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Thread: What to do while waiting on the engine...

  1. #1
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    What to do while waiting on the engine...

    Hey all - looking for some thoughts and/or advice on an MK4 build.

    For budget reasons I'm waiting to buy an engine for a few months but I hate to just sit idle on the build.

    So the basic question is... What sort of things can one finish up or make headway on prior to getting the engine and transmission dropped?

    A very general idea of where I am right now:
    - I have the front end suspension and brakes on.
    - I have the rear end solid axle (3 link) on. Like a lot of current builders, I'm just going to wait for the rear calipers.
    - The brake lines are run.
    - Power steering rack is on.
    - The steering shaft is installed.
    - Radiator is mounted with the Breeze after market kit and modifications.
    - I have tires and wheels ordered and in.
    - I have the RF wiring harness in the car and zip tied in place.
    - I have assembled the dash and wired it. The dash is not attached to the car nor is it attached to the wiring harness.
    - The fuel tank is in but the fuel lines are not run - the engine I'm buying has a fuel pump that comes with it so I'm waiting for all that before running the lines.
    - Passenger side footbox aluminum is assembled and riveted.
    - Driver side footbox aluminum is mostly assembled. The pedal box and pedals are assembled.
    - E-brake handle is assembled and the lines are run.

    So I'm looking for suggestions on things that would not be too out of place at this point. I'll throw a few thoughts out here and see if people think they are advisable:
    - Start on the body? The body has cutouts already, but what sort of things need to be done to enable me to drive in the gel coat for a while when the engine does get put in.
    - I'd like to get some of the aluminum panels on, but I want the car to be as accessible for things like final fit of the wiring harness, fuel lines, engine, trans.... Any ideas on what aluminum could be placed and what I should stay away from?
    - Alignment? Can I do some work on that before the engine gets in or will the engine and transmission placement nullify any work I end up doing?
    - Electrical? I haven't done anything with a battery.
    - I guess depending on how far the aluminum goes, maybe sound barrier and carpet?
    - Grease all the parts with fittings?

    It's gonna be a long few months.

  2. #2
    Papa's Avatar
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    Some thoughts:

    1. Run the fuel supply line from the engine compartment to the filter
    2. Run the fuel return line if your using one
    3. Fit and drill all the remaining aluminum panels
    4. Put connectors on for all the lighting
    5. Mount the body and fit your seats, windshield, roll bar(s)

    That should keep you busy for a while.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by welske View Post


    It's gonna be a long few months.
    Following, how long did it take you to get that far? I’ll most likely be waiting on the engine as well. .

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the suggestions! - I think the aluminum panels are definitely one thing I'll start to tackle soon.

    My 15-year old son and I have been weekend warriors and week night working since mid-March. Prior to that we did some prep-work prior to delivery - made a body buck and chassis dolly and that sort of thing. It has been a lot of fun and there is a ton to go.
    But I think at this point we could probably start engine stuff if engines grew on trees next to $100 bills.

  5. #5
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    You can do pretty much all the aluminum. I would install the driver footbox top cover and left side drill all the holes but only put a few rivets in or clecos if you are using them, and then remove them. Also make the top of the trans tunnel easy to remove as it's nice to be able to reach down there to help the trans tail and drive shaft fit together as it goes in. Read a couple of build threads about marking and trimming panels such as the rear cockpit, dash, You actually can do a full alignment. Adjust the ride height to where you want it and align. Once all the weight is added, you will need to adjust the height back to your preference. As long as height is the same as it was, the alignment will be the same as it was. fuel lines could be run. Is the pump a mechanical pump on the engine? If so it's easy to find pics of where the lines need to be. If it's an inline electric pump, it will have 6 inches of rubber hose on either side so again, pretty easy to figure where it goes and run the solid lines close by.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  6. #6
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    I would think that you could build the whole car. Yup, some advanced planning will be required and a few panels should be located but not riveted. There will be other parts that may be better as removable as well. As Craig indicated leave extra hose, wire and a few other items that need to fit to the motor and trans.

    Lots of cars have had motors swapped after completion. The beauty of this approach is that once you get the motor, a really expensive part, you can drop it in and turn it on within a short time. I think too many builders have a motor sitting & waiting for a long time, eating up whatever warranty they have. Same thing for tires - expensive items with a shelf-life.

    Jim

  7. #7
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    Get the aluminum rear wall and trunk wall aluminum in place then start on your body work. That will take you plenty of time. Just wait on your motor to do the exhaust cut outs.

  8. #8
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    Great suggestions all around. I think this weekend I will go ahead and run a fuel line and get started with the panels. Thanks again for the suggestions! I was hoping to hear there wasn't any big hangup with me to just keep plugging away at some tasks and it looks like that is the case. Sometimes you just want to hear from experienced dudes that you aren't aiming at your foot.

    I know the fuel pump that comes with the engine I've picked is an electric Holley Red. I read up about it a while ago and seem to remember that it needs to be mounted lower than the tank (gravity fed) near the tank at the rear of the vehicle. The engine manufacturer (Blueprint) recommended 3/8" fuel lines so I guess I can at least run a 3/8" hard line down the passenger side frame tube and then on to some rear aluminum.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I agree that you can do just about everything except for engine bay wiring.

  10. #10
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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