Installed the floor, driveshaft, exhaust system...
IMG_0350.JPGIMG_3655.JPGIMG_3660.JPGIMG_3663.JPGIMG_3670.JPG60607315508__1E0A8EA7-0F3C-4180-84A1-4CCB6DBD6585.JPG IMG_0387.JPGIMG_0388.JPGIMG_0379.JPGIMG_0395.JPG Side note: The manual says to bolt the exhaust pipe mounts through the frame, but the problem I found is that the bolt would be protruding through the cab floor. So I used 3/4" long, stainless steel, sheet metal, flanged screws to attach the mounts to the bottom of the frame tubes. Also, most of the pipes are 2-1/4" and the supplied brackets fit fine, but the turn-down tips are 2-1/2" so I got some good hanging brackets from Summit...and I undercoated the bottom with Dupli-Color Bed Armor.
Frank....can you drill and roll pin those brackets....so it wont slide down?
Thanks for the suggestion but I’m not sure what you mean
I’ve tightened the bolts, but haven’t torqued yet, and it seems to hold. The bottom radiator hose is resting on the frame bracket...hopefully it won’t slide down but I know that’s not ideal.
There is another hole on the frame, above the control arm bolt. I may be able to use that, but it looks pretty tight.
Slotted holes wont move anymore if you drill a hole near the slot and put a roll pin or bolt in it. Kind of like a bumper bracket. Adjust it to where it needs to be....and then immobilize it.
My time got temporarily diverted to another project but I'm back in the shop. I got buried in the wiring so I haven't been keeping up on the progress, but here are more pictures.
I got the loop suggested by some, from Summit. Solid piece of metal. It's a tight fit but I rotated the shaft and it clears with some room for movement. IMG_0875.JPGIMG_0882.JPGIMG_0914.JPG
Wrapped the mufflers... IMG_0940.JPG Test fit the tunnel...IMG_0951.JPG Got the Lokar Elecronic Sport Shifter. It's a nice piece of equipment and there are many ways to mount it. But the problem I had was this...it's designed to be floor-mounted. The problem with that is that the cable goes aft, and if I mounted it on top of the tunnel, the cable would be above the seat. Well that wouldn't work so I tried to make a trans mounted bracket but I couldn't figure that out. So I mounted it on the tunnel, just low enough for the cable to pass between the tunnel and the safety loop and through the floor. It's a pain-in-the-a** and I hope I don't have to remove the tunnel or the shifter, EVER, but it seems to work...so far. IMG_0826(1).JPG
Installed the battery. Like everything else in this truck, it's a tight fit. I tried and I have no idea how I would get the battery out from under the bed once the build is complete. I imaged disconnecting the terminals from underneath and rotating the battery in every direction. Rather than become a contortionist I plan to put an access panel in the bed similar to rponfick. IMG_0835.JPG Added some aluminum to the cab...IMG_0960.JPG
Installed the gas pedal. Got a Lokar stainless steel braided cable and bracket. The cable was easy to cut to length. IMG_0974.JPGIMG_0975.JPG
Great pictures. I added driveshaft safety loop to my list too. I am not an expert but should they be mounted a little further back to catch the driveshaft if the u-joint yoke fails?
Great pictures. I added driveshaft safety loop to my list too. I am not an expert but should they be mounted a little further back to catch the driveshaft if the u-joint yoke fails?
Thanks! I studied the placement for 2 days, and I did look at putting it farther back, but I ended up putting it where I did with the idea that it will shield against any flying pieces of the u-joint, if it comes apart. I have the u-joint perfectly centered under the loop. Also, the top end of the shaft yoke (I guess that's what it's called) is under the loop. In addition, it seems that if the shaft somehow backed out from the loop, the frame's built-in loop and the opening in the frame should also restrict it.
It's a solid piece of metal and only $28 at Summit, so I guess 2 could be installed for ultimate protection and it fits almost perfectly under the tunnel. I did have to cut a small hole in the side of the tunnel to accommodate the loop's bolts but doesn't seem to be a problem.
And I don't know for sure how effective it is, but I applied some Kevlar and carbon fiber to the underside of the tunnel.
I think I like it there. It was a little tricky pouring gas from a can (with a short nozzle). A funnel or can with a long and flexible nozzle would be helpful. It might be easier from a gas pump (I haven't tried that yet).
Thanks! I am detecting a tone which tells me it's NOT going to be fun. But, hey, in for a penny...
LOL. There are portions that were a bit challenging. Having chopped mine I created a bunch more work. The door alignment and radiator cowl alignment to hood were the hardest for me. And judging from other posts most had the same experience. I ended up cutting and doing major mods to get the cowl in alignment. After a lot of trial and error I have the doors figured out. If you have trouble with them drop me a message and I can go over what I found to be a pretty easy method to get them flush at all corners and lined up with the body moldings. They may have it in the manual by know but I know the first ones we all had a bit of a struggle.
LOL. There are portions that were a bit challenging. Having chopped mine I created a bunch more work. The door alignment and radiator cowl alignment to hood were the hardest for me. And judging from other posts most had the same experience. I ended up cutting and doing major mods to get the cowl in alignment. After a lot of trial and error I have the doors figured out. If you have trouble with them drop me a message and I can go over what I found to be a pretty easy method to get them flush at all corners and lined up with the body moldings. They may have it in the manual by know but I know the first ones we all had a bit of a struggle.
Bruce
I appreciate the offer, I may need the help. Thanks!
I’ve been busy building and haven’t updated this thread for a while, but I’ve been making some progress.
After my last post I got working on the doors. I agree with the consensus…the doors are probably the trickiest part of the build. More specifically (at least for me) the hinges. Once I figured out the right combination of adjustments, I got it. Now they are opening/closing pretty well. IMG_1771.JPGIMG_1674(1).jpgIMG_1736.JPG
Next, got into the meat of the dash. Coved the gauge panel with diamond-plate, cut the holes for the ignition switch, lights, wipers, vents, and gear indicator. IMG_1574.JPGIMG_1576.JPGIMG_1584.JPG
I fabricated a lower-dash for the a/c panel and radio. I plan to cover it with a leather-like vinyl wrap so it kind of matches the seats. IMG_1627(1).JPGIMG_7061.jpg
Then I installed the wiper system. Got the WWK-21 wiper kit from Specialty Power Windows like DamnYankee (thanks for your post!). This kit has an intermittent setting. Nice system. IMG_1613.JPGIMG_1616.JPGIMG_1632.JPG
The bed floor…Before starting on the bed, I attempted to remove the battery from underneath to see how difficult it would be. I would have to say “impossible.” So, as others have suggested/done, I cut an access panel in the bed floor. Then I thought, why not cut holes for all of the other parts that may need work/replacement in the future. So, I also made access panels for the fuel filter, charcoal canister, fuel pump, fuel quantity sending unit and the transmission oil cooler. I admit it looks a little like the old board game, Operation, but according to Murphy’s Law I should never have to work on any of these now that I have done all of this work. IMG_1683.JPGIMG_1694.JPGIMG_1721.JPGIMG_1722.JPGIMG_1730.JPGIMG_1731.JPG
Body/paint: I had a reputable body guy out to give me an idea of cost to prep the fiberglass and paint…$14-17k. I was expecting closer to 10. That is with a premium red metallic paint, and he does great work. He said he would make all of the lines/seams look good; straighten, level everything; explained the layers of filler, primer, paint, clear coat, etc. He also mentioned that red is the most expensive color (who knew?) but other colors would be more affordable.
Does that price sound somewhat reasonable for a great paint job? Comments on the paint?
Thanks
Body/paint: I had a reputable body guy out to give me an idea of cost to prep the fiberglass and paint…$14-17k. I was expecting closer to 10. That is with a premium red metallic paint, and he does great work. He said he would make all of the lines/seams look good; straighten, level everything; explained the layers of filler, primer, paint, clear coat, etc. He also mentioned that red is the most expensive color (who knew?) but other colors would be more affordable.
Does that price sound somewhat reasonable for a great paint job? Comments on the paint?
Thanks
That is a fairly good quote. I have paid 20-25K for body/paint.
Yes red is the most expensive color to spray. There’s a certain type of bug juice that’s used to create the color and that’s what drives the price up. I painted mine in a red burgundy and material alone was close to 3K . There’s different kinds of paint systems varying in price however they vary in quality too. There’s cheap production clear and then there’s quality clear
Cheap clear has a yellow tinge to it and quality clear when mixed is clear and flows out like glass which is nice and shinny .
I’m a very experienced body guy and did my body work myself and probably had 150 hrs of body work into my build . I got everything ready and had a buddy prime it then I helped block things out and he shot it for me because I’m not that good of a painter. If there’s one thing I could suggest is the stainless panels that are attached to the upper quarters need to be removed and re glued back in place mine are coming loose as several other guys have had this issue from ffr.
I like to know my material cost on every project I get into then I can go from there. Cash is king and maybe you can work with your guy in that respect.
That is a fairly good quote. I have paid 20-25K for body/paint.
Ok, good to know. Just a little sticker shock...since I'm going without a hood/panels I thought it might be closer to $10k. But I DO want a good job, and that was his "realistic range" but (hopefully) could come in at the lower end. I believe he does good work and it includes all of the fiberglass work. After all, you get what you pay for, right?
Yes red is the most expensive color to spray. There’s a certain type of bug juice that’s used to create the color and that’s what drives the price up....
I appreciate the explanation...good info! They must be rare bugs from the Amazon jungle and it must take a lot of them
Regarding the stainless panels, I already had one separate while working with it. Used JB Weld cool steel epoxy to reattach it.
Thanks!
It’s been a while since my last update but I have been working pretty consistently on my truck. I had the door setback (link to post) which took some time to get the new doors and some more time to install them. I spent a few weeks trying to install a keyless lock system, which I ultimately removed.
In November I had a professional mechanic tweak the timing, adjust the suspension and do an alignment. He also checked over my other work…all good.
Before paint I tied up some loose ends like shortened/eliminated unnecessary wires, fabricated brackets for the forward bed corners, finished the dash, etc. Last week the truck went to the paint shop, so while it’s being painted, I’ve been working on the bed wood.
Finally got the truck back from the paint shop. It took longer than estimated but I'm not surprised...they had to do a little more body work than expected. There were some air gaps in the fiberglass, the roof was sagging a little and they had to fix my mistakes. Will be getting to work on the interior and finishing this up. IMG_3581.jpgIMG_3588.jpgIMG_3591.jpgIMG_3586.jpgIMG_4922.jpg
I like it. Nice work and congratulations. Good luck finishing it up.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by RuffShod
and it fits almost perfectly under the tunnel. I did have to cut a small hole in the side of the tunnel to accommodate the loop's bolts but doesn't seem to be a problem.
But, hey, in for a penny...
Thanks!
