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Thread: Replacing the fuel pump on my MKIII - Maybe a bad computer?

  1. #41
    i.e.427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Frank (ie427) mentioned there is a stand alone module that I could replace it with. I’d have to figure out a way to wire it.


    https://www.ebay.com/i/173942057237?...RoCvKcQAvD_BwE

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...134133&jsn=495

    You'd also need a pigtail to wire it in. I've never heard of one of these stock Ford relays letting go but.................... I'd harvest one with the pigtail from a pick and pull. I have a wiring diagram for this David.

    Frank
    i.e.427 is located in the Southern California Inland Empire. We help Factory Five customers and builders realize their dreams by providing assembly, fabrication and maintenance for their Factory Five projects.

  2. #42

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    Frank,

    I actually agree in this case. The only reason for this relay is that the fuel pump draws more than the output transistor on the A9L can provide. It's only rated for around 500ma and the pump likely draws 1.5 amps. BUT the relay contacts are rated for 40 amps, and it doesn't cycle during normal service. It goes ON for 3 seconds to pressurize the system at startup, then goes OFF. As soon as the Crank Position Sensor provides input to the A9L, it closes again, and stays that way as long as the engine is running. If the engine stalls or stops (for whatever reason), the fuel pump relay goes OFF again as a safety measure. I'm concerned the problem is elsewhere.

    Allan

  3. #43
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Frank are you saying I need one of those or both? Are they considered g-3? g-4? g5?

    If I went to a pick-a-part where is this part they located? Will normal electronics shops have new replacement pins?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  4. #44

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    Dave,

    I would pull the relay board from your car and test that relay with a 12v power supply. If it closes, check for continuity between the contacts. It may be OK. No sense in changing a relay that doesn't need changing. My concern is that the signal to close the relay possibly isn't getting to the relay board.

    Allan

  5. #45
    Itchief's Avatar
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    David

    Just another thought on replacing the defective board

    You could use three separate relays with wiring pig tails, three inline fuse holders, lineman’s splices, solder, heat Shrink tubing and wire loom to create your own custom replacement to locate the relays wherever you need to

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  6. #46
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Reset the inertia switch?

  7. #47

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    Dave,

    Do you still have a "test" connector in your wiring harness? If so, do the following (per the diagram in post #3):

    https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-start.899643/

    The jumper should force the fuel pump relay to close and the pump to run continuously. If not, follow the trouble-shooting advise. Inertia switch is a prime candidate.

    Allan

  8. #48
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Definitely a good one to verify. Eliminate the obvious

    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    Reset the inertia switch?
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  9. #49
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Yes Dave that was exactly the thread I was taking about. Also the relay pictures I posted were just a picture I took from amazon for showing what’s on relays. Not the exact one. And also what I meant by modify with dykes (or a dremel) is I knew it was soldered in but looking at specs you can see they are wide terminals factory cut down to be soldered. Typical.
    I also thought of what Itchief said. Not a bad idea. Solder or crimp type connectors to relay. That’s what I meant by modifying it. (Or Mickey Mouse lol) lots of ideas out here so it’s probably getting kind of confusing for you Even if you replaced the relay, Panasonic or my Bosch idea etc etc, my main concern is what is drawing so much current that you keep frying that relay? It’s worked for how long? Fried one relay and your board. Ya think maybe ok bad relay? But two now?
    Somethings up. Also did that other relay actually fry? Or did something go wrong with that mess of a board? And no I’m not bagging on your soldering. Lol Did you check the relay you swapped over? Desolder and break out your multi meter.
    Sorry Dave Everybody HATES electrical problems. Work backwards and eliminate stuff as you go. Don’t get frustrated.
    Wish I lived closer to help. Shoot I wish I could walk right now too!

    Kurt

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  10. #50
    i.e.427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Frank are you saying I need one of those or both? Are they considered g-3? g-4? g5?

    If I went to a pick-a-part where is this part they located? Will normal electronics shops have new replacement pins?

    Both are the same part from different retailers. The CCRM (as it is called by Ford) is usually located on the passenger side inner fender inside the engine compartment. These can be found on most 1994 -2000 Mustangs. Unsure what g-3, g-4 & g-5 are? Not sure what pins you are referring too?

    The CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) controls fuel pump, 2 cooling fans (or high and low fan), ECM, and A/C clutch control. Fan relays are rated to 60amps, fuel pump at 20 amps.
    Last edited by i.e.427; 07-10-2019 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Clarification
    i.e.427 is located in the Southern California Inland Empire. We help Factory Five customers and builders realize their dreams by providing assembly, fabrication and maintenance for their Factory Five projects.

  11. #51
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    You guys really spooked me. I thought I had checked the inertia switch but went and double-checked and it is not tripped.

    I have to admin my eyes glaze over when I read about running ground trip wires eec test wires, bla bla bla. (adhd I guess, just can't get through the post on testing)

    Not sure what I want to do. Well, what I want to do is tear out the whole harness!

    Going back to Frank's solution, buying a replacement module looks like it could work, I just don't know where to buy the pigtail, how to wire it in, run new pins etc.

    So yeah. wiring is frustrating for me...



    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  12. #52

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    Dave,

    I wish I were closer to you; this isn't rocket science. You either have +12volts to the relay board, or you don't. Your relay board either has a ground, or it doesn't. You've got to start with the basics. Depending on your wiring harness, there could also be a fusible link in the harness. Changing the relay will buy you nothing if there is no signal to turn it on. Can you beg, borrow, or steal a logic probe? Even a test light will do. Assuming that "some" of the led's on that board are ON when the key is in RUN, there has to be a simple reason why the signal to turn ON the fuel pump isn't there. It "could" be a bad relay, but that's highly unlikely as Frank said. Not impossible, but unlikely. Certainly not worth the hassle of replacing the relay, only to have it NOT be the problem. Using a logic probe, or even a cheap HF voltmeter, you could check to see if you have +12v IMMEDIATELY after turning the ignition switch to RUN (first 3 seconds only). If not, you need to trace the fuel pump wiring back to a place where you DO have +12v for 3 seconds in RUN. If you get all the way to the A9L, and there is no +12V, then the driver transistor on the computer is shot. It happens. The circuit is pretty simple.

    Allan

  13. #53
    i.e.427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    You guys really spooked me.
    Not sure what I want to do. Well, what I want to do is tear out the whole harness!

    Going back to Frank's solution, buying a replacement module looks like it could work, I just don't know where to buy the pigtail, how to wire it in, run new pins etc.

    So yeah. wiring is frustrating for me...


    I feel a junk yard run! Nothing better than cruising through a junk yard looking for cool stuff. I have the wiring diagram as well, although I think I already mentioned that.
    i.e.427 is located in the Southern California Inland Empire. We help Factory Five customers and builders realize their dreams by providing assembly, fabrication and maintenance for their Factory Five projects.

  14. #54
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Frank (and friends),

    Is there a way to just bypass the fuel pump relay circuit on this board altogether, maybe run it independently with a switch and relay through the i-squared harness?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  15. #55
    i.e.427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Frank (and friends),

    Is there a way to just bypass the fuel pump relay circuit on this board altogether, maybe run it independently with a switch and relay through the i-squared harness?

    I don't see any reason you couldn't wire in a separate relay, bypassing the I-Squared relay.
    i.e.427 is located in the Southern California Inland Empire. We help Factory Five customers and builders realize their dreams by providing assembly, fabrication and maintenance for their Factory Five projects.

  16. #56

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    Dave,

    The fuel pump relay is normally controlled by the A9L so the pump doesn't run when the engine isn't running. It's a safety issue. Obviously, if you were in a collision and had a fire, having the pump run would be a total disaster. There is no reason why you couldn't power the fuel pump directly from the battery, with nothing more than a fuse. Wire it to the RUN side of the ignition circuit. That way it will run all the time when the switch is in the RUN position. You might also want to include the intertia switch in that circuit, to have at least some level of protection in the case of a collision.

    The relay is only there because the A9L can't supply enough power to run the pump. When the pump runs continuously, excess pressure gets returned to the fuel tank by the fuel pressure regulator. That's why the pump only runs for 3 seconds when the ignition switch is first placed in RUN. The pump only runs continuously when the engine is running (and the A9L "sees" pulses from the CPS (Crank Position Sensor).

    To add to this, pin 22 of the A9L goes LOW (ground) to activate the fuel pump relay. That's what the jumper on the test connector does, it bypasses that computer supplied low. There is a 1.5ohm resistor in that circuit that sometimes goes bad. I can send you the pinout of the A9L connector, if you need it. The fuel pump relay has 12v on it all the time, always HOT in other words. Merely grounding the control line to that relay should turn that relay ON.

    Allan
    Last edited by videodude; 07-18-2019 at 11:34 AM.

  17. #57
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    OK so if I run a line that starts from the I-squared power unit, and splice it to the line exiting the blown circuit board, that would work without a relay? (I'd hook a switch up to the switch unit that feeds the power unit so I can flip it on before starting) I believe that would save the inertia switch functionality...

    10 amp fuse should do it?




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  18. #58
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by videodude View Post
    Dave,

    The fuel pump relay is normally controlled by the A9L so the pump doesn't run when the engine isn't running. It's a safety issue. Obviously, if you were in a collision and had a fire, having the pump run would be a total disaster. There is no reason why you couldn't power the fuel pump directly from the battery, with nothing more than a fuse. Wire it to the RUN side of the ignition circuit. That way it will run all the time when the switch is in the RUN position. You might also want to include the intertia switch in that circuit, to have at least some level of protection in the case of a collision.

    The relay is only there because the A9L can't supply enough power to run the pump. When the pump runs continuously, excess pressure gets returned to the fuel tank by the fuel pressure regulator. That's why the pump only runs for 3 seconds when the ignition switch is first placed in RUN. The pump only runs continuously when the engine is running (and the A9L "sees" pulses from the CPS (Crank Position Sensor).

    To add to this, pin 22 of the A9L goes LOW (ground) to activate the fuel pump relay. That's what the jumper on the test connector does, it bypasses that computer supplied low. There is a 1.5ohm resistor in that circuit that sometimes goes bad. I can send you the pinout of the A9L connector, if you need it. The fuel pump relay has 12v on it all the time, always HOT in other words. Merely grounding the control line to that relay should turn that relay ON.

    Allan
    Allen,

    I'd really like to test and see if that resistor went out. Can you send me (or just post to this thread) the 9L pinout with some instructions on how exactly to test? I'm still a newbie at this stuff and don't want to blow up my computer!!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  19. #59

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    Dave,

    Do you still have a test connector in your harness? It's part of a standard Mustang harness. I'll try to find a picture and send it along.

    Allan

  20. #60
    mburger's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of the test connector I grabbed from a Google search. Mine is near the master cylinder.

    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 stock 1990 EFI 302, T5, 8.8 axle 3:55, 5 lug, PS, 4 wheel disc PB, Heidts, heat, fresh air vents, RT TS, windshield wings, FFR front/rear lower control arms, Speedhut gauges, Alex's glovebox, rear coil overs 300lbs. 71K on the motor and 7,300k on the car.

  21. #61
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by videodude View Post
    Dave,

    Do you still have a test connector in your harness? It's part of a standard Mustang harness. I'll try to find a picture and send it along.

    Allan
    Quote Originally Posted by mburger View Post
    Here's a pic of the test connector I grabbed from a Google search. Mine is near the master cylinder.

    I think I do have that plug. I'll post a pic tonight.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  22. #62

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    Dave,

    If you've got that plug, there is a pair of contacts that can be jumped (or switched) to force the fuel pump to run continuously (for diagnostic purposes, of course . . .). The test jumper effectively grounds pin 22 of the ECM (the A9L) which should close the existing relay on the board. If it doesn't enable the relay, then you can take more drastic action, like running a new wire from +12v to a switch to the inertia switch (and then on to the fuel pump), thus totally bypassing the relay.

    Allan
    Last edited by videodude; 07-19-2019 at 05:19 PM.

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  24. #63
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by videodude View Post
    Dave,

    If you've got that plug, there is a pair of contacts that can be jumped (or switched) to force the fuel pump to run continuously (for diagnostic purposes, of course . . .)

    Allan
    It's tempting to throw a switch across that as a solution

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  25. #64

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    Dave,

    Try a jumper first; see if the fuel pump relay closes and if the fuel pump runs. That will tell you a lot about what is going on. I sent you a link in post #47 showing which pins to jump.

    Allan
    Last edited by videodude; 07-19-2019 at 05:25 PM.

  26. #65
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Thanks Allen!

    I assume this is it?




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  27. #66

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    Yes sir!

    If the jumper doesn't do anything (the relay doesn't "click" and the pump doesn't run), then either the relay is bad OR the wiring to/from the relay is bad. In this case, running a new wire from +12 to the dk.grn/yel. wire of the inertia switch "should" make the relay run all the time. I would put a switch in that circuit. I send you an eBay link earlier to a vendor that has the EXACT correct relay for sale, if you wanted to repair it back to "stock". It is , however, a solder-in relay. Just like the ECM power relay.

    If the jumper forces the relay to close and the fuel pump runs, then the ground from the ECM OR the wiring from the ECM (pin 22 in particular) is at fault. I have read that there is a 1.5 ohm resistor that fails (what would be commonly be called a "pull-down" resistor), which would likely be caused by a higher than normal amperage load (but possibly NOT enough to blow the fuse). In order to find that resistor, you would need to remove the ECM, trace from Pin 22 back to the resistor, and change it. There is NO schematic available (that I know of) for the A9L, I've never been able to find one. I only know what I've read online. If that resistor is cooked, you probably won't be able to read the bands on it to see the value. BUT, since Pete (Big Blocker) has a spare A9P, that part of the circuit should be the same and we can look at that one for the value; it ought to work and probably isn't critical. It is also possible that the driver transistor could also have gone bad. This would take more advanced troubleshooting (but not impossible).

    If you're not comfortable doing PC level repair on your ECM, I am more than happy to do it. Again. LOL!

    Allan
    Last edited by videodude; 07-19-2019 at 07:42 PM.

  28. #67
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by videodude View Post
    In order to find that resistor, you would need to remove the ECM, trace from Pin 22 back to the resistor, and change it. There is NO schematic available (that I know of) for the A9L, I've never been able to find one. Allan
    Is this what your looking for?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #68
    mburger's Avatar
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    If it comes down to it, I have a spare working A9L you can test with etc.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 stock 1990 EFI 302, T5, 8.8 axle 3:55, 5 lug, PS, 4 wheel disc PB, Heidts, heat, fresh air vents, RT TS, windshield wings, FFR front/rear lower control arms, Speedhut gauges, Alex's glovebox, rear coil overs 300lbs. 71K on the motor and 7,300k on the car.

  30. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    Is this what your looking for?
    Bill,

    No, that is the the ECM chassis wiring diagram, what I have been looking for is the actual schematic diagram of the A9L itself, down to the component level. I suspect that it's available somewhere, but not publicly. Something that gives the component values and transistor/Integrated Circuit types, and how they are connected. I have the diagram you posted, but thanks anyway.

    Allan

    Allan

  31. #70
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I've been busy with a new job and just go a chance to test the jump wire.

    I installed a wire as shown in by the read dotted line in the image in post #65 and turned the ignition key to the run position.

    Nothing happened.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  32. #71

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    Dave,

    That means that either the relay coil is bad, or the wiring to the relay is bad (including the fuse, which I am sure you checked). The jumper simulates the "low" normally supplied by pin 22 of the ECM. Run a fused wire from the RUN side (+12v) of your ignition circuit to the fuel pump (hook it up to the intertia switch so you have some protection). Your fuel pump will run continuously when the ignition is in RUN.

    Or, we can trouble shoot the relay and it's associated wiring. Your choice.

    Allan

  33. #72
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    That sucks
    If everything seems under control, youíre just not going fast enough....

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  34. #73
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post


    That sucks
    Yes. Yes it does. That's what I get for going with a non-traditional harness. Never again!

    Quote Originally Posted by videodude View Post
    Dave,

    That means that either the relay coil is bad, or the wiring to the relay is bad (including the fuse, which I am sure you checked). The jumper simulates the "low" normally supplied by pin 22 of the ECM. Run a fused wire from the RUN side (+12v) of your ignition circuit to the fuel pump (hook it up to the intertia switch so you have some protection). Your fuel pump will run continuously when the ignition is in RUN.

    Or, we can trouble shoot the relay and it's associated wiring. Your choice.

    Allan
    Allen, since I have an I-Squared harness, I am planning to utilize an existing dash switch, replacing the seat heater with a switched circuit to the pump. I plan to run a wire from the power unit and connect to the existing wire exits the existing relay module. That line goes from the module, through the inertia switch, to the pump.

    I'll be doing this on Saturday, after as planned trip to see some of the So_cal boys at Maniac Mikes.

    Wish me luck!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  35. #74
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSNK4US View Post
    Oh but on the plus side of it all Dave.....

    You have a new access hole!!!
    Yeah! It'll be ready for the next time the doesn't need to change the pump.

    That sucks that you went through all that for a relay. Get two. They are pretty much all junk these days. It is easy to dive in without checking the simple stuff sometimes.

  36. #75
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    After studying the board here is my plan as of now

    I have a spare fused 12V power source. I'm going to run a power line from the switched source to the wires on the other side of this board. Starting from the top I'l plug into the wires at position 2 and three in the red box. I will extract the wires from the plug and connect them directly to the power source. I believe on goes to the inertia switch and one goes to the pump. I will trace the wires for continuity before connecting 12v power.



    Here is the top of the board for reference:


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  37. #76
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Well I connected the wires and tested for continuity. Everything was in alignment so I connected the pump and turned the key to the on position. Tested for 12 volts at the pump. Check. Plugged in the pump and turned they key again...It worked! I could hear the pump running.

    So I went to the gas station and picked up 1-1/2 gallons of gas. Turned the key and got fuel pressure!

    Turned the key and cranked it over....


    No start. the board is telling me the eec has power. What's wrong now?

    What did I miss?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  38. #77

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    Dave,

    Sorry, didn't see this until today (we got a new dog from the shelter, she has been taking up most of our time).

    Fuel, Spark, Air. That's all it takes. So, Air is pretty much a given, assuming you now have fuel pressure in your fuel rail (and not just air), either the injectors are NOT getting a signal to squirt, or your plugs are NOT getting a signal to fire. So, let's start with the easy one: Do you a have spark tester? If so, use it, otherwise you should be able to see a nice fat spark in the gap of a plug while the engine is being cranked. Do this in a dark garage, the blue spark doesn't show up well in the sunlight. If you have spark, then we need to see if injectors are squirting, which isn't so easy. Try the spark first. Even with a bad Crank Position Sensor (which controls your timing), you should have spark. Try that first, please.

    After that, please call me. 1-510-557-4615 It's going to be easier to do this by voice (and I can conference in Pete <Big Blocker>) than sending messages back and forth.

    Allan

  39. #78
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    No Spark.

    I want to ask a question about the relay. I'm wondering if there is a switch not closing?



    Quote Originally Posted by videodude View Post
    Frank,

    I actually agree in this case. The only reason for this relay is that the fuel pump draws more than the output transistor on the A9L can provide. It's only rated for around 500ma and the pump likely draws 1.5 amps. BUT the relay contacts are rated for 40 amps, and it doesn't cycle during normal service. It goes ON for 3 seconds to pressurize the system at startup, then goes OFF. As soon as the Crank Position Sensor provides input to the A9L, it closes again, and stays that way as long as the engine is running. If the engine stalls or stops (for whatever reason), the fuel pump relay goes OFF again as a safety measure. I'm concerned the problem is elsewhere.

    Allan
    I don't know squat about relays. But I know you described a line that goes from the ecu to the relay that turns on the pump when switched power is supplied. It turns off after 3 seconds until engine crank?

    If this is the switch from the ecu, can I just close it with switched power? If So, how do I handle the signal? To ground? To 12V? To something else because I don't know squat about relays?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  40. #79
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    David,
    You don't have your plug wire near enough to a ground to see a spark if one is present. If you can get the metal terminal ~ 1/8" from a solid ground it should show but better yet is to put a plug on the end then hold the body to ground (or use a jumper with alligator clips). If there is spark being generated you should see it between the center electrode and plug's ground strap.

    Good luck,
    Jeff

  41. #80
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I was talking to Allen yesterday and one thing that I've noticed is that my check engine light isn't coming on when I turn the key to the run position.

    Allen thinks that is an indication of a computer that has gone south...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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