Initial Body Fitment Question

[cv2065]

I was able to sit the body on for the first time today. Felt pretty good! I trimmed the rolled lip on the dash 1/4" and the rear cockpit lip about 1/8" before I mounted the body. Stayed a little conservative here to start. Once the body was on, quick jack bolts went in front and back.

Main issue that I see is the front driver's side wheel well is not centered on the wheel and was hoping I could get some advice as the quick jack bolts are in and doesn't seem like I have a lot of movement to work with? The car is still on jack stands but the difference from side to side is pretty noticeable.

Passenger side centering:


Driver's side centering:

The distance to floor of the front and rear quick jack bolts are equidistant. I also took a measurements from both front shock towers to the wheel well lip and they are equidistant as well.

The body seems to line up flush with the door latch brackets as I've seen in other threads for another reference point. Here's some pics:





I also took a picture of the front engine bay and not sure if its the 3/4" radiator tube that's off a bit, or if the body is sitting a little crooked. Either way, if I moved to straighten it 'seems' that it would accentuate the driver's side wheel well off center even more as it would need to move to the rear.



Good news is that other than the part of the dash around the speedo needing another 1/8" trim, the rest of the dash fits like a glove.

I realize its hard to diagnose online and pics, but any suggestions as to how to get the wheel well aligned on the driver's side would be appreciated.

[michael everson]

I have seen both of those issues on most mark 4s. the radiator one looks bad now but once everything is mounted you wont see it.
Theres not much you can do about the wheel centering on the driver side.
Mike

[cv2065]

Thanks Mike. I measured from the 3/4” radiator tube to the x frame on both sides and they are equidistant, so I know the tube is straight. I guess I never really paid much attention to the driver’s side wheel well centering on other MKIV’s.

[edwardb]

I've not seen differences like that on the front wheel wells on the two Mk4's I've done. Just went out and looked at #8674 to confirm. It's very close side-to-side. Don't remember from your build thread -- is your front alignment complete? That could make a big difference. I've seen that radiator tube off that much on multiple builds. Ignore it, and as Mike said, you won't see it with the hood mounted. Don't attempt to align anything there. Do what you're doing, e.g. center the body side-to-side by measuring from the wheel lips to a fixed spot on the suspension.

[cv2065]

I've not seen differences like that on the front wheel wells on the two Mk4's I've done. Just went out and looked at #8674 to confirm. It's very close side-to-side. Don't remember from your build thread -- is your front alignment complete? That could make a big difference. I've seen that radiator tube off that much on multiple builds. Ignore it, and as Mike said, you won't see it with the hood mounted. Don't attempt to align anything there. Do what you're doing, e.g. center the body side-to-side by measuring from the wheel lips to a fixed spot on the suspension.

Paul - I haven't had an alignment done as of yet. Just getting fitment right now to mount my dash and seats. I'll pull off the body again to make a few adjustments. Working towards the go kart run as soon as I get my headers back.

[edwardb]

Paul - I haven't had an alignment done as of yet. Just getting fitment right now to mount my dash and seats. I'll pull off the body again to make a few adjustments. Working towards the go kart run as soon as I get my headers back.

Then I wouldn't put a lot of stock in what you're seeing. Caster changes could move things around. I would at least have a rough alignment before a go kart.

[cv2065]

Then I wouldn't put a lot of stock in what you're seeing. Caster changes could move things around. I would at least have a rough alignment before a go kart.

Will do. Thanks!

[j.miller]

Car was designed to use a Mustang radiator....hence the angle. Been like that from day one...da bat

[AC Bill]

Yes, without an alignment, it's impossible to know if it's actually the body fit. Everything else seems good, so that's more then likely the reason.

The body should actually sit down on the bulb seal on the firewall, so I am confused about your having to trim the dash? Is the issue the roll on the body, at the front of the cockpit? The MKiV's all seem to need some of the roll trimmed off, on the inside to fit the dash.

[Jeff Kleiner]

---The picture of where your door striker tab is in reference to the body's door opening flange indicates the body is not far enough forward.
---Where the wheel is in the wheelwell means nothing until it is aligned and on the ground.
---Body position is not determined by the tubing around the hood opening;the opening is crooked. Center the front by measuring from the top of the wheel well lip back to the shock tower.

Jeff

[cv2065]

Car was designed to use a Mustang radiator....hence the angle. Been like that from day one...da bat

Makes sense. Thanks DB

[cv2065]

Yes, without an alignment, it's impossible to know if it's actually the body fit. Everything else seems good, so that's more then likely the reason.

The body should actually sit down on the bulb seal on the firewall, so I am confused about your having to trim the dash? Is the issue the roll on the body, at the front of the cockpit? The MKiV's all seem to need some of the roll trimmed off, on the inside to fit the dash.

Bill - The body does sit down perfectly on the bulb seal of the firewall. Once I put the front jacks in, it lifted the front up off of the 3/4" radiator tube. The issue is as you mentioned, where the dash roll needs to be trimmed off a little more. I started with 1/4" at the front, which 'seems' to be enough except for roughly 4" right above the speedo area. The rest of it fits pretty good at this point, unless I need to move something.

[cv2065]

---The picture of where your door striker tab is in reference to the body's door opening flange indicates the body is not far enough forward.
---Where the wheel is in the wheelwell means nothing until it is aligned and on the ground.
---Body position is not determined by the tubing around the hood opening;the opening is crooked. Center the front by measuring from the top of the wheel well lip back to the shock tower.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. Regarding the door striker, the door opening is roughly flush with the striker. Is this incorrect? I am including a couple more pics from a different angle. I also took a couple of the rear cockpit wall, where i have about 1/8" space and then the rear trunk panel. Between the trunk panel and body, there is about 1/8" space there as well.









Next steps are to lower it to the ground so I can get some accurate measurements, and then see about getting a rough alignment. Thanks again for the feedback.

[cv2065]

So I just read Shark’s thread and he was able to get about 5/16” past the door striker. I’m about flush now so seems that I have some pulling to do. I may have to pull the body off first and cut more off of the dash roll near the Speedo, as that 1/4” or so will have the dash roll well into to my dash on that side. Looks like I have plenty of room on the passenger side from roll to dash

Is it better to pull the quick jack bolts for more movement and then install again or leave them in for alignment?

[CraigS]

Once you have the body a little more forward where it needs to be, use something about 1/8 inch thick. Hold it against the dash just below the body roll. Slide it along the dash and use a sharpie to scripe that 1/8 inch onto the body edge. Then when you pull the body, you have a line to grind/sand to. For a quick semi alignment go to the passenger side and measure the lengths of the sleeves of the UCA. I think easiest would be UCA pivot grease fitting to upper ball joint grease fitting. Then make the driver side the same. This won't give alignment specs but will get you closer to both sides being the same.

[cv2065]

Once you have the body a little more forward where it needs to be, use something about 1/8 inch thick. Hold it against the dash just below the body roll. Slide it along the dash and use a sharpie to scripe that 1/8 inch onto the body edge. Then when you pull the body, you have a line to grind/sand to. For a quick semi alignment go to the passenger side and measure the lengths of the sleeves of the UCA. I think easiest would be UCA pivot grease fitting to upper ball joint grease fitting. Then make the driver side the same. This won't give alignment specs but will get you closer to both sides being the same.

Thanks Craig. I think I can go ahead and mount my dash as the vertical height of the body will remain the same. That will give me a little clearance to adjust the body forward without rubbing the dash. I’ll then adjust the body so I can get my seat install correct. Then pull the body and make the trimming adjustments.

I’ll use the alignment tips as well. I know both sides are a little different in terms of tube length.

[cv2065]

Tugged on it a bit and now have a 5/16" gap on both sides. Seems like I have more room under the passenger side dash roll than the driver's, but dash still fits well except for area noted above that needs trimming.

[shark92651]

So I just read Shark’s thread and he was able to get about 5/16” past the door striker. I’m about flush now so seems that I have some pulling to do. I may have to pull the body off first and cut more off of the dash roll near the Speedo, as that 1/4” or so will have the dash roll well into to my dash on that side. Looks like I have plenty of room on the passenger side from roll to dash

Is it better to pull the quick jack bolts for more movement and then install again or leave them in for alignment?

After my initial test fit I had to trim a bit more off of the cockpit roll as it was still making contact with the dash even after cutting off 1/4" the first time. I also trimmed the rear roll, mostly because it was just so uneven.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Tugged on it a bit and now have a 5/16" gap on both sides... [/URL]

That will be much better.

Jeff

[j.miller]

I trim front and back roll to 1/2 in from the apex of the roll. Both sides just need to be in front of the striker tab.....they shouldn't be equal side to side. Driver side should be just a bit further forward ...da Bat

[cv2065]

Thanks again guys. Now working on a workable front alignment.