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Thread: My Official GTM Build Thread!

  1. #1
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    My Official GTM Build Thread!

    Fair enough, it's a little premature (no comment) but this is the very beginning of it all! This poor sucker
    will have the task of hauling the GTM home this Saturday. Hopefully the FF cars are more fun to assemble
    than trailer hitches!





    One thing I've learned and still get burned...universal fit usually means, "cut, drill and stand on head". This
    job was no exception. Drilled the frame to relocate two bolt holes and then cut the bumper mounts to clear
    the hitch flange.

    Fun stuff. Check back this weekend for pics and updates on the GTM!
    Peace,
    Tino
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    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  2. #2
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Gotta start somewhere.........get er done!
    FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
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    All toys still in the Scuderia!


    Every Saint has a past..................every sinner a future

    Don't take yourself so seriously........no one else does.

    You never see a motorcycle parked outside a Psychiatrists office.

  3. #3

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    Welcome to the madness.

    Try and get some sleep these next few nights.
    www.myraceshop.com

    GTM solution kits
    Corvette and Race parts

  4. #4
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Tino,
    Cool. I'm sure you're not missing that camaro one bit..... Let the fun begin.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  5. #5
    Member afourcault's Avatar
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    congrats bro! cant wait till the day i stand in your shoes. maybe after this next deployment.
    Though you may try, you cannot break me. I am all that you wish you were but will never be.
    my prebuild/idea log

  6. #6
    Senior member Roger Reid's Avatar
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    Tino, welcome to the madness. Wait, am I the only sane one here? On the other hand there was that leftnfast guy
    Just an old man with a great hobby

  7. #7
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Thank you all! I'm looking forward to finally becoming a part of this crazy, dysfunctional and
    somewhat "finally broke" family.

    I'll do my best to get to sleep tonight, but I can't promise about tomorrow.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
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    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  8. #8
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    I can't believe it's sitting in my garage! GTM #105 has a proud new owner as of today. We drove from Cambridge to Callander, Ontario in
    a ten hour round drip drive to pick up the beast.


    We had quite a few confused stares on the drive home as people tried to figure out what type of car I was hauling. Lots of
    thumbs-up and horns. We stopped twice for gas at highway service stations, and the trailer was swarmed by curious on-lookers.
    Some kid even took a picture...which was strange because it was all taped up and stuffed with boxes. It was a cool feeling;
    all the questions and compliments. I almost felt like a FF salesperson with the info sessions!

    It was a great day, awesome weather and nice to meet Alain and Dave who were a big help getting the car onto the trailer and ready for
    travel. Below is a video link of some scenery along the way, and our adventure getting the car from crate to trailer:



    I am still wired from the events of today. Instead of going to sleep, I just unpacked the entire car and checked out the contents. This kit
    is going to be a BLAST to build. I'm very impressed!
    Last edited by Procision-Auto; 08-28-2011 at 01:38 AM.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
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    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  9. #9
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    My first build question!

    What do you find is the best method to knock down the edge/flashing from the body molding?

    Also wondering if there's a good thread on general body work tips for fiberglass prep.

    I know very little about prepping, priming, painting.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
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    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  10. #10
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
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    WOW Your fast, just took delivery and already onto bodywork and paint

    On the other forum members STL-Scott and Dan Ruth have documented a lot about body/paint work

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...rk-6583-a.html

    http://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-fac...ves-ahead.html
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  11. #11
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Thanks for the links. I'll continue to search, but there's just so much to read! Hopefully someone can show me what tool they used to knock down/cut the flashing without wrecking the body itself.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
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    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  12. #12
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    THis is what I have gatherered so far. Depending on how good the seam is there are a few ways to tackle the seams. If the seam is good you can block the area on either side and this will bring it level with the surrounding area. If you're good with a DA you can use it instead. Then you can address the seam with a rotary tool. You only want to go until you hit the fg. The better the seam the less of a groove you'll leave for filler. The worst areas are usually the side scoop, hood latch and B pillar areas.

    I am very close to starting this part of the body work and the above is what I have gathered from the other forum as well as some direct Q&A from some members and my painter. I am not a paint/body guy. HTHs.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  13. #13

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    Um, I don't think it advisable to use the rotary tool. You certainly want to take the seam down, and there may end up being areas that come up low and need some filler, but I would not go down to fiberglass with a rotary file on a body that you want to use as a finished product. If you can get the seams down while avoiding going entirely through the gel coat, I think I would do that. Just my opinion though.
    www.myraceshop.com

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    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I know it's a little bit early, but there is a great deal of work ahead of me. I want to make sure there's enough information under my cap before the work starts.

    I'll do my best to avoid cutting too deep. My thought is to chop down the excess material and leave a little hump, and then
    block it down. There must be some detailed YouTube videos on Fiberglass prep along with member 'how-to' threads.

    Let the reading begin!
    Last edited by Procision-Auto; 08-31-2011 at 12:33 AM.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
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    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

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    I use roloc pads 3" - with course sanding discs , knock down the ridges, block sand to level/ smooth. Look closely for any voids (where trapped air bubbles are) most of them are in fiberglass / gel coat interface layer. You want to open those up and fill with a quality filler - rage has been highly reccommended - Most of the time , I use an epoxy resin thickened with various fillers -( west system for example) micro fibers, micro balloons, etc, - as most of the ridges/ seams are just the parting line / not an actual joint between to separate pieces - most of your work is fairing, not structural. other than filling the voids. Once that is sanded down and you're happy with feel , epoxy prime - (either reg or high build as necessary - block sand, prime as necessary, ( if you've sanded through the primer) - then primer/sealer per paint manufacture specs. What ever fillers you use - allow enough time for shrinkage - full cure and sealed with a good primer coat. You will be going through the gel coat in some areas - it can't be helped. If you go too deep - widen the area and rebuild with fiberglass cloth/ mat , sand back to level, then apply body fillers / skim coat . I think street rod painter has some tips on the other forum - you'll also find a bunch of information on marine repair forums - as the majority of boats are fiberglass - your average body shop deals with steel bodied autos and may not be as well versed in fiberglass prep - and the materials selection - Take your time and when you think you've got it sanded perfectly smooth ( the primer)
    give it another go over with the block - (wet sanding)

  16. #16
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    Um, I don't think it advisable to use the rotary tool. You certainly want to take the seam down, and there may end up being areas that come up low and need some filler, but I would not go down to fiberglass with a rotary file on a body that you want to use as a finished product. If you can get the seams down while avoiding going entirely through the gel coat, I think I would do that. Just my opinion though.
    Crash,
    I definitely see what you're getting at. I've seen some of the roadster guys seams that look like ditches.

    Overall my body's seams are pretty good so there's no need to create a ditch in most of the seams, however there are the areas that are not level between the two mated pieces and then there's the side scoop area. That's why its good to start by blocking the area to level the excess to the surroundings. Then you can inspect what you have and how best to proceed. I don't know of a more effective way to get the mold release wax out of the voids in the seams in the side scoop surfaces. This so far has been the worst area.

    It's my understanding that the lightweight filler used on the seams should be applied to fg and not gel coat.

    Again, I'm not a body/paint and this is what I've gathered from the forum and direct member Q&A.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  17. #17
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbusa View Post
    I use roloc pads 3" - with course sanding discs , knock down the ridges, block sand to level/ smooth. Look closely for any voids (where trapped air bubbles are) most of them are in fiberglass / gel coat interface layer. You want to open those up and fill with a quality filler - rage has been highly reccommended - Most of the time , I use an epoxy resin thickened with various fillers -( west system for example) micro fibers, micro balloons, etc, - as most of the ridges/ seams are just the parting line / not an actual joint between to separate pieces - most of your work is fairing, not structural. other than filling the voids. Once that is sanded down and you're happy with feel , epoxy prime - (either reg or high build as necessary - block sand, prime as necessary, ( if you've sanded through the primer) - then primer/sealer per paint manufacture specs. What ever fillers you use - allow enough time for shrinkage - full cure and sealed with a good primer coat. You will be going through the gel coat in some areas - it can't be helped. If you go too deep - widen the area and rebuild with fiberglass cloth/ mat , sand back to level, then apply body fillers / skim coat . I think street rod painter has some tips on the other forum - you'll also find a bunch of information on marine repair forums - as the majority of boats are fiberglass - your average body shop deals with steel bodied autos and may not be as well versed in fiberglass prep - and the materials selection - Take your time and when you think you've got it sanded perfectly smooth ( the primer)
    give it another go over with the block - (wet sanding)
    D,
    If using Rage do you recommend blocking down to the fg? Do the voids you expose need to have the fg exposed? I'm doing the body work myself and want to have a solid job when done. Thanks.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by VD2021 View Post
    D,
    If using Rage do you recommend blocking down to the fg? Do the voids you expose need to have the fg exposed? I'm doing the body work myself and want to have a solid job when done. Thanks.
    it is recommended to take the area being repaired, filled or faired down to bare glass - for the best adhesion. usually in a mold the gel coat is apllied and allowed to tack up, and then the fiberglass is laid. The gel coat and fiberglass cure together thus creating a bond between the two - or you could say gel coat sticks to fiberglass , fiberglass doesn't stick to gelcoat . also note that when bonding to a cured part, with the intial part being laid up using polyester resins ( such as the body) the secondary bond strength can be improved by using a better grade resin - such as some hybrid polyesters, then vinylester or the best being epoxies . The price goes up pretty quickly - for example in my area a gal of marine boatyard resin is about 20, the better quality or hybrid
    polyesters can triple that, the vinylester runs me between 60 -80 a gal and the epoxies 125 and up -

    I haven't used Rage - just know it is highly recommended for use on fiberglass - As I do most of my work with epoxies. However, I have used in the past LSC, Tigerhair for rough filling and the better quality surfacers - I prefer to finish coat with an epoxy/ fairing compound, and no matter what , I always use an epoxy primer - mostly awlgrip 545 - and I have topcoated that with base/ clear, imron, ppg dbu, sterling or awlgrip .

    Unless you are doing a lot of body mods, such as widening the fenders , radiator ducting, or re scuplting the body - a one gal kit should be more than enough if you mix and use in small batches. The West system will probably be the easiest for you and they have a pretty good user guide manual - the 403 is not a bad all round filler and the 410 mixed with the epoxy resin is a very good fairing compound, mix and use in small quantitys too avoid excessive heat - that
    creates air bubbles, which leaves pinholes- we don't want that. hth

  19. #19
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    I'll admit:

    - I didn't even try to search

    - I'm only about 1/4 way through the GTM manual

    I'm trying to pick-up from where the previous owner left off , and it appears we're at the stage of
    wiring the steering column harness.

    I've search through the hundreds of boxes and baggies but cannot find the mating end. Perhaps this
    is why there is a Painless Wiring kit included with the car.

    Is the Painless Wiring kit part of the GTM package when ordering from the factory?

    Also wondering if there are keys, door key locks, and a steering column lock? Maybe the owner has them, or I'm supposed to buy these separately...

    This particular column does not appear to have a lock cylinder. In the area that I would expect
    to find a key, there is a toggle switch. Perhaps this column is meant for a push-button start deal?

    100_5823.jpg100_5818.jpg100_5820.jpg
    I've already sent a message to the previous owner who should be able to set me
    straight, but I likely wont hear back until later tonight. A quick reply to get me
    back to work will be very appreciated!

    Last one: Has anyone found the steering linkage to be too long? I had to remove
    the inner locking nut to align the front tires. This is temporary of course; I'll likely
    drill and tap through the sleeve, or check the passenger side to see if it will fit
    100_5821.jpg
    Last edited by Procision-Auto; 09-01-2011 at 10:44 AM.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
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    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  20. #20
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    The only key from FFR is the ignition key (they provide the ignition cylinder and key). There are no keys for the door locks, etc. Some have made the Corvette locks functional, but you will need the Corvette keys. I believe most have not done this. I shaved my door handles and will be using solenoids and poppers.

    Steering linkage is too long. Bore and tap or cut the threaded rod from the rack. Both solutions have been done.

  21. #21
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    I'll admit:

    - I didn't even try to search

    - I'm only about 1/4 way through the GTM manual

    I'm trying to pick-up from where the previous owner left off , and it appears we're at the stage of
    wiring the steering column harness.

    I've search through the hundreds of boxes and baggies but cannot find the mating end. Perhaps this
    is why there is a Painless Wiring kit included with the car.

    Is the Painless Wiring kit part of the GTM package when ordering from the factory?

    Also wondering if there are door key looks, and a steering column lock?

    This particular column does not appear to have a lock cylinder. In the area that I would expect
    to find a key, there is a toggle switch. Perhaps this column is meant for a push-button start deal?

    100_5823.jpg100_5818.jpg100_5820.jpg
    I've already sent a message to the previous owner who should be able to set me
    straight, but I likely wont hear back until later tonight. A quick reply to get me
    back to work will be very appreciated!

    Last one: Has anyone found the steering linkage to be too long? I had to remove
    the inner locking nut to align the front tires. This is temporary of course; I'll likely
    drill and tap through the sleeve, or check the passenger side to see if it will fit
    100_5821.jpg
    T,

    *Yes Sir. An 18 Circuit GM Column Painless Wiring Kit is included with the kit.
    *No door locks. However the latches do have a mech that you are instructed to remove before installing. Many go with "shaved handles" and poppers.
    *The portion of the steering wheel lock that the pin would go through is removed with the airbag. So you will not have a column lock.
    *The corvette steering column does not house the ignition switch. In the corvette it resided above your right knee. The switch on the column housing is for the telesoping function of the column.

    *You will have to shorten the rods on the steering rack.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  22. #22
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    I love you guys...in a non-sexual internet kinda way!
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
    www.procision-auto.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  23. #23
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    I love you guys...in a non-sexual internet kinda way!
    T,
    That's funny LOL.

    Now hurry up so we can see some building progess on the "My Official GTM Build Thread!".

    On a serious note. You're doing the right thing by going through the manual and inspecting what's been done. If you haven't, I would highly suggest you read the "Links to $64K Questions" on the other forum as well. It will let you know alot of what you'll be facing and answer many, many questions.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  24. #24
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'll check out that link later tonight.

    I'd love to post up some progress pictures, but most of the good stuff has already been assembled. I just spent two days (a few hours) sorting all of the
    parts in the boxes/bags so I know where to find certain items as the book calls for them. Before doing that it would have been a nightmare to search through
    everything!

    Right now, I'll be fighting with wiring for the most part, so there's not much to show. Perhaps I'll post some picures of the routing and fastening when it's
    all tucked away.

    Thanks again for the quick replies & help earlier (both of you). This forum has been great with facts and tips!
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
    www.procision-auto.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  25. #25
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Another day of inaction...

    Most of the "work" done on this car has been dedicated to sorting through boxes and organizing the parts. Today I tried installing the e-brake, but the screw clips are MIA. The cables have been routed, so it wasn't
    a total loss. I'll have to buy some washers, nuts and hardware from the local Home Depot tomorrow in order to move ahead.

    At least now I've visually identified all of the parts and placed them around the car so I'll know where to find them when needed. All of the aluminum panels have been stacked in numerical order as well. Better luck
    next round to assemble the car.

    Total build time thus far: 30 mins.

    100_5824.jpg100_5825.jpg100_5827.jpg100_5829.jpg100_5830.jpg
    Last edited by Procision-Auto; 09-02-2011 at 04:18 PM.
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
    www.procision-auto.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  26. #26
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    Today I finally made some headway on the build. The steering column wiring was sorted, routed, cut to length and soldered/heat shrunk into place.
    Quite a long process, but I want to keep it neat and tidy as I'm going along. Some of the extra switches on the cruise stalk are sparking some
    ideas. These buttons may be used to trigger certain custom features (IE: "Set" = push button start, R/A = LCD monitor mode cycling).

    I'm also toying with a circuit that will retract the telescopic column when the ignition is cut, and slide it back to a user set position when the
    ignition wires are charged. I'll see how feesible such a circuit will be once everything is powered up and I learn how it operates. If nothing else,
    it will make it easier to get in and out of the car.

    Just a couple of photos (boring...I know).
    Total build time: 2 hours

    100_5817.jpg100_5836.jpg
    Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Performance Parts
    www.procision-auto.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
    Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
    LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle

  27. #27
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    Today I finally made some headway on the build. The steering column wiring was sorted, routed, cut to length and soldered/heat shrunk into place.
    Quite a long process, but I want to keep it neat and tidy as I'm going along. Some of the extra switches on the cruise stalk are sparking some
    ideas. These buttons may be used to trigger certain custom features (IE: "Set" = push button start, R/A = LCD monitor mode cycling).

    I'm also toying with a circuit that will retract the telescopic column when the ignition is cut, and slide it back to a user set position when the
    ignition wires are charged. I'll see how feesible such a circuit will be once everything is powered up and I learn how it operates. If nothing else,
    it will make it easier to get in and out of the car.

    Just a couple of photos (boring...I know).
    Total build time: 2 hours

    100_5817.jpg100_5836.jpg

    T,
    Good stuff.

    The SCM held the circuit for the column in the corvette. There are 3 memory positions and entry/exit assist.

    If you'll be using a stock PCM you can use your cruise control.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
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    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  28. #28
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Cool, I didn't know it had entry/exit assist. Something tells me there's no SCM with this kit (steering control module?); I'm
    assuming it's some sort of box with pin harness. Does anyone have a photo of this bad-boy?

    If it's not too expensive, I'll grab one from the dealer/or used, otherwise I will design something similar.

    A stock PCM is the most likely choice, but I'm not sure that I'l be using drive-by-wire throttle body.

    Thanks for the info.
    Last edited by Procision-Auto; 09-05-2011 at 10:17 AM.
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  29. #29
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    Cool, I didn't know it had entry/exit assist. Something tells me there's no SCM with this kit (steering control module?); I'm
    assuming it's some sort of box with pin harness. Does anyone have a photo of this bad-boy?

    If it's not too expensive, I'll grab one from the dealer/or used, otherwise I will design something similar.

    A stock PCM is the most likely choice, but I'm not sure that I'l be using drive-by-wire throttle body.

    Thanks for the info.
    The SCM is mounted under the driver's seat in the corvette. I have mine in the tunnel. I moved it up to take the picture. I kept it from my donor so I wouldn't know the cost. I took a close up of the tag for the part number. HTHs.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  30. #30
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    There is a black plastic box with similar looking harness connections; again thanks for taking the photo.

    This week has been nuts with family events, but thankfully it's all coming to a hault. Today I finally had a couple of hours to mess
    around with the car. I managed to pull the body away from the cage which makes working up front much easier. I'll eventually
    hang the body to the ceiling of my garage, but for now it's posted against the rear tires.


    A couple of photos for the brake switch and mounting bracket, along with ignition wires. My plan is to find some quality looking toggles
    and pushbutton instead of using a key to start the motor. Total build time 3.5 hours.

    100_5842.jpg100_5843.jpg100_5844.jpg100_5839.jpg100_5840.jpg100_5841.jpg
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  31. #31
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Finally getting into some of the good stuff. I made a temporary template for the gauges and tied them with marettes to make sure
    everything works before the hard-wiring begins.

    If all goes well, all of the non-engine wiring will be complete by month end with neatly tucked loom. I'm also toying with some ideas
    to design a warning indicator for engine sensors that are approaching their hazard zones (IE: high temp., low oil pressure, low fuel, etc.).
    This would be separate from the PCM malfunction indicator (MIL).

    Even cooler is to install a keypad that requires a code in order to start the motor. I'll need to find some fancier buttons, and LED's
    to make it look nice.

    Here's a short video of where I'm at now:


    312593_10150449978954148_505744147_10921004_1781368581_n.jpg
    illuminated keypad $20 Proximity-Entry-Lock-Keypad-182404-showa.jpg293264_10150449978669148_505744147_10921001_1054756031_n.jpg
    Last edited by Procision-Auto; 09-21-2011 at 02:21 AM. Reason: Found a nice keypad for the code circuit
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    Another small roadblock that I'm hoping the experienced builders can help with!

    I'm trying to wire up the fog light and hazard light switches. They appear to be a momentary type push button;

    they are Apem A0152B series like this:
    A0152B.jpg

    Having purchased a used kit, I'm getting the feeling I don't have all the necessary parts or instructions for assembly.
    The large Factory Five GTM manual doesn't appear to have specifics on the wiring for these.

    My guess is that the switch output connects to a module, and the module activates a relay for the flashers and fog lights
    Correct? Can someone please direct me to a thread that details the wiring for these switches and/or a diagram for the module
    and the pin-outs?

    The best search yielded this thread:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...=Hazard+switch

    I gather I'm missing some harnesses and some control modules? The only component I have is a small module that looks like this:

    scm.jpg

    Could this be the one? Wiring diagram anyone?
    Thanks,
    Tino
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  33. #33
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00SS_M6LS1 View Post
    Another small roadblock that I'm hoping the experienced builders can help with!

    I'm trying to wire up the fog light and hazard light switches. They appear to be a momentary type push button;

    they are Apem A0152B series like this:
    A0152B.jpg

    Having purchased a used kit, I'm getting the feeling I don't have all the necessary parts or instructions for assembly.
    The large Factory Five GTM manual doesn't appear to have specifics on the wiring for these.

    My guess is that the switch output connects to a module, and the module activates a relay for the flashers and fog lights
    Correct? Can someone please direct me to a thread that details the wiring for these switches and/or a diagram for the module
    and the pin-outs?

    The best search yielded this thread:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...=Hazard+switch

    I gather I'm missing some harnesses and some control modules? The only component I have is a small module that looks like this:

    scm.jpg

    Could this be the one? Wiring diagram anyone?
    Thanks,
    Tino
    Tino,
    I didn't use the painless so I can only help you with the switches pin-outs if you need it. However I would highly suggest you look at Spytech's site. Do a search there for flasher or switch. I would also suggest a search on the other forum. I'm certain you'll find your answer. HTHs.

    There was an electronic update to the manual and the new manual has the fog and hazard instruction. It's too large to attach here.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  34. #34
    Senior Member The Stig's Avatar
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    SpyTech has the Hazard switch documented in his build log. On the right side of his page, click on "wiring". Scroll down to the bottom and there is an section that explains which wires to match up to wire it correctly.

    http://www.gtm-supercar.com/?cat=34
    Show how he wired his head lights, fog lights, tail lights

    http://www.gtm-supercar.com/?cat=11
    Shows how the dash, stereo, and gauges were wired. Scroll to the bottom, and you'll see his instruction for the Hazard Lights.

    Take Care,

    Mike
    Last edited by The Stig; 09-22-2011 at 12:29 PM.
    The Stig

    Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
    All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
    GTM #0081

  35. #35
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    Thank you MIke and Vidal. I will browse these pages more carefully later this evening. Upon a quick look at the instructions
    of the Hazard wiring, I don't believe my problem will be resolved.

    My switch seems to give a pulsed, momentary output to the centre pin (#2) when pushing the button. Whenever I release
    the button the signal to pin #2 is lost (but the hat will stay down and illuminate the LED).

    This may be the wrong switch ; I don't think the relay will continue to supply power to the hazard lights with a momentary
    type button. Maybe I'll make a video to explain.

    Great site links, thanks again for the quick reply!
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  36. #36
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    Here is a quick video of the switch function. The Hazard and Fog Lamp siwtch work the same way.



    I'll either need to build a latch circuit to hold the switch state, or resort to using a continuous latch type switch to
    activate the relay (correct?).
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  37. #37
    Member spytech's Avatar
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    The switch should power pin 2 continuously when it is pressed in. Is your switch fully 'clicked together'? The inner pins look too short. The switch pins are slightly diff than what the Gen 1 used, but here is a pic from my build log:

    http://www.gtm-supercar.com/wp-conte...2/img_6215.jpg

  38. #38
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    I agree.

    It's clear that these switches are the wrong type compared to your part number and photo. I'll see about building a latch circuit because I don't think getting
    them swapped for the proper type is an option. Perhaps I can order them through a local electronics supplier.
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  39. #39
    Senior Member VD2021's Avatar
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    Tino,
    Can you seperate the two? Both the hat portion and the other part should be latching switches. Seperate the two and test it by itself. And since it hasthree additional pins I would test them too. We not the hat it latching. I think the other part is not and the hat's post is backing uff just enough for the connection to go back to open.

    Oh and thinks for the shoutout.
    R/s
    Vidal
    CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
    GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
    BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
    http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .

  40. #40
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    I'll give it a shot when I get home; both the Fog Lamp and Hazard switch are doing the same thing.

    Chances of both being faulty are slim, but who knows?! Hopefully the odds will be in my favour!
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