Dash Alignment Question

[Cruzzz]

Posted this in my build thread too but hoping for more visibility and thoughts here before I lock down my dash location.

Working on all things wiring lately including prepping the blank dash. After cutting the gauge holes and adjusting the steering column opening to work with the Russ Thompson Turn Signal system I mocked the dash up on the frame. I read in a few places to leave 1/8” in the center between the top of the dash and the top of the frame hoop. I started by centering the steering column on the steering column hole, leveled the dash from the bottom edge and clamped everything down with 1/8” at the top as suggested.



This left the top edge of the dash approximately 3/16” above the frame hoop on the PS and DS.



Does this look right?

[Fixit]

Are you going to use the lower support option??
I did on #9365, and it dictated the location of the dash to the frame hoop. From the pics, your dash is about 3/16" higher up (center) than mine wound up being.

[Cruzzz]

I was not planning to use the dash support. Based on how yours worked out it sounds like I should have ~5/16 of the frame hoop showing above the dash at the center, right?

[dncharo]

I'm at this stage of the build as well. From what I've read, you shouldn't try to measure from the top of the frame hoop because that is not symmetrical and may be different on each car. Instead, measure from the ends of the hoop and there should be about 3/16" of the hoop visible at each end. Going by those guidelines, your dash may need to be lowered. See the following thread for more details and pictures...
Hope this helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...on-turn-Signal

[Fixit]

The cockpit rolled lip on the body is pretty generous... there's lots of freeplay before an edge would be visible.
Make a centerline mark on the hoop & panel, center & clamp the dash in place at the center, then tuck the "ears" of the dash panel behind/inboard of the door hinges (no pre-bend, just natural curve).
I used the FFR supplied laser-cut "mystery" lower dash brackets (for the mustang switches, etc) as my baseline for the lower angle/kick-out, between the 2x2 tube and dash panel.
Giggle/Futz/move the dash so the ends are equal reveal, and call it good.

Take a look here

I drilled an 1/8" hole about 10" up the curve from the door hinges through the dash & frame hoop. Install Cleco. This was my repeatable reference clamp-down point during all the on & off sessions. It won't be visible or "print through" after upholstery.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Different approach from the traditional one.

Did not bother to measure & attach upped edge of the dash to the crossbar. The body has a significance roll at the top. Used Mike Everson's under dash panel to support the dash. Panel is riveted to the frame along its front edge. The Dash is screwed to the under panel with 4 screws at its bottom lip.



When the body is installed the upper dash edge fits between the upper crossbar & the back of the lip. The Console which is screwed to the framing around the transmission cover provides tension to hold it in place. In in for 4 years & 10,000 miles. with no issues.



There are a number or ways to mount the dash. I choose this because it did not require exact measurements (body was in for paint when I built the chassis) it takes 5-10 minutes to remove the dash (COYOTE has service parts behind the dash) & there are no screws showing on the face of the dash. Also if you use this method or not Mikes panel adds a lot of rigidity to the dash mounting even if with the traditional method.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...From what I've read, you shouldn't try to measure from the top of the frame hoop because that is not symmetrical and may be different on each car. Instead, measure from the ends of the hoop and there should be about 3/16" of the hoop visible at each end...

And there's the correct answer.

Jeff

[Cruzzz]

Got it! Thanks everyone.