Thanks in advance for any guidance here. I'm installing the pedal box assembly. I have two questions. The Clutch Quadrant Stop doesn't seem right to me. Following the 'limited' manual instructions, it leaves a lock nut as the stop. Pictures of the top and bottom of the 'stop' bolt attached. I'm sure this is a pretty basic issue, but I am a novice. The second question is; I've read a lot on the Forum about using a hydraulic clutch instead of the cable. Are there any disadvantages with using the cable setup? Trying to keep things simplified for my first build. Thanks again.
The nut should be sandwiching the small plate. The pic in the instructions is upside down but does show this. Remove the two bolts and tighten the stop bolt to the small plate before installing to the pedal box. Should fix your problem.
Cable vs hydraulic. Yes, hydraulic is smoother. I used the cable supplied by FF and the clutch was very hard to push. First thought, it's a heavy duty clutch. With 1,000 miles or so, the cable broke. I purchased the Ford cable, P/N M-7553-C302 ($60 plus tax) and it's now easy to push. The Ford cable had nylon (or similar looking) bushing ends and the cable moves easier then the original. It's also adjustable at the transmission end.
I lubricated Both with graphite lub prior to installation.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
Thanks David. Great info and advice. Can't believe that I missed that about the proper placement of the nut. I'm going to stick with cable setup and I'll get the Ford part for longevity and ease. Really appreciate the help.
One tip if you are going to use the FFR cable clutch. The bolt that was supplied for this assembly was too short to get the pedal adjusted to align with the brake pedal on my build. I swapped to a longer bolt and got the adjustment I was looking for.
Before:
After:
For what it's worth, in my case the cable clutch feels fine and doesn't take enhanced Lance Armstrong legs to use it. My clutch is what was provided by BluePrint. I also added an adjuster at the entry point where the cable passes through the foot box to make minor adjustments simple.
Knowing what I know now, I’d likely go hydraulic if I had it to do over again
I will say the new Ford cable feels better and I was able to adjust the pedal to a more comfortable position, but I sense I’ll be doing a full hydraulic conversion in the future. I’m not fully confident the new quadrant design will cure the offset problem. Those with the over the pedal quadrant are certainly in a better position
FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.
Knowing what I know now, I’d likely go hydraulic if I had it to do over again
I will say the new Ford cable feels better and I was able to adjust the pedal to a more comfortable position, but I sense I’ll be doing a full hydraulic conversion in the future. I’m not fully confident the new quadrant design will cure the offset problem. Those with the over the pedal quadrant are certainly in a better position
Thanks John. I'm opting for the simplicity of the cable. I'll get the Ford cable this week. Mine is the 'over the pedal' quadrant, so I think it should work just fine. Thanks again.