Anyone used the SFI Quick Time Bellhousing with a Coyote?

[Cruzzz]

If you have did you or how much did you trim off the block plate and bottom of the housing? Also did you run into any interference with the frame when installing? There are a few older posts that mention there might be interference. I’m aware trimming may negate the SFI cert for certain racing situations. Pictures are appreciated if you have them. Thanks!

[Ducky2009]

First off, Yes, It is below the frame rails. No, I didn't trim. Check your race rules, if you plan to race. My kit was delivered Jan 2017 and I had no interference issues. I say that because I'm not sure what frame modifications may have happened.... i.e. was there interference prior to that date.

EDITED: Rough measurement - Wood propped up against frame rails. Approx 1 1/4" below the frame rails.
Note: As you can see, I've rubbed the ground a few times.

Steel Bellhousing below Frame measurement.jpg

[Cruzzz]

Thanks Ducky! I haven’t test fit the engine yet but measured everything out this morning and didn’t see any obvious interference. I have the newest version of the frame received in February this year.

[edwardb]

I used the non-SFI Quicktime RM-6080 in my Coyote build based on recommendations from other builders. It fits with no interference and is the same depth as the Moroso oil pan, so doesn't hang below the frame. Of course it's not SFI certified. Not important to me because I don't use my car where that would be an issue. But clearly provides considerably more protection than the cast aluminum style bell. I've seen posts where some have reported interference with the frame diagonal that crosses in that area when using the SFI version, but it's been a couple years. Maybe something has changed. But the full circle on the bottom of the bell clearly will extend below the frame. There was a post awhile back where a builder left the circle below the frame and as luck would have it, hit something. A speed bump as I recall, but not positive. It did some serious damage. So not a decision to take lightly.

While I realize some differences to your build, this picture may be useful. For my Gen 3 Coupe build, with a Coyote and T-56, the only choice for a bell is an SFI rated Quicktime. With the engine installed, the back of the Moroso oil pan is exactly at the level of the frame. The circle on the Quicktime bell extends the pictured amount. I would expect yours will be similar. I did choose to cut mine off. It takes the three bottom bolts out of action, but it's still closed, and is similar to the non-SFI version in that area. Still provides more than adequate protection for my purposes. You'll have to decide what is best for you. There are clearly pluses and minuses either way.

[Cruzzz]

Thanks Paul. It was only $30 more to go with the SFI version so I thought that was little money for what I figured was even more safety. I assume the SFI not only has the bolts all the way around but is also stronger when compared to the non SFI. In trading these out I didn’t realize how much lower it hangs. At this point it isn’t worth returning for the non SFI so I think I will just trim the bottom. I also don’t plan to race in anything sanction.

[jamminj]

I used the non-SFI Quicktime RM-6080 in my Coyote build based on recommendations from other builders. It fits with no interference and is the same depth as the Moroso oil pan, so doesn't hang below the frame. Of course it's not SFI certified. Not important to me because I don't use my car where that would be an issue. But clearly provides considerably more protection than the cast aluminum style bell. I've seen posts where some have reported interference with the frame diagonal that crosses in that area when using the SFI version, but it's been a couple years. Maybe something has changed. But the full circle on the bottom of the bell clearly will extend below the frame. There was a post awhile back where a builder left the circle below the frame and as luck would have it, hit something. A speed bump as I recall, but not positive. It did some serious damage. So not a decision to take lightly.

While I realize some differences to your build, this picture may be useful. For my Gen 3 Coupe build, with a Coyote and T-56, the only choice for a bell is an SFI rated Quicktime. With the engine installed, the back of the Moroso oil pan is exactly at the level of the frame. The circle on the Quicktime bell extends the pictured amount. I would expect yours will be similar. I did choose to cut mine off. It takes the three bottom bolts out of action, but it's still closed, and is similar to the non-SFI version in that area. Still provides more than adequate protection for my purposes. You'll have to decide what is best for you. There are clearly pluses and minuses either way.

I'll be running in the 8's I will need the 6.1cert
sfi rules dictate the lip around the bottom of bellhousing i checked with Browell to se if there was any loop hole we could fall into but No

[edwardb]

I'll be running in the 8's I will need the 6.1cert
sfi rules dictate the lip around the bottom of bellhousing i checked with Browell to se if there was any loop hole we could fall into but No

If you're running in the 8's you've got a lot more to think about than just the bottom of the bellhousing. As my comments state -- my decision to cut off the bottom was based on my intended use (all street cruising) and the belief that it provides adequate protection for that purpose. Clearly that doesn't apply in your case. Just watch out. With a normal ride height you'll only be at 2-3 inches of clearance.

[q4stix]

An alternative to risking hitting the bellhousing first is to weld a couple steel wedges onto the bottom of the frame.
If you're lowering your ground clearance anyway with the bottom of the bellhousing, you might as well use the frame to guide the car over the bump or whatever it is. You're more likely to prevent damage that way to the frame and to your drivetrain.

[Al_C]

With a normal ride height you'll only be at 2-3 inches of clearance.

Paul is correct. Speed bumps were a continual issue. I trimmed mine. Here's the intended line:



and the actual line:



I don't race it, so I'm less concerned about all the bolts; however, I did want to preserve as much as I could. I just didn't make a very straight line!

[jamminj]

I have a million things to think about
I'll live with the lip
I'm running a slipper clutch
custom half shafts
chrome moly control arms
liberty built transmission

[mike223]

I have a million things to think about

You might want to think about chassis / cage certification.

Otherwise there's not much point to building it to run 8's.


I built mine for 10's (and there's not much point to that in a Mk4).

What tires do you want to run and how fast do you want to go + still spin them at will?


Sorry if that gets too far off track.

[jamminj]

slipper clutch and engine management control's spin
type r frame and cage will get my past inspection the on the track
if i need to do mods i will when forced
when at the drag strip ill be running Micky Thomson drag slicks

[Hoooper]

A lip @ 2.5" off the ground is obviously a much smaller issue in a dedicated drag strip car than it is on a track or street driven car like the OP is intending. At that clearance how can you even go over a speed bump in a shopping center? Not surprised to hear someone did serious damage to their car leaving the lip on there, one surprise bump, speed bump, raised pothole, ladder on the freeway, etc. and youve got a major problem

[jamminj]

I'm using a Browell 164t slant back mod/coyote t56 with inspection window
8.5" center of crank to bottom of bell
i went over to a friend who's building a type 65 like i will be and his engine measured 7 7/16 from center of crank to bottom of frame rails
that wont be to bad put my bell 1 1/16 bellow frame rails