Congrats on your new car. Pretty sure I know which one you purchased and it's a beauty. Couple of comments:
Ride height: Be very careful.
You're doing it wrong. Don't want to scare you, but you could be creating a dangerous handling condition there. First, ride height is measured from the ground to the frame rails.
Not by measuring the tires in the body opening. Second, you
never use the coilovers to fix side-to-side alignment. Coilover adjustment should always be done in pairs, e.g. both fronts at the same time, both rears at the same time and always adjusted exactly the same amount. The only exception would be if you're corner weighting the car. But that requires special equipment and isn't really necessary for a street cruiser. Google "how to corner weight a car" if you want to see/learn more. For manual adjustment, the process I was taught and follow is: With the suspension hanging (on a lift, on jack stands, etc.) loosen the adjuster until the spring is loose. Then tighten until the adjuster just touches and holds the spring from moving. Do the same on both sides, or all four if you're doing the whole car. Then drop the car to the ground. Roll back and forth a bit and bounce it up and down. All to settle the suspension. Then measure the ride height. Under the 4-inch frame tubes basically in line with the front and rear wheels. It will be too high at that point, but note the measurement. Now raise the car back up, and turn the adjusters on each side the
exact amount. One turn, two turns, whatever. Looser to lower the car, tighter to raise it. Now back down, roll and bounce, measure again. Note the change and you'll soon figure out how much you need to keep adjusting. But always the same on both sides. For a newer car with low miles, probably around 4-1/2 inches in the back and 4 inches in the front would be a good starting point. It will settle. But if you adjust, again always the same on both sides in the front, both sides in the rear. When done, you can do a sanity check and see where the adjustment sleeve is located on the shock on each side. They should be roughly the same. But if not, don't change anything. Setting ride height is a good learning experience, and it's not hard. But if you get it out of whack, your car could get squirrelly or worse.
3. There are ways to maybe lower the boost. But without knowing what the power steering setup is, can't give specific instructions.
4. Your TKO has nothing to do with the clutch "feel." That's strictly a function of the pedal box, clutch cable (assuming it's cable, not hydraulic), and clutch itself. Yes, these cars tend to have a bit of a heavy clutch compared to some daily drivers.
6. Front bolts come out easy enough. Rear bolts need to have the tank dropped if installed in the stock manner. Bumpers vs. quick jacks is a matter of taste, I realize. I personally prefer the look of the bumpers. Plus they're more functional. They will actually do something if not hit too hard. Quick jacks not so much. And you haven't lived until you've worked around/under the car and tangled with a quick jack with your head or some other body part. Leaves a mark. But to each his own.
Good luck and continue to have fun with it.