Broken aluminum shifter

[naigvirr]

Looking for some advice please. I finished my 818C build 4 weeks ago and have driven around 150 miles so far. I have the aluminum shifter option and gear selection has required a forceful shove. I spent a lot of time trying to find optimal set up but could not find a way to loosen up the gear selection. Not sure if I have missed something in the set up but even gear selection by hand directly at transmission requires a bit of force. This afternoon, 40 miles from home, I was changing from 1st to 2nd and the thread holding the gear selector cable broke. Managed to select 3rd manually and drove home. Photo of snapped thread attached. I'd be very grateful if someone can help me identify the issue.

IMG_5802.jpgIMG_5804.jpg

[aquillen]

I measured pull with a fish scale some time back. Pulling out the shaft to get 2nd or 4th was right at 28# when it moved. Perception to me was the other gears felt about the same reverse needed just a little more effort. 5 speed 98 Forester. Nothing was connected to the shift shaft.

With cable/linkage removed what is stiff - trans side or cable side?

If transmission -
Since inside the trans the shift shaft engages one of three dogs via the rotation first then push-pull on the particular dog is it much stiffer on one group (i.e. 1-2 or 3-4 or 5-R)? Or stiff on all push pull?

If stiff on all then suspect binding in just the shaft, pull rear housing and fix shaft problem, should not be major. If stiff on just one of three problem likely in that gear set and teardown more likely.

[naigvirr]

There's no real difference - all feel equally stiff on engagement so I'll follow your advice and take a look at the shaft.

Thanks

[aquillen]

Today I took a postal scale and pushed the shaft into 3rd - it popped into gear at about 23#. So push/pull on mine can say ranges 23-28# give or take the crude test. And that shaft slides in and out like silk if you have it setting in its case but that case is not bolted to the main transmission - that is just the shaft in it's bearing and seal.

[naigvirr]

Thanks very much Art - I really appreciate your help

[lance corsi]

I was always skeptical about the longevity of a ball joint type connection. I've converted my shifter mechanism over to use 5/16 heim joints, put into double shear by using a support on both sides of the heim. The cable shifters are problematic imo.

[frankc5r]

I was always skeptical about the longevity of a ball joint type connection. I've converted my shifter mechanism over to use 5/16 heim joints, put into double shear by using a support on both sides of the heim. The cable shifters are problematic imo.

Hi Lance,
Do u have any pictures of your setup? Love to see.
Thanks

[Mitch Wright]

Frank, are you using the FFR shifter using the long cables? If the issue isn’t the striker or gear selector shafts could it be a issue with the cables?
The MR2 set up felt much like my DD Miata and didn’t take much effort.

[frankc5r]

I am using VCP shifter and since I have ac, the cables are somewhat shorter and direct, going thru firewall not quite behind the drivers seat. If you operate the shifter manually at the rear, it seems to go in/out of gear fairly easily but using shifter going into 1st gear is very hard. I asked for pictures cause the little 10-32 ball joints seem to have alot of monkey motion. Hard to see by myself.

[lance corsi]

Hi Lance,
Do u have any pictures of your setup? Love to see.
Thanks

.
I've changed mine over to use rods & levers instead of cables. It requires taller motor mounts, some welding and different shift levers @ trans. The secret to a strong joint is to support your pivot/heim from both sides, putting your link pin in double shear. Sorry, no pics.