My Official GTM Build Thread!

[Kalstar]

I have an L33 out of a 05 Silverado. I used an LS6 intake. With a baby cam, the power to the wheels is 358whp/339 Tq. Roughly equal to a stock LS2 or LS6. What mufflers are you using?

[VD2021]

The LH side aft door post will need to be worked to move the top of it in. If you leave it you'll likely never get a decent seal.

You should also be prepared to rework the entire window surrounding, primarily the A pillar and then the aft post, iot make it match the shape of the window.

[LCD Gauges]

I have an L33 out of a 05 Silverado. I used an LS6 intake. With a baby cam, the power to the wheels is 358whp/339 Tq. Roughly equal to a stock LS2 or LS6. What mufflers are you using?

Not bad for a 5.3! With a 6.0L, extra compression, and moderate cam I'm hoping to get 400ish at the wheel.
The mufflers are Magnaflow pn#14806
14806.jpg

The LH side aft door post will need to be worked to move the top of it in. If you leave it you'll likely never get a decent seal.

You should also be prepared to rework the entire window surrounding, primarily the A pillar and then the aft post, iot make it match the shape of the window.

So, another three years of my life you figure? I was thinking to slice into the back side of the pillar in multiple locations
to mold it into shape, then use a hardener with fibeglass to make it solid again.

Speaking of body work, how many of you have a major offset at the rear tires? One side is almost one inch offset
from the fender. I'm thinking a thicker spacer on the driver's side is the most effective way to correct this issue?
While I'm there, I might as well deal with the radius of the wheel wells too.
tire_align.jpg
On a sad note, the driver's side tank is leaking. I'm already draining the fuel, and ripping out the driver's seat.
Just as well, I needed more work to do...
fuel_leak.jpg
I'm so tempted to order a set of aluminum tanks, but that's $$$dreaming$$$ right about now. I'm selling nude photos of myself
for $5 a shot. Who wants one?

[VD2021]

Not bad for a 5.3! With a 6.0L, extra compression, and moderate cam I'm hoping to get 400ish at the wheel.
The mufflers are Magnaflow pn#14806
14806.jpg


So, another three years of my life you figure? I was thinking to slice into the back side of the pillar in multiple locations
to mold it into shape, then use a hardener with fibeglass to make it solid again.

Speaking of body work, how many of you have a major offset at the rear tires? One side is almost one inch offset
from the fender. I'm thinking a thicker spacer on the driver's side is the most effective way to correct this issue?
While I'm there, I might as well deal with the radius of the wheel wells too.
tire_align.jpg
On a sad note, the driver's side tank is leaking. I'm already draining the fuel, and ripping out the driver's seat.
Just as well, I needed more work to do...
fuel_leak.jpg
I'm so tempted to order a set of aluminum tanks, but that's $$$dreaming$$$ right about now. I'm selling nude photos of myself
for $5 a shot. Who wants one?

It sucks that you've developed a leak. What technique and materials did you use on the crossover fittings?

Door Post-I used a similar technique on the aft post. I sanded the area down to the fg, cut out a section that allowed me to move it into the correct position. I clamped it and filled the inside with long-strand reinforced fg filler. Then fg'd the exterior and finished with rage.

Rear Wheels-You just need to move the body until you get equal measurements on both sides. Michael did a great right up. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...ml#post2642342

HTHs

[LCD Gauges]

It sucks that you've developed a leak. What technique and materials did you use on the crossover fittings?

I actually read your instructions before doing the cross-over connections. The epoxy was a different kind however; maybe I'll need something
a little better, and perhaps prep the tank more thoroughly for stronger adhesion.

Rear Wheels-You just need to move the body until you get equal measurements on both sides. Michael did a great right up. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...ml#post2642342

Geez, cutting the roll cage to fit the body?! Kill me now. I've already tried a smaller scale procedure to what Michael had posted; it almost feels like the body
will snap with the stress of pushing the back end to the right side. The hatch will line up with the edge of the body when pushed to the right, but the rear wheels
don't center laterally. Maybe a video is easier to explain. Thanks for the link, that's a great help!

[LCD Gauges]

Oh yeah baby, we're almost bang on. After measuring, and leveling everything in sight, the rear bracket was installed. Now the tires, and trunk lid are sitting in their
rightful place.

The wheel alignment has not been completed yet, but it's pretty close (as is the ride height). I'm not going to set anything in stone until the wheels have been setup, however
my procedure was to align the body to the frame/cage, and not the wheels. If anything, i'll rework the wheel wells to conform to the roll cage, and wheel alignment.
It just seems like the right thing knowing the body is not true. Anybody disagree with that logic?

Pretty much dead center. Just a tweak perhaps after the wheels get aligned.
body_center.jpg

Leveled the entire car. Used the frame as the reference. The cross bar, and the transmission mount are centered,
and also serves as the visual reference. The levels sat on the body, and trunk lid while the laser indicates the centerline
of the frame.
rear_align1.jpgbodylevel.jpg
Three bolts used to hold the rear in place. I'm also going to use an industrial glue between the
back side, and bracket before 'glassing the bracket to the body. The license plate covers up
the bolts very well.
bracketbolts.jpgplate_covered.jpg

The only major clean-up will be the lip of the trunk to the body. It's nearly square,
but there are several high, and low spots that require attention. I think shaving the
edge of the trunk should allow the lid to sit more flush with body lines at either side.

The rest will require fiberglass, and bondo to true-up I'd imagine.
trunk_algn.jpgTrunklid.jpg

[Edgeman]

Tino,

Are you going to make the holes for the mufflers over size? I think you would have a problem with the paint in that area, with the heat that they will be giving off.

[LCD Gauges]

Hey Doug, I'm not totally sure what I'm doing with the back end right now, but it's not going to stay as seen.

I've been thinking about putting a finishing plate in that section that will be some sort of metal alloy. The lights are not staying,
and the diffuser still needs to be addressed. I'm just too poor, and overworked to get it all done this season. My eyes have been
checking out the Scion FR-S rear diffuser, and *cough* Ferrari F430 diffuser.

I'd like to add reverse lights in the muffler cut-outs, and go with dual turn/brake LED rear lights (similar to the Vette setup).

2013-Scion-FR-S-rear-end.jpg

The F430 seems like it would slide right into the GTM with very little effort. I would what the price tag might be?
I'll let you know on Monday when I call the dealership. They may want some of my body parts for a deposit though...
f430.jpg

[flotowngtm]

Hey Lukin4trbl there is someone on here that already used a F430 diffuser. Here is the only pic that I have

[LCD Gauges]

That's pretty cool looking. This is the image I have in mind (aside from the spoiler which I cannot recreate easily).

Something like this with a black roof, and side window scoops.
GTM_final.jpgGTM430_4.jpgGTM430_2b.jpg

[carbon fiber]

you're gonna want those sections around the exhaust to be open to let some of the hot air out of the engine compartment. don't use the screen provided by ffr, it doesn't flow air well.

[LCD Gauges]

That was one of the reasons for not cutting out around the exhaust for the moment; I'm not too crazy about the look of the FFR supplied screen mesh.

Keeping a solid panel would also help reduce flex in that area as that is where the bracket is mounted. I'm not sure how much heat the bay will need to
dissipate as the trunk lid hasn't been mounted yet. I'm hoping that the trunk lid openings, the diffuser gap, and general flow under the car will be enough.
If not I'll have to revisit the setup, and possibly make venting at the outer edges of the bumper area, and/or add screening around the exhaust tips.

We'll see; I know there's not much flow in the places I've listed.

[LCD Gauges]

Looking forward to seeing this car all one shade/colour! The last two days have been spent cleaning, degreasing, and taping.

Tonight I'll be applying filler to all the uneven areas, and sanding down the rough spots that I never finished. With all the new
info that I've gathered about body prep, I'll be set.

2013-09-22 15.08.14.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Received the quote from the Ferrari dealership. The diffuser includes the fins, but it's made of plastic? I never thought I'd see that material used
on an exotic trim piece! Needless to say, it's out of my budget, and knowing it's not carbon fiber doesn't make it desirable at all. If anyone else
wants the details, I have a bill of materials, and a PDF exploded view of the assembly.

F430a.jpgF430b.jpg
Some dirty rendering of the Scion FR-S diffuser. I like the idea of having mesh
screen covering the muffler outlets, and center reflectors/lights.
GTM_FRS.jpgGTM_FRSb.jpg

My quest for the perfect design continues!

[crash]

Dude, Ferrari uses ALL KINDS of plastic for trim pieces. My BILs 360 not only has plastic trim pieces, but they turn your hands, or anything else that touches them BLACK. Apparently it is a common and well known problem.

I went over the 360 pretty good while I was waiting for him to run an errand and I'm telling you, there are PLENTY of cheesy things on a modern Ferrari. They just cost about 100 times more to fix than on our GTMs! LOL! I think they refer to most of these issues as "Italian flair".

[LCD Gauges]

That's not the Italian Flair I'm used to! Talk about over-priced; the dealership wrote back after I told them I wasn't interested in a plastic diffuser.
He said the Scuderia 430 has a carbon fiber option, and he could get a price. The Scuderia's base, plastic diffuser is worth $6,900...should I ask
about the price for carbon just for kicks?

Here are the differences between the two.
Ferrari_F430_Rear.jpgFerrari-430_Scuderia_2008_1600x1200_wallpaper_89.jpg

Two extra fins for twice the price! I think I'll pass, and give Scion a call, and check out pricing on custom made carbon pieces.

[Taz Rules]

Thats crazy money, to be sure. Why not see how much Carbon Fiber or Thomas 142 would charge to whip one up for you?

On another note, got my 1/10th scale GTM a couple of days ago with no customs hassles. It just arrived in the mail like any other parcel. Go ahead and order one...it looks great!

[The Stig]

On another note, got my 1/10th scale GTM a couple of days ago with no customs hassles. It just arrived in the mail like any other parcel. Go ahead and order one...it looks great!

Is it COOL or What!?!

[LCD Gauges]

It's super cool! I've seen photos a million times already, but you just can't appreciate the detail, and size until it's in your hands. Thank you Steve!

I'll be grabbing the wheels, and tires soon. Also thinking about mirrors, and a wing to finish it off. Maybe they sell rear tail lights, and mesh for these things?!
Now the real GTM will never get done.

2013-09-26 18.25.43.jpg2013-09-26 18.26.17.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

It has been a great weekend away with the fam. Not much work getting done on the GTM, but I kept it close by my side.

Is this the coolest cake ever? A little shot of me with the niece, and nephew. They think the car looks like a spaceship; hopefully
that's a good thing.
gtmcake.jpgtnick_alex.jpg
P.S. Don't mind the numbers on the cake, I'm sure it has something to do with the sidewall ratio of the tires.

[LCD Gauges]

Back to biz on this crazy body work.

This is the rear quarter after filling in pin holes, and sanding 220.
There is a slight hump in the second photo that is noticeable with light.
I'll have to knock that down a touch more!
2013-09-25 20.51.56.jpg2013-10-02 20.50.03.jpg
High spots, and low spots. Second photo is what's left after 220 blocking.
I'm going to spray some guide coat on tomorrow, and block with 400 to check for more uneven areas.
2013-10-01 20.29.11.jpg2013-10-02 20.50.21.jpg

Driver's side air duct. Wow, I hate this part the most. The panels were far from even, and
all the tight corners, and curves makes it very difficult to sand. After four hours, I'm still left
with some holes, and apparent uneven surface.
2013-10-02 20.48.47.jpg2013-10-02 20.48.59.jpg
This is the driver's door brace after two coats of spray-can yellow. A bit of orange peel
effect going on, but I'm not going to bother sanding this down as it will be hidden from view.
It looks pretty smooth, and well adhered for a hand-job (< )
2013-10-02 20.53.05.jpg
This is the gun I picked up last year. It's a high volume, low pressure, gravity feed. The installed tip is a 1.4.
I'm hoping this will be good enough for the priming stage; maybe a different tip will be required.
2013-10-02 17.27.21.jpg

If nothing else, most of the swirl marks are disappearing from the initial rough-up of the body (when I completely had
no clue how to sand). The criss-cross hatch pattern at about 30 degrees intersect is the motion I'm using now.

[LCD Gauges]

After a good wash, and tack, I gave a few spots a healthy dose of guide prime. A bit more than required...yes, but
it helps me to see the imperfections.

To my surprise, the side air duct turned out much better than expected considering all the parting lines, and steps
before the body work began. More filler, sanding, repeat.

2013-10-03 07.29.41.jpg

Easier to see the wave along the bottom where the three pieces join.
It wasn't as pronounced without the guide layer.
2013-10-03 07.29.56.jpg
Lots of work remains in the corners, and more pin holes after the last cleaning.
Spot putty should fix those I'd imagine.
2013-10-03 07.30.15.jpg2013-10-03 07.30.25.jpg

I used several light sources, with different angles, and intensities to find errors.
After this stuff cures, and shrinks, I'll add a thin layer of filler (or putty) to the low
areas, and block it again.
2013-10-03 07.30.43.jpg2013-10-03 07.31.09.jpg2013-10-03 07.31.44.jpg2013-10-03 07.33.06.jpg

Body guys really do earn their money. It's easy to see that I'm out of my league, but it's
going to have to suffice until I can afford the real thing.

It's going to be a long Winter spent in the garage.

[LCD Gauges]

Here are some exciting pictures for you all! Doing a second round of filling, and blocking to correct the low spots.
These are the before, and after areas that are shown in the previous post. It will be FUN to see how it all progresses...
like watching paint dry?

I used the widest applicator to ensure the block would conform to the curve of the body.
The filler is spread about two inches on either side of the low spot, so it should sand out nicely.
2013-10-03 07.33.06.jpg2013-10-05 17.10.22.jpg

This may not be a low spot, but the filler shows through the guide coat and gives the
impression there may be the slightest dip. Maybe I'm over cautious, but I'd rather be
safe than sorry!
2013-10-03 07.30.43.jpg2013-10-05 17.10.43.jpg
Filler to fix the bigger air pockets in the gel coat, and spot putty for the tiny air bubbles.
I knew this area needed more work before spraying the guide layer, but having all the different
shades, and transitions made it difficult to see where all the problems were.
2013-10-03 07.30.25.jpg2013-10-05 17.10.52.jpg

I'm also getting leads on 2K primer that will work with the 3M products that I've used. I'm not sure when I'll
be ready to prime; at this rate, I'm taking nearly a week to prep one rear quarter! On the bright side, they say
the filler should sit for at least a few days to allow shrinking, then block to the final grit prior to priming.

[Aman]

Nice work man! Kudos to you for taking on the most daunting part of the build! It's looking great so far!

Aman

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Aman, I'm doing my best, and I'll take as long as required to get the perfect base before moving on.

A few points of interest for those following along:
- The Scion FR-S diffuser (aka lower bumper assembly) is $318.22 + tax from the dealer. That's about 10x less than Ferarri's plastic part.
With a little work, I think it will look really nice. I'm going to check one out up-close, and make a decision before the primer stage happens.

- I've picked up a thermal adhesive from Thermo-Tec for the inner tunnel, and fender aluminum. The idea is to keep the pinging from rocks
to a minimum, and isolate the heat in the tunnel, and engine cover/firewall. This stuff is about 1/8" thick, and appears to have great damping
on top of thermal properties. The outer tunnel is covered with a fiber-foil material on my car, so having this stuck inside should really help
knock down the heat. It's thin enough to fit under the console, and engine cover without interfering with anything behind it.
DSC_0004.JPG

My father (whom is my partner in crime) also contact a friend of his about paint & primer. He mentioned a paint MFG, or brand called, "Diamond".
The only reference I can find to automotive paint bearing any similarity is Diamond-Kote which seems to be a clear coat protective finish.
Has anyone heard of Diamond paint? If so, can you link me? Google defies me.

P.S. Got a new camera for the big 4-0. No more crappy cell phone photos. Check out the difference under similar light conditions.
Samsung Gio Cell vs. Nikon D3100 DSLR
D3100_vs_cell.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Starting the door internals now. This is my phobia of the build; if I don't sell the car during the window alignment, or scissor hinge install I'll have a car for life.

I've seen photos where a few of you have relocated the motor bracket to the middle of the horizontal bars. I'd hate to mess up my sexy paint, but if it makes
life easier, I'm all for it.
door_assembly.jpg
This section is ready for another guide coat, and then 400 grit attack. I'm pretty sure all the pin holes, and
prior issues are fixed. I'm just hoping those two high spots (black) will not show waves after the next pass
of sanding. If not, you know what that means? I can start working on the other side!!!
2ndpass_220.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

Take two! It's looking MUCH better, and most of the issues are gone except for pin holes, and a couple of hard spots in the corners of the air-inlet thingie...

It's only a guide coat, but it's so refreshing to see one solid shade! Too bad it's all getting blocked down again.
DSC_0003.JPG

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but the pin holes just keep re-appearing. Maybe the spot putty isn't the best
thing to use? I'm going to try a thin layer of filler, mixed with less viscosity this time around. There are also some
low spots in the corner as you see.

The underside of the cut-out looks like crap. It's wavy, and not blended well at all. This was after fixing the edge
which had a bunch of air-bubble cracks; I'll have to try one more application of filler, and block with more attention
on the edge.
DSC_0005.JPG

The low spot is gone! It's probably not a big deal for the pro's, but it's nice to see something
go well. The edges of the filler have a 'fuzzy', or 'dotted' texture through the guide coat.
Is this normal? Why not the entire patch, but just the edges? It was blocked down 220, and
very well blended (no feeling, or visual step) before the primer was sprayed on. Maybe I just need
to block it with 400+, and/or add more guide coat? Just making certain before I move on.
DSC_0007.JPG

I'm also creating a personal build site for the car if anyone is into web design. Right now, it's just a Flash movie flipping
through the pages, but I'll make individual pages soon. Don't mind some of the vehicle data, it's just a placeholder in some cases!

http://www.streetlegalracecar.ca

[carbon fiber]

don't use the cheap body products. make sure the area with the pinholes is blown out with air. spot puty dries up quickly, so once it gets to that point where it starts to get dry, it's not going in the holes/ or bonding. also wait long enough after for it to set up so you don't pull the putty out of the holes when sanding.

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks for the tip, and checking my process. I'm using 3M products exclusively except for Duplicolor spray-can primer for the guide coats.

3M Bondo Filler, 3M Spot & Glaze Putty, 3M Long/Short strand Fiberglass, 3M Sandpaper (80, 120, 220, 400 wet/dry). I'm not sure how these
rate in the automotive field, but I've read great things about this manufacturer, and also inquired on this site, and others. It's also readily available
at most auto stores around me.

After washing & degreasing the local area, I'll let it dry. The panel is sanded to 220 (scuff), and washed again.

I'll add the filler with a flexible applicator as thin as possible and let it dry over night at a minimum. It's blocked
down using 80-120-220 grit, then I'll blow off the dust with 100 PSI compressed air. After the dust settles, I'll
grab the garden hose using a clean sponge to wash the car. It dries thoroughly, and I'll use a lint free cloth to
wipe the spots that are getting filled.

Repeat as necessary. That's my procedure.

mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UF6EVsSyXTtN8TXoXfVEVtQEVs6EVs6EVs6E666666--&fn=907_GlazingAndSpotPutt.jpgimage_14144.jpgGRP-MMM-BON-FRF.jpg0005113103001_500X500.jpgfp102.jpg

[VD2021]

3M has some solid products (8115 comes to mind), but their base body filler (bondo) may not be one of them. It works but it's tough to sand and may shrink. The hose and sponge may be causing issues also. The rattle can primer is a Lacquer Based product and may need additional time to cure prior to sanding. Also if you cover the entire car with it you will need to seal it unless you plan on using a lacquer to paint your GTM.

Try this technique.

-Wipe down the panel with wax/grease remover.
-Gel Coated Panels. Block with 80 grit. Also sand any low/untouched spots with 80 grit.
-Primed Panels. Scuff with a green scouring pad or block/scuff with 220 grit.
-Blow off or Shop Vac (with a brush attachment) the panel. (Skip the hose and sponge)
-Apply your body filler.
-Start blocking with 80 grit as soon as it has a nonstick feel to it.
-Apply a contrasting color guide coat to the panel. There are rattle can and powder based versions, flat black cheap rattle can paint works too)
-Block with 80 grit.
-Now you can see and feel the low spots.
-Scuff the low spots and then blow or vac them.
-Apply body filler to the low spots.
-Repeat the 80 grit blocking, contrasting guide coat and filler until the panel is flat.
-The above has worked well for me.

-I have only primed around my marker additions with polyester primer/surfacer so I've not used a spray can primer on the car. But this is what i would do;
-Apply the primer. (You may need to block to 100 or 120 grit if the primer does not cover the 80 grit scratches)
-Once the primer cures block it to 180 or 220 grit.

[LCD Gauges]

Looks good Vidal, I'll give it a try.

Also if you cover the entire car with it you will need to seal it unless you plan on using a lacquer to paint your GTM.

I will have to read more about the lacquer based spray paints before moving forward, but...I thought it wasn't a issue as I'll be using
a 2K primer after blocking the entire car one last time?

[LCD Gauges]

I believe I have this beat! After using a few tips from our members, and getting better at the technique I can say the driver's side inlet is
pretty much straight, and seamless. It took three passes of filler, and guide coat application to get it right, but I'm happy with the results.
If nothing else, I'll apply a very thin layer of spot/glaze putty over some of the excessive scratches that are showing, and a couple tiny blemishes.

This is sanded down 220, and a light fog of filler primer as a guide.

gtm_inlet_curve2.jpggtm_seamless.jpg
Pin holes fixed, and edges blended fairly well. The second photo
is blocked to 400 just around the curve of the inlet to practice removing
the, "orange peel" finish. There isn't much of a guide layer to sand off,
so the final pass shouldn't take much elbow grease.

gtm_pinhole_coverage.jpggtm_inlet_last.jpg

Moving onto the rear, and passenger side. I'll get the main body setup with
220 grit blocking, and a guide coat before moving to the hood, doors, and hatch.

The rear hatch needs quite a bit of rework on my car, and that's before the glass
comes into the equation. I know Mike (TheStig) had a heck of a time getting it true,
and is now redesigning his hatch to correct the issue.
gtm_rear_quarter2.jpggtm_rear1.jpg
Waveless, and shadowless using different light intensities, angles, and
my untrained eyes.
gtm_no_wave.jpggtm_seamless.jpg

Tough to see, but there's a step (shadow) across the seam. This will need a wide
applicator, and a bit more filler to straighten.
gtm_c_pillar.jpg

After seeing my car in this improved condition, I wonder how I let myself post such crappy images
all of this time.

[LCD Gauges]

Searched for a Gen 1 with glass fitting issues, and found "TheStig's" thread. From what I can tell, the glass is resting on the lip of each pillar.
Mike, can you elaborate on your photo with respect to the spacing?

My door doesn't have any seal at the moment, however the glass doesn't touch either ledge on the front, or rear post.

Has anyone experience this much slack on their Gen 1 kit? I don't see a fix for this, other than having new glass made!
DSC_1681.jpgdoor_glass.jpg

[VD2021]

Searched for a Gen 1 with glass fitting issues, and found "TheStig's" thread. From what I can tell, the glass is resting on the lip of each pillar.
Mike, can you elaborate on your photo with respect to the spacing?

My door doesn't have any seal at the moment, however the glass doesn't touch either ledge on the front, or rear post.

Has anyone experience this much slack on their Gen 1 kit? I don't see a fix for this, other than having new glass made!
DSC_1681.jpgdoor_glass.jpg

Tino,

Take a deep breath to begin preparing yourself mentally, for the work ahead. I think I've spent 85% or more, of the time doing body work, on the doors.

Gen1 or Gen2, there is almost no difference in the work required to get them to an acceptable state and even more if you want a road worthy seal with no issues opening or closing the door with the glass up.

[LCD Gauges]

Vidal, I think I'm out of breath for this snag. Aside from having custom glass made, I'm thinking about splitting the rear post, and moving the inner
half toward the glass, then filling the gap. I'll do the same thing for the forward triangular section.

If anyone has a better solution, I'm all 'eyes'!

door_glass2.jpg

[VD2021]

Maybe something in here will help. http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/doors.html

[LCD Gauges]

Thanks Big V., that gives me some perspective on the amount of work ahead of me... x2.

Tomorrow I'm going to measure, and mock up how thick the rear post would end up using my plan.
Since that post needs to be re-worked to form the proper curve to the body, I'd rather keep the
dirty work on the door itself, as opposed to glassing the body and the door.

[LCD Gauges]

More work on the doors today, and some close-ups of the window gap. The initial modifications seem as they will work well
with glass clearance; I can't say for sure until the door goes back on the car for final fitting. I'm pretty sure the glass will roll
all the way down without much trouble.

The sad moment of the day was wrecking my sexy, yellow painted door braces to install the motor relocation bracket. Have
no fear though, I'll have that sexy colour fixed in no time! There's ample room for the "slider clamp" to clear the motor housing.
Hopefully I've jumped through all the hoops necessary to get the glass to roll unimpeded. One thing that needs to change is
the upper cable routing which will follow the red line. Maybe tomorrow I'll have this contraption powered up, and moving?
door_internal.jpgguide_clearance.jpg
With the motor in this position, the handle will not clear, but it's all good as I'm planning to use
the popper solenoid to open the doors via a guarded button. Not sure if the button will be placed
on the door, or console at the moment. To cover the hole, I'd like to have a placard of sorts made
with Factory Five GTM #105 in black/dark gray so it doesn't stand out much against the panel.

door_skin.jpg
Here's the gap spacing with one edge of the glass up against the rear post. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to split
the difference (Ron), or stretch the post without making it look fat. Once I get the glass, and rails secure, the
clearance can be checked on the car to determine the best solution.
gap_measure.jpgwindow_gap.jpg


Lastly, I did more work on the web site. There's still a bunch to add on most pages for additional
colour, and photos of the car once I get the mess cleaned up. The Performance page was edited
from the Road & Track theme layout; that will need to be resized to make the text clearer.

www.streetlegalracecar.ca

[LCD Gauges]

As recommended by RFRider, I should have a mechanical connection to the door latch in case of emergency, or solenoid failure.
That prompted a tear down of the door bracket again, and a few different layouts until everything clicked.

I've added a bracket for the inner door handle to bolt onto. I'm not sure if the manual recommends securing the handle to the
door brace, but I highly recommend doing that if you haven't already.

door_bracket.jpgdoor_skin2.jpg

Now there's even more clearance between the window motor, and slider clamp for the window.
No issues for space, and the door skin lays flat without any interference.
motor_clearance.jpg
The solenoid will be mounted to the rear of the door brace, with a good amount of clearance
between the glass, and door skin. I'm going to insulate the bolts to reduce the "thud" of the
solenoid when engaged.
solenoid_clearance.jpgsolenoid_clearance2.jpg

[LCD Gauges]

I think this door “thing” is figured out. The rails are mostly aligned with temporary bolts.
Cutting the original motor mount, and moving it over makes a nice, firm bolting point for
the left side rail.

The motor was powered up to test the movement; the sliders/clamps reach the bottom
without issue. Next is slipping the glass into place, and checking the travel with everything
setup.

It wasn’t too bad getting to this point afterall. I had envisioned more stress, and cursing
from what I’ve seen & read. The passenger door will be ¼ of the time now that I’ve got
a working model.

Having said that, I’m not out of the woods until the door is aligned, and the glass seals to
the body. That should take me until Summer to finish?

Took me two tries to get the right placement. Time to grind all the paint, and welds, then
give it some prime/paint. I'm not sure if anyone has tried this, but it seems like a great solution
for the bottom mounting point. Someone send me a nylon jam nut please!
2013-11-02 13.29.12.jpg