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Wiper motor issue
I have a new FFR Wiper kit.
The motor works however when i install the wipers they will not turn the wiper arms!?
if you hold the exterior wiper nob when it is turned on you can feel trying to turn but is "slipping" on the inside of the mechanism.
Anybody else experience this?
It is as if it is stripped on the inside somewhere?
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Did you grease the cable gear? Do the gears work without the blades? Try placing a paper towel between the blades and the glass to reduce friction.
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Originally Posted by
Papa
Did you grease the cable gear? Do the gears work without the blades? Try placing a paper towel between the blades and the glass to reduce friction.
the gears work without the blades. but when you install the blades with paper towel under them the gears slip inside the motor.
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I just installed my wipers. I used 5/16 “ brake line for the tubes as they were easier to flare. Take each housing cover off and see if the cable engages the drive wheels sufficiently. The manual says you can slightly bend the housing to ensure proper alignment and engagement. There is also a tab you can bend to align the drive wheel. Did you bend the tubes smoothly enough and ensure the cable slides through each tube freely? I had to reorient my motor to provide a smoother initial angle to the first wiper. Hope this helps.
MKIV #8740, Canadian base kit, Picked up Dec. 2015, ‘98 Cobra 4.6 l DOHC, T45 transmission, old style IRS, Art Cuesta dieted harness/Ron Francis chassis harness, go-cart July 2018.
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If gears are slipping inside the motor, I'd contact FFR. If the cable is slipping in the gear boxes at the wipers, it could be several possible issues.
1. Gear box not properly installed
2. No lubrication
3. Ridgid tubing not installed properly
- flares not seated in the gear box
- tubing bends too tight
- loose end tubing too short
Last edited by Papa; 07-28-2019 at 01:37 PM.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
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Senior Member
The "not enough engagement at the wheel box" problem Joecobr describes used to be pretty common. As Joe says, there is some bending on the wheel box that will help the coil engage the gears. The other solution folks have found is to buy the ********** wheel boxes. However, I believe F5 changed wheel box vendors so that kits delivered after 2016 or so have identical wheel boxes to what is available at **********.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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David aka Ducky2009
I originally had wiper issues. They moved on one direction, but not back down. I cut a couple 1" pieces of brake line (used brake line, the supplied tubing was so hard you couldn't flare the ends) and inserted into both sides of the wheel box and tightened the screws. The gear inside was NOT in the center. I ended up reforming the ends where they clamp on the tubes, centering the gear.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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thanks fellas. im going to pull the system and bench test/build it.
Pain in the ***....
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Senior Member
Not going to help tcsracing1 but just a thought. I would find out if your state requires wipers to pass inspection. NC does not for these cars so I never bought them. Some states will be OK with the clamp on ones to get through inspection with.
As for occasionally getting caught in rain RainX inside & out works pretty well. Yes inside as it will also get wet. Cockpit stays dry in most light to medium rain if you can keep moving. Sucks when you have to stop for a light.