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Thread: Brake reservoir Bleeding brakes

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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Brake reservoir Bleeding brakes

    So I must have air in the system, fluid is coming out of the reservoir. Anyone have a source to a reservoir cap to fit the FFR old style reservoir so I can pressure bleed the brakes.


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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    So I assume its still air in the system. After I replaced the rear axle bearings and seals I noticed the fluid coming out. I tried bleeding the brakes using two people, one pumping the brakes while I let the fluid out at the caliper until no air bubbles noticed. The hole in the reservoir cap is pretty clear I didn't notice this before, I assumed there was some type of diaphragm to keep the fluid in but I can see through from the top to bottom. I saw a thread talking about having air in the system causing fluid to come out so pressure bleeding would help but with the hole in the cap does it help?

    Any suggestions..

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Do yourself a favor and get rid of that reservoir as it's open to atmosphere. Why is that a problem? Because your brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air. Why is that a problem? Because the moisture will corrode your steel parts and significantly lower your fluid's boiling point which can create gas (air) pockets throughout the system and act the same as if you had air trapped in the system.

    Use solo bleeders (they have a check valve) and a Mityvac to bleed your brakes by yourself. Same principle as pressure bleeding but you pull a vacuum at the bleeder valve and use 14 PSI atmospheric pressure to push the fluid out the bleeder.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
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    Itchief's Avatar
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    Factory Five Racing now sells an improved reservoir that uses a vented cap and a rubber diaphragm the cost is about $90

    I used the vacuum bleeding method and used a wrap of Teflon tape on the bleeder threads to stop air leaking around the threads

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

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    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Mine are CNC but the principle will be the same. Find hose, radiator or whatever that fits the reservoir, then go to the hardware store and cobble up stuff to go from that to a 1/4" or so hose to connect to pressure.
    Pressure Bleeder by craig stuard, on Flickr
    You only need 5 to absolute max of 10# pressure so a fish tank pump works fine.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    I talked to Factory Five and they are sending me new reservoir caps that don't have holes. I'm not sure what I'm getting into here, guessing that would make it a closed system different than what I'm used to. I looked into getting those CNC reservoirs but it looks like they have closed shop and I cant find those on the internet anywhere. I see the new FFR reservoirs have a diaphragm, anyone have those and like them?

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    Boydster's Avatar
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    Hey Dave. I have 3 of the older F5 reservoirs that do not have holes in the lids, nor diaphragms. Let me know if you'd like one or several to work with or keep or whatever.
    ---Boyd---
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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    Hey Dave. I have 3 of the older F5 reservoirs that do not have holes in the lids, nor diaphragms. Let me know if you'd like one or several to work with or keep or whatever.
    Thanks but I may get some different reservoirs with the diaphragm.

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    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    I talked to Factory Five and they are sending me new reservoir caps that don't have holes. I'm not sure what I'm getting into here, guessing that would make it a closed system different than what I'm used to. I looked into getting those CNC reservoirs but it looks like they have closed shop and I cant find those on the internet anywhere. I see the new FFR reservoirs have a diaphragm, anyone have those and like them?
    Had to drill a small hole in mine to get proper braking function.
    Kevin
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    Papa's Avatar
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    With the popular CNC reservoirs no longer available, here is a great option at about the same cost:

    https://www.scottshotrods.com/remote-reservoirs/
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

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    they have a few left of the triple CNC reservoirs. just ordered mine a couple days ago . . . . https://www.kartek.com . . . . shipping is twice what it should be, but they have them so they set the price

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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChasNMe View Post
    they have a few left of the triple CNC reservoirs. just ordered mine a couple days ago . . . . https://www.kartek.com . . . . shipping is twice what it should be, but they have them so they set the price
    Thanks, I ended up getting some FFR reservoirs with the diaphragm. I didn't like the mounting option they have so I welded some tabs on just like my others.


    Since CNC is gone another option are these if anyone is looking, X JAMAR.


    I am looking for a 1/8 NPT elbow to 3/8 barb and came across this one. Its for hydraulics and swivels, not sure if its safe to use with brake fluid....can anyone tell me?


    Turns out the new FFR reservoir cap has the same threads as the Motive pressure bleeder, so I'll get to bleed the brakes this time without my wife.

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    Junior Member SJDave's Avatar
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    Wow...beautiful welding job!

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    Boydster's Avatar
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    Yeah, nice work on the welding!

    I would be careful about that swivel... any seals in there may not last long. I had the same issue, wanting to go from that 1/8 NPT to a 3/8 barb, but needed to point in the correct direction without being loose or too tight. I installed a NPT to AN fitting, then used an AN to hose barb so I could get em pointed where i wanted with no leaks. Just a thought.

    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Does anyone know of some type of sealer or epoxy I could use on the inside of the FFR reservoirs. I guess when I welded the mounting tab on the reservoirs it melted the "O" ring on the pressed bottom because it leaks. Looks like the top is pressed on also.



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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Since they're leaking anyway I'd start with some JB Weld on the inside.


    John
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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    This is part of a safety system -- consider the damage to be part of the learning curve and replace it. Anything you use to seal it will be an experiment.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
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    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    This is part of a safety system -- consider the damage to be part of the learning curve and replace it. Anything you use to seal it will be an experiment.
    Yeah I agree, guess I'll be getting something else. What a waste of time and money.

    FFR had those reservoirs listed as stainless so I bought them. When I got them they looked aluminum so I called FFR and sure enough they said they were aluminum and then changed the listing on their parts page to say they were aluminum. I also asked if they were one piece and they said yes. Well I found out with some heat they are not one piece and now they are ruined and leak. Yup I guess I learned the hard way as usual, thanks FFR for helping me edgumacate myself.....haha. On to the next reservoir.

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    cant you just weld that seam up, since you did such a good job adding the tab, I think it would look good . . . or are the ends made of something different?

  21. #20
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChasNMe View Post
    cant you just weld that seam up, since you did such a good job adding the tab, I think it would look good . . . or are the ends made of something different?
    I was thinking the same thing given the quality if the work already demonstrated.
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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    One important step in making good quality welds is for the material to be clean and free of oxide, especially aluminum. If there is an o-ring sealing the bottom from the body that would have to be removed and the area cleaned. If trying to weld over the o-ring it will melt and gas which will contaminate the weld -- read the first sentence again. And since we already know they leak, logic dictates there is some foreign liquid in that mating surface between the two pieces and the o-ring groove.

    Since these are already scrap you may consider trying to weld them. Myself, I'd have already thrown them out and would not even think of trying to repair them and I made my living welding various materials including aluminum.

    Trust me, if you're going to be building cars you will make mistakes. Goes with the territory. These are simply learning opportunities. And some weeks I have many of these learning opportunities.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
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