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Thread: 3Link Help

  1. #1
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    3Link Help

    Hi
    I am about to finalize my 3 link installation. I have a 5.5” gap frame to ground ride height both front and back. I need information on optimal angle settings for both top and bottom links. I am now 2 degrees up (from frame to rear end) on both lower links and 2 degrees down on the upper (from rear end to frame). I can use all the help I can get. I am looking for close to a G skid pad performance. Is this enough anti squat for the 33 to load the rear wheels.

    Any help appreciated.
    TomH33

  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Tom,

    I'm running a 3-Link on a MK-4, but the set up is the same.

    The lower links pointing two degrees up with the upper link pointing up 2 degrees down will pretty much equal out and not squat much. Heck, the springs are so stiff that you don't get much movement anyway so you can even lower the car if you'd like. Look at the attached link for setting up a 4 link.

    http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html

    Make sure your pinion angle is set correctly to avoid unnecessary vibrations. Find the angle of your drive-line and make the pinion angle the same. Then, at ride height adjust the pinion angle down 1-2 degrees to pre-load for axle twist under acceleration.

    The video below may help you with U-Joint phasing.
    https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 05-10-2019 at 01:50 PM.

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    It's best to keep the LCA parallel to the ground to eliminate roll steer. If you want to achieve 100% anti squat you may find you have to create some additional adjustment for your UCA. My recommendation is to start with the LCAs parallel to the ground (may require adjusting rear ride height) and do the calculation. If you don't have the software or math skills you can always trace out the 100% anti-squat line and your control arms on paper. You will need to know your center of gravity height (mine is just under 13") and if you don't have the means to measure this you can use the old racer's rule of thumb and measure from the ground to the center of the cam on a push rod engine. Or you can send me a PM and I'll walk you through the dimensions needed and can even do the calcs for you.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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