Very Cool Parts

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  1
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: 351W Running Hot

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    220
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1

    351W Running Hot

    Hello Roadsters,

    I have a Mark IV Roadster with a 351W at 400 HP. I have been running too hot to drive. I am at 220 before getting out of my neighborhood. Here is what I have fixed/changed since:

    1. Fluid
    2. Thermostat (180) i tried a 160 as well
    3. Radiator Cap
    4. Water Pump

    I am suspecting a radiator. I have the FFR supplied radiator approximately 6 years old. I've had the car on the road for 5 years with no overhead issues.

    Potential Causes:
    1. Need to burp the expansion tank
    2. Clogged Radiator

    Thoughts:
    1. Swap out the current radiator for an aluminum bigger core radiator.
    2. Remove the "F" panel square expansion tank and go to a straight tube set up.

    Help Please.

    Sam,

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    249
    Post Thanks / Like
    I think it’s important to address the air direction into and out of the radiator. Try to make sure all the air coming into the grill opening is going into the radiator. Plenty of vendors out there with good components to help. Mike Everton sells a nice piece for the grill opening area and Breeze has a piece that fills the gap from the top of the radiator to the body. I made panels to fit on the side of the radiator to protect it in the wheel openings. Can’t emphasize enough the importance of a shroud to attach the fan to. Make sure the fan works properly. Mine comes on at 180-190. It’s thermostatically controlled by a sensor screwed into the engine near the thermostat and has an override switch on the dash. As yet have never had an issue. The round overflow tank was undersized for my motor. Empty when cold full when warmed up. Got a larger square unit from Canton Racing with a sight tube attached. No guessing fluid level anymore. Good luck.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    79
    Post Thanks / Like
    Is this problem all the sudden?

    220 before going out of your neighborhood?
    You temp should barely reach 185F, unless your neighborhood is really big.
    I'm thinking air bubble in your coolant system in the engine, try to bleed everything before swapping expensive part.
    Last edited by Francky; 07-08-2019 at 08:02 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Marana, AZ
    Posts
    328
    Post Thanks / Like
    How long has this problem been happening? You say your build is 6 yrs old. Is that build time, or is there some driving time in there without this issue? If this issue has been going on since you started driving, I suspect that there is air trapped in your cooling system as Francky suggested above. There have been several threads on this forum suggesting that the front of these cars need to be elevated to get all the air out of the cooling system when first filling.
    FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)

  5. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    2,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    Are you referring only to the gauge when determining 220 is too hot? Are there other signs that you are running hot?

    The first thing a good technician does is to verify the complaint. In this case, verify that your 220-degree reading is accurate before throwing parts at the problem.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  6. Likes brewha liked this post
  7. #6
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Lilburn, GA
    Posts
    774
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sam, try warming the car up, shutting it off, and CAREFULLY touching the radiator ALL OVER. See if it's the same temp all over. If you find cool spots, it needs replaced, or it could be rodded out.

    FYI... Was nice meeting you on Sunday at the car show.

    Ducky aka David
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 07-09-2019 at 02:14 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Martin's Dent and Collision Shop

Visit our community sponsor