I have the regular gauges NOT the Vintage variety.
My question is in addition to the pre-drilled holes, how many others do I need to cut to accommodate other devices?
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I have the regular gauges NOT the Vintage variety.
My question is in addition to the pre-drilled holes, how many others do I need to cut to accommodate other devices?
MK IV Roaster, Complete Kit
Planning on Coyote,TKO600, 2015 12.88# IRS,Wilwood BrakesHalibrand Wheels
There is no one answer to this question. I suggest you come up with a layout based on where you want your gauges and switches to suit your needs before drilling any holes. I wanted as few things in the dash as possible. I went so far as to mount my hazzard switch and wiper switch under the dash as those will not (hopefully) be used on a regular basis. Others want the look of an aircraft's cockpit and have many switches, etc. on their dashboards. Bottom line, make a plan before you start cutting or drilling anything.
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I agree with Papa. There is no set answer. Some people like busy dashboards, some like the simple and clean, some like to replicate an original. Even for that, you have to pick one particular original as there were many different layouts. I like them on the plain side myself. I have lots of buttons, switches, power points, etc on my under dash panel.
There are some show me your dashboard threads with lots of pictures to help you decide.
Well, what other devices do you have planned?
I think FFR's current dash, already has three switch holes pre-drilled? Ignition, cooling fan switch and headlights, are what I believe the original idea was for those.
Many builders have a dash mounted turn signal switch, rather than on the column, so there's another hole. Horn, Wiper, heater, and a hazard switch are pretty common. Do you want a power outlet, driving lights, gauge light dimmer switch, footbox courtesy lights, or perhaps seat heaters? What about a hi/low headlight beam switch, or is that planned as a foot switch? As mentioned an under-dash panel mounted above the tranny tunnel, is handy for mounting some of these items.
Then there is the indicator light holes needed. Turn signals, (with one, or two bulbs), alternator charge light, and high beam are pretty standard. You may want an e-brake reminder light, a check engine light, or other reminder lights, such as for driving lights.
Add up all your holes needed, and get out the drill..
BTW, if you don't have a step drill, now is the time to get one. I kept putting that off because they are quite expensive in the $40 range for good ones. But once I bought one 3 yrs ago I kicked myself for waiting so long. I actually don't understand the physics of it but they cut so darn well it's amazing to me. Now here is where it really helped. I decided I wanted another switch in my dash. How to do that on an installed dash w/ the leatherette w/ thin foam backing? I started w/ a standard 1/16 inch bit for a pilot hole. Then the step bit. Amazingly, 2 minutes later I had my 3/8 hole and the leatherette was just fine. Mine is like this except it is gold.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...9204/204312639
I see that some are now a lot less expensive but have no experience w/ them.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Think I have a minimalist dash with all the basic functions covered.
Left to right. Not showing in the picture.
Left between steering wheel & door. Stacked horn over long stem self centering toggle for blinkers.
Speedometer
L. Turn, High Beam, R. Turn in a straight line between Speedometer & Tach
Tach
Lower row & visible in picture.
4X Flasher
Ignition
High Beam Toggle
Light Switch.
Heater Fan
Heater Temperature selector (electric)
Snake/COBRA fill up what would be a lot of dead space when you don't have a glove box.
There are lots of ways to layout the board & this was comfortable for me. No right or wrong way to do it thats the fun of building your own car.
FWIW As you can see I have the basic instrument set & after looking at it everyday when I drive have purchased a classic SpeedHut set on sale that I will be swapping in. Agree step drill makes life easy when punching holes in alloy, you can trial fit as you go.
Console is an extra that I used in mounting the dash so I don't have to screw the top in-place. Since I had it seemed like a good plan to fill it up with something.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 06-09-2019 at 11:59 AM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15