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Thread: HELP! steering issues

  1. #1
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    HELP! steering issues

    I have some binding at one of the joints. I have the front removed from electric steering forward so not there. I think I have it narrowed down to the joint at rear of electric steering going up to firewall. When I remove that joint all moves free. When I put it back on it has hard spots every 180 degree of rotation. All the shafts are in from flush about 1/16 to 1/8. When I turn the wheel and watch the knuckles are close to touching but nothing is rubbing or hitting inside the joint. Ive talked to FFR a couple of times but we are at a loss. Is this just normal when having angles this sharp? Or do I have something cobbled up. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

    rear of elect steering.jpg

  2. #2
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    So some more info. I took out the electric steering and mounted the flange bearing like I was going to run manual steering and its smooth as silk! When I turn the electric steering by itself it has drag to it but its consistent. Not every 180 degree like it was when assembled. I'm at a loss. I guess I'll just put it all back together and see how it acts with power to it?

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    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
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    i seem to remember that mine had a little drag, but once the electric PS motor was enabled it was fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bnelson View Post
    I have some binding at one of the joints. I have the front removed from electric steering forward so not there. I think I have it narrowed down to the joint at rear of electric steering going up to firewall. When I remove that joint all moves free. When I put it back on it has hard spots every 180 degree of rotation. All the shafts are in from flush about 1/16 to 1/8. When I turn the wheel and watch the knuckles are close to touching but nothing is rubbing or hitting inside the joint. Ive talked to FFR a couple of times but we are at a loss. Is this just normal when having angles this sharp? Or do I have something cobbled up. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

    rear of elect steering.jpg
    Just an FYI for anyone having this issue. Ive been fighting this for months. Talked with Factory five again last week and Dave B said they have a couple of us with this issue and said that putting in a shaft with 90 degree offset would correct. they sent me new shaft but sent wrong one. Was just a straight shaft. New one coming. So out of curiosity I took the straight one and cut in two and welded back together at 90 degree. Hard spots went completely away! Not sure how just a couple of us are experiencing this as they should all be the same? Bugging the heck out of me but fixed now!

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    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
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    I'm not following the 90 degree offset thing. Could you explain a little more?
    thx

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    Quote Originally Posted by DamnYankee View Post
    I'm not following the 90 degree offset thing. Could you explain a little more?
    thx
    The 3/4" DD shaft from the firewall to the electric steering box. Still waiting on the one from FFR but wanted to test the theory. Cut that shaft in two and welded back together with the flats at 90 degree to each other which puts the u joints at 90 degree to each other. Smoothed it right out. No hard spots whatsoever. Of course I'm nut gonna trust the one I welded but the one from FFR is built with that 90 degree twist in into it.

    11-19-2019 1.jpg

  7. #7
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    Do not know if this relates, but MkIV with hydro power steering, shaft not connected to rack, hard spots in turning. I had to raise the pillow bearing with 3 flat washers. No more hard spots.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  8. #8
    Senior Member DamnYankee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bnelson View Post
    The 3/4" DD shaft from the firewall to the electric steering box. Still waiting on the one from FFR but wanted to test the theory. Cut that shaft in two and welded back together with the flats at 90 degree to each other which puts the u joints at 90 degree to each other. Smoothed it right out. No hard spots whatsoever. Of course I'm nut gonna trust the one I welded but the one from FFR is built with that 90 degree twist in into it.

    11-19-2019 1.jpg
    Good explanation. Thanks!

  9. #9
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    I asked FFR for the updated shaft and they sent me one free of charge. Here’s a pic.B0F550B7-20C7-4D54-AB75-BF92293E598A.jpg
    FFR Hot Rod Truck #79
    Gen III Coyote with 6R80 A/T

  10. #10
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    I have that issue as well, mine doesn't feel serious, but annoying because it doesn't seem correct

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIRGIN MIKE View Post
    I have that issue as well, mine doesn't feel serious, but annoying because it doesn't seem correct
    Talk to Dave B at FFR and have them send you the 90 degree shaft. Cleared mine right up.

  12. #12
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    New 90 degree shaft fixed my issue

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIRGIN MIKE View Post
    New 90 degree shaft fixed my issue
    Its a beautiful thing Amazing how something so simple makes such a huge difference in operation.

  14. #14
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    Makes perfect sense. Sounds like originally the opposing joints "fell in to the saddle" at the same time, causing it to lock. Clocking them to be at opposite rotation makes them seamless at 360 degrees.

  15. #15
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    Excessive angles on a u-joint will cause the sensation you are experiencing. In the commercial truck industry, we "phase" driveshafts to correct this phenomenon. If you've ever taken that small universal joint for your ratchet set and angled it a little too far, you know it locks up and won't turn. What you are feeling in your steering shafts is the same thing. The 90 degree shaft is effectively reducing that breakover force by misaliging the u-joints so the resistance to rotation doesn't feel so great. We do it to reduce torsional vibrations at high speed, but in this case it's how the folks at FFR have addressed the impact of high angles on the steering shaft. All of these theories apply to your driveshaft as well. Make sure those pinion angles are correct, or that buzzing you feel will lead to premature failure of driveshaft components.

    Scott
    Built FFR9457. 351 Windsor, TKO600, 3.73. Fitech EFI. Russ Thompson throttle pedal, turn signal, and trunk pan. Carbon Fiber dash with Speedhut Revolution gauges. Paint by Jeff Kleiner.

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