Bump steer adjustment problem

[eseethal]

Dear all, I need help! Fully motivated I ordered a bump steer kit from FFR to adress bump steer but it seems that the adjustment is not enough. There is quite a lot of toe in on compression and toe out in rebound. The curve is really not a curve but linear from toe in to toe out.
Even with 6 shims between the tie rod end it is still much to high. I did a bump steer measurement before installing it and there is no difference. I don't think the the setting length is higher than with the original part. Please see picture.
Here is a short video of the measurement through the suspension travel, quick&dirty, see the laser point on the garage wall: https://youtu.be/gL0RyjKDj3o
Am I missing something here? Is there another way to reduce toe in on compression? Raising the inner tie rod is probably not the easiest solution.
Thanks for your help!

Eugen


tie rods.jpg

[beeman]

My suspension is modified, but here is what my drivers side looks like so far (temporary setup with aluminum spacer, still playing with the settings)

Do you need a bigger stack of washers? Which steering rack do you have.

[Roger Reid]

I seem to remember the same thing on my GTM. Can you slide the dust boot of your steering rack outward and see the inside joint? Can that joint be adjusted outward? Can an extension be placed there to move the pivot outward?

[eseethal]

Thanks, for more washers the bolt is too short, even with the supplied 6 washers the self locking nut barely is flush with the end of the threads. I think it is the stock steering rack I use (I bought the kit partially complete and assembled). See picture of the steering rack.

My suspension is modified, but here is what my drivers side looks like so far (temporary setup with aluminum spacer, still playing with the settings)

Do you need a bigger stack of washers? Which steering rack do you have.

steering.jpg

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I believe that the original FFR bumpsteer kit came with extensions for the inner tie rod ends that moved the pivot point outboard.

[eseethal]

Shane, thanks, but unfortunately, no - there were no other parts in the FFR kit I ordered a year ago. But regarding this article (linked below) I should only move the linkage points downwards (at the wheel) or upwards (at the rack).

Bump_Steer.pdf

[beeman]

On my roadster, I used Breeze offset steering rack aluminum bushings to shift the location of the rack, I think the GTM uses the same (Ford Mustang) based rack? Has anyone tried that? They look like this

[eseethal]

Oh, wow, thanks, I did not know about the existence of these parts. Good idea!

[Jawerner]

any luck yet? I'm having the same issue

[eseethal]

Sorry, I gave up (other projects were more important) but I will start playing with my bump steer again sometimes this year.

[Jawerner]

Sorry, I gave up (other projects were more important) but I will start playing with my bump steer again sometimes this year.

I feel like the steering rack needs lifted up higher by my measurements. Then the rear tie rods need lowered some. I would like to hear from others before modifying.

[lance corsi]

Bump steer is indicative of the rack being mounted either too low or too high. Your tie rod should be about parallel with your lower a-arm. There are lots of other factors in play, but this will tell you if you’re close.
The imaginary line drawn from upper a-arm pivot thru the lower a-arm pivot should intersect your inner tie rod pivot.
An imaginary line drawn from the a-arm pivots thru their respective ball joint should intersect. This is your ‘aiming point’ for the tie rod alignment. An imaginary line drawn from the inner tie rod pivot should intersect with the outer tie rod pivot as it extends towards the ‘aim point’.

[HardRocker]

I believe that the original FFR bumpsteer kit came with extensions for the inner tie rod ends that moved the pivot point outboard.

Anyone have any pics of these extensions?

My bad, just googled these and there are a ton of them. I had never seen or heard of........