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Thread: 2015 coyote question

  1. #1
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    2015 coyote question

    Hello all new to the forum . Would like to ask for some help on 5.0
    Coyote swap. Im kind of old school so dont know a lot about
    newer coyote stuff. Purchased a complete motor and auto transmission with complete factory wiring harness dash cluster,brake pedal, steering column everything to run the motor. I have everything pluged in that can be pluged in. Also all the grounds coming out of the main harness are grounded back to battery. I have power to the under hood fuse box but none of the fuses are hot on the kick panel . The push start button is lit up ,shifter has power,but wont come out of park. Brake pedal connected and brake switch is made,still when you push button nothing happens. Have new batteries in fob and Pats has been turned off. Have power to starter. If anybody has any ideas i would appreciate it. Or maybe you could point me in the right direction. Thank you for looking. Joe

  2. #2
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    Neutral switch? Do you have to press brake pedal to start?
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  3. #3
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    A couple of questions: was this a crate motor or was it out of another vehicle? Do you have the documentation from Ford for the controls pack wiring? There are several integration points that are important that connect the controls pack harness to main power. On the manual transmission version, there are either one or two switches that connect to the clutch - I would guess that there would be a similar connection to the brake as Railroad indicated. If you don't have the controls pack wiring diagram, I'd ask Ford tech support for that first. Hope this helps.
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  4. #4
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Questions:
    "All grounds are connected to the battery" Is the battery grounded to the frame? Is the engine grounded to the frame?
    "None of the fuses hot on the kick panel" You haven't powered the kit supplied wiring harness? Is the fuel pump powered?
    "Push start is lit up... but won't come out of park" If everything was correct, you would be able to get it out of park.... Even if the engine was not running. Is the push button wired to the Ford wiring or kit wiring (which has no power)?
    "Pats turned off" How do you know? Purchased that way... who did it? Do you have the original car key? Did you know that the original key does NOT have to be the key in the ignition, starting the car? It has to be "near" by, within a few feet of the car.

    "Have power to the starter" Do you mean the large red wire from the battery? Is the BLUE wire connected to the starter? From the kit wiring harness.... That's NOT powered.

    You need three things for the coyote to run. You need fuel, a wake-up call (Coyote PC), and a start signal.
    Is you Kit "Ignition Relay" connected per instructions? Is Ignition relay trigger wire (light green wire) connected to the orange coil wire? (Power coyote PC start circuit when key is on)
    Is you fuel pump powered? Note engine still would crank over (for a very short time) without fuel.
    Blue kit wire connected to starter?

    OK, you need four. Kit wiring harness MUST be powered.

    Hope this helps
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 07-22-2019 at 11:01 AM.
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  5. #5
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    Ducky,
    Not sure but I read the original post as someone who was swapping it into a different car, not building an FFR, but who knows.
    2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.

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    Thanks for all the replies to my problem. This is a complete engine trans master kit from a salvage company. The PATS was turned off so i was told.It came with all the stock ford wiring harness fuel tank ,steering column, drive by wire pedal and brake pedal ,brake booster push button start ,elect powersteering rack,radiator and fans ,dash cluster .You ask the guestion abiut tbe grounds all grounds coming out of the factory harness are grounded back to th battery . I do not have the battery grounded to the frame but i will do that. The brake pedal is laying on the floor so the pedal is down like you would be pressing on it ,and it does have power to it and is working. The dash cluster has never lit up at all.
    Fuses locations 60,62,64,66,68in out side fuse box are dead. They did get hot one time today for just a minute but pushed button and still nothing. They went dead and i didn't get them back on. I pulled the starter relay and used a jumper wire in the fuse box and the motor cranked over. The yellow and violet wire from PCM did get hot when the fuses i was talking about came on.But when fues went dead so did yel/vlt wire. Im starting to think i should have stayed with a 351 w o r 351 c but to late now. I may have to buy a engine harness kit ,but would like to try this first. If you have any ideas i would appea

  7. #7
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    The guys at SVT/ Ford Tech are pretty sharp. I would not hesitate to call them. They may have solved this problem more than once.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  8. #8
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    Ducky,
    Not sure but I read the original post as someone who was swapping it into a different car, not building an FFR, but who knows.
    Good point. Didn't catch that.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
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  9. #9
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    If this isn't a FF car, the suggested wiring I listed will do you no good.

    You need a wiring diagram for the car the engine came from and wiring diagram for the car you're installing the engine into. You need to figure out what wires in the coyote harness need to be hot when the ignition is on. One for sure, possible more. Need a common hot wire, connecting old and new systems together. Need to add ground wires, battery to frame and frame to engine. You alternator is also going to be an issue. The 2015 coyote uses a one wire setup. Your car, if older, has multi wires, but can be made to work. You need an electric fuel pump with the following capacity: 155L/HR (60 GPH) MINIMUM AT 55PSI. The engine works better with a fuel line regulator and a return fuel line to the tank.

    Did you get the ignition switch? If so, it won't be hard to find the needed hot wire.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the fuel pump info that will come in handy. I have a wiring diagram for the 2015 mustang it came out of. The car its going in is a ground up resto it has no wiring at all in it. The coyote i purchased was dressed alt ,ac everything. The engine came still bolted to the trans,with starter . All the wires were still on the engine starter wiring ,alt wiring. I got the whole car harness just plug everthing in and start up. But its not working quite like that. I will go back and do all the grounds like you said and go from there. I am talking with the guy i purchased it from to be shure i got all the wiring. Hope im not missing some little sub harness or something. Will let you know if redoing grounds help. Thanks 52 joe

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