Midwest Classic Insurance

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  2
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Power Steering Conversion

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like

    Power Steering Conversion

    I am putting together a plan to add P/S to my Mk 1 1/2. I am now running a donor Mustang radiator, fan shroud, and overflow tank with the kit supplied 16” cooling fan. Is some/all of this stuff going to have to be removed to replace the steering rack?
    Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.

  2. #2
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    O'Fallon, MO
    Posts
    3,068
    Post Thanks / Like
    No I think with a little time and effort you don't need to mess with the radiator.

  3. #3
    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Littleton, CO
    Posts
    412
    Post Thanks / Like
    PS conversion was my winter project this year. MK4, Unisteer hydraulic rack, Fast Freddie's pump and reservoir. Was able to leave the radiator in place, but the fan and fan shroud had to come out due to interference with the hydraulic transfer lines on the Unisteer rack. The shroud actually could have remained in place as the contact was really only with the hub of the electric fan, but no access to the fan attach bolts without removing the shroud first.

    I found that removing the inner tie rods from the rack made getting the rack in place much, much easier. Easy to reinstall them after the rack is bolted up if you use a tool like that shown below (about $35 at Harbor Freight). Would also suggest picking up a set of 1" rack extenders from Mark at Breeze. His solid offset rack mounting bushings are also a must-have in that they will allow you to easily center the rack within the chassis.

    All-in-all a pretty easy conversion. Hardest part was getting a Unisteer rack that didn't arrive with shipping damage (took me three tries). Oh, and don't forget to hold the rack shaft with a wrench as you remove/install the inner tie rods and rack extenders.

    Good luck!


    -Karl






    Last edited by karlos; 06-25-2019 at 09:41 PM.
    --
    MKIV Roadster #8641
    Complete Kit with IRS, Eaton Detroit Truetrac, 3.55 gears, Wilwood Brakes
    Ford Racing Z427 w/ Pro-M Sequential Port EFI System
    TKO 600 + McLeod Midshifter; Fast Freddie's Electro-Hydraulic power steering
    Miller Customs Bodywork & Paint

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for all the great info, Karl. My 2002 vintage car looks a lot different from yours. I see in the Mk4 assembly manual where they talk about removing and cutting inner tie rods and then adding a steering rack extension like you mention. My assembly manual for the Mk 1 doesn’t have any of that. It just says to screw the inner tie rods in to compensate for the narrower track of the FFR as compared to the Mustang. I wonder if my track is different from yours.
    I can see where the hydraulic hose might get in the way but I am also wondering about room to get the rack mounting bolts out and back in.
    What steering ratio did you get. My current Flaming River rack is Well over 3 turns lock to lock and pretty slow in urban/suburban Houston driving. I am thinking of going with a 2.5.
    Thanks, again.
    B16A9431-16D1-45EA-A3CF-3D6627BA1A6A.jpeg
    Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.

  5. #5
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Blacksburg, Va
    Posts
    4,707
    Post Thanks / Like
    I loved 2.5 for autocross but took it out after trying for 3 months to get used to it on the street. Too quick for this old man. I like 3.0 turns. Especially considering yours is a MkI there have been quite a few iterations of steering since. There are maybe 3 different length tie rod ends and 2 different length inner tie rods. Some combinations require cutting about 3/8 inch from the inner tie rods. If you do the rack extenders more shortening is needed. If you still have the stock MkI UCAs and Fox spindles, I am not sure the extenders will make much difference. If your plan is to slowly upgrade to MkIV specs as I have then they are a start in that direction. BTW, adding PS will allow you to run more caster, which is a good thing up to about 8 deg, so be planning on that.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks, Craig. Your comment re ratio especially helpful. I did upgrade front suspension to the U and LCAs and coil over shocks offered by FFR in 2001. I retained donor spindle and tie rod ends. What is the benefit of the extenders? I am not looking to upgrade beyond just the P/S to get lower effort slow speed steering and the added caster benefit.

    Phil
    Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.

  7. #7
    Senior Member karlos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Littleton, CO
    Posts
    412
    Post Thanks / Like
    3 turn rack for me as well. Seems to be the general consensus for a streetcar and I’m happy with how it works. Quick enough without being twitchy.

    I don’t recall any problem with the rack mounting bolts interfering with the radiator or shroud. But I probably already had the shroud off by then.

    The rack extenders will allow the tie rods to better follow the path of the spindle during suspension movement. This can reduce the tendency to bump steer. But I’m not sure if the rack extenders will benefit a Mk 1; I’d check with Mark before ordering.
    --
    MKIV Roadster #8641
    Complete Kit with IRS, Eaton Detroit Truetrac, 3.55 gears, Wilwood Brakes
    Ford Racing Z427 w/ Pro-M Sequential Port EFI System
    TKO 600 + McLeod Midshifter; Fast Freddie's Electro-Hydraulic power steering
    Miller Customs Bodywork & Paint

  8. Thanks ptstew thanked for this post
  9. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    10
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am also in the process of of changing my power rack for the third time. 1st donor leaked immediately, 2nd (TRW design) leaked after a year, and the replacement autozone (ford design) was working great up to last week and now leaking and rough movement. Replaced the pump with no change. So looking to spec out my next rack.

    QUESTION: I understand the body difference between the TRW and Ford racks, but kdo not know if one offers advantages over the other? I have used both and both seem to operate satisfactorily, albeit they both eventually leaked.

    Any input or rack suggestions is appreciated. Running stock ford pump, Heidts valve, and cooler if your interesting in the setup. Currently have 2.5 LTL but think a 3.0LTL would be better for my driving.

  10. Thanks ptstew thanked for this post
  11. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Squidog View Post
    I am also in the process of of changing my power rack for the third time. 1st donor leaked immediately, 2nd (TRW design) leaked after a year, and the replacement autozone (ford design) was working great up to last week and now leaking and rough movement. Replaced the pump with no change. So looking to spec out my next rack.

    QUESTION: I understand the body difference between the TRW and Ford racks, but kdo not know if one offers advantages over the other? I have used both and both seem to operate satisfactorily, albeit they both eventually leaked.

    Any input or rack suggestions is appreciated. Running stock ford pump, Heidts valve, and cooler if your interesting in the setup. Currently have 2.5 LTL but think a 3.0LTL would be better for my driving.
    I don’t understand the differences either. FFR suggested that based on my setup I go with a “proper Fox body Mustang power rack” which I would guess is what Squidog refers to as the Ford rack.
    Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.

  12. #10
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Navasota, Texas
    Posts
    412
    Post Thanks / Like
    Phil, i might have the rack extenders i took off my car if you want them.
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  13. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Phil, i might have the rack extenders i took off my car if you want them.
    Walt
    Thanks, Walt. I am only at the “thinking about my next project” stage now. I’ll keep this note and get back to you if I go with extenders.
    Phil
    Phil: FFR 3121, Frame #2050, Mk 1.5, built 2002, 1991 donor with Blueprint 302 long block and 1993 Cobra intake, BBK 70mm T/B, no smog, power steering, T-5 and 3.55 rear.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Replica Parts

Visit our community sponsor