Doug's Roadster Build #9423 Cockpit Modifications

[jiriza84641]

Thanks pretty sure ill reach out!

[jiriza84641]

Doug, the power window kit, is that how it comes it looks sleek and clean.

[Kool AC]

Doug, the power window kit, is that how it comes it looks sleek and clean.

It is a windshield wiper kit manufactured by Specialty Power Windows. Of course they also manufacture power window kits. The wiper kit comes as shown less the rubber mounts I added and in bare steel. I powder coated the frame and cover. Also included are the wheel boxes and shafts to mount the wiper arms that I did not show. Wiper arms and blades are not included in the kit but can be purchased from them.

[edwardb]

Very interesting take on the wiper motor installation. I never would have thought of mounting it that direction. I had to adjust the sweep on mine a couple times before I got it right, and just took the whole thing off each time. That sure would have been easier. One hint would be to make sure you seal up around that opening in the firewall. Hot air from the engine compartment will find even the smallest openings and feel like your heater is on during hot days. Make sure to pack it full of grease even before running very much. Will be very interested to see how it sets up on your Roadster. Sure works well on my Coupe. Just like OE wipers, which you can't say for the Lucas version.

[Kool AC]

Yeh Paul, I think it will work great, although I hope I'll never have to use it. Forgot to mention I plan on sandwiching some foam rubber between the firewall and motor frame at final assembly to keep the hot engine bay air out.

[BMR12]

This is great work on the fabrication. I'm definitely not anywhere near that level! Great ideas to keep in mind for when I eventually start mine.

[Kool AC]

This is great work on the fabrication. I'm definitely not anywhere near that level! Great ideas to keep in mind for when I eventually start mine.

I studied build threads on this forum for over a year gathering ideas before I purchased my kit. I think you will be suprised what you can do when you start your build.

[Kool AC]

After reading several threads about the TKO transmissions shifting weaknesses at high rpm, I wanted to make improvements to my TKO-600 before I installed it in the car. Stopped by Liberty’s Gears and purchased their “Upgraded/Synchronized Component Kit”. Before tearing into the trans I downloaded the TKO Parts Catalog and the TR-3550/TKO Service manual from Liberty’s Gears website. The catalog and manual are also available on the Tremec website, just easier to find on Liberty's site. I also watched a very good YouTube video by Paul Cangialosi on his “Gearboxvideo” channel. He completely dismantles and rebuilds a TKO transmission.
The kit includes three carbon fiber lined synchronizer blocking rings for 2nd,3rd and 4th gears, six bronze shift fork pads, a modified 1st/2nd shift rail and spring, modified shift finger, stock blocking rings for 1st and 5th, roll pins and o-rings.
I dismantled the trans enough to get the output shaft assembly out of the case and replaced the 2nd, 3rd and 4th synchro blocking rings on the assembly. On the trans cover I replaced the 1st/2nd shift rail and detente spring with the kit parts. Next, I pried off the nylon shift fork pads and replaced them with the bronze pads from the kit. Lastly, I replaced the shift selector finger with the one in the kit. After cleaning all the mating surfaces it was time for reassembly. The manual says to use anaerobic sealant on all mating surfaces. My trans was originally assembled with RTV sealant on all surfaces except for the front bearing retainer which they used the anaerobic sealant. So, I decided to reassemble it the same way. All in all, the upgrade went very smooth. The only place I deviated from the manual was to remove the front bearing retainer and the input shaft assembly as one unit instead of individually as the manual shows. Not a very difficult job, just be sure to keep everything very clean when reassembling.
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[edwardb]

Very cool. I've had Liberty's Gear do their upgrade on both TKO's I've used and they shift very nicely. Interesting to see the actual parts used. I would never try to do it myself. Way to go.

[Rsnake]

How much were the upgraded parts? Might do this as I am not thrilled with how mine shifts.

[Kool AC]

How much were the upgraded parts? Might do this as I am not thrilled with how mine shifts.

The kit was $350. Does not show up on their website. You can call them at 586-469-1140. Got a skeleton crew there now, but may be able to send out a kit.

[Rsnake]

Thank you. Now I just need to figure out if it's worth pulling the transmission and doing.

[sread]

Yeah, I just watched that same video on youtube a couple days ago...that guy is good - he makes it look so easy - well, not that easy, alot of parts that need to go back in the exact order. Been trying to decide if I want to tackle it.
Hey, how do those new bronze shift fork pads go in? do they just press on?

[Kool AC]

Yeah, I just watched that same video on youtube a couple days ago...that guy is good - he makes it look so easy - well, not that easy, alot of parts that need to go back in the exact order. Been trying to decide if I want to tackle it.
Hey, how do those new bronze shift fork pads go in? do they just press on?

Yes, you can pry the original nylon fork pads off easily and the new bronze pads press on. I used parallel jaw pliers to press them on but a c-clamp would work just as well.

[Kool AC]

Started with installing the roller pilot bearing Ford part no. M-7600-B into the crank. Set the bell housing backing plate on the dowels and mounted the flywheel, Ford Performance part No. M-6375-G46A mounted on to the crank with an ARP bolt kit No. ARP-156-2801 torqued to 70 lb/ft. Next, on went the clutch disc and pressure plate, Ford Performance part no. M-7560-T46 mounted to the flywheel with Ford bolt and dowel kit part no. M6397-B46. The clutch is actually manufactured by Centerforce Clutches. Mounted the Quicktime RM-6080 bell housing using the supplied bolts. I did check runout of the transmission pilot bore and mounting face of the bell housing prior to installing the clutch. Ended up with .007” tir runout on the bore and the face. A little more than I would have liked but still within tolerance. 190.jpg191.jpg192.jpg193.jpg
Next was the Tilton 6000 series hydraulic release bearing, part no. 60-6102. The instructions call for a .125” gap between the face of the release bearing and the clutch release fingers. After measuring for this gap, the bearing retainer was only threaded into the bearing with about one or two threads. Turned up a ¾” long spacer on the lathe to be able to thread the retainer into the bearing farther. The instructions also state that a clutch pedal stop must be used. Wanted something adjustable so I made up a stop that mounts to the ¾” tube that runs between the clutch and brake pedal. Once the trans is installed I will set the location of the stop and drill a ¼” hole in the tube to mount it. Will be using a 13/16” bore master cylinder per the Tilton Instructions.194.jpg195.jpg196.jpg197.jpg
Reading several roadster build threads the general consensus seems that a ¾” transmission mount spacer is needed to get the correct pinion angle with the Ford Coyote -TKO assembly. Machined up a spacer out of aluminum and later powder coated it. The whole engine/trans assembly is now ready for installation.198.jpg199.jpg

[Kool AC]

After disassembling all the aluminum panels and getting them to the powder coater, I decided to tackle the dash and glove box. I started with the FFR blank dash and laid out the gauges similar to the Cobra competition layout adding the switches I wanted to use. I added an oil temp gauge and moved the clock towards the glove box. I turned up an extra bezel to fit behind the clock to set it off from the gauges and give it its own personality.
For the glove box itself I modeled one up in CAD and emailed the file to a local company called Thingsmiths to have it 3D printed. Received it a couple of weeks later. I think it worked out quite well. Made a set of hinges, door, inside catch and used the VW latch to finish it off.
I radius-ed the ends of the dash using the sheet metal brake making 30, 3-degree bends .21” apart to create a 4” radius 90-degree bend. I believe the small bends in the aluminum will not be noticeable after the dash is covered with 1/8-inch foam and leather. Bent a flange and drilled a hole on each end of the dash to attach it to the brackets I made and riveted to the frame.
Once I am sure I won’t need any more holes in the dash I will cover it with the 1/8 foam and black leather.
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[Kool AC]

I started the brake bleeding process by disconnecting the front and rear lines from their master cylinders and made up short lines to pass the fluid back into their respective reservoirs. With the reservoirs full of brake fluid I pumped the brake pedal a few times until no more air bubbles came from the end of the lines, (bench bleeding). Then I reconnected the front and rear brake lines. I wanted to try vacuum bleeding with the Mityvac MV8500 vacuum/pressure gun since I did not have a helper to pump the peddle. I attached a hose and catch cup to the upper bleeder screw at the caliper and pulled a vacuum. This did work pulling fluid through the lines but was also sucking air around the bleeder screw so it was hard to tell if I had evacuated all the air from the line and caliper. So I decided to use the pressure side of the gun. I turned up a cap on the lathe and threaded the inside with a 1 3/8-20 thread. On the other side of the cap a 1/4 npt and screwed a hose barb into it. Made up a rubber washer for a seal and connected it to the gun with a piece of clear hose. After filling the reservoir with fluid I screwed the cap onto the reservoir and pumped about 10 psi of pressure and opened the upper bleeder screw at the caliper. This worked very well. Repeated this at every caliper and when done I had a very firm brake pedal.
Since I plan to track the car I wanted to be able to adjust the brake bias easily at the track if needed. I purchased the Wilwood 340-4990 brake bias adjuster and a Tilton 72-560 balance bar coupler form Summit Racing. I milled up a two-piece bracket to be able to mount the adjustment knob to the 2” square frame tube behind the firewall. This put the adjuster within easy reach from the seat. I cut the adjuster cable to length and mounted everything up. I may never actually use it but I wanted to have it In case I do.210.jpg211.jpg212.jpg213.jpg214.jpg215.jpg216.jpg217.jpg218.jpg219.jpg

[Caddy Dad]

PM sent. Thanks!

[Kool AC]

I know it’s been awhile since my last update. Been working on the roadster, just not taking the time to snap many photos or update the thread. So just a quick update.
I took the aluminum panels in to get powder coated to a place I have used before. They did a great job at a very reasonable price. I am installing Dynamat on almost all of the panels along with Dynaliner in the footboxes to keep engine heat out of the cockpit.
The engine/trans install went very smooth. I worked by myself and just took my time. That Coyote sure is a tight fit. Installed the driveshaft and a Metco safety loop afterwards. I used a 3/4 inch spacer under the tail of the trans to obtain the proper drive line angle. The same as many others have posted on this forum that have installed the Coyote with the Tremec TKO. I made up a stainless steel bracket for the Moroso degas tank and installed a Spectre 4” cold air intake.
Next up was the instrument panel. I first glued 1/8 foam, (thanks to Paul, aka edwardb for the idea), on the panel and cut out the gauge and switch holes. I purchased a full hide of black dyed leather from a vendor on ebay. cut out an oversized piece and glued it to the panel over the foam. After some more tedious cutting, trimming, stretching and gluing I think it came out quite well.
I did start the wiring by running wires to the turn signals and head lamps but I will show more of that along with the dash wiring on the next update. Looking forward to first start soon!
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[Kool AC]

I started on the dash wiring by modifying some of the connector legs from the Coyote wiring harness. I separated the mil from the OBDII connector and shortened up the legs on them. I also shortened the legs on the clutch pedal travel and pigtail connectors. I ran the orange fan wire through the firewall and spliced into the blue fan wire in the front harness. Then mounted the Ron Francis fuse panel and started on the dash wiring. Main power wiring runs through a master disconnect switch to the fuse panel. The main alternator wire has a 150 amp fuse between the alternator and fuse panel. I also added a 10 ga. wire from the coyote PDB to a 4 position fuse panel I mounted to the frame to give hot at all times power to the gps speedometer and the clock. Working on the Ron Francis wiring harness I removed the hot rod connector and associated wiring per the manual. I shortened up the wiring going to the headlight and ignition switches taking out about 12” of wire to get them to a good position to mount them to the dash. I also made up a center dash brace to mount an “IDIDIT” high beam/low beam switching relay and “Powerwerx” USB and cigarette lighter sockets. The switching relay works in conjunction with the Russ Thompson turn signal high beam toggle button on the stalk. Easy to wire and works perfectly. I used the kit supplied toggle switch for the hazard flasher and a kit supplied switch for the relay in the in the fan circuit I am using for the Powerwerx outlets. Since I am letting the Coyote control the fan, I am using the Ron Francis fan circuit for the power outlets. Since I am not using the speedo sense wires for the speedometer, I am using that circuit for a backup light. Got a TKO trans connector from Summit and used the speedo sense wires that come out of the rear harness right next to the switch on the trans. I also ran wires for a third brake light and trunk courtesy light. Mounted the OBDII socket to the frame on the passenger side and the inertia switch to the firewall and wired up the windshield wiper motor. Next wired up the dash itself adding the Russ Thompson turn signal wiring and seat heater power wiring utilizing the heater circuit from the fuse panel. Mounted the dash and plugged in all the connectors and everything is working as it should.
I wired the engine oil pressure, water temp and oil temperature sensors using the supplied engine wiring harness adding the alternator and tach signal wires. I spliced into the No. 7 cylinder coil wire for the tachometer signal. Calibrated the fuel gauge and tachometer per the Speedhut instructions. With all that done I had no excuses not to try staring the engine. Put about 5 gallons of premium in the tank and jumped the fuel pump relay to set the fuel pressue to 65 psi. Turned the key and let it crank about five seconds, nothing. Turned the key a second time and let it crank about another five seconds and just before I let go of the key it fired up and idled smoothly with good oil pressure. Boy did that feel good! Let it idle until the fan kicked on. After about a minute or so the fan did its job and shut off. The fan cycled a couple more times after letting the engine idle for a while. Checked accelerator pedal response and all is good.
To complete the wiring I am using Deutsch connectors for the running lights, brake lights and headlights.
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[Caddy Dad]

Congratulations on first start. You've got an awesome build going there. Impressive work!

[Kool AC]

Congratulations on first start. You've got an awesome build going there. Impressive work!

Thanks Frank, enjoying every minute of this build.

[jiriza84641]

Started with taking the factory oil cooler off and installing the shorter oil filter adapter, Ford part no. AL3Z-6890-A, and using the same oil filter. Next up was removing the stock oil pan and replacing the oil pick up tube and oil pan with the Moroso pieces, pick up part no. 24570 and pan part no. 20570. The alternator and belt tensioner, Ford part no. M-8600-M50BALT, were assembled to the engine. When I purchased the roadster kit form FFR I also purchased the KRC power steering option from them. I replaced the stock flow control valve with a 4 liter per minute valve recommended various places on this forum and installed the system on to the engine. Easy installation, just be sure to get the pump bracket spacers in the correct location as there are two different heights. The Speedhut temp sensor was next. I purchased a 3/4 npt to 1/8 npt fitting to screw into the block thus eliminating one reducer bushing that the FFR instructions show. Assembled the heater bypass hose using the reducer bushing included with the Coyote fitment kit from FFR.
The Speedhut oil pressures sensor needs to be installed while retaining the Ford pressure sensor for proper computer function. As mentioned in "edwardb's" Coupe build thread the stock oil pressure sensor has a m12x1.5 thread and the Speedhut sensor has a 1/8 npt thread. I machined a brass adapter that in conjunction with a 45 degree npt adapter will allow both sensors to be installed in the same port, similar to Paul's solution.
I also referred to "edwardb's Coupe build thread for the CMCV and fuel pressure regulator vacuum source. There are two vacuum ports behind the throttle body, one with a 1/2" tube fitting and the other with a 3/8" tube fitting. I made up a small manifold and bracket with three 1/8 npt ports. Two of the ports will connect the 3/8" vacuum source to the CMCV vacuum port and the other will be used for the fuel regulator. The 1/2" vacuum port is capped off. I used one of the intake manifold screws to mount the manifold bracket.
I also purchased a JLT oil separator for the engine. This helps keep crankcase blow by from going back through the intake manifold from the PCV system. I used the connection hose that came with the filter that goes to the PCV valve on the valve cover and cut the stock hose to attach the filter to the intake port. This ended up putting the filter in a nice location away from the power steering reservoir.
Assembled the motor mount spacers per the FFR instructions and installed on the motor. I will be setting the motor into the frame temporarily so I can work out a bracket for the computer, fuel line connection, cable lengths, etc.Attachment 123403Attachment 123404Attachment 123405Attachment 123406Attachment 123407Attachment 123408Attachment 123409Attachment 123410Attachment 123411Attachment 123412

What part is the picture in #7. with the black cylinder and 3 ports. do you have a part number?

[Kool AC]

What part is the picture in #7. with the black cylinder and 3 ports. do you have a part number?

That is a small manifold I made up for the intake manifold vacuum lines. You can see it installed in the upper right hand corner of photo #8. You can do pretty much the same thing using a tee fitting.

[ggunter]

Hi Kool AC, I have had a slow day at work today and read your entire build thread and I am so impressed in your fab skills and love your engineering abilities. Obviously you have a lot of experience in machining and automotive abilities. Your fix for the e brake is beautifully complicated but I bet it works beautifully as well. FFR should hire you as an engineer.

[Kool AC]

Thank you for the kind words. I'm a mechanical engineer by day in the gaging field and a part time machinist after hours. I hope you are having as good a time on your build as I am having on mine!

[GoDadGo]

Very Nicely Executed!
I wish I had your knack for wiring!
Congratulation on your to this major milestone of your first start!

[Kool AC]

I wanted the convenience of cup holders, but I didn’t want to see them when not in use. I decided to make a box with a hinged cover and recess it into the trans tunnel cover. The first thing I did was cut out part of the angled brace above the trans and weld in new cross pieces to make room for the box. I fabricated a box and hinged cover and installed it to the trans tunnel cover. Next I machined up the actual cup holders out of a piece of blue uhmw. Blue, for no other reason than that’s what I had available. The cup holder will hold two Yeti tumblers side by side. The cup holders nestle inside the box and can be easily removed if I wanted to use the box for storage. I used a magnetic spring latch for the cover so when closed it looks nice and clean.
To hold the trans tunnel cover in place I bonded a piece aluminum to the underside front of the cover that will catch under the lip of the “A” shaped piece of aluminum that’s riveted under the dash. To hold down the rear of the cover I mounted a 45 lb. pull magnet to the frame and bonded a piece of steel to the bottom of the cover that lands over the magnet. It takes a pretty good tug to release the cover from the magnet, should be all right.
I wanted trunk access from the cockpit for storage of small items so I cut a 5” x 14” hole in the back wall. Made up a set of hinges and door and used the same style magnetic spring latch to keep the door closed. I’ll probably make up a small removable partition in the trunk later for a storage area.
I mounted a 1lb. fire extinguisher to the panel behind the tunnel cover and an original style ash tray in the cover. The cockpit will of course all be covered in leather and carpeting later.
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[Papa]

Slick design for the cup holders! Well done.

[mosh1999]

Love the magnetic spring latch for the cup holder lid.