Even with the ignition off something is killing my battery , takes about 2 or 3 days . Not sure how to check or even what to check?
any thoughts would be great, Thanks herb
I Think its solved , well know in a few days, Thanks ,Herb
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Even with the ignition off something is killing my battery , takes about 2 or 3 days . Not sure how to check or even what to check?
any thoughts would be great, Thanks herb
I Think its solved , well know in a few days, Thanks ,Herb
Last edited by herb fraser; 08-09-2019 at 04:57 PM.
Herb,
I would put a current meter between the negative battery post and the cable. Then pull 1 fuse at a time to figure out which circuit is causing the drain. Then you troubleshoot that circuit.
Henry
Last edited by herb fraser; 07-28-2019 at 07:55 AM.
Herb,
Typically a current meter interrupts the negative side of the battery. This means you disconnect the negative terminal and put the meter between the negative post and the negative cable you just took off. Make sense?
Henry
What Henry said. I'd start with the circuits that are in the "always hot" batt fed portion of the fuse panel. On my build, the brake switch wiring was reversed at the brake light switch, so power was being supplied to the brake lights all the time. Maybe check that first. I didn't realize it until I attached the bulbs. After moving to the other connections on the switch, all was good.
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Last edited by RJD; 07-28-2019 at 10:21 AM.
MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.
Thanks guys will work on it later today
Well I went ahead and disconnected the negative side of the battery and put a meter in line. Then I pulled one fuse at a time, after I pulled all the fuses one at a time I still had the short. So I have to think that it has to be a line that has power all the time ? but wont that still have a fuse in line ? Any thought would be very helpful
Thanks Herb
Did the meter move any when pulling fuses? You may have one with a small drain and a fuse for clock etc. that would have a small drain, so pulling one then putting it back to pull the next will keep curent flowing through the meter although through several fuses!
Mk3.1 347 AFR 205cc Heads A9L EFI siemens deca 60lb injectors MSD 6AL ignition Vortech V-3 3 Link PS/PB
-- If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem ! —
Herb
When you initially put the meter in series with the battery, what was the current that you measured?
You may know this but, from a setup viewpoint, the multimeter needs to be set for current measurement (not resistance or voltage), black lead to the chassis and red lead to the negative post of the battery (with the normal negative side of the battery cable/braid disconnected).
Steve
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
Herb, lets assume you have .01 amps through a fuse for the clock then .01 amps through a different fuse for a radio then .01 amps through a different fuse that is the trouble you are trying to find! Each time you pull one of those fuses, you will only remove 1/3 of the current through the meter. It will constantly show a current draw because of the other two. You need watch closely what the meter is doing or pull them all, see if you are at zero then add back and find what circuit is drawing current. Then you can trace that wire to see what it is powering.
Also, if you want, pull a fuse and replace it with the meter leads, this will check Anything going to that fuse, ahh you say the meter will not fit and touch the wires where the fuse goes, use a blown fuse and touch the contacts on the top of it. See, you knew there was a reason to keep that blown fuse!!!
Mk3.1 347 AFR 205cc Heads A9L EFI siemens deca 60lb injectors MSD 6AL ignition Vortech V-3 3 Link PS/PB
-- If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem ! —
Ff33rod, if i remember my high school electronics correctly, the wires should be reversed, negative to the bat??
Although, if you have a digital meter, it should read either way.
Mk3.1 347 AFR 205cc Heads A9L EFI siemens deca 60lb injectors MSD 6AL ignition Vortech V-3 3 Link PS/PB
-- If you can’t fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem ! —
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
Thanks guys ! LOTS to do today to try this, will keep you posted and again thanks for the help, Herb
Herb an old school method is disconnect the negative cable and install a 12 volt bulb test light inline to the - post of the battery and the cable you removed. If you have a draw the light will glow or light up. Pull fuses till the light goes out. That is the drain source. We used this before digital stuff and it works 98% of the time.
Herb, do you have the electric power steering. In testing mine today I discovered it works with the key turned off. Is that normal. I do have the red power wire run directly back to the battery, as instructed in the manual..
Could the power steering have some current draw with key off?
Good luck.
Ralph