-
Senior Member
I talked to tech support again this morning. Have a few things to look for in the dash boards, and then some ways top change fuel set point to alter the behavior of the injectors.
I do have a return line and an in tank pump. Th.e O2 correction % is way to high currently
I also learned that you can override a flooded bowl by keeping the pedal down all the way. This over rides the injectors and will clean it out for a restart. Before I was blowing the bowl out with compressed air to speed things along.
I got the instructions out and I'm going through them step by step on Monday to make sure everything is as it should. Hopefully this will help getting a better result by the end of it.
Also have to buy the timing pointer and set the timing. That should help too.
Tech did say that it would work better if the O2 sensor could read 4 cylinders which in the Coupe is impossible unfortunately.
John
-
Senior Member
I wouldn't waste anymore time on the efi til you get the timing set. Timing is always the first thing to get right in any tuning scenario. And since you are getting a new pointer you need to check it's calibration to be sure TDC is actually TDC. Do that w/ a rod of some type (I use a piece of 1/4 inch wood dowel) going into the #1 plug hole. The passenger side front most plug. Search youtube for instructions. Once timing is correct, be careful about adjusting the idle speed. I am not familiar w/ your efi but a couple of times it seems as if you adjusted it down while the engine was still cold. Generally speaking idle speed would be adjusted at the throttle plate when warm and the efi would have another system to provide a higher idle when cold.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
John,
Do you have any friends with an old Holley or Edelbrock carb lying around that you might be able to borrow?
It would need to be regulated down to about 6-7 PSI, but you might be able to get your timing spot on before going back to sort out the F/I system.
Just a thought from the Peanut Gallery located down here in the swamp.
Steve
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
Not a waxer
I'm with Craig; if you haven't properly set the timing you're just chasing your tail. Flooding a fresh engine repeatedly will assure that it is short lived.
Good luck,
Jeff
-
Senior Member
So what timing do I set it too?
My cam info is:
Intake duration 224 degree
Exhaust duration 234 degree
Intake lift 496"
Exhaust lift 520"
Lobe separation 112 degree
Vacuum 11"
Thanks,
John
-
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
John Dol
So what timing do I set it too?
My cam info is:
Intake duration 224 degree
Exhaust duration 234 degree
Intake lift 496"
Exhaust lift 520"
Lobe separation 112 degree
Vacuum 11"
Thanks,
John
On similarly cammed SBC, some place between 10-14 is good for the initial set up with the the vacuum advance disconnected if you have one.
I'm assuming it would be in the same for a SBF; however, like Jeff said "Flooding a fresh engine repeatedly will assure that it is short lived."
I wish I could help more, but I'm not a fan of after market Fuel Injection simply because I've never messed with them in any shape or form.
Last edited by GoDadGo; 06-02-2019 at 02:01 PM.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
Senior Member
Thanks gents sound advice as usual!
John
-
Not a waxer
Yep, 10 before is a good starting point.
Jeff
-
Senior Member
Just for further clarification, the engine was timed by Mark Dougherty without the pointer so just by ear, so it wasn't completely blind.
I ordered a TDC indicator and stop so I can get proper TDC. Also got a timing tape from MSD. Won't be here till Thursday so the wait is on.
-
Senior Member
timing pointer block.jpg
Timing pointer installed.jpg
Wish I had done this when Mark was there many moons ago. Maybe I wouldn't be having these issue now, but alas I got my timing indicator installed today. Had to cut of the square block for the indicator to fit. But now its adjustable for when I find TDC some time this week.
John
-
Senior Member
Talked to tech support again today, and their reply was that the self tuning systems have a hard time with the short exhaust system drawing in false air. Will never work according to him.
Recommended changing the brain to a XFI street computer that then has to be tuned with a laptop. $630 later...
So continue with this or invest in a carb (about similar investments), that is the question!
John
-
Senior Member
I feel for you; it took me over a year to finally get my 1996 4.6L SOHC engine to run correctly. And it's still not perfect.
Call me skeptical, or just ignorant, but I can't believe that running side pipes could cause all this trouble. Could you test the theory by stuffing some baffles into the exhaust pipes or header, creating more back pressure? I actually installed spiral baffles in my side pipes to soften the exhaust bark. I think it sounds much better.
Good luck
-
Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Originally Posted by
John Dol
Talked to tech support again today, and their reply was that the self tuning systems have a hard time with the short exhaust system drawing in false air. Will never work according to him.
Recommended changing the brain to a XFI street computer that then has to be tuned with a laptop. $630 later...
So continue with this or invest in a carb (about similar investments), that is the question!
John
Tough Decision For Sure!
The problem is nobody can tell you for sure if you will be throwing good money after bad.
For What It Is Worth In My Line Of Work Your First Lost Is Your Best Or Smallest Loss!