Front suspension question

[bnelson]

So was installing front suspension and thought Id use the top hole instead of bottom hole like the manual says to get some rake. After measuring the rake I decided to go to bottom like instructed as I will have a bit already due to tire height and anticipating drop from engine weight.

When moving the lower control arm down I found you could not due it due to bolt head in rear swivel hitting the frame. When looking at instructions I see they show a button head bolt ( see photo below) which was not supplied in my box. Had standard hex bolts. I went to the hardware store and picked some up and I was able to get everything together in the bottom holes with exception of shocks. Had to leave in the top hole or figure a way do depress springs to get in the lower hole. Anyone else experiencing these issues or have any insight as to how much difference the top holes and bottom holes will make? I looked through some of the earlier build pictures and looks like there was only one hole to choose from.

lower control arm.JPG

[FLFrank35]

It looks like you posted this in June; I'm working with this same issue right now. I am installing the shocks with the adjustment ring all the way out so I can raise the upper control high enough to get the spindle on. And I am installing the shock using the top hole and the shock body on top so I can have access to the adjustment ring to adjust the shock later. I hope this is ok.

As far as the lower control arm bolt head, I am having the same issue...I see the manual picture has a button-head screw but I have hex. I am trying to decide whether to install the bolt in from the top or bottom. From the top, the bottom of the bolt rubs on the frame; from the bottom, I won't be able to remove the bolt in the future without removing the control arm...what to do?

[bnelson]

It looks like you posted this in June; I'm working with this same issue right now. I am installing the shocks with the adjustment ring all the way out so I can raise the upper control high enough to get the spindle on. And I am installing the shock using the top hole and the shock body on top so I can have access to the adjustment ring to adjust the shock later. I hope this is ok.

As far as the lower control arm bolt head, I am having the same issue...I see the manual picture has a button-head screw but I have hex. I am trying to decide whether to install the bolt in from the top or bottom. From the top, the bottom of the bolt rubs on the frame; from the bottom, I won't be able to remove the bolt in the future without removing the control arm...what to do?

I went to Ace Hardware and got some button head screws. All worked out once I changed them. If I remember right the ones FFR sent me were hex head metric. I went with SAE but fit was snug. No slack. I still have the shocks in the top hole but am hoping that when the shop adjusts the suspension they can get them in the lower hole to give me some more clearance on the radiator. Let me know what you figure out.

[sperger72]

Leave it in the top, a little rake with that chop top. I am in the upper hole to give a rake. But grill is low.

[FLFrank35]

Contacted Tony at FFR...he said the lower control arm bolt head goes in from the bottom. And he said the shocks are valued to go body-down. I screwed the spring seat ring almost all the to the bottom and was able to spread the ball joint arms to get the spindle in.

No comment on which upper control arm hole to install the shock, but I’m going with the lower hole for more grill clearance.

Extra tip...if you have trouble getting a torque wrench and socket between the control arm ball joints to torque the spindle in place, I used a crow’s foot wrench..worked great. You just have to use an on-line formula to correct the torque for the offset; in this case the 110 ft lbs became 97.

[VIRGIN MIKE]

I'm having same issue with lower control arm; swaped-in button head bolt, still doesn't clear; looking for next best solution

[ztoolman44]

I'm having same issue with lower control arm; swaped-in button head bolt, still doesn't clear; looking for next best solution

Did you ever come up with a solution? I have the same issue. Still mocking everything up so I'll use the top holes for now but am concerned it may ride too low in the end.

Thanks

[sperger72]

Ztoolman44, It is low but clears on my first drive a couple of days aEFFECTS.jpggo.

Zach

[ztoolman44]

Copy that. I can always change it later if its too low. Truck looks great Zach! So does the weather, just shoveled the driveway again today.

[sperger72]

Thank you. 81 degrees. Going to be in the 40s for a high the next few.

Zach

[sperger72]

That is not normal temps this time of year for us.
Avg is 55
Zach

[rponfick]

That is one sturdy hood prop rod.
Looking good.
Ralph

[sperger72]

Only the best raw East Texas pine.

[House Money]

Did you ever come up with a solution? I have the same issue. Still mocking everything up so I'll use the top holes for now but am concerned it may ride too low in the end.

Thanks

FFR redesigned the lower front suspension arms, The bushing sleeves now have longer tabs and the arms and adjuster tubes are shorter as a result. You should call FFR and request the new parts, that's what I did.

Gary

[ztoolman44]

FFR redesigned the lower front suspension arms, The bushing sleeves now have longer tabs and the arms and adjuster tubes are shorter as a result. You should call FFR and request the new parts, that's what I did.

Gary

Thanks Gary.

[VIRGIN MIKE]

I have the new longer arms and button head screws using lower holes, no clearance issues now.

[ztoolman44]

I have the new longer arms and button head screws using lower holes, no clearance issues now.

Did the new longer tabs come with button head screws or is that a user supplied item? Also, with the longer tabs, were you supplied with shorter arms to compensate or is the track width just a smidge wider?

[House Money]

Did the new longer tabs come with button head screws or is that a user supplied item? Also, with the longer tabs, were you supplied with shorter arms to compensate or is the track width just a smidge wider?

I can't speak for what Virgin Mike has, but what I got from FFR was all new lower control arms. The bushing sleeves have longer tabs - about an inch maybe - as well as shorter arms. Before learning of the redesigned parts I too tried the button head bolts and did gain a little over an inch of downward travel, but with the new parts I have even more than that.

Gary

[VIRGIN MIKE]

I have the new bushings and original arms; was advised, I would have adequate adjustment, seems OK but final adjustments still to come