purchased some of the Norton Dry Ice in 180 grit and holy cow he's right, that stuff is fantastic! What a time saver...thanks AJT! The Norton product cuts much faster than the Dura-Gold product and hardly clogs at all. I've since ordered the other Norton grits that I'll need as I move forward.

    Something else that I've been meaning to add as useful info for those that will be tackling their own bodywork. Make sure to do a very thorough investigation of every body seam. You'll notice opaque areas along the seams after you've sanded the area flat. I first started with a small wire brush and pic but could see right away that this area needed a far more aggressive approach. So I ended up going at the seams with my Dremel and a small carbide tip. It was shocking to see how many of those areas that I thought were solid from using the pic and brush simply popped right off with a touch of the Dremel. I found some nasty craters, especially on the lower post of my hard top. Better to find this stuff now and fix it than have one pop after paint.

    Another step change that may be useful, or maybe it's a no-brainer and it just took me a while to figure out. I now have my shop vac turned on and next to me while I'm sanding and use it to pick up as much dust as possible. I'd started out just blowing off everything with an air hose but man what a mess that ends up making. I have dust EVERYWHERE in my garage and it drives me nuts!
    IMG_2152.jpg
    IMG_2147.jpg

    The cheesy tail lights that FF sent with the kit have been bugging me since I first saw them. I know that I want to go a different route but I'm not sure what it will be yet. I went ahead and got rid of the tail light buckets though.
    IMG_2174.jpg

    The firewall-to-body seam is taking me a while to straighten out. On the top center I had almost a 1/8" dip when putting a straight edge from front to back. I also had to rebuild the body molding line (half round) on the pass side to adjust it upwards about 1/4".
    IMG_2175.jpg
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  43. #72
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Glad to hear that things are working out, the effort you put in now will pay off later when it comes to the finishing work!!!

    Taking note of your dust problem, what I did is place two 24" square floor fans on opposite sides of my shop (up off the floor) and placed a cheap furnace filter in front of them where they draw the air, and let them run on medium while I worked and left them on low after. They circulate the air in the shop and pick up a ton of dust, they don't get all of it but it substantially reduces the amount in the shop. Just a suggestion and an inexpensive way to create an air filtration system.
    20190326_200903.jpg You can see one of mine in the middle of this picture at the top, above the hard top, I hung it off a clothes hanger from the garage door rails.
    20180822_221109.jpg I did a lot of work on the top of where the firewall is as well, I would suggest that you get your hood on (if your using one) so you can get that fired to it as well.

    Again... HAVE FUN SANDING!!!!

    PS. I know its harder to do, but STAY AWAY from those orbital or DA sanders!!!
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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    "PS. I know its harder to do, but STAY AWAY from those orbital or DA sanders!!! " Ö You're right about that AJT, tempting sometimes to grab the DA but this is all hand blocking. At least I can stop feeling bad about skipping the gym, plenty of exercise to be had with sandpaper in hand!

    I'm hoping to figure out a good looking flush mount exterior door handle set up. I think a C5 handle would look good but I'm not sure if there is enough clearance on the inside once the window is installed. Thinking I'll do the window install after I get the first round of primer done and then figure out if this handle set-up will work.
    IMG_2181.jpg

    I'm also experimenting with the tail lights and kinda like the '70 Mavrick/Pinto setup. Whatever I end up with I'll likely be using Digi-tails LED lights because they are very bright and very noticeable.
    IMG_2234.jpg

    Earlier in my thread I'd mentioned that I had alignment issues with the FF hood hinge setup. I ended up making these wedges to get proper alignment, so far they're working well.
    IMG_2193.jpg
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  46. #74
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    I would suggest that once the final sanding (just before final rimers and then to paint) with all the parts on the car and you are happy with all the alignments, AND before you disassemble any of the critical components that are reliant on alignments with each other or the body, such as the hood, trunk, door latch, door strike, plates to the grill to name a few. I would suggest you add at least a pair of alignment pins (I used simple 1/8" spring pins) to each of the parts that I wanted in exactly the same place. As an example, on the hood I added spring pins to the plates that were bolted to the fiberglass. I drilled them randomly on the pate such that I could not place a left plate on the right side. This ensured that the car goes right back together with the same alignment and gaps as it was in when I set it up. Just a suggestion, here are a couple of pics of what I had done as an example.
    20190414_152355.jpg Bracket that was on the hood
    20190202_093910.jpg Front latch bracket of the hood
    20190202_093949.jpg Hood to firewall pin and plate (note: I did not take the pin off before I painted the plate and pin to maintain the alignment)

    Any bracket that had pins or bolts in them I did not remove to maintain the alignment as noted above, that included the strike pin for the door.

    Have fun!!
    Andreas
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

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  48. #75
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    That makes a ton of sense AJT. I'd thought about doing that on the door hinge assembly but dismissed it just before this recent disassembly because of laziness. Hadn't thought about it on those brackets but I am now. I think I'll make sure to do it like you're suggesting to hopefully help with final alignment and save me from scratching paint...and throwing a fit.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
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    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    How on earth did you get your doors to look So good? Gaps and panel blend is excellent. What was the trick to aligning all the brackets inside?
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19

    MkI.IV 2643k

  50. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethmark View Post
    How on earth did you get your doors to look So good? Gaps and panel blend is excellent. What was the trick to aligning all the brackets inside?
    I spent more hours than I can count messing with the doors. I bet I had them on and off 20+ times for each side. The hinge assembly is extremely adjustable, which is great, but man it’s hard to nail down the final install. I’m looking to come up with a better way to hold the hinge arm in place on the door frame. You’ll find that regardless of how tight you get the bolts, it’s still likely to wiggle around a bit. I’ll probably do as AJT suggest and pin those areas.

    Things get a bit easier once you establish the striker bolt location.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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    I took advantage of fantastic weather conditions today and shot primer on some of the car. My new Fuji sprayer did well with the SP1600. It also produced very little overspray.
    B7B7E3FC-3556-4DC5-91C2-EE038003512C.jpeg
    3EF808DE-784B-46D0-84F4-9639257A30F0.jpeg
    D4A0A528-5BFC-4783-8EA0-236D3A97B4BE.jpeg
    8B9F9234-E826-4042-9F8F-F708087D538F.jpeg
    42CF42D4-02FC-431E-B590-18CE5426E33D.jpeg

    FACT CHECK: House of Kolor claims that the SP1600 provides excellent adhesion.
    FACT CHECK STATUS: Verified! I had my spray area covered in visqueen so no issues there. But the area where I did my mixing wasnít covered. Tracking the spray residue into the mixing area resulted in my needing to pry my dang shoe loose from the floor. Ended up pulling up the shop floor epoxy! Excellent adhesion for sure!
    0E98CC1E-446A-4ABE-A1DB-44B6D5FA9E29.jpeg
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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  53. #79
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    I have been following your build, I am just down the road in Houston and planning to start a ‘35 truck build in 2020.
    Looks great! Did you have to upsize the air cap in the new spray rig to handle the SP 1600?

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    Thanks McGuyver!

    I used a 1.8 tip for the SP1600. That stuff is super think like liquid body filler. It shot ‘ok’, a couple of areas could have come out smoother.
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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