Jason's 33 HotRod #1142 - Kingwood Texas

[Michael101]

Made some mods to my exhaust route in the rear. I couldn’t fit the 2.5” through the same area as the FF exhaust but found what I think is a suitable spot. I don’t think I’ll have interference with the lower A-arm, that would only happen with a very compressed suspension. If I do I’ll just have to rethink it once again. I’ll add the final pieces with tips once the body is in place.
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[FF33rod]

Looking good! I'd be a bit apprehensive about that routing on the exhaust. I guess the true test is car on the ground with proper ride height and then see what the margin is. Routing over the IRS center section that the manual calls for didn't work for me so I went outside like you but above the upper control arm. You don't have enough room for that? IMG_2851a.jpg

Steve

[AJT '33]

I also routed it over the top, this is the end result sitting on the ground to alleviate and interference.
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[Michael101]

Thanks for the photos guys

[Michael101]

I wouldn't have thought that installing the go-pedal would warrant much discussion. That is, until I installed mine. I spent way more time messing with this thing than I'd thought so I'm adding this info to my thread thinking that it may help someone down the road.

First off, there's always discussion about pedal placement in relation to the brake/clutch pedals and many on here have added spacers to get them inline. I did the same using a piece of 1" tubing. I added a threaded tab on the side of my bracket just in case I need to add a pedal stop at some time.

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My fuse box placement along with the use of an interior mounting panel gave me a small challenge when routing the throttle cable. Getting around the fuse panel wasn't that big of a deal but drilling through the mounting panel/firewall without being able to see the firewall frame did cause me a bit of trouble. I'm saying this to point out that I wish I'd addressed the throttle cable install much sooner in my build progression, at least I should have mocked it up before adding the interior panel.

End result worked out great though with my throttle pedal being almost even with the brake/clutch. I feel like I have adequate room too between the pedal and trans tunnel.

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[Michael101]

After much deliberation I decided to install the battery in the trunk. I'd originally planned to install this hidden beneath the fuel tank but decided that this install will be better suited for easy maintenance while on a road trip. I'll end up building a fiberglass box around it just to make it look a little better.

I welded a ground stud to the frame just below the battery location for the battery ground and ground distribution throughout the car.

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[Michael101]

Earlier in my build thread I’d mentioned that my CVF bracket was a no-go with our chassis configuration. I had a chat with CVF at that time and found that they unfortunately did not have a setup that would work with our cars. Also at that time I was well beyond their advertised return window since I’d ordered this setup very early in my build process.

The issue is with the lower passenger side of the CVF bracket where the belt tensioner would go. The bracket hits the frame and there’s just no way that the auto adjust belt tensioner would go in that spot without cutting the frame support.

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I spent quite a bit of time thinking about what I should do. The Acc drive is one of the bigger cost items for our builds so I really didn’t want to buy a second setup. And I knew that trying to sell the kit would likely only get about half of my money back IF it even sold. I may have been able to work something out with CVF but this isn’t their fault and at the time everything had just shut down because of COVID, so that didn’t feel right.

I’ve had an idea of how to make this work from the beginning but it required cutting up this great looking bracket so I took some time to think it over first. It really helped that CVF sent me a replacement for the original bracket which was missing some of the finish machining, I was able to experiment with the bad original then make the final cuts on the good bracket.

I finally went for it this past weekend and I’m feeling really good about the result.
I would have preferred to have an auto belt tensioner but that wasn’t doable so I settled for a manual tensioner. Like everything else on these cars, it’s cramped and will be a challenge to adjust later, but I’m feeling lucky to have what I have.

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[sread]

looks like it should work great - and I have to say I think that is the fanciest tap handle I have ever seen...

[ken33]

i would agree on the tap handle lol

[shmelty]

Jason,

What intake are you running? Any issues with space for the dual snipers?

[Michael101]

Jason,

What intake are you running? Any issues with space for the dual snipers?

I have the Edelbrock #7585 intake. Spacing for the dual snipers doesn't seem to be a problem but I haven't had the hood on since installing the engine. I did have issues with distributor fitment though. I tried MSD first but the cap was too big. What I have now is the Holley Sniper distributor (shoulda done that first anyway) #510-556-302BK.

[Michael101]

Finished my fuel lines yesterday. I'm realizing now that I'm not very far from being able to start this puppy up!

I need to find a good place to mount the vent line filter. There's plenty of space directly beneath the fuel tank, but I'm thinking that it needs to be in an area that will not trap the fuel fumes?

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[Michael101]

Everything is ready for start, just waiting on radiator hoses from Mike.

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[JOP33]

Very clean build! Looks awesome!

[JimLev]

I see you have Tim’s bump steer parts. Have you set it up yet?
Do you remember how much of the threads you had to cut off?
I still need to install mine.

[Michael101]

Hey Jim
I haven’t set the bump steer up completely, it’s semi close as it sits. I cut off several inches. It’s an easy install and the parts from Tim are excellent.

[sethmark]

On the second gen car, any bump steer correction is unnecessary. Tie rod ends are parallel and travel with the suspension links without compromise.

[JimLev]

IIRC I’m pretty sure NAZ had mentioned just because they are parallel doesn’t mean you won’t have bump steer. Correct me if I’m wrong.
I haven’t installed mine yet, been working on installing the power windows.

[sethmark]

Certainly there’s more to it than just parallel. But the long and short of it is that in order to avoid bump steer, the tie rods and suspension have to remain equal lengths throughout the range of motion. In essence, as a suspension moves through it’s range of travel everything shortens at the same rate.

Since we moved, my car lives at Virginia international raceway. I don’t have parking for the house..... It’s been picked apart ruthlessly by some fairly name brand race car guys, plus was corner balanced by one of the prep shops. Perhaps the set up is just right now, but I just drove it 50 miles and it definitely does not bump steer in corners.

[Michael101]

OK....so I cheated

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[TxMike64]

OK....so I cheated

NICE! Makes for a neat clean installation. I can't justify the cost for something that rarely gets used in my daily drivers, and would nearly never get used in an automatic hotrod weekend cruiser. But both our dailies have electric parking brakes and they're nice to have.

[RoadRacer]

Wow super clean, and you really did change all the exhaust system routing even under the car! I ended up wrapping my mufflers in two layers and the ends too, and it sure made a difference in the heat. I'm also wrapping the joints with some leftover strips.

[Michael101]

I ended up wrapping my mufflers in two layers and the ends too, and it sure made a difference in the heat.

I think I'm going to re-do the muffler insulation like you're talking about. I have to send my headers off to Jethot anyway so I'll be making a few exhaust changes.

[Michael101]

Current Status...I spent a couple of months just focusing on body prep and now have almost everything ready for paint. I’m working through a few details with the defrost vents, gas cap, and tail lights. I thought it would be a neat idea to have this stuff flush mounted.

I’ve been procrastinating on ordering the wheels but I think it’s time to get past that and move on. The wheel thing has been the most difficult decision for me. There’s a lot of info on here about sizes and backspacing but no definitive ‘do this’ . Like everyone else I want the fattest I can get without interference. Plus I’ve really been debating on the color combo, trying to decide if I should match my powder coating or just go with polished finish. Right now I’m thinking full red finish with 18x9/5.5 BS up front and 18x10/5.5 BS rear. I may go ahead and pull the trigger this week.

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[McGuyver]

Jason, looks great. Good to see the post and progress.

[Michael101]

So at the last minute I (my wife) decided I should switch from my planned HOK paint scheme and go with Satin Black. Now that it's done, I'm loving the way the black blends with the red so good call. Another thing, I haven't painted a car in probably 20 years and had totally forgotten how much of a task it is just to shoot the paint, especially with these cars having so many individual parts. Shooting four coats of the satin left me absolutely exhausted, if I'd have gone the original HOK route I'd have shot nine coats...I think I'd have passed out before finishing

From the beginning I've wanted to go with black but have just a hint of red hidden in the paint. Something that makes a person do a double take and wonder if they're seeing something other than black. I used Custom Shop Chassis Satin Black and blended in a small amount of red garnet micro-pearls directly into the paint. Pearls are typically suspended over a base coat using a carrier coat, that way the pearls really show up. But in my case I didn't shoot a base/clear, and I didn't really want the pearl to jump out. Everything worked out like I'd hoped, only under direct sunlight can you see the red, and it kind of disappears when you try to look for it.

I have to say, in spite of all of my b!tching and whining while doing body fitment, I really enjoyed the challenge. I started off as a fiberglass novice about a year ago, and now I'm still a fiberglass novice, but with probably 350 hours of experience. I've gained a ton of knowledge. Good stuff.

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[HotrodMike]

So at the last minute I (my wife) decided I should switch from my planned HOK paint scheme and go with Satin Black. Now that it's done, I'm loving the way the black blends with the red so good call. Another thing, I haven't painted a car in probably 20 years and had totally forgotten how much of a task it is just to shoot the paint, especially with these cars having so many individual parts. Shooting four coats of the satin left me absolutely exhausted, if I'd have gone the original HOK route I'd have shot nine coats...I think I'd have passed out before finishing

From the beginning I've wanted to go with black but have just a hint of red hidden in the paint. Something that makes a person do a double take and wonder if they're seeing something other than black. I used Custom Shop Chassis Satin Black and blended in a small amount of red garnet micro-pearls directly into the paint. Pearls are typically suspended over a base coat using a carrier coat, that way the pearls really show up. But in my case I didn't shoot a base/clear, and I didn't really want the pearl to jump out. Everything worked out like I'd hoped, only under direct sunlight can you see the red, and it kind of disappears when you try to look for it.

I have to say, in spite of all of my b!tching and whining while doing body fitment, I really enjoyed the challenge. I started off as a fiberglass novice about a year ago, and now I'm still a fiberglass novice, but with probably 350 hours of experience. I've gained a ton of knowledge. Good stuff.

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Your car is really looking exceptional I like all of the attention to detail. Just one question, where did you get your center console it looks like it was made for the hotrod!!

[Michael101]

Just one question, where did you get your center console it looks like it was made for the hotrod!!

Modern Classics Interiors Mike. Do some research before you decide to order though. It’s a great product but communication with this guy is non-existent. It took six months to arrive and I had to email the guy a zillion times to get that to happen. It’s not a COVID thing ,that’s always been his MO. Some people have better delivery times, some people never receive the product.

[FF33rod]

You did take the risk and get the console, glad you got it!

The black over the red looks fantastic!

Steve

[j33ptj]

Modern Classics Interiors Mike. Do some research before you decide to order though. It’s a great product but communication with this guy is non-existent. It took six months to arrive and I had to email the guy a zillion times to get that to happen. It’s not a COVID thing ,that’s always been his MO. Some people have better delivery times, some people never receive the product.

Awesome colour scheme!! Have you thought abt painting the rim around the car red too? or a pinstripe on it?

which console did you order? Stiletto 1005?

[FF33rod]

Awesome colour scheme!! Have you thought abt painting the rim around the car red too? or a pinstripe on it?

which console did you order? Stiletto 1005?

Mine was the tall stiletto, thought the regular was just a bit short. If you order (and PLEASE heed the advice of researching this company, go open with your eyes open) be careful about shifter position relative to cup holders and other options.

Steve

[Michael101]

Working on alignment now that I have the wheels
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[sethmark]

Definitely one of my favorites.

[Michael101]

Definitely one of my favorites.

Thanks Seth!

[Michael101]

Moving along at the speed of an old turtle. Like some of our other FF friends have pointed out recently ‘life’ sure has a way of reprioritizing us sometimes.

Anyhow, I have the dash assembled and ready to install, just waiting on extra A/C vent hose to come in. I can’t imaging trying to get this done without the removable dash.
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[FF33rod]

I can’t imaging trying to get this done without the removable dash.

LOL. Well putting it together is one thing without the removable dash but then servicing or doing anything afterward is even more difficult. Getting at the wiring is a challenge, the bolts for the removable hard top is next to impossible,.... FFR changing it to a removable piece was a very good idea....

Steve

[Michael101]

A couple of ‘I wish I would haves’ from my dash install…
1. Wish I’d attached the A/C duct hoses to the A/C before installing the body. It’s not an impossible task with the body on but it’s quite a bit more difficult for sure, and I have the bloody knuckles to prove it.
2. Wish I’d inserted the A/C thermostat wire in the A/C core before installing the body. It’s almost impossible to get it in with the body on, I have it inserted but not as far as the Vintage Air instructions want…oh well.

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[peterh226]

I recommend the Holley part that provides a larger arc and a less sensitive pedal.
Holley 20-16 Sniper EFI Throttle Lever Extension

[33fromSD]

Fully agree with Peter. I have a Holley Sniper EFI w/ Holley Hyper Spark EI on my 70 Challenger with a built 318 and without the throttle extension I couldn't leave a stop sign or stop light without spinning the tires or giving someone whiplash.

After I installed the 20-16 throttle level extension I have no issues feathering it off the line and having a nice controlled start. It will still react too if you want too.

Such a simple yet effect mod. Probably the smartest $14 I ever spent.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ts/parts/20-16

Jim

[Tampa33Build]

I have had one on back order for two months, Holly estimates shipping Dec 31