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Thread: Holley Sniper Fuel Pump Wiring

  1. #1
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    Holley Sniper Fuel Pump Wiring

    I asked the question here, but I didn't get an answer:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...inertia-switch

    So I'm trying to run the wiring for the fuel pump. I'm using the RF harness with the fuel pump in the tank. I want to keep the relay, fuse and inertia switch. So do I cut the jumper in the fuse panel as shown in the wiring manual and then connect the blue wire from the sniper to that wire that I cut?

    Thanks for the help, wiring is not my best area.

  2. #2
    Papa's Avatar
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    I read that you want to use the RF fuel pump relay, and that is certainly an option. Just understand that you will now have two relays in the fuel pump circuit. My approach leaves the RF circuit in tact and unused by simply tapping the Sniper fuel pump control wire to the fuel pump positive wire. You can put the inertia switch in line with either the positive or ground wires to the fuel pump. I believe you can wire as you describe, just be sure you connect the Sniper wire to the correct side of the RF relay. You are essentially using the Sniper control wire as the RF relay trigger.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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    Dave,

    Thanks. So you depinned the fuel pump + wire and replaced it with the blue sniper wire and then installed the inertia switch into that wiring as well. Doesn't that bypass the fuse? Is that a concern?

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    Papa's Avatar
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    The Sniper is fused on the main power (red) wire that goes to the battery and protected via a fused circuit from the RF harness for the 12v switched power. I'm writing this via my phone or I'd include a picture of page 16 of the Sniper's installation manual. I did as you described for the fuel pump connection on my car; depinned the fuel pump wire in the harness connector (main to rear) and added a single pin weatherpack connector to tie the Sniper's control wire to the RF fuel pump + wire. I still need to address the inertia switch, but will either connect it in line with the + side of the circuit or possibly relocate the switch to the trunk and tie it into the fuel pump ground or positive wires at the pump.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  6. #5
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Don't want to confuse the situation here but keep in mind the following
    - Holley supplies a harness with a relay for the fuel pump. This relay supplies a switched 12V for the fuel pump on a thick blue wire
    - the output from the Sniper that controls that relay is also a blue wire but smaller diameter. This signal wire direct from the Sniper controls the ground side of their fuel pump relay in their harness
    - so you can use either a low current ground output direct from the Sniper to control the RF relay or use a heavy current capable 12V to either power the RF relay or go direct to the pump

    So if you eliminate the relay in the Holley wire harness and want to use the Sniper signal to activate the fuel pump relay as part of the RF fuse panel, then it needs to go to the ground side of the relay coil (not that 12V side which is the brown wire that is referred to cutting in the manual)

    If you keep the Holley relay in the wire harness then you can use that relay's output (heavy blue wire) to activate the RF relay by cutting and connecting it to the brown wire as described in the manual OR you can run the heavy blue wire all the way back to the fuel pump directly (it's long enough) OR you can cut the heavy blue wire short and connect it to the tan fuel pump wire in the RF harness (this bypasses the RF relay).

    Inertia Switch: It's currently wired to the ground side of the RF fuel pump relay. If the switch is tripped, it's open and no ground is available. It seems it's intended for low currents so keep it on the control side of the relays not the high current that drives the pump. It can control either the ground or 12V side - in between either of those and the respective control connection on the relay. So in the case where the signal wire from the Sniper is used to control the RF relay, I replaced the ground connection that goes to the inertia switch with the Sniper control signal. That way you only have to cut/connect one side of the inertia switch differently. In the case where you use the Holley relay to drive the RF relay, you don't have to do a thing (the inertia switch is already controlling the ground to the RF relay). In the case where you drive the fuel pump direct with the Holley relay output, you have to figure out something else.

    Hope that helps
    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 07-11-2019 at 11:40 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

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    Steve,

    Yes that helps. Have to think some more on how I want to wire the fuel pump.

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    Papa's Avatar
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    If you decide to remove the Sniper relay and go with negative control, then you can tie the Sniper control wire to the ground side of the inertia switch and use the RF relay and wiring. This is how I wired my FAST EFI that I had before the Sniper. You have a lot of options.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 07-12-2019 at 08:23 AM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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