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Thread: Doug's Roadster Build #9423 Cockpit Modifications

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Doug's Roadster Build #9423 Cockpit Modifications

    After receiving my kit last September I finished up the restoration of my Uncle Harvey's 1936 John Deere BR farm tractor and a seemingly endless garage rehab I am finally ready to start the build. My brother in law came over and helped me remove the body and the fun started.20190515_200352.jpg
    Last year I bought a rear clip from a wrecked 2017 Shelby GT 350 that had about 2000 miles on it. The center section has the Torsen differential with 3.73 gears. I wanted the Torsen for road course lapping and the occasional autocross, we will see how the 3.73 gears work out. I drilled out the holes in the front bosses per the FFR instructions. After reading about some folks having trouble getting the center section aligned I used a 21/32 drill over the 5/8 called for in the instructions. Taking a cue form Paul Borror's, (a.k.a. Edwardb), 20th anniversary build log I decided to use the engine hoist to get the center section up into the frame. I placed two ratchet straps under the ears of the cover hooking them in the back and one ratchet strap around the pinion flange. Using the hoist I raised the assembly partially up into the frame. I then used the front ratchet strap to lift the pinion flange up and over the horizontal 4" tube. Using the hoist again I raised the assembly until I could get the rear bolts started. Using the front ratchet strap I lowered the nose until I could slip the front bolts in. I must be living right, am just plain lucky or the 1/32 over size holes I drilled allowed me to get everything aligned and installed with no trouble.20190518_115223.jpg20190518_122557.jpg20190518_122605.jpg20190518_122614.jpg20190518_122646.jpg20190519_121025.jpg20190519_121034.jpgOn to the next.
    Last edited by Kool AC; 05-30-2019 at 09:25 AM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Subscribed!

    I'm also interested to see what opinions are on the 3.73.

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Moving on to the IRS knuckles. Drilled out the tapered seat hole to 5/8".01.jpg
    The manual shows cutting the extended portion of the knuckle in a straight line. I chose to match the contour of the factory milling cutter.02.jpg
    Found a piece of round aluminum stock, tapped a hole through it and screwed it to the knuckle near the cut I wanted to make. resting the puck on the table of the band saw would keep the cut perpendicular to the machined face. Repeated this on the disc sander until the saw marks were cleaned up.03.jpg04.jpg05.jpg06.jpg07.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Next I turned my attention to the various unused drilled holes in the knuckles. I drilled them a little larger and turned aluminum plugs on the lathe that I could insert and loctite into the holes. After milling the plugs flush with the surrounding area the holes virtually disappear.08.jpg09.jpg10.jpg11.jpg12.jpg13.jpg14.jpg15.jpg
    Trimmed all the parting lines and flash from the castings, a quick trip through the glass bead cabinet and a couple coats of Eastwood Diamond Clear satin and the knuckles are ready.16.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Wanted to get the studs changed out in the IRS hubs next. The manual shows the original studs being driven out with a hammer, which would work, I used a press to extract them. It didn't take a whole lot of force to get them out. Based upon the amount of force it took to press the FFR supplied studs into the hubs I can see it would be troublesome and possibly cause damage to the stud or the lug nut doing it the way the manual shows. I recommend using a press if you have access to one.001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg
    After reading many posts about getting the proper caster angle when using power steering the consensus is you need to shorten the rear adjusting sleeve and studs on the upper control arm. To shorten the sleeves I chucked them up in the lathe and turned down the extended portion of the sleeve, which ended up being about .200" from each end. Did the same with three of the threaded studs taking off about .180" from the end. The fourth stud that needed to be shortened is welded to the ball joint boss so I just used a hacksaw to shorten it, and used a hand file to clean up the cut.005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg008.jpg
    Next I turned my attention to getting the ball joints installed into the control arms. It seems many have had trouble getting the FFR supplied Mevotech ball joints to thread all the way into the control arm. I read a post from Jeff Kleiner I believe, saying you have to clean the paint off of the threads with a wire wheel to get them to fit. I did this and both ball joints threaded all the way in with no problem. Not saying this would work in every case but it worked for me. Next I coated the inside of the adjusting sleeves with anti seize and did a rough alignment setting on the control arms and now they are ready for installation.009.jpg010.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Hey Doug. Hello to Armada. We're practically neighbors. You're doing some really nice work there. If you have any questions or need anything I can help with (not sure you need it...) give me a shout.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul, really appreciate it. Finally getting some nice weather here in Michigan. I'm sure I will need help sooner or later, probably sooner. Following all the builds on this forum over the last couple of years helps immensely. I keep your 20th anniversary build open on my tablet all the time. I refer to it just as much as I do the build manual.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Lower Control Arms

    Before I mounted the front lower control arms I wanted to modify the bushings. I think I remember a post from someone that attended the build school at Mott college saying that the instructors recommended cutting slots into the face of the lca bushings to allow grease to get to that area. Looking at the upper control arm bushings, slots are molded into the faces from the factory. So I decided it would be a good idea to duplicate this on the lca's.011.jpg
    I used a piece of steel tubing and turned a counter bore in one end to press over the head of the bushing. I then cut eight equally spaced slots into the face of the tube on the opposite side of the counter bore. I now had a tool i could use to help me keep the slots i cut into the bushings consistent.012.jpg
    After tapping the inner sleeve below the face of the bushing I installed the ring onto the bushing head aligning the slots on the tool with the slots on the i.d. of the bushing. Using a hacksaw with a 32 pitch blade sitting in two opposing slots I gave three or four strokes to cut the slot into the face of the bushing. Then did the other three slots. Repeated the process on the remaining seven bushings and set the inner sleeves back flush with the head. This whole process probably isn't necessary but I feel it was worth the time to do.013.jpg014.jpg015.jpg016.jpg017.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Man, this is a great build thread. You've obviously studied many previous builds, and I love your attention to detail & informative pictures. And I'm jealous of your tool collection!


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot John. Just hoping I can give a little back to the forum to pay for all the knowledge and great ideas I've seen here. Couldn't imagine building one of these cars without this forum.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Lower Control Arms cont.

    After checking the control arm mounting brackets welded to the frame were reasonably perpendicular to the 4" tubes I started fitting the control arms. The left front only needed a small bit of tweaking to get the bushings to fit between the brackets with no shims. With the front and rear bolts in place I measured the gap between the left rear bushings and brackets with a stack of feeler gauges. Turned out to be .100" on both. The right front needed a .080" shim and the right rear bushings needed .100" shims on both bushings. The FFR supplied flat washers/shims were about .139" thick, so onto the surface grinder they went to get them down to the required thickness. Assembled the control arms and shims to the frame and torqued the bolts to 100-110 ft lbs. per the manual.018.jpg019.jpg020.jpg021.jpg022.jpg023.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    F Panels and Front Suspension

    Started working on the F panels by tracing the frame rails on the back of the panel and laying out the hole spacing. Drilled and deburred the rivet holes and holes for riv-nuts along the flange to attach the splash guards at final assembly of the car. These will get powder coated with the rest of the panels later. Next, I altered the male and female rod ends per the manual, cutting the ends shorter using a parting tool on the lathe. Moving on to the hubs, removed the tone rings using a gear puller, not going to utilize abs so off they came. Then cleaned and coated the back of the hubs with POR15.
    To get the stabilizer bar bushing brackets to sit flush on the frame I had to mill part of the bracket away to clear the welds. I clear coated the brackets with the same Eastwood Diamond Clear I used on the IRS knuckles.
    Before assembling the springs on the shock absorbers I disassembled the hats and adjustment rings and coated all the parts with Sharkhide from a spray can. Reassembled the shocks and springs and mounted them to the frame after installing the upper control arms. I also coated the front face of the hubs with Sharkhide. This is the first time I've used Sharkhide, interesting stuff. There is virtually no film build so it can be used on parts with screw threads without causing any interference with the thread form. I think the spray can applicator is fairly new as Iv'e only seen it offered in quart cans before. Will see how it holds up.
    The spindles, hubs and steering arms went on next finishing up the front suspension assembly.024.jpg025.jpg026.jpg027.jpg028.jpg029.jpg030.jpg031.jpg032.jpg033.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Irs

    Moving on to the rear suspension. When threading the adjusting sleeve into the upper control arms the sleeve would bind up about a quarter of the way in. Perhaps the tap that was used was getting worn or the arms were welded after it was tapped and distorted form the heat. At any rate I was lucky enough to have a 1 1/4-12 tap at work and used it to chase the threads in both arms.
    Both upper and lower control arms received the same bushing head treatment as the front lower control arms, slotting the heads. When applying grease to the zerk fittings after assembly you can see the grease squirting out from the slots.
    The tabs on the toe arms were about a 1/16 of an inch to narrow to fit over the knuckle bearing. Bending the tabs enough to get over the bearing caused them to be way out and not parallel to each other. So I put a second bend between the first bend and the holes in the tabs getting them parallel and in full contact with the knuckle bearing. When assembling the toe arms to the frame there was a little too much for/aft play using the spacers provided by FFR, so I turned up a new set out of stainless steel a little wider to get the play out of the connection. When assembling the toe arm adjusting sleeve and rod end I ran both jam nuts up as far as they would go and screwed the sleeve and rod end in as far as they would go. Then, holding the toe arm I turned the adjusting screw out to an initial setting. This keeps the adjustment equal between the adjusting sleeve and rod end. Also did the same procedure for the camber adjustment on the upper control arms.
    I shortened up the anti sway bar rod ends the same way I did for the front bar, disassembled the shocks and sprayed them with Sharkhide before reassembling them with the coil springs, pressed in new seals in the differential housing and clear coated the bare metal on the half shafts with Eastwood diamond clear and finished the IRS assembly. 34.jpg35.jpg36.jpg37.jpg38.jpg39.jpg40.jpg41.jpg42.jpg
    Any of the small problems I had with the IRS assembly is in no way slamming FFR. I certainly expected some problem solving to be needed along the way of the build, and so far only very minor issues. I am really impressed with the quality of the components and workmanship provided by FFR on this kit. I consider myself very fortunate to be able to do something like this. Having a blast and enjoying every minute of the build
    Last edited by Kool AC; 06-23-2019 at 07:50 PM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Steering

    To mount the steering rack I didn't use the FFR supplied bushings but made my own out of 6061 aluminum similar to the Breeze units. Instead of making them adjustable I waited until I had the rack aligned then marked the holes in relation to the frame mounting tabs. To get everything centered up I started by getting the pinion centered to the rack, equal number of turns in both directions. Then I measured to the ends of the inner tie rods, split that dimension and put a mark on the steering rack housing. After that I aligned that mark with a mark I made on the center line of the frame then drilled the holes in the bushings and bolted the rack to the frame. Now I have the pinion centered in the rack, the rack centered to the frame and I have an equal number of threads in the outer tie rod ends with the wheel hubs pointing straight ahead.
    The next thing was to get the steering shaft mounted and the steering wheel clocked. I am using Russ Thompson turn signal assembly so I temporarily mounted it to the frame with a c-clamp. After countersinking the six screw holes that hold the steering wheel to the hub a little deeper to get the center cap to sit flush, I mocked up the whole system clocking the hub to Russ's turn signal and the wheel to the hub. To get this all lined up I oriented the steering shaft splined hub to the splined input shaft on the rack housing until I got the best orientation I could get.
    I didn't like the way the splined hub on the steering shaft fit on the rack input shaft. It only barely engaged the second spline after the relief cut on the shaft and was quite wobbly. I ended up grinding the inner shaft down flush to the end of the splined shaft to get more engagement with the splined hub. Then of course the set screw ended up below the relief cut so I ground a flat on the shaft for the set screw to tighten against. I ended up gaining almost another 5/32 of an inch engagement and the hub felt a lot more secure on the shaft.
    Lastly I tapped two 8-32 holes on each side of the upper steering shaft for set screws the will take any play out of the connection to the lower steering shaft. I got that idea from edwardb's 20th anniversary roadster build thread. Thank's Paul.
    43.jpg44.jpg45.jpg46.jpg47.jpg48.jpg49.jpg50.jpg51.jpg52.jpg
    Last edited by Kool AC; 07-02-2019 at 03:22 PM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Wilwood Brakes

    Decided to tackle the Wilwood brakes next. After assembling the rotors to the hats on the front brakes I went about safety wiring the bolts. Well, after a couple of hours and doing each pair of bolts at least twice I finally got it down to where I was satisfied with the results. The rear assemblies went much smoother.
    I wanted to mount the brackets for the flexible caliper hose fittings a little differently than the manual shows. I put a 90 degree bend in the front brackets and mounted them under the 3/4 tube. Cut a 7/8 inch hole in the f-panels to allow the fitting to come through. With the f-panels on its almost a flush mount, the hoses have no obstructions and have good clearance and length when turning lock to lock. The rear fitting brackets I left flat and mounted them a little further back than the manual shows. I think it gives a more direct routing to the caliper with no obstructions. Followed the Wilwood instructions to assemble the brake assemblies, Went very smooth.
    Assembled the Wilwood pedal box next and found the clutch pedal lever had a slight interference with the 3/4 inch tube that many others have documented. I marked where the interference was on the lever and milled out a portion of the ribbing to clear the frame. After reassembly the clutch pedal now goes all the way to the rear foot box wall. So far so good. Will be working on the parking brake next. Probably doing something similar to what edwardb did going over the 4 inch tube and then on to routing hard brake lines.53.jpg54.jpg55.jpg56.jpg57.jpg58.jpg59.jpg60.jpg61.jpg62.jpg
    Last edited by Kool AC; 07-14-2019 at 12:28 PM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Parking/Emergency Brake

    I wanted to utilize the FFR parking brake ratchet assembly and cables but like many others was not crazy about routing the cables under the 4" tube. As low as these cars sit I would be concerned about them getting tore up if you happened to bottom the car out. Having seen some good alterations on other posts I wanted to incorporate some ideas I had. I decided to use a bell crank arrangement to keep the pulling forces from the handle to the cables in some what straight lines. I started with some cardboard cut outs until I got the length and angle of the bell crank arms where I wanted them and another cardboard cut out of the pivot block to get the dimensions I needed for making them out of steel and aluminum. I used the vertical bracket welded to the 3/4 tube to mount the pivot block I made out of aluminum. Also turned a couple of stainless bushings to fill the holes where the screws went through the bracket. I then machined the bell crank arms out of mild steel and turned a hub to go between the arms and welded the three pieces together. Bored a pivot hole and pressed in a bronze bushing. I wanted to incorporate an equalizer between the rear arm and the cables similar to what the factory would do. Without the equalizer it's possible that only one caliper would lock up if there was any difference in pad wear or caliper adjustment. With the equalizer you are sure to get equal pressure on both calipers. I made triangular pieces out of stainless steel flat stock and drilled three holes in them to act as the equalizer. Next I turned the cable ends out of stainless and drilled a hole for the cable to be inserted. Drilled and tapped a 5/16-24 holes on either side of them to act as cable clamps. I made sure I drilled theses holes deep enough to get past the cross hole for the cable so that when the set screws were tightened they would actually push the cable down into them creating a very tight hold on the cable. Made a couple of tie rods out of 5/16 stainless steel and assembled everything with 5/16 rod ends form our friends at McMaster Carr and it worked very well. With the tie rods threaded a little longer than needed I have adjustment in the future for cable stretch.63.jpg64.jpg65.jpg66.jpg67.jpg68.jpg69.jpg70.jpg71.jpg72.jpg
    I tried to keep the whole assembly as tight as I could to the 1" tubes so there was clearance for the driveshaft. After setting the driveshaft into position it looks like I will have clearance. On the ratchet assembly itself I turned a couple of bronze pivot bushing to replace the nylon bushings that come with the kit. I also turned up a release button out of stainless to replace the aluminum button.
    In the interest of complete disclosure the first bell crank I made I got a little to happy with the lightening holes. When I really gronked on the parking brake lever the arms started buckling in the webbing around the holes. So I decided to make another set without the lightening holes and these worked out much better. All in all I think it worked very well. Maybe a little over kill but I had fun doing it and for me that's what the build is all about.
    Last edited by Kool AC; 08-08-2019 at 06:14 AM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Brake Reservoir

    I saw a roadster graduation thread posted by "DANW" some time back. He did a beautiful job on his roadster. One of the things I really liked is what he did with the brake reservoir mounted in the top of the foot box, so I decided to copy it. I purchased a small three chamber reservoir from Scott's Hot Rods, (not a supporting vendor). Mocked up a cardboard mounting bracket then transferred it to a piece of 14 ga. stainless steel, cut it out and bent it. Using right angle fittings for the brake cylinders the hose routings ended up being nice and short. The forward most chamber will be for the hydraulic clutch cylinder when its installed. I also made an extension piece out of aluminum to mount to the reservoir to extend the top so I didn't have a hole where the sheet metal surrounds it. After some careful trimming of the cover plate I installed a length of push on trim I purchased form McMaster Carr. With the trim I got a good snug fit all the way around the reservoir. 73.jpg74.jpg75.jpg76.jpg77.jpg78.jpg79.jpg
    I also wanted to do something about the way FFR blocked the slot in the front of the pedal box sheet metal where it is cut out to fit around the 3/4 tube. It looked a little Frankenstein-ish to me. I cut a piece of sheet stock to fill the opening and flush riveted it to a backing plate. The backing plate will then get riveted to the front of the foot box creating a nice flush mounting.80.jpg81.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Agreed DANW's build is amazing. Saw it in person at London. Two comments: Putting the reservoirs there is clean, that's for sure. I'm assuming you've checked body clearance. Gets a little close back there. Should be OK, but wondering. Also, I'd make absolutely certain you have a good seal. Hot air intrusion into the cockpit is a big deal. You want it positively sealed everywhere. You can feel even small leaks. For that other filler panel, what you did is nice. That area is almost invisible with the body installed and everything around it though. Not that I've ever spent time making something pretty that isn't seen. Keep up the good work!
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-18-2019 at 11:47 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    I did check body clearance as best i could without actually putting the body on, just using templates and measuring. Thanks for the thoughts on sealing everything up. I think I will want to seal the cover plate to the rest of the foot box due to the slight gap between them created by the heads of the riv nuts.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  25. #20
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Pedals

    Have been working on fitting and drilling panels lately. Continue to be impressed by how well they fit together and to the frame, very little tweaking. Also been working on the pedal box and pedals. I started by machining about .09" form each side of the brake and clutch pedal pad to gain a little more clearance between them and the other pedals. I definitely wanted a dead pedal for driving on the track and somewhere to rest my left foot for street driving. I purchased four pedal pads from Wilwood that match the brake and clutch pedals. I took .09" off each side and .38" from one end on each of two pedals and flattened them out in the press. I then machined a bracket from aluminum angle to mount the pads to. After riveting a stiffening panel to the side of the foot box I installed four 1/4-20 riv-nuts from thew outside of the panel.
    The riv-nut bosses will act as dowels to help keep the bracket stationary. The bracket is also butted up against the panel kick-out for even more stability.82.jpg83.jpg84.jpg85.jpg
    Turning to the Ford Coyote accelerator pedal I utilized the two remaining Wilwood pedal pads. I again machined .09" from each side and about .62" form one end of each of the two pads. Using a .15"x1.25" piece of stock I made small bends about every quarter of an inch to match the curvature of the Coyote pedal. I then turned up a boss and tapped a 1/4-20 thread all the way through and mounted it to the pad I made with a short piece of threaded rod. The tap in the other end gets a button head screw to secure the pad to the Coyote pedal assembly. Just to make sure the pedal didn't rotate I installed a 3/16" dowel to key the pad to the pedal assembly. Before mounting the pedal pads I traced the outline of the pad I made and trimmed the Coyote pedal assembly to match. 86.jpg87.jpg88.jpg89.jpg
    For the Ford Coyote clutch safety switch I did something similar to what Paul, (aka EdwardB), did on his anniversary roadster build. I made a bracket out of .09" stainless flat stock to mount the switch and a switch dog out of the same stock. Mounted the switch plate using the pedal box mounting screws and the switch dog to the clutch pedal adapter.90.jpg91.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  26. #21
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Trunk Mod's

    I wanted to use Russ Thompson's drop trunk mod to take advantage of the unused space above the fuel tank but I did not want the cross braces running through it. So I started by cutting the diagonal braces off the frame. Cut a piece of 1" square by 1/16" wall tubing to fit between the three hole flange plates that are welded to the frame. I then cut to length a piece of the 3/4" tubing I removed from the frame to fit between the new 1" tube and the rear 3/4" horizontal tube of the frame. On other piece of 3/4" tube I cut off the frame I cut two pie sections from the tube to create a 90 degree transition and welded them closed. This piece attaches to the underside of the new 1" tube and the rear lower 3/4" tube on the frame. This piece will run between the under side of the drop trunk box and above the fuel tank. As it turns out there is approximately 1/8" clearance below the trunk box and tube and about 1/8" clearance between the top of the fuel tank and the tube. After all the pieces were aligned, I welded it all together and coated all the new pieces.
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    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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  28. #22
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Very nice work. I'm personally not a fan of removing anything from the frame, and find in actual use those cross braces really aren't in the way. But understand some just want them removed, and yours is one that stands out as exceptionally well done. Beautiful welding too. With your fabrication skills, surprised you bought Russ's box instead of making your own.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Build is looking fantastic. Your e brake setup is a work of art!
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

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  32. #24
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Thanks guy's, I'm having a lot of fun on the build.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  33. #25
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Battery

    When deciding how and where I wanted to mount the battery I was not to keen on the FFR method of installing it in the upper trunk area. Would seem to have a pretty high center of gravity and take up a lot of valuable trunk space. Using the IRS there is no room for a conventional battery under the trunk. I considered the Breeze battery tray mounted in the engine compartment, nice option but did not really want to see it there, just personal preference. I did see an option I liked on Miller7448's thread where he used two 6 volt Optima batteries mounted in series under the trunk and behind the IRS center section so I decided I would try that approach. Of course I was already committed to this plan before Jeff Kleiner started a thread on cars equipped with Optima batteries were going dead while at his shop. Seems that the quality of these batteries has suffered after operations were moved to Mexico. So to cover my bets I plan on installing remote battery terminals and purchasing an Optima digital charger to keeo the batteries topped off when not using the car.
    Started with a sheet of .060 thick 5052 aluminum and cut out and bent the main part of the box. Then cut out and bent the sides. I didn't want the batteries sliding around in the box so I made a couple of nests out of UHMW to fit snugly in the bottom. Cut a piece of aluminum angle that will support the front of the box on the frame rail. Made corner tabs with nutserts for attaching a cover and made battery hold downs out of stainless steel. Installed 1/4-20 nutserts in the frame rails to mount the box to.
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    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Battery continued

    Made a terminal connector from a solid piece of copper and a cover out of the .060 aluminum. Also I wanted to get rid of the fuel tank strap connection from the inside of the trunk. I cut off the original bracket, made a duplicate of the bracket on the left side and welded it to the frame. Next I cut a 1 5/16 section out of the strap just below the eye and butt welded it back together. Just for a little insurance I plug welded a small plate to back side of the strap straddling the butt weld. Made a cover for the trunk sheet metal and riveted it in place.
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    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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  36. #27
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Evap Canister and Remote Battery Terminals

    I went with the Ford evap canister, part number CP2000, for the fuel tank with a couple of modifications. The inlets on the canister are for 1/4" and 3/8" i.d. hoses. I'm using the Breeze large bore breather vent that uses a 1/2" i.d. hose nipple. Not wanting to choke that down at the canister I cut both nipples off and plugged the smallest one. On the on the other, I tapped a 1/4 pipe thread and installed a 1/2 barbed nipple and connected the canister to the tank breather with a 1/2" i.d. hose.122.jpg123.jpg124.jpg125.jpg
    For grounding the starter battery to the frame I turned up an insert with a 3/8-16 tapped hole through it and welded it to the frame. I wanted a few more threads for the bolt than the just the frame tubing would give me. Made some cables to attach remote battery terminals to the battery. Purchased a remote battery terminal box from Summit Racing an cut the appropriate hole into the back wall of the drop trunk box.126.jpg127.jpg128.jpg129.jpg130.jpg131.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Fuel Lines

    When planning out the fuel line routing it didn't take much planning at all, pretty much copied edwardb's method in his 20th anniversary roadster build, thanks Paul. I made several aluminum clamps, three for the flat surfaces and four for mounting to the 4" frame tube. Copied these from one of the vendors on this forum and they worked out very well. Also made a new bracket out of stainless for the fuel regulator that mounts on the firewall. This allows for the Coyote wiring from the PDB to the PCM to be routed behind the regulator ans against the firewall.
    Using 3/8" stainless steel lines I started at the fuel filter with the feed and return lines and ended in the engine compartment. Ended up with one piece lines for both. Used Aeroquip Teflon braided lines and 6an fittings to connect the lines to the in tank fuel pump and the regulator.132.jpg133.jpg134.jpg135.jpg136.jpg137.jpg138.jpg139.jpg140.jpg141.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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  39. #29
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Fantastic work!
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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  41. #30
    TMartinLVNV's Avatar
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    Beautiful work. You are a true craftsman.

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  43. #31

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    Look great! I am going with ss lines and the same filter and pump hanger as you. I was planning on running ss lines all the way to the pump, I see you use braided lines there. Is it a bad idea to do what I was thinking?

  44. #32
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    I think generally you would want to use a flexible hose connection between two fittings if there is any chance of movement between those connections so as not to cause stress on the fittings and possibly eventual failure of the connection, but with the tank mounted to the frame and the lines clamped to the frame that should not be the case. Although, if the tank straps ever unknowingly came loose the tank could shift from side to side and stress the connections. I went the way I did for ease of installation, and peace of mind. I think it would also be easier to get one piece of tubing bent and fitted for fuel delivery and return terminating this way.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  45. #33
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Brake Lines

    I wanted to use stainless steel for all the hard brake lines. Bought two straight 8' sections and one straight 10' section from a local vendor along with the stainless fittings. I also purchased a Ridgid tubing bender and the turret style flaring tool to make the double flares at the tube ends. I got the flaring tool from Jeg's, looks identical to the one from Eastwood Tools and other vendors. Even with the stainless steel tubing it produced perfect double flares every time. Used the 8' sections to do the front lines and the rear line across the back and the 10' section form the rear master cylinder to the left rear caliper. I thought the 10" section was going to be more than enough but as it turns out I actually could have used another half foot. But it worked out.142.jpg143.jpg144.jpg145.jpg146.jpg147.jpg148.jpg149.jpg150.jpg151.jpg
    Last edited by Kool AC; 02-10-2020 at 07:25 AM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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    Initial Wiring Layout

    Started working on some of the wiring layout. I made a few cable clamps to hold the main battery cable and rear wiring harness that route through the trans tunnel. I also made an aluminum plate to mount the battery cut off switch. Below the firewall in the engine compartment I fabbed up an aluminum panel to cover the two vertical frame tubes above the tunnel and cut a hole for the cut off switch and mounted the main power fuse block to it. After all the wiring is laid out and all other systems are configured I will dismantle everything to get the aluminum panels out to powder coat and then begin final assembly.152.jpg153.jpg154.jpg155.jpg156.jpg157.jpg158.jpg159.jpg
    Last edited by Kool AC; 02-10-2020 at 07:24 AM.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  47. #35
    TMartinLVNV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kool AC View Post
    I wanted to use stainless steel for all the hard brake lines. Bought two straight 8' sections and one straight 10' section from a local vendor along with the stainless fittings. I also purchased a Rigid tubing bender and the turret style flaring tool to make the double flares at the tube ends. I got the flaring tool from Jeg's, looks identical to the one from Eastwood Tools and other vendors. Even with the stainless steel tubing it produced perfect double flares every time. Used the 8' sections to do the front lines and the rear line across the back and the 10' section form the rear master cylinder to the left rear caliper. I thought the 10" section was going to be more than enough but as it turns out I actually could have used another half foot. But it worked out.142.jpg143.jpg144.jpg145.jpg146.jpg147.jpg148.jpg149.jpg150.jpg151.jpg
    Wow, beautiful work! Looks better than factory.
    MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller

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  49. #36
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Gen. III Coyote Prep

    Started with taking the factory oil cooler off and installing the shorter oil filter adapter, Ford part no. AL3Z-6890-A, and using the same oil filter. Next up was removing the stock oil pan and replacing the oil pick up tube and oil pan with the Moroso pieces, pick up part no. 24570 and pan part no. 20570. The alternator and belt tensioner, Ford part no. M-8600-M50BALT, were assembled to the engine. When I purchased the roadster kit form FFR I also purchased the KRC power steering option from them. I replaced the stock flow control valve with a 4 liter per minute valve recommended various places on this forum and installed the system on to the engine. Easy installation, just be sure to get the pump bracket spacers in the correct location as there are two different heights. The Speedhut temp sensor was next. I purchased a 3/4 npt to 1/8 npt fitting to screw into the block thus eliminating one reducer bushing that the FFR instructions show. Assembled the heater bypass hose using the reducer bushing included with the Coyote fitment kit from FFR.
    The Speedhut oil pressures sensor needs to be installed while retaining the Ford pressure sensor for proper computer function. As mentioned in "edwardb's" Coupe build thread the stock oil pressure sensor has a m12x1.5 thread and the Speedhut sensor has a 1/8 npt thread. I machined a brass adapter that in conjunction with a 45 degree npt adapter will allow both sensors to be installed in the same port, similar to Paul's solution.
    I also referred to "edwardb's Coupe build thread for the CMCV and fuel pressure regulator vacuum source. There are two vacuum ports behind the throttle body, one with a 1/2" tube fitting and the other with a 3/8" tube fitting. I made up a small manifold and bracket with three 1/8 npt ports. Two of the ports will connect the 3/8" vacuum source to the CMCV vacuum port and the other will be used for the fuel regulator. The 1/2" vacuum port is capped off. I used one of the intake manifold screws to mount the manifold bracket.
    I also purchased a JLT oil separator for the engine. This helps keep crankcase blow by from going back through the intake manifold from the PCV system. I used the connection hose that came with the filter that goes to the PCV valve on the valve cover and cut the stock hose to attach the filter to the intake port. This ended up putting the filter in a nice location away from the power steering reservoir.
    Assembled the motor mount spacers per the FFR instructions and installed on the motor. I will be setting the motor into the frame temporarily so I can work out a bracket for the computer, fuel line connection, cable lengths, etc.160.jpg161.jpg162.jpg163.jpg164.jpg165.jpg166.jpg167.jpg168.jpg169.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  50. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kool AC View Post
    Next I turned my attention to the various unused drilled holes in the knuckles. I drilled them a little larger and turned aluminum plugs on the lathe that I could insert and loctite into the holes. After milling the plugs flush with the surrounding area the holes virtually disappear.08.jpg09.jpg10.jpg11.jpg12.jpg13.jpg14.jpg15.jpg
    Trimmed all the parting lines and flash from the castings, a quick trip through the glass bead cabinet and a couple coats of Eastwood Diamond Clear satin and the knuckles are ready.16.jpg
    I'm going to send you my knuckles to do the same and a frozen deep dish chicago pizza as payment.

  51. #38
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    Damn good skill set you have there!

  52. #39
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jiriza84641 View Post
    Damn good skill set you have there!
    Thanks man! Best of luck with your build. Reach out to me anytime if I can help. This forum is a great resource as you may already know.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

  53. #40
    Senior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    PCM, Wiring Harness, Wipers, Powder Coating

    I wanted to set the engine in the frame temporarily to get the PCM mounted in the proper location for the main wiring harness from the engine to reach and for setting other wire harness lengths. Made up a flat plate out of .09” aluminum and installed nutserts to mount the PCM. Also machined stand-offs to sit under the ears of the PCM. Very solid. I also did some dieting of the control pack wiring harness. First, I unwrapped the harness and removed the EPAS wiring, not needed. Moved the starter solenoid wire back to the firewall. This wire will run parallel to the 12-volt cable down to the starter solenoid. Also moved the cooling fan feed wire to behind the firewall. Will run this wire through the front harness to the fan. Then removed the ambient air temp sensor and intercooler pump connectors and wiring and re wrapped the harness with the same factory wrap I found at Inline Tube. On the O2 sensor harness I unwrapped and removed the connectors and wires for the two unused O2 sensors. Lengthened the wiring going to the left side O2 sensor and shortened the wiring going to the right side O2 sensor and re wrapped the harness.170.jpg171.jpg172.jpg
    Recently picked up a powder coating kit from Harbor Freight. Have been wanting to try this for some time now. The Harbor Freight kit actually had better reviews than the Eastwood kit and at about half the price. Pretty low cost to get started, figured I could upgrade later if I liked the process. Bought a 6 slice toaster oven and started with the hood hinges. Used a satin black powder similar to the car frame. Turned out very well. Now I’m powder coating everything that will fit into the oven.173.jpg
    In Michigan the law requires all vehicles to have windshield wipers. I picked up the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 form Speedway Motors as recommended by Paul, aka edwardb. Very simple and solid unit. I wired up and tested the motor and two speed switch. The motor parked consistently in the same spot. The instructions recommend mounting the unit with the cover accessible to service the unit which means mounting the motor on the back side. I attached rubber mounts on the four corners of the housing and cut out the firewall to clear the motor. With the unit mounted this way I will still have about a 4” deep glove box. Of course, I had to powder coat the frame and cover.174.jpg175.jpg176.jpg177.jpg178.jpg179.jpg
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Gen 3 Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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