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Thread: Another Broken Windshield Thread

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Another Broken Windshield Thread

    I know this has been talked about a lot. But as I posted in my #8674 build thread, I joined the broken windshield club last week. Thought I would share my experience and observations FWIW in a new thread versus one of the older ones. My #8674 Roadster is in its third driving season with just under 5,000 miles. No signs of any windshield issues until climbing in last week and found the telltale diagonal cracks on the driver side. Appeared overnight will sitting in a cool garage. Coincidentally, two other local club members discovered broken windshields during the past week. Another Factory Five and an ERA. Good grief. This is what I discovered:



    My first inclination was to replace with the Fast Freddie’s Lexan piece. His website said temporarily out of stock, so sent a message asking about availability. Received a response (1) No ETA when they would be in stock, and (2) Likely will no longer be offering them. At the now $600 listed price, kind of expensive anyway. Looked through some previous threads, and found where many are using coated Lexan from plastics suppliers. That's an option, but specifically found reference to a company Optic Armor that sells various Lexan sizes and thicknesses for this purpose. Their 24 x 72 x 3/16 flat is $250, so not the cheapest option. But purchased through Summit Racing has only $9.99 shipping. Would have gone that way, except promised delivery was about two weeks, and I wanted this fixed before London. So, checked with Factory Five, and they had replacement glass in stock for immediate shipment. So that’s what I did, and it’s now installed and fixed. If it breaks again, I’ll probably go the Optic Armor Lexan direction.

    So a couple of additional words about the fix and observations. Lots has been posted about making sure the side arms aren’t putting pressure on the windshield, using shims, etc. Agree that’s important, and was curious how I did when installing mine. So to check this, plus maybe make the swap easier, I tried removing the windshield by just taking the four screws out of the side arms on each side and lifting the windshield frame out. Wasn’t sure what would happen when taking the screws out, so taped the arms down first, plus added some tape along the front edge of the gasket to avoid scratching the body if it moved unexpectedly and also to make sure I got it back exactly where it was. Turned out to be a complete non-event. With the screws out on each side, the arms barely moved and the windshield lifted right out. Clearly, the arms were putting no pressure on the windshield.

    The replacement windshield glass received from Factory Five was the same DOT code as the windshield originally received with the complete kit. Made in Taiwan. The glass appeared to be decent quality. The edges were relatively smooth. Some have reported rough edges and thought this contributed to the problem. Don’t know, but mine were OK. The glass came with new gasket material and a new seal for the bottom edge. Removing the old glass and installing the new glass with the new seal was relatively easy. I used some WD-40 on the frame and it slipped over the gasket material without a lot of drama. Also gave me a chance to see if the screws I very carefully placed for the visor brackets were affecting anything, since I didn't remove the brackets themselves. The screws were just barely through and not a mark on the seal. Nothing there that would contribute to the windshield breaking. With a little help from my trusty shop helper (my wife) set the windshield frame back in place and got all the side screws back in. Took a little jiggling to get the right angles, but all good. Definitely easier than reaching into the bowels of the chassis and removing the whole assembly with the arms attached. Plus didn’t have to mess with the angle and location again. Total time from receiving the FedEx box to all fixed was about three hours.

    So what’s happening and why are these breaking? Can’t say for sure with my sample size of one. But feel like in this case it wasn’t because of stress from the side arms. What I did notice though with the windshield off is on both sides, right inside the side arms, the corner of the windshield was contacting the body. Enough that it was digging into the fiberglass body a little. Obviously not seen, so not an appearance concern. But that tells me maybe the windshield is getting some additional vibration and stress right on that corner and over time could cause them to fail. The windshield needs to be pushed down all the way to get the front gasket to compress enough, especially to fill the valley between the fenders and the center. Don’t know if there’s a solution. Curious what others might think. Meanwhile, back to driving and see how it goes.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-20-2019 at 07:35 AM.
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    Any thoughts of grinding down the body a bit where the windshield seems to be digging in?

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    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    So what’s happening and why are these breaking? Can’t say for sure with my sample size of one. But feel like in this case it wasn’t because of stress from the side arms. What I did notice though with the windshield off is on both sides, right inside the side arms, the corner of the windshield was contacting the body. Enough that it was digging into the fiberglass body a little. Obviously not seen, so not an appearance concern. But that tells me maybe the windshield is getting some additional vibration and stress right on that corner and over time could cause them to fail. The windshield needs to be pushed down all the way to get the front gasket to compress enough, especially to fill the valley between the fenders and the center. Don’t know if there’s a solution. Curious what others might think. Meanwhile, back to driving and see how it goes.

    Sir Paul,

    I think you may be on to something.

    Though I've only got about 200 test miles on my car, when I installed the windscreen I made it hover over the body... I used a cloths pin (Separated) as a spacer on each end to keep the frame off of the body so that only the flapper gasket touches it... This created a small gap in the gasket on each end so I'll be filling it in a little prior to doing the paint work...At no point does the windshield frame touch the body.

    Again, I think you may be on to something.

    Steve

    NOTE:...You can see the gap that I'll be filling about 50-56 seconds into the attached video:

    https://youtu.be/_3sLamdkIFg
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 06-20-2019 at 08:36 AM.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radman73 View Post
    Any thoughts of grinding down the body a bit where the windshield seems to be digging in?
    Maybe. Or perhaps the corner of the windshield frame so it lays more flat vs. on a corner. But in the end, not sure you're going to get the vibrations of the body totally isolated from the windshield. I suspect there's a reason this failure happens across all brands with this same windshield.
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    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    After my 2nd factory five windshield broke i ordered the next from ********** and have had no issues in over four years and 6k miles, even took a rock in the center that left a chip but has not cracked.
    Walt
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post

    Looked through some previous threads, and found where many are using coated Lexan from plastics suppliers. That's an option, but specifically found reference to a company Optic Armor that sells various Lexan sizes and thicknesses for this purpose. Their 24 x 72 x 3/16 flat is $250, so not the cheapest option. But purchased through Summit Racing has only $9.99 shipping. Would have gone that way, except promised delivery was about two weeks, and I wanted this fixed before London.
    Regarding all that:

    Home Depot sells 48 x 96 x .177 *uncoated* Lexan for ~$138: https://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-48...0101/301894184

    You can make 4 windshields out of that.

    I *highly, highly* recommend practicing multiple times on a piece of that before anyone tries cutting on an expensive coated piece.

    You need to work on your approach to protecting the surface finish, both during the cut (masking tape) + installation (be careful) phases.

    Additionally you're likely to find that the template you try to accurately trace off the glass + trace onto the Lexan + then cut - does not necessarily fit in the frame properly.


    With four tries on a cheap sheet of uncoated Lexan - anybody should be able to figure it out (and have a much better template to work from), or figure out they're not likely going to be able to pull it off successfully on a single piece of expensive coated Lexan.


    Just advice from someone who has been working on that approach (work in progress).

  7. #7
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post
    Regarding all that:

    Home Depot sells 48 x 96 x .177 *uncoated* Lexan for ~$138: https://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-48...0101/301894184

    You can make 4 windshields out of that.

    I *highly, highly* recommend practicing multiple times on a piece of that before anyone tries cutting on an expensive coated piece.

    You need to work on your approach to protecting the surface finish, both during the cut (masking tape) + installation (be careful) phases.

    Additionally you're likely to find that the template you try to accurately trace off the glass + trace onto the Lexan + then cut - does not necessarily fit in the frame properly.


    With four tries on a cheap sheet of uncoated Lexan - anybody should be able to figure it out (and have a much better template to work from), or figure out they're not likely going to be able to pull it off successfully on a single piece of expensive coated Lexan.


    Just advice from someone who has been working on that approach (work in progress).
    I'm a huge believer in testing and prototyping things before committing to the real thing. But I would have a little bit of a problem spending $138 (plus tax and shipping if applicable) to test for for a $250 + shipping item. The 24 x 72 piece from Optic Armor gives quite a bit of extra. Actual windshield is approx 16 x 60. So there's some extra to play with. Their website gives suggestions on how to cut, what blade to use, etc. I'm not worried about getting a good pattern off the existing windshield. But at this point, hoping I don't have to pursue any of that.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Just remember - it's $138 you get to screw up 4 times (but are practically guaranteed to get a good template out of - regardless) vs. $250 you only get one mistake with.

    And yes - I may be too committed to testing + prototyping...

  9. #9
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    I'm surprised that the glass windshields still do not come with dimples where the screws go into the side rail. 99% of all the cracks originate at these little screws.

    Maybe someone will be brave enough to see if a Dremel with a sandpaper drum is safe to do the job.

  10. #10
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    After my 2nd factory five windshield broke i ordered the next from ********** and have had no issues in over four years and 6k miles, even took a rock in the center that left a chip but has not cracked.
    Walt
    I wonder where the ********** glass is made? The UK perhaps?
    FFR's glass used to come from China, and it was typical Chinese poor quality. Now Taiwan maybe the glass of choice, because it too, would probably be cheaper. Turns out, maybe it's not any better.
    After my second FFR glass cracked, (just sitting in the garage), I opted to just live with it for the time being. The crack is down low enough on the drivers side it doesn't obscure my vision at all. If anyone asks, it's caused from the frame twisting, with the awesome torque my 302 HiPo produces..

    New builders, to avoid disappointment later, I recommend just hitting it with a rubber mallet after installation, and just get it over with..
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    The Somewhat Inevitable Cracked Winshield

    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    I wonder where the ********** glass is made? The UK perhaps?
    FFR's glass used to come from China, and it was typical Chinese poor quality. Now Taiwan maybe the glass of choice, because it too, would probably be cheaper. Turns out, maybe it's not any better.
    After my second FFR glass cracked, (just sitting in the garage), I opted to just live with it for the time being. The crack is down low enough on the drivers side it doesn't obscure my vision at all. If anyone asks, it's caused from the frame twisting, with the awesome torque my 302 HiPo produces..

    New builders, to avoid disappointment later, I recommend just hitting it with a rubber mallet after installation, and just get it over with..
    So it happened to me after installing soft top. I think the additional movement of the perimeter frame forced the sun visor screws to impinge on the glass (even with shims) because that is where the crack originated. I went the Optik Armor route and so far very impressed with clarity. I didn't go with glass as in my neck of the woods the next issue is highway thrown gravel. Cutting the poly is straight forward using the recommended blade set on a medium speed (14 teeth per inch). You just need to protect the cutting path edge with masking tape and be careful. I supported the the old glass over the poly panel so it curved the same & held the edges with spring loaded wood clamps until I traced the outline. I used 3/16" as per others suggestions but might try 1/4" if I ever have to do it again. Windscreen is mutch lighter but quite rigid when installed. Shipping is the killer from Optik Armor $75 but it is a big piece. IT took me about 5 hours start to finish. Sanding the edges to get a uniform edge free of cutting wiggles took some time.

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    Junior Member PhoneGUy's Avatar
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    Well, I am one of the other local club members that also was awarded the cracked windshield last week... it is what it is. My car was finished in 2013 and I have over 10k miles and honestly thought that I wasn't going to be so lucky. Heck, when renewing our auto insurance this year I almost removed the $15 annual windshield coverage - sure am glad I didnt act on that small savings.

    Now to move forward with my pending Optik Armor order at Summit Racing, RobCYoung - You mentioned that you might try 1/4" if you have to do it again. That is exactly what I have been contemplating all week before I push the order button and I cant find a reason why not to. Are there any obstacles that you can point to why not to use 1/4"? The main reason why I have been thinking of using the thicker 1/4" is to improve the stiffness or rigidity of the 3/16".

    -Bob
    p.s. Paul, glad to hear that you were able to replace your windshield before leaving for London.
    Last edited by PhoneGUy; 06-20-2019 at 05:53 PM.
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    Yup,
    Mine cracked sitting in the garage overnight too.
    Showed the roadster to a friend one day, windshield was fine.
    Went into the garage the next day to go for a drive and windshield had the diagonal crack on the lower left corner.
    It will be lexan for me when I get around to replacing it.

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    Hi guys, a question from the sidelines... I suspect that the windshield is not strong structurally, and shouldn't be used to climb in and out of the roadster? But after reading this thread, how reliable is fastening and unfastening a soft top in regards to not flexing the windshield? I also wonder if some of the higher powered cars have body torque twist enough to do in the windshield? Thanks, Anthony

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    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerpantFL View Post
    Hi guys, a question from the sidelines... I suspect that the windshield is not strong structurally, and shouldn't be used to climb in and out of the roadster?
    That goes without saying..You need to quickly train your passengers, not to use it as a handhold, on ingress or when exiting. But then again, it will probably break anyway, so why bother..lol
    I could envision frame torque causing a glass to break.

    Perhaps if a thicker rubber seal was used, that had a little more "give", that may solve the issue altogether. When glass is annealed (heated and then cooled) during the manufacturing process, “residual stresses” are often found along the perimeter of the windshield. As a result, the edges of the windshield are also the weakest and most prone to fractures. Stands to reason a thicker seal might help.

    A tension rod is a worthwhile investment for those adding a top.

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    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwheeler View Post
    I'm surprised that the glass windshields still do not come with dimples where the screws go into the side rail. 99% of all the cracks originate at these little screws.

    Maybe someone will be brave enough to see if a Dremel with a sandpaper drum is safe to do the job.
    Sorry there is no truth in that. The side screws can not come into contact with the glass, part of the frame is between the screws and the glass. The only way the screws could contact the glass is if they drilled themselves through the aluminum frame. Now the visor screws can hit the glass, and care must be taken there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post

    You need to quickly train your passengers, not to use it as a handhold, on ingress or when exiting. But then again, it will probably break anyway, so why bother..lol
    I was (originally) trying to figure out what kind of red lettered "no handhold / no touchy" strip to apply (in a very visible, can't miss it way) to the windshield frame - I decided that was a lost cause - even more so after hearing so many "cracked overnight in the garage" stories.


    P.S. - on having 4 chances to get it "right" on a relatively "cheap" prototype:

    Do not underestimate the complications of trying to fit a "straight" piece of Lexan (+ rubber) into the same spot a sturdy piece of curved glass went.

    It takes more than two hands (four "skilled" hands at best)....


    Especially if you want it installed "unmarked".


    Good luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhoneGUy View Post
    Well, I am one of the other local club members that also was awarded the cracked windshield last week... it is what it is. My car was finished in 2013 and I have over 10k miles and honestly thought that I wasn't going to be so lucky. Heck, when renewing our auto insurance this year I almost removed the $15 annual windshield coverage - sure am glad I didnt act on that small savings.

    Now to move forward with my pending Optik Armor order at Summit Racing, RobCYoung - You mentioned that you might try 1/4" if you have to do it again. That is exactly what I have been contemplating all week before I push the order button and I cant find a reason why not to. Are there any obstacles that you can point to why not to use 1/4"? The main reason why I have been thinking of using the thicker 1/4" is to improve the stiffness or rigidity of the 3/16". I fit the lexan by myself without issue, it wasn't that hard. Just leave all the protective film on until the end.
    While the frame was apart I also shimmed the visor brackets so the screws didn't extend passed the inner frame edge.

    -Bob
    p.s. Paul, glad to hear that you were able to replace your windshield before leaving for London.
    The only question would be how tight a fit into the frame. I would check with OA to see exactly how thick 1/4" is compared to a glass windshield. I had to clean the gasket of the previous mounting tape which was a Real PITA. I would get a new one next time. The old one was cut short and patched with a 2" inch end piece, not too impressive workmanship. Even then it left a small corner gap. The only reason I went with 3/16" was that other forum members said it worked well. Once installed it is plenty rigid.
    Last edited by RobCYoung; 06-21-2019 at 04:23 AM.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Couple of follow-ups:

    - I can say confidently that my windshield frame is not used for getting in/out of the car. Only two other drivers (my sons) in three years, and I always help my passengers in/out due to the hot pipes, and instruct them not to grab the windshield. Plus I have a handle on the dash to grab onto if needed.

    - Although no personal experience, from all the threads I've read on this subject, the Lexan replacements are all 3/16-inch thick material. Almost positive the widely used Fast Freddie's version was that thickness. Now with that not available, 3/16 is what I see others using including the Optic Armor option. Have read several references that the 1/4-inch thick material is too thick to make the necessary curve. The glass windshield I removed and replaced measured .2300 thick BTW, and with the gasket is a very tight fit. Full 1/4-inch thick material could be challenging to assemble.

    - Although I see people re-using the gasket material, it has adhesive in it plus is stretched pretty good around the glass and cut at the bottom corners. Ideally, use new. My replacement windshield from Factory Five came with new gasket material, so it's something they carry. I don't have the part number in front of me since I'm not at home.

    - X2 to Rich's comment. The four side screws on each side, through the post and into the frame, are absolutely not a threat to the glass. There's solid metal in the frame between the end of the screws and the glass. If the screws are too long, they will simply bottom out and not hold properly. But won't touch the glass. The bigger issue there is the brass strip the screws go into. Real easy to cross thread or strip those out. Why many, including me, replace the strip with an SS version from Whitby's. Or make your own. It's a simple piece.
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    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Paul,

    If the entire windscreen was hovering just above the body, not touching at all, then do you think this issue could or would have been avoided?

    Sorry, but for the record this riddle really bugs the crap out of me for some absurd reason.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 06-21-2019 at 07:43 AM.

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    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Paul,

    If the entire windscreen was hovering just above the body, not touching at all, then do you think this issue could our would have been avoided?

    Sorry, but for the record this riddle really bugs the crap out of me for some absurd reason.

    Steve
    No I doubt it very much. If thats all it took to break the glass, these windshields wouldn't last a week, just from the wind pushing on them at speed. I just think it's inexpensive, lowest cost glass.

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    Another supplier or option for poly-carbonate windshields Racing Shields

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    Junior Member PhoneGUy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    - Although no personal experience, from all the threads I've read on this subject, the Lexan replacements are all 3/16-inch thick material. Almost positive the widely used Fast Freddie's version was that thickness. Now with that not available, 3/16 is what I see others using including the Optic Armor option. Have read several references that the 1/4-inch thick material is too thick to make the necessary curve. The glass windshield I removed and replaced measured .2300 thick BTW, and with the gasket is a very tight fit. Full 1/4-inch thick material could be challenging to assemble.

    - Although I see people re-using the gasket material, it has adhesive in it plus is stretched pretty good around the glass and cut at the bottom corners. Ideally, use new. My replacement windshield from Factory Five came with new gasket material, so it's something they carry. I don't have the part number in front of me since I'm not at home.
    Thanks Paul for the feedback - I will stick with the 3/16" and I will get new gasket material.

    -Bob
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Paul,

    If the entire windscreen was hovering just above the body, not touching at all, then do you think this issue could or would have been avoided?

    Sorry, but for the record this riddle really bugs the crap out of me for some absurd reason.

    Steve
    I honestly don't know. Evidence suggests mine didn't break for the often cited reasons: pressure from the side bars, people pulling on it when getting in and out, visor screws. Vibration from the body, which is partly mounted on flexible rubber, directly contacting the windshield frame could conceivably cause it to stress crack over time. But then the glass is mounted in a rubber gasket. So who knows. Would seem best to avoid the direct body contact to the frame. But no guarantee whatsoever you won't join the exclusive club. Rich might be right. Maybe just cheap glass. Talked to a number of folks during the London show today. This problem is spread across all brands. Small consolation. Just reinforced I'll go to Lexan if mine breaks again.
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    When my car was in gelcoat I hit a deer. He jumped and cleared the car but hit the windshield edge. It broke the mirror and wind wing, pushing the windshield post back a couple of inches and bending it. The glass did NOT break. I bent the post back in alignment when the car came back from paint and it's been 3 years and over 7000 miles since. Of course it may be cracking as I type this!
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  28. #26
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    Paul, I've been reading and thinking about this since you posted it here and on the other forum. I responded, on the other forum, with some random thoughts.

    I remember, a long time ago, 'Street Rod Painter' telling me to force the windshield down against the cowling. It just didn't make sense to me though.

    However, thinking about it now, if it's been forced hard against the cowling it will have less chance to flex. It gets forced into a position and stays there rather than being allowed to flex over time.?? If you have ever watched these cars on the track, at speed, with the camera behind the driver there is a lot of flexing going on with the body and windshield.

    George

  29. #27

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Paul,

    I think everyone is a bit shocked that this happened to you because we all know your extreme attention to the details, even the smallest of them.
    We'd have the same reaction if Jeff Kleiner had one break on him for no apparent reason.
    Do you think the Finish Line windscreen assembly is any better?

    https://www.**********accessories.co...-domestic.aspx

    Heck, would it fit or could it be modified to fit?

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 06-22-2019 at 07:46 AM.

  30. #28
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    Completed a search on the other forum but could not find a response from SRP regarding pushing down on the windshield. However, I did find some other interesting info. Pushing down was supposed to change the shape of the cowling in order to better fit the doors on the Mk 3 bodies.
    2016 thread with response by Jeff Kleiner post # 5. Good to read original posting by AC Bill too.

    https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...-hood-etc.html

    I found a few threads regarding fitting the windshield to the Mk 3 bodies. Then I found this thread originally started by me in 2009. It had to do with the windshield rod support and center bracket found on the original cars which some builders have added to their FFR cars.

    https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...be-answer.html

    George

    added edit:

    regarding Steve's post re: Finish Line. I copied this from their site: OEM fits only original, kirkham, and ERA cars. Imported from England

    Now the Mk 4 is supposed to be a close 'copy' of Dick Smith's original. I don't know how close FFR made their to that car as I sure there were some compromises.
    Last edited by GWL; 06-23-2019 at 07:55 AM.

  31. #29
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Paul,

    I think everyone is a bit shocked that this happened to you because we all know your extreme attention to the details, even the smallest of them.
    We'd have the same reaction if Jeff Kleiner had one break on him for no apparent reason.
    Do you think the Finish Line windscreen assembly is any better?

    https://www.**********accessories.co...-domestic.aspx

    Heck, would it fit or could it be modified to fit?

    Steve
    I don't know anything about the ********** windshield. But I am skeptical about the "domestic" claim. Here's why. Way back in my Mk3 build (now almost 10 years ago, hard to believe) I had to buy a new windshield because what I received from the seller was broken (long story). Looked around and found a seller that advertised a USA made windshield. Bought one and it was nice quality with PPG glass. Still intact to this day, including now running with a top for a couple years. For my first Mk4 (#7750) found the windshield from Factory Five was from China and quality didn't seem as good. So inquired to the same seller, was told the "domestic" windshields were still available. So bought another. When received, found it was not PPG but rather the DOT code pointed to a Chinese mfg. Obviously questioned this to the seller and was told domestic glass was no longer available. Companies like PPG no longer made them because the quantity was too low. He defended the domestic listing as they were assembled domestically. Still advertised that way BTW. Of course I have no way to confirm domestic glass isn't available, but it wouldn't surprise me if it's true. I suspect what ********** is advertising is the same, e.g. assembled domestically but not necessarily from domestic components. With my #8674 Mk4, found Factory Five was now getting the glass from a Taiwan mfg, and they do seem a bit higher quality than what I had from #7750. The replacement glass I just installed had the same Taiwan DOT code.

    So, long story short, my guess is we don't have a lot of choices of where these parts are coming from or the quality. I also don't think we have a confirmed failure cause. I suspect it can be for a number of reasons, quality just being one of them. And even that's unpredictable because there seem to be multiple mfg's involved depending on the age. Best we can do, and I'm officially out of ideas for this thread, is install them carefully, don't hang on them, and hope for the best. Some will break, some not. One thing I am confident about is that if my latest one breaks, the new Lexan one won't.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-23-2019 at 07:01 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  32. Thanks GoDadGo thanked for this post
  33. #30
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    When received, found it was not PPG but rather the DOT code pointed to a Chinese mfg. Obviously questioned this to the seller and was told domestic glass was no longer available. Companies like PPG no longer made them because the quantity was too low.
    PPG got out of the glass business a couple of years ago. Might still be some residual stuff hanging around, but unlikely to see anything new once that is depleted. I think there are only two other US suppliers for OEM and aftermarket windshields....AP Tech and Pilkington. However, I think XYG (China) makes a lot of their glass, so PPG might have been one of the last as true US supplier.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
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    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
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  34. #31
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    I remember an old episode of "Wheeler Dealers" on the Velocity channel, where they were fixing up an old Saab. I guess new windshields don't exist for that car, but they found some place in SoCal that makes custom windscreens. Apparently, you find a windscreen from a modern car that matches the curvature that you need, and they then cut it to the shape you need, so you effectively end up with a new windscreen with modern glass. No idea if this would work for our cars, or if the glass in modern cars is any better than the Chinese-made windscreens we're talking about here, but thought I'd throw that out there, FWIW.
    MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.

  35. #32
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    LEXAN Update

    I did notice that the 3/16" LEXAN is a bit more flexi after install so I installed the ********** mirror support rod but made a bracket that anchors through the body and holds the whole windshield down. This makes the rubber seal to the body fit more uniformly and stiffens up the middle of the windshield a lot. A very worthwhile upgrade.

  36. #33
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Has anyone used urethane to hold a replacement glass, or the lexan ones? It's very common in the auto glass industry. I was thinking it might actually work better as a buffer for any flexing, and/or glass edge faults, causing the cracks.

    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242009&rt=rud

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