Holley Sniper + FFR inertia switch

[Randy's]

I want to integrate the FFR provided inertia switch with the Holley Sniper EFI system. I've researched it in the forum and found threads related to it but, being a wiring novice, I don't get it. I guess I need the "for Dummies" version. This is the shortest explanation of what needs to be done that I can find..."Wire the inertia switch between the fuel pump wire coming from the ground and the wire going to the pump itself. This way if it trips you don't lose power to your EFI system but power is cut to the pump." I get the concept, but need more direction.

There are two black wires coming out of the bottom of the inertia switch. Do I cut the connectors off each wire and splice them in to wires that are in the rear harness running to the gas tank or do they get spliced into wires in the Holley provided wiring? If so, which wires? I read something about it must be done before or after an existing relay? Are the two black wires coming from the inertia switch different or does it matter which wire goes where?

As always, thanks for your help.

[wallace18]

On your fuse panel locate the fuel pump relay. Use the Holley fuel pump wire to power the coil of that relay. That way all the rest of your wiring to inertia sw and fuel pump wire to tank can remain as is. That is how I wire Holley or FiTech.

[FF33rod]

Just building a little on Wallace18 - no it doesn't matter which wire goes where on the inertia switch, it just needs to be inline with something you're trying to control. However, what Wallace18 is suggesting means that you don't need to rewire the inertia switch, he's suggesting leaving it as is - it controls the ground to the fuel pump relay. He further suggests that the fuel pump relay output from the Sniper harness (a blue wire) be used to put +12V to the other side of the Ron Francis fuel pump relay to activate it. This way all the RF wiring for the inertia switch and fuel pump wires to the rear harness all remain the same. Does that make sense. Let us know if you need the detailed instructions on the fuse panel mod for the fuel pump relay...

Steve

[Randy's]

Guys,

Below is the advice I received concerning the Holley Sniper EFI. As instructed in item 3., I de-pinned the FFR fuel pump wire and pinned the blue fuel pump wire from the Holley harness in it's place. Are you saying that doing this is all I need to do? That the inertia switch, which is currently wired as instructed in the FFR instructions, will now turn off the pump if the switch gets activated? If so, item 7. does not need to be done?

Thanks.

1. Run the main power (red) and ground (black) wires directly to the battery
2. Connect the pink keyed +12v wire to any +12v keyed source (must have +12v when key is on and when cranking)
3. Connect the blue fuel pump control wire to your fuel pump (+) wire (I did this by de-pinning the fuel pump wire in the dash harness)
4. Connect the fan control (light blue) wire to one of the two green fan wires available (one near the top of the engine and the other at the bottom of the radiator).
5. Connect the coil wire (yellow) from the EFI to the (-) post on the coil
6. Connect your (+) post on the coil to any +12v keyed wire (typically the EFI/COIL (orange) wire in the RF harness)
7. Re wire the inertia switch to be in-line with the fuel pump ground wire (I still need to do this)
8. Install the CTS (if BPE didn't already do it) and connect the CTS plug from the EFI to the sensor

[Papa]

Guys,

Below is the advice I received concerning the Holley Sniper EFI. As instructed in item 3., I de-pinned the FFR fuel pump wire and pinned the blue fuel pump wire from the Holley harness in it's place. Are you saying that doing this is all I need to do? That the inertia switch, which is currently wired as instructed in the FFR instructions, will now turn off the pump if the switch gets activated? If so, item 7. does not need to be done?

Thanks.

1. Run the main power (red) and ground (black) wires directly to the battery
2. Connect the pink keyed +12v wire to any +12v keyed source (must have +12v when key is on and when cranking)
3. Connect the blue fuel pump control wire to your fuel pump (+) wire (I did this by de-pinning the fuel pump wire in the dash harness)
4. Connect the fan control (light blue) wire to one of the two green fan wires available (one near the top of the engine and the other at the bottom of the radiator).
5. Connect the coil wire (yellow) from the EFI to the (-) post on the coil
6. Connect your (+) post on the coil to any +12v keyed wire (typically the EFI/COIL (orange) wire in the RF harness)
7. Re wire the inertia switch to be in-line with the fuel pump ground wire (I still need to do this)
8. Install the CTS (if BPE didn't already do it) and connect the CTS plug from the EFI to the sensor

That's correct. If you wired the Sniper as you described, the inertia switch will work exactly as is; nothing to change.

[tony]

I'm in the same boat as Randy. I was going to put the inertia switch inline with the power wire from the holley sniper. this is news to me that we can actually just plug straight into the relay, which would be super clean. Looking
through the book, it does mention that we can cut the tan "jumper" on the fuse box and plug the EFI fuel pump wire straight into that. I've seen other posts that fellas have mentioned do NOT do that so I've disregarded it.



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[FF33rod]

Just like the FFR kits, there are options and a few different ways to wire this stuff in (probably more). With the method Wallace 18 and I described you don't have to rewire the inertia switch. With the method Randy described you don't have to play around with the RF fuel pump relay but you do have to rewire the inertia switch. Kinda your choice...

[gkp200]

On your fuse panel locate the fuel pump relay. Use the Holley fuel pump wire to power the coil of that relay. That way all the rest of your wiring to inertia sw and fuel pump wire to tank can remain as is. That is how I wire Holley or FiTech.

OK I'm trying to wire my sniper following these directions, but I'm confused. Do I cut the small jumper wire shown on page 22 in the wiring manual (and in Tony's post above) and connect the blue sniper wire to the wire I just cut?

[RJD]

Also consider the power draw of your fuel pump. One argument for bypassing the RF harness and running the Holley Sniper fuel pump blue wire all the way to the fuel pump is that the Holley Sniper fuel pump wire is 14AWG whereas the RF wire is 18 AWG.

I ran the the Holley Sniper blue wire into the cockpit through one of the firewall holes, and then back out to the rear of the car via the rear harness. I added a weatherpack connector behind the dash at this point so that I could disconnect the fuel pump there, which came in handy when I powered up the car but didn't want the fuel pump running. I removed the RF fuel pump relay from the fuse panel, and repurposed the original RF fuel pump wire in the rear harness as a trunk light power wire.

[gkp200]

Thanks RJD, I thought about that but then I also have to rewire the inertia switch and install a connector. I'm trying to keep it simple and take advantage of all the wiring already in place.