Body Fit and lasered holes

[Fixit]

Everything that "Edwardb" and Jeff has said is correct - the holes are a starting point - but don't do any major surgery on the QuickJack/Bumper holes.

I was at your stage about 3 or so weeks ago. I also paid extra to have FFR cut the body openings. My line of thought on this was they've done thousands, probably have "production-grade" templates (not a piece of paper), and a screw-up won't cause a ton of rework on my part.
Another thing to consider is having the tools to cut the holes... nearly everybody doing this project should have a few files and sandpaper, and probably a "Dremel" tool by now. This is a minimal investment compared to hole saw sets, die grinders, and air saws.

Take a look here. It's the start of a few threads detailing the body fitment on my car. Every pre-cut hole required a bit of "sweetening" - and I'm glad! Better to be a bit undersize and trim to perfect, than too big and "oh crap". (Trust me, a bit of filing and sanding on 'glass is a WHOLE LOT easier than trying to get a repro steel fender/quarter panel to fit!!)

[Dwleo]

Everything that "Edwardb" and Jeff has said is correct - the holes are a starting point - but don't do any major surgery on the QuickJack/Bumper holes.

Yeah, I wondered about that when they would not line up. Measured the overriders and they were both the same. Measured the body openings and the pass side was out 3/16" on the bottom hole.

I remember the first roadster I built 11 years ago and I had some minor trimming to do on the exhaust cutouts, it wasn't this big a deal.

[Dwleo]

Everything that "Edwardb" and Jeff has said is correct - the holes are a starting point - but don't do any major surgery on the QuickJack/Bumper holes.

I was at your stage about 3 or so weeks ago. I also paid extra to have FFR cut the body openings. My line of thought on this was they've done thousands, probably have "production-grade" templates (not a piece of paper), and a screw-up won't cause a ton of rework on my part.
Another thing to consider is having the tools to cut the holes... nearly everybody doing this project should have a few files and sandpaper, and probably a "Dremel" tool by now. This is a minimal investment compared to hole saw sets, die grinders, and air saws.

Take a look here. It's the start of a few threads detailing the body fitment on my car. Every pre-cut hole required a bit of "sweetening" - and I'm glad! Better to be a bit undersize and trim to perfect, than too big and "oh crap". (Trust me, a bit of filing and sanding on 'glass is a WHOLE LOT easier than trying to get a repro steel fender/quarter panel to fit!!)

Here's a pic of the header opening. (ooops. upside down)

[Jeff Kleiner]

The body cannot go forward anymore unless I cut off a portion of the trunk floor (it's right tight there) and then cut down the spacers on the overriders bolts and that ain't happening.

Cutting back the rearmost lip of the trunk floor is very common. I also never use the internal quick jack/overrider spacers. All part of making it fit. As far as your headers and the body cutouts---the visual is very deceiving and the way they appear now is not an indicator of how things will actually be with the splash panels and pipes installed. With all that said though I bet the body needs to come forward.

Jeff